Fireforming Brass

[Wayne Smith]

Esteemed Board

I need to fireform some 9.5x47R to a unique 10.5x47R chamber. I tried a full case of 2F Goex under a wax plug but I think the wax didn't offer enough resistance (like none) and the experiment failed. I'm trying to think of what I can put in there to create enough resistance to fireform the case.

I have the Lyman .36 RB mold, but I can't think quickly of how I could crimp the top to hold them in place to create the pressure. I doubt the weight of even a couple of them would do the trick.

This chamber is a necked round with no real shoulder. There is a sinuous double curve instead, and it's a long one. Dave at CH4D said he'd seen nothing like it, and he's been in the business for a long time. Would fillers, maybe corn meal, work in a case like this?

This is for the combination gun that's been my project for some time now. I've got the brass, and the gun fires primers in both barrels. I'm still waiting on CH4D to get dies, or I'd simply neck up and crimp in one of the bullets I've designed.

Maybe use my combination bit to drill a tapered hole in some hard wood and drive this over the case? Make a crimp almost like a Russian Nagant pistol round?

Thanks.

[KCSO]

I think you might want to go to a quicker powder and a filler. I fire formed with 12 grains of Red Dot and filled the rest of the case with COW and packed a card wad on top. That made 30-30's into 38-55's right nicely. This also worked to take 303 cases out to 410 shotgun size.

[Wayne Smith]

Yeah, but this gun was made pre-1892 and, even tho it's fluid steel I'm limiting myself to BP or similar (777).

[AkMike]

It won't matter. You won't hurt it blowing out corn meal. Although you might need a couple of fireings to get it fully formed with a fast powder.

[Sailman]

KCSO

What is COW ?


Sailman

[swheeler]

cream of wheat

[drinks]

I use 5gr Universal and a tissue wad, then fill the case with cornmeal and put another tissue wad to make .220 Swift cases into .303 Savage cases, should do fine in your situation.
Don

[9.3X62AL]

Drinks--

THANK YOU for that 303 Savage idea! I have a buddy with a Savage 1899 so chambered that we'll be trying that with.

[drinks]

Al;
It is necessary to run the .220 case in the .303 die first, then there is a lot of trimming to do after fire forming.
I also make them from .30-30 cases, I cut a .2" ring from .40 S&W cases and press it down to the rim with a sleeve die set.
This centers the smaller .30-30 case in the chamber and relieves the base /body join of any expansion on firing.
I have loaded those cases to 2000fps with a 200gr cast bullet, actually exceeds the factory 190gr rn at 1950fps with no high pressure signs.
The attraction of the .30-30 conversion is the price, 5c per case vs 32c for the fireformed .220 cases.
Don

[9.3X62AL]

Copy that, Drinks. Thanks again!

[Dale53]

Wayne Smith;
A number of years ago, when dollars were scarce, I traded for some .30 magnum cases on full length (.375 H&H length) brass. I had a .375 H&H Magnum and needed brass. This stuff was brand new, sharp shouldered intended for 1000 yard shooting. I used Bullseye powder, Cream of Wheat filler, and a wax wad (push it the case mouth into a parafine cake). Point the rifle up in the air if you want the case mouths square. It is easiest to load this stuff at the range as you want to start low (5.0 grs) and gradually increase it until you are getting decent case "blow out". If you get too hot, the case mouth can stretch on one side or the other ruining the case. Do not overdo it. Just get it blown out until you can seat a bullet in it, then you can use a case full of black powder behind a bullet. One time with black powder and a bullet is normally enough to completely form the case. In this example black powder is actually better than smokeless.

Start low, and BE CAREFUL! At close range these blanks can maim and kill. If you don't believe me, shoot, at close range, into a scrap two by four. It will definitely get your attention.

Dale53