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Pilgrim
03-31-2006, 10:37 PM
I started having grouping problems with the double rifle a few weeks ago. After a few trips to the range with the rifle grouping rights and lefts into about an inch at 100 yds. (outstanding DR accuracy!), all of a sudden it starts "crossing" with the left barrel printing about 9" to the right of the right barrel. That's a no-no and usually indicates the velocity of the load is too fast. Well....it was the same load that grouped before, and the same load for which the rifle had been regulated. As near as I could recall everything else was the same (NOT). Three weeks of fooling around with loads, powders, bullets, method of holding the rifle & bench techniques (both very important with DRs - far more than with any other type rifle), I finally decided to go back to "zero". I took the scope off of the rifle, took a leather cartridge holder off of the buttstock, and shot the rifle with open sights and the same commercial ammo. It appeared to be shooting properly. So I put the scope back on, it still shot accurately with no crossing. It turns out that the accuracy problem was the leather cheek piece/cartridge holder I had added to the buttstock! That piece of leather can't weigh more than 4 oz. and caused a bullet spread of roughly 9" at 100 yds. Amazing. I had heard of such a small change causing enormous accuracy differences with DRs, but I really didn't believe it. Especially after having the buttstock cut off and a recoil pad put on, and then adding scope rings and a scope. I saw it with my own eyes, and it was my own rifle, with me behind the buttstock, and I'm not sure I believe it yet. But the leather cheek piece will stay off of that rifle for damn sure.

My Kimber .45 ACP Compact had been shooting OK, but accuracy was only so-so. Maybe 2" or so at 25 yards benchrest, no matter what handload I tried. One 225 gr. commercial cast bullet caused the groups to open up to 4" or so, but all of the 200 gr. SWC and 230 gr. RNFP CBs plunked into 2" to 2.5". I was also having intermittent feeding problems. OK accuracy wise , I guess, but not what I expected from the Kimber. The reliability issue was and is unacceptable. To add insult to injury, it also didn't shoot to point of aim (fixed 3-dot tritium sights) at 25 yards. It was about 2" low and 2" left. I tried seating the bullets out/in, roll crimp vs. taper crimp, different bullets, different powders, different primers, etc. Nothing seemed to change the accuracy or POI. The problem I was having seating bullets out was bugging me in particular as the chamber should have accepted the rounds, but wouldn't. Well, I finally figured out that the taper crimp die really wasn't crimping the case. The die was leaving a slight bell that couldn't be seen or felt. I guess the chamber must have a slight taper from base to case mouth, and the case "bell" that was remaining after bullet seating wouldn't let the cases chamber properly. I had to push the case quite a bit farther into the crimp die than I had expected to get the "bell" completely removed. Problem solved and the groups tightened up to ~1" to 1 1/2" with both 200 and 230 gr CBs. So far the feeding problem appears to bgone as well. Even better, the point of impact moved to point of aim with both loads (200 SWC @ 910 fps & 230 RNFP @ 860 fps) with the same powders and amount of powder as before. That was the first time I had seen point of impact shift that much with just OAL length change. Velocity didn't change at all per my chronograph.

Last Sat. at our monthly BR match, I shot like crap. The 100 yard scores were about my average, but how I got those wasn't (2 really bad targets out of 5 total). The 200 yard scores were beyond bad. Worse, the "bad" shots were way bad and beyond anything I would expect from parallax, or bad technique. Usually I can call them, or the impact is PDQ to where I expected it to be, but not in some cases Sat. I was using a new barrel, new scope, and new cases. All three had checked out at the home range, but something was really wrong last Sat. I even swapped scopes mid match and resighted in etc. It wasn't the scope. I noted that a few cases chambered harder than the rest (half dozen or so out of 150 cases used). It could only have been case neck wall thickness, but that didn't make any sense as I don't change the setting on the neck reamer, and 140 or so other cases were OK out of the new batch, and the old cases were OK with the same neck reamer setting. What gives? I came home and checked all 150 cases, and sure enough there were some dozen or so that were either thicker than I wanted or were "off standard" with respect to the other cases. I recut about 75 of the cases to remove all of the neck variations I could, but how did it happen in the first place? I usually target .001 or so neck clearance. What I think happened was some of the cases were prepped when the weather was really cold (freezing) vs. 40's and 50's when the other cases were prepped. My shop is unheated. The mandrel over which the case necks are turned must have been .0005" to .001" or so smaller in diameter due to the temperature, which resulted in cases that were .005 to .001" thicker in the neck that the other cases. I went back to the local range yesterday to check the cases after reworking them and all seems OK, but...time will tell. Next match is about a month away. Any cases that "throw" a shot will simply be thrown away after the next match unless I know why the shot went astray.

