mold mod?

[XWrench3]

i just had a thought, about a way to TEMPORARILY modify my 30 caliber rifle mold. it is a rather pointy mold, which works fine in everything but my 30-30. and they work ok there as well, but i have to load them singly. anyway, what i was thinking of was to use a peice of aluminum, and make a peice to fit in the bottom of the mold, so it would form a flat nose. at first i thought of just using a end of a bullet, with a peice of something like tin foil over it. but it only took a few seconds to realize that it wouldnt be long before the "plug" was melted out of it. anyway, do you think this would work? i do not think that the fit anywhere would be critical except right at the end of the aluminum "plug" where the hot lead comes into contact. i know it will be kind of a pain, having to continuously re install the plug. but it shouldnt take all that long, and it will save me the cost of another mold, for a caliber that i do not really shoot enough to justify a seperate mold for.

[C1PNR]

Hmmm, is this a single cavity? I'd say go ahead and try it and let us know how it works.

Personally, I'd probably keep my eyes open for a 311041, or some such, to deal with this issue. Maybe even a group buy so you get more than one with each pour.

[RayinNH]

It would probably work okay if you could turn the nose plug on a lathe. I think it would be a nuisance to do though. I think an easier way would be to take a piece of metal and drill a 5/16 hole in it up to the depth of the desired boolit and pass a file over it to take away the point. I'm guessing you just want a few for hunting purposes otherwise just load them singly at the bench when target shooting...Ray

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Hi, Yes it will work. I have done it with a couple of molds to get rid of noses and make full wadcutters. But it is something that has to be done carefully as mentioned previously, on a lathe or a drill press. I was able to do it on a woodlathe using aluminum rod of adequate diameter. You have to go slowly with a file and make provision for cutting off the plug after making sure it is the right fit in the nose section. The problem if you are not using a metal lathe is one of control and you are not using a cutter which makes the exactness a challenge. Another problem is the size of the plug; it is small in a 30 cal and will, again in the absence of a metal lathe set of controls, make the project an exercise in getting crosseyed. I did it with a couple of large caliber fat pistol bullet molds that as I mentioned went into wadcutter shape. A flat or square/blunt shape is the worst aerodynamically for any bullet and probably moreso for a rifle. You are correct that the face of the plug where it contacts the lead...has to be either flush-flat or have a uniform round/blunt shape, for if it is uneven in any way then the aerodynamic airflow will be off and inaccuracy will result. The concept is good and can work, but if you only need a few for hunting then Ray-in-NH has made a very good recommendation with the metal jig to hold the bullet and form/file the points off. It is not difficult to pick up the aluminum nose plug with a tweezers and put it in the open mold; it isn't a fast process but it works. Of course you want to be careful not to burn yourself so use a set of tweezers with a long nose. You could have someone with a lathe do the thing for you , but at that point you would have to compare the cost against finding/getting a mold used or new for a shape such as Lyman 311041. I have succesfully used Lyman 311291, a roundnose in my 94's for 30 years and although I have never put more than 3-4 rounds in the tubular mag, I have yet to blow myself up. Well its your call so good luck with the project and good shooting. LLS

[yondering]

How about dropping a 22 cal gas check in the cavity before casting? You'd have to make sure it sat level, and I'm guessing it would stay with the boolit, but should give you a nice hard flat nose.

Another option would be to hollow point the mold, and have different hp pins made up; one for flat nose, one for hollow point, one for a pointed shape if you want, etc.

[shotman]

Best way is load them and take a wood block drill hole so the 30-30 goes through to the point you want and take a mill file and make it a FN , A 311413 ends up about 150gr for my 30-30

[Larry Gibson]

Try taking a lid from the old metal GC cans (or another suitable lid) and set it pn the top edge of your furnace. Then pour a layer of BBs (steel or copper coated - doesn't matter) into the lid. As the alloy melts in the pot the BBs will warm up. Use a pair of tweezers to drop one into the cavity before closing the sprue plate. Pour the bullets then let the cool. The BBs can then be flicket out of the nose without to much problem - I use the edge of a screw driver. This leaves a dished point on the bullet. A top punch for a FN bullet will iron this out and even it up when sizing and seating the GC. If you use a Lee push through for that then run the bullet through GC first and the push rod will even the bullet tip up. This will shorten the OAL of the bullet and also makes for a nasty meplat. If the BBs aren't big enough get some small ball bearings slightly larger.

Larry Gibson

[XWrench3]

i think i will try Ray in NH's idea first. i like that idea. i think it would be easier, and faster just to file off the nose. i had thought of filing the nose off, but i did not know how to make it square. if that works decently, i will have my brother make me a peice out of tool steel and have him harden it. i would not bother him with something for prototype use though.

[Bret4207]

Filing or using side cutters would be much faster and just as effective.

[mroliver77]

I use a flat top punch and set it to bottom out and just a bit more to bump a flat on the nose. I have flattened very pointy boolits for use in leverguns this way. I really like Larrys BB idea.
Jay

[oso]

Watch out with BB's unless they are pure lead - they can float up in the mold and bugger the sprue cutter. I've used lead shot, IIRC #4 or #2 or .17 pellets depending on the mold, with some "success" some of the time.

[geargnasher]

You could use heavy-duty copper wire shears if you have them or garden shears of some kind (that will cut flat on one side) to rough-out the boolits and save filing, then finish -file the tips in a jig.

Gear