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peter nap
07-26-2009, 03:31 PM
I decided to give the new 6 banger Lee, 230 gr 452, a try. There is a learning curve to a 6 boolit mold. It took a few trys but I got the hang of it,

Do I need to oil the spru plate on Lee Molds?

No old maids:-D

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/peternap/IMG_3454.jpg

Ole
07-26-2009, 03:43 PM
Do I need to oil the spru plate on Lee Molds?




Just rub a little beeswax on it when it's hot. That's enough to keep it from wearing.

Key being "a little". It's easy to get too much on it and then you'll have wrinkly boolits.

peter nap
07-26-2009, 03:55 PM
Thanks Ole!

Ole
07-26-2009, 04:54 PM
One more thing I forgot to add:

Before you get too many boolits made with that mold, you should install a small screw at the point where the sprue plate levers into the aluminum to break the sprues.

Here's a picture of my 44 RD mold for reference:

http://mrpburke.com/fileupload/uploads/44mold.jpg

The screw keeps the harder metal from the sprue from wearing into the softer aluminum of the mold. :)

peter nap
07-26-2009, 05:01 PM
I read a post Buckshot made about that last night. (I've been doing a lot of reading here) I drilled and tapped and countersunk it before using the mold and, put a screw in.

Thanks for the tip though. That's one of the things I like about this site...everyone helps the newbies!

AZ-Stew
07-26-2009, 06:05 PM
Here's another pointer for you about Lee's six-bangers:

Be sure you have the sprue plate COMPLETELY closed before casting. Otherwise, you'll break the sprue cutter handle when you try to open the mould.

Regards,

Stew

Shiloh
07-26-2009, 06:16 PM
Do I need to oil the spru plate on Lee Molds?

After a while there is a product called BullPlate. Works great for sprues and pivot pins. See The Bullshop link at the pottom of the page.

Shiloh

snaggdit
07-27-2009, 12:44 AM
One more thing I forgot to add:

Before you get too many boolits made with that mold, you should install a small screw at the point where the sprue plate levers into the aluminum to break the sprues.

Here's a picture of my 44 RD mold for reference:

http://mrpburke.com/fileupload/uploads/44mold.jpg

The screw keeps the harder metal from the sprue from wearing into the softer aluminum of the mold. :)

First time I have heard of this. Good idea, I will have to tweak my three 6 cav lee molds.

Marlin Hunter
07-27-2009, 01:05 AM
I decided to give the new 6 banger Lee, 230 gr 452, a try. There is a learning curve to a 6 boolit mold. It took a few trys but I got the hang of it,

Do I need to oil the spru plate on Lee Molds?

No old maids:-D

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/peternap/IMG_3454.jpg


Nice looking bullets!

I noticed that your mold also has a step at the base after the taper.

I thought it was a Lee custom on my 45 mold. :mrgreen:

There does seem to be a few contaminate pits on the side of some bullets. I can't get them out of mine either. They seem to shoot good in my S&W and my friends Springfield without leading. I used wheel weight lead I bought off eBay, so there might be contamination in my lead.

Your sprue cut looks much better than mine

KYCaster
07-27-2009, 01:22 AM
There does seem to be a few contaminate pits on the side of some bullets. I can't get them out of mine either.


...Bottom pour pot....it comes with the territory. Very hard to stop it.

Crud clings to the sides and bottom of the pot and makes its way to the spout and causes the inclusions you see. Before you start casting, flux and scrape sides and bottom with a wood paint paddle then cover the surface with cat litter or charcoal...or use a ladle.

Jerry