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View Full Version : Just for a laugh my 30 cal pp mold



barrabruce
07-23-2009, 04:49 AM
Just for a laugh I thought I'd show a photo of me paper patch mold.

Having the proper tools for the job like a couple of hand drills and a grinder!!!
thought yeah no worries can do!!!

Got the hole drilled then realised....no this aint gunna be too sweet!!!
Too late for wrong way turn back but I did make a few bullets 9 of til somthing went wrong and it seazed up!!!

I used s/s tubing to hold the hollow pointed pin in place.

It seemed "Sticky" with the lead . Now I'd dun polished an all that facny stuff!!! Is this why I haven't heard of a s/s mold???

Best thing is I's got 4 more lead muffins out of the ww I melted to try it out with. [smilie=s:
Might load 'em up and see it they'd expand at low velocity and maybe at a decent charge....Heeheee!!!

Most folks would hide the evidence and deny ever thinking of such things!!!

Now!!!! .. DOes any one make a fully adjustable 30 cal paper patch mould with holla points 'n all!!!!

May try something else but as they say!!!!!
If you think it'll will take so long to make somtheing!!!
Add twice the time you think with a good lathe.
X that by 3 with a hobbie lathe
then X that by 4 with hand tools and it'll only take 'yer awhhh a "little bit long time maybe "!!!! Awhh Bugga!
Barra :coffee:

longbow
07-23-2009, 07:57 PM
I use a lathe and bore round bar to make simple push out moulds that can be adjustable weight if the entire nose form is a sliding fit. Tough to do without a lathe but not impossible if you have a drill press and do careful set up.

I think easiest for .30 cal. is to buy a reamer to suit your bore. I bought an N reamer at 0.302" if memory serves. It was standard and relatively cheap. Boolits cast at .301".

Again, if you have a lathe or access to one then you can make D reamers to whatever size you want. Quick and easy.

I always lap the mould after I make it so that it is smooth and has a very slight taper ~ maybe 0.0005" so the boolits drop out easy when the ejector is pushed.

I have a stainless mould but find it tends to overheat since stainless does not conduct heat as well as carbon steel. Oddly, I do find that when it gets really hot lead does stick to it a bit.

Longbow

barrabruce
07-23-2009, 11:21 PM
Thanks longbow Hmm no more s/s pins.
This cast a bit over from what I need as far as I can tell...so no great loss.
Was worth the effort..just to get my feet wet.
No drill press nor lathe....but the up side is the wife was watching me do some fancy "machining" with the 4" grinder and drill.
Reckon's I can have a lathe if I get rid of some junk and make way in the shed!!!!
Whoo Hooo.

Barrabruce

barrabruce
07-27-2009, 06:02 AM
Yes now I think I'll have to make a paper patch mould. Well a proper job or get some-one more competent to do it for me.

I think I'll stick to things I can do at the moment.

so I made a rough whack'em though sizer, played with some different paper till I sort of got the hang of this wrapping caper and gave them a blast.

Initial 12 rounds I made up didn't far to well as I tried to seat them a bit off the lands and keep them in place by a crimp with a lee load all.
Grouped poorly.

The last 7-8 I had I gave a couple of scoops of ADI 2207 and just let what little reistance I had on the unsized case necks seat them to the lands or where they wanted to be.
I did coat the projectiles with alox because they will still contact the bore by a thou or maybe 2.

Pic says it all. Ist shot from a just cleaned barrell was high the rest grouped quite nicely.
I reckon they shot about as good I could have possible hoped for.
Velocity a guesstamated sedatly 1700 ft/s. the patches appeared to come off in petals that 2 of seemed to waft down from the front of the roof of the shooting range. I couldn't find any thou when I looked.
Cheers
Barra

docone31
07-27-2009, 10:12 AM
Hey, no keyholes, confetti, might want to bump up the load a tad.
I do not lube my patches. The only slippery I have on them is the Auto Wax I use for sizeing. Definately do not crimp! Just neck tension.
Not bad for an homemade!

303Guy
07-27-2009, 02:42 PM
barrabruce, those weren't home mades you were shooting, right?

I think you should keep on at making molds. It gets easier and better and your first one doesn't look too shabby!:drinks:

I'll be looking forward to your next set of results.:Fire:

barrabruce
07-27-2009, 03:47 PM
The bullets I was using are a bunch of 150 factory cast with green muck on the.
The patches don't stick to the green hard coating/lube stuff them like the plain lead ones.
Have tried soaking in turps but no joy getting it off.

The mould I made tapers too much at the back .and a thou or 2 bigger than I wished.
I was trying to get near the bore diameter but no dice.
Plus its too long after I patch to seat into the lands and the base goes in under the neck.

I may cut it down a bit and make a new pin for it and see if I haven't wrecked it too much to be able to use it.

I tried drilling a mould yesterday ..using a pilot hole for the larger drill and ejection pin but it didn't run true and the smaller hole is out of alignmet with the bore..:) Maybe I'll have to sharpen the drill on a grinding wheel instead of a 4 " grinder :(
Iv'e seemed to have lost the touch over the years to drill accurately by hand...Need a more stable platform.

Apart form that all is going well.

I may try and patch out till the bullets seat tight straight into the fired cases and see how they go as well.

I thought as I'm scraping lead I might need lube to stop galling the lands even thou it is buggar all.

Bruce

303Guy
07-27-2009, 04:19 PM
I've never been able to drill straight free-hand! But there is a trick or two two make the drill bit drill on size and follow a pilot - but then you know all that! Now if your mold block had a straight bore to accept inserts that could be lathe turned .... ![smilie=1:

I'm still learning how to use my lathe without digital read-outs.:roll:

Have a look at my thread, "Two double wraps - another crazy experiment." (How does one insert links to another thread?)

Here, I have taken an undersize boolit and used two separate double wraps to get to to bore ride at the nose section and fit the case at the rear. I've no idea how it might shoot on the range but the boolit did not slip on the rifling. I'm thinking of trying note pad paper for the primary full length patch and tough tracing paper for the rifling engaging second half patch. (The idea being to facilitate the patch coming off at the muzzle).

My first boolit molds were designed and made tapered and over size. 8.05mm (.317) diam at the base which was about as large as the throat could swage. The nose section contacted the leade. They weighed in at 225gr. Preliminary range tests were very encouraging at MOA. These were unpatched and heavily coated in 'waxy-lube'. You could say they were 'waxy-lube' patched!:mrgreen:

SierraWhiskeyMC
08-09-2009, 02:25 AM
Have a look at my thread, "Two double wraps - another crazy experiment." (How does one insert links to another thread?)

Link: Two double wraps - another crazy experiment. (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=58273)


(How does one insert links to another thread?)
I usually just copy the URL out of the address bar, and paste it right into the thread, like this: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=58273

However, you can also use the "Insert Link" button (looks like this: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/editor/createlink.gif ) on the "Go Advanced" bar (right below the white smiley icon)