Other stuff like the above also happened with revolvers during the past few weeks, but you get the idea. All new stuff for me, and two of 'em in particular are outside of my experience (DR and case neck differences) and outside the experience of others with whom I discussed the problems. Oh well, we just keep learning...FWIW, Pilgrim

Dale53
04-01-2006, 12:44 AM
When I was a youngster, I knew it all. Yep, I had it ALL figured out. The older I get, and I have been accused of being "older than dirt", the more I realize that there is a whole LOT I don't know. In fact, on occasion, I realize that I don't know much at all[smilie=1:.

As they say, "Welcome to the club!"

Dale53

Blackwater
04-01-2006, 01:00 AM
+1 on Dale's comments.

As to feeding problems in the ACP, I've noted in a number of guns that the longer nosed SWC's, and also with the 230 gr. Lee TCFN's, that OAL can be critical to feeding. I shot tons of the Lee 190 SWC's way back when, and that short nose seemed to feed in most every ACP I could find.

One other tip - once I found the right setting for the seater/crimp die, I locked it down and never adjusted the crimp setting/main die body. All I'd do thereafter is adjust the seater plug for whatever bullet I was shooting.

Once I found the right OAL for a given bullet, I'd record it and it was very simple thereafter to refer to my notes when changing bullets, and set the OAL for reliable functioning with my caliper. This simplified things, and made the loads consistently reliable thereafter.

BTW, don't you just love that Kimber Compact? Mine's the Lwt. stainless, and I'll never carry a light 5-shot .38 ever again. That thing carries and packs as good as ANY revolver ever made. My holster's an Andrews McDaniel, I believe is the name, and it's amazing how comfortable an IWB holster can be, when it's set up right - and the Andrews IS set up right. Easy to get to, decently quick, and as comfortable as carrying a handgun concealed is destined ever to be. Mine's got the thumb snap, and I got it from Mr. Andrews at a gun show. Dang fine fella', and it was very evident that he puts a LOT of thought into his holsters, and into satisfying his customers. I've got a new to me M-19 that's getting e-nickled and round butted, and I think I'll be getting another of his holsters. His attention to detail and carrying comfort are unexcelled. FWIW.

Pilgrim
04-01-2006, 12:36 PM
Dale - I'm not older than dirt, but it's close (60's). I've been loading for just short of 40 years and casting for almost 35 of those. That .45 is as persnickedy as any handgun I've ever fooled around with re: sizing, OAL and feeding. BTW - I gave up on my S&W M-631, and traded it for a single six + cash. I couldn't get the accuracy out of the S&W I wanted (about 1.5" @ 25 yds). About 2.5" at 25 yards was as good as I could get IIRC. I wanted the 631 as a backpack/carry gun when roaming in the hills. Consistent 1.5" @ 25 yards will do nicely on grouse, rabbits, etc. Larger groups/less accuracy starts to get iffy in my experience. That .32 H&R has got to be about as good a game gun as you can find, plus if pushed, that 118 gr. 311008 @ 1100 fps (or more) will double nicely for a "critter killer". Not a stopper for sure, but a definite killer. The double rifle has been a bit of an education as well. Finding a load for it is amazingly simple. It either shoots where it points, or the velocity is too high or too low, and the rifle will tell you that.

Blackwater - I'm currently using an Uncle Mike's holster that has a thumbsnap and a "pouch" with snap on the outside of the holster for an extra magazine. It is easy to set up so that you can carry the pistol in a cocked and locked condition with the thumbsnap under the hammer for some extra protection. I've never tried to see how fast I could get the gun out, but however fast it is, it is. I carry that pistol under my coat when wandering the boonies without a large bore rifle or if I'm carrying a shotgun. If I have a large bore, I carry a single six (.32 H&R) or a bearcat (.22 LR) in a cross draw, also under my coat (if wearing one). I'll look into those McDaniel holsters. Lately, I've been building my own holsters. Hand stitching is slow, but I'm "semi-retarded", so who cares how slow it is?

Pilgrim

Dale53
04-01-2006, 02:00 PM
My carry gun for "serious" is a Kimber Ultra CDP II:
http://www.kimberamerica.com/pistols/cdp/ultracdp.php

It is a fairly new acquisition, so I don't have enough rounds through it to proclaim it "good to go" (I want at least 500 rounds through an auto before it can be absolutely relied upon) but it sure looks like it will fill the bill. It also shoots far better than I expected with that little 3" barrel. I have long relied upon the #68 H&G cast bullet for serious work. You can get nearly 1000 fps safely and it should do the job at that speed and weight (200 gr semi wadcutter).

The new S&W Airweight will be for those days I need to "go light".

You mention something very important. Record what works for you and then you can easily repeat your success. You won't be trying to reinvent the wheel or playing "catch up".

Pilgrim:
Regarding stitching leather:
An old leatherworker gave me a tip when working with thick and stiff leather:
use a drill press with a drill just smaller than the waxed heavy thread that is normal for holster use and pre-drill the two pieces of leather before you try to sew together. It offers a couple of advantages as opposed to the traditional way of using a regular leather awl - it guarntees that the holes will be in line with each other and will reduce the effort reqiored a great deal. The trick is not to use too large a drill. For maximum strength and looks, you still use the awl to slightly enlarge the holes before you run the needle through the leather. I glue the two pieces together (just use rubber cement) and that makes it easy to drill and the holes are square with the leather.

