coupla' questions about rock locks

[Jim]

I've never held one, nevermind fired one, nevermind owned one!

Lyman makes a .54 left handed Plains rifle in flint lock. Is this rifle available as a kit in left hand? I don't see it on their site.

How much do good flints cost and where do you get them?

Can you prime and load the main charge with the same grade powder?

There's a longrifle club up this way and I b'lieve I could get one of these ol' boys to show me a thing or two if I bought one.

Thanks, fellas,
Jim

[Freebore]

The key to a good flintlock is a good quality lock, and real black powder. The Lyman lock is probably fairly good and with a good flint it should be pretty reliable. The priming charge is a finer grade black powder, usually 4f, for faster burn time getting to the main charge which is normally 3f or 2f, depending on the bore size. Get with some of those shooters at your local club that you mentioned. I am sure that they would be happy to show you more.

[docone31]

I do not believe they make a kit in flint for a lefty.
All you would have to do, is strip the blueing and brown it. I have also stripped the stock and laid down many coats of oil finish. Looks much better.
If you do that, watch when inletting and fineing the inletting. Metal that is drawn into the wood by finish sanding, will stain the wood. It really shows up when oil is put down.
I have fired flints, but never owned one. I have trouble with the delay. Shows my weakness in firing. I would go with BP on a flinter, and ffff for the pan, and ff for the load.
You might just enjoy it. Caps are hard to find here, and flint is not hard to order. There is good flint, and so-so flint. That is as much as I know on flinters.
I will stick with my caplock. I am used to it. I can see a Tap-O-Cap in my future.

[richbug]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?u=10183

Rich makes good flints, about $1 each

You can use the same powder in both the pan and the main charge. Most say not to, I find in damp weather, 2F in the pan stays usable longer. If I couldn't get 4F, I wouldn't be too concerned myself.

[peter nap]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?u=10183

Rich makes good flints, about $1 each

You can use the same powder in both the pan and the main charge. Most say not to, I find in damp weather, 2F in the pan stays usable longer. If I couldn't get 4F, I wouldn't be too concerned myself.

Exactly right! use the same powder you use in the main charge. The old timers did and I have for 20 years or so. At one time I ground FF for the pan until I got lazy. I found no ignition difference.

I've built a bunch of flinters and usually made all the parts but the cock and frizzen. I used Chambers for that.

If memory serves me, they use L&M Locks. They aren't top notch but aren't bad either. All in all, it is a darn nice rifle for the money.
You get what you pay for (Hopefully) but don't get sucked into the "Have to have a high price gun" crowd.

[waksupi]

I do notice I repair a lot more cheap flint locks for people, than quality locks.

[mooman76]

You can compromse and use light charges of 3f in the gun and lock. You also might check Dixiegunworks. They have all kind of kits, might find one you like in LH.

[jim4065]

If I was a lefty, I'd have made a run at this smoothbore: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=136187611

With deeper pockets - this rifle looks nice: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=136176765

Bet this is a lot of rifle for the money: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=136713298

I'd be careful with these darn things - bought two in the last month and I'm bidding on another. Way too much fun. :mrgreen:

[Jim]

Thanks, fellas. All good info.

[hamour]

Jim I find that 4f in the prime is better than 3f or 2f. It seems faster to me, so I use it. 3f prime is ok, 2f is slow but workable.

Some people screen the 3f and 2f, then use the fines from this for their pans.

Here is a link to muzzleloading forum, it has all the info you could ever want about flintlocks.

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/fusionbb.php

Flintlocks are fun!

[northmn]

A couple of points. When carried hunting 4f can dribble out of the pan unless the pan is cleaned off very well where the pan meets frizzen or if the fit is poor. Then use 3f for priming. You can always switch when you get to stand. Depending on the lock sytem 4f is better in the smaller finer rifle and pistol locks, maybe little difference in the medium locks and did not seem to matter in the bigger musket locks. My Bess liked 2f. The Bess was originally loaded out of cartridge and primed by main charge. It may have been self priming, but the system called for biting off the paper, priming and loading (not very safe but that was their concern back then). Locks and rifles are individuals. Rich Pierce makes good flints. The Lyman is a good starter rifle but flintlocks are their own world and I really do not like any production flintlocks as compared to percussion.

Northmn

[frontier gander]

www.trackofthewolf.com they make the great plains in lefty

[waksupi]

I notice a definite difference it I use a courser granulation than 4f in my pans.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

I've always used "crush down" from Goex 2 or 3 f. Crushing gets the graphite glazing on the powder broken down and I believe it lights off "faster than a speeding locomotive". BvT

[northmn]

Some used to recommend putting small amounts of powder in a pan and crusing it down to get priming powder. They also stated that you wanted to use non static building equipment, like a wood dish and stick to do so. I ahve never seen 4f slower than any of the other powders for priming.

Northmn