Dale53

StarMetal
04-01-2006, 02:03 PM
Whatever happen to making dummy rounds up with each the different bullets you use and using those to set you dies instead of some recording? Fail proof as far as I'm concerned...kinda like a headspace gauge.

Joe

Pepe Ray
04-01-2006, 09:06 PM
Not older than dirt, just dust. :roll:
Consideration for Pilgrim.
Another variable that you didn't mention considering, Re; DR crossing. By adding the butt cuff you added a layer to the cheek area of the stock. This positions the eye differently, lo parallex. Maybe? Pepe Ray

Pilgrim
04-01-2006, 09:15 PM
Actually, the leather pad was to raise my cheek to better align my eye with the scope. No parallax problem noted, and I'm truly sensitive to that being a BR shooter. I don't think it was the problem as it caused a 9 ro 10 inch POI change! Truly amazing. Parallax can cause up to 2" or so if it's really really bad. I'm not sure I believe teh pad did it yet, and as noted I was there, shot the rifle, and saw the impact shift. I went back out to the shop a couple of hours ago and looked at that doggone leather pad again. I'd better throw it away before I stick it back on the rifle! Pilgrim

shooter575
04-01-2006, 10:12 PM
I also drill my holes for stivhing leather.I use a star wheel to lay out hole spacing then used a dremel tool with a drill bit.In a pinch I have also used a wire nail or brad with the head cliped off.The drill bits sure do get dull quick though going that fast. I sometimes just let the leather run wild then cut and finnish after stiching.Grease up your gun and dunk the holster in real hot H2o and jam er in for a moulded fit.

26Charlie
04-01-2006, 10:34 PM
Pilgrim - interesting about the neck thickness problem due to temperature.
I read Harvey Donaldson's book, & he started with 120 or so new cases to make up 100 .219 Donaldson Wasp match cases. He shot them to fireform, and shot for group, and if a case let a flier go he put it into his "fouling shot" box.
Since I moved many of my books are still boxed up and I cannot lay hands on that one just now, but he was of the opinion that with accurately weighed powder and bullets, the main cause of fliers was the case - so he discarded any case which shot a flier.
I would like to look up what he said about trimming and turning necks, flash holes, etc. if anything. I'll have to do some more unpacking.

felix
04-02-2006, 01:08 AM
I think ol' Harvey finally decided to use one and only one case for a match. He got so discusted in finding a series of cases that would group, so he gave up for the important meetings. Cases CAN be made better today, but the rule of thumb is to throw out the case that does not shoot into the group. Too much foolishness for this old fart anymore. ... felix

Bret4207
04-02-2006, 08:10 AM
First problem with me for the "discard cases" idea would be figuring out if it was the case or the guy pulling the trigger! God bless you guys who can really concentrate.

Blackwater
04-03-2006, 11:49 PM
Star Metal, excellent suggestion, and in fact, I do have sample dummies loaded just for setting my seater die. In case they get lost, I have the recorded info as a backup. I don't tend to lose my notebooks like I can the samples.

When starting out with a new bullet, I'll also set my die (using the RN punch, even for a SWC or TC type bullet) using a factory 230 gr. FMCRN, then seat the new bullet with that setting. I'll try that as the initial test for functioning, and it's usually OK, and even if not, it's alwasy been dang close, with a modicum of shortening of the OAL seeming to always bring good feading with any decent bullet. Since I carry my reloads for "general use," that sometimes includes wearing it when there's a possibility of a 2 or 4 legged varmint needing to be dealt with, so I make SURE all my loads function before depending on them for anything other than pure practice. I've never thought much of the "it'll do just for the range" type of reloading. If I'm going to take the time and effort to reload, I want those loads to be good to go, for whatever needs to be dealt with. After all, practice is a LOT more fun AND productive if the loads are accurate and function perfectly. I've known some who'd load "practice ammo" very casually, and then acted surprised when they had functioning or accuracy problems. I've even known one who traded off the gun because it "wasn't accurate and wasn't dependable" because of his casual approach to loading "practice ammo." The guy who bought it after he traded it in had zero problems with accuracy and functioning. It was just the first fella's lacadasical attitude toward his ammo that erroneously led him to believe the problem was with the gun, instead of at his reloading bench. At least I TRIED to tell him this, but ... well, you know how it goes.

BTW, I also almost always use my RN nose punch in my seater die, since it seems to maybe (??) let LSWC's noses slide on the rounded part and sorta' self center, aided by the lube, as the bullet is seated into the case. Don't know if anyone else does this, or even if it's really generally effective, but I did once note that it SEEMED to work. That was quite a while back, and I've always since polished out the seater plug so the SWC's can slide into alignment as seated. Dang! That was over 30 years ago now!

Has anyone else noted this, or do as I do???? Just wondering.