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kamikaze1a
07-16-2009, 12:28 AM
I've tried both Lee 175gr molds and have had some feeding problems with both. Feeds well most of the time but getting a few FTRB during matches which is killing my score. Want to try the RCBS 180gr flat point 82066 or Saeco 170gr SWC 045. Anybody casting these that would sell me a few boo's so that I can try them out before I buy the molds? Or I would be willing to trade a few of my Lee cast 175gr TL SWC or 175 TC's for a few of yours...

Johnch
07-16-2009, 12:48 AM
Just a thought

I also had a once in a great while problem with the Lee TC 175 40 bullet ( standard lube )
But I found in my Sig that I was seating the bullet ever so slightly out to far

I shortened my OAL to the point where there was almost no shoulder of the TC sticking out of the case
My problems disapeared


John

kamikaze1a
07-16-2009, 01:10 AM
Hi Johnch, I have a Lone Wolf barrel on my G35 and have to seat the boo's like that or it won't go into battery. Apparently, the rifling is very tight. The feeding problem I am having is the round is about 60% chambered and I think the nose is hitting the headspace ledge. Problem is, it almost always happens during matches so I can not stop and really inspect why it jammed. I'm thinking I need a different profile nose... RCBS's flat point seems to have a rounder ogive but hard to invest in another mold only to find the problem is still there. Gonna try a heavier recoil spring with my existing castings...

Shiloh
07-16-2009, 06:59 AM
Had to seat the LEE 175 gr TLSWC a little deeper than recommended. I cut back the powder charge some and it works fine. I also have the same mold that has had the Bevel Base trimmed off to the first lube groove. Boolit from that mold drops at 158 grain.

Works great. VERY accurate.

Shiloh

I

MiHec
07-16-2009, 07:24 AM
you might try this one

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=48916

Dennis Eugene
07-16-2009, 11:25 AM
I have some RCBS 10MM-170-SWC That work very well in my S&W 4006 I'd be more than willing to send ya a hunnert or so to try. Dennis

kamikaze1a
07-16-2009, 06:12 PM
Hi Dennis, That would be great! Do you do paypal? I can send you some $$$. Thanks! K

kamikaze1a
07-16-2009, 06:18 PM
Shiloh, I seat my boo's right up the ogive. Any longer and the slide won't go into battery. The rifling hits touches the boolit if I leave any of the bearing surface above the case with this Lone Wolf barrel...I like the conventional rifling for lead, the supported chamber for case life but this tighter chamber sure takes away some of the feeding reliability... It's a good thing my life is not on the line and it's only points that I am losing when it feeds poorly.

gon2shoot
07-16-2009, 07:17 PM
I agree with the seating depth theory, mine is VERY picky.

fredj338
07-16-2009, 07:22 PM
Truncated cone bullets can be very finicky in tight chambers requireing deeper seating. I have the Saeco mold as well as the Lyman 175grRNFP. I have some Lymans cast but no Saecos.

leadman
07-16-2009, 08:43 PM
There is an easy way to check for proper seating depth. Unload the gun, run the slide forward. Put a rod in the barrel from the muzzle end, mark the end of the barrel on the rod while it is seated against the breech. Lock the slide open, take a loose boolit and put it in the chamber, use something to hold the boolit against the rifling, put the rod against the end of the boolit while held against the rifling. Mark the rod at the end of the barrel.
The distance between the 2 points is your max. overall length of your cartridge with that boolit. I usually load to an overall length about ten thousands shorter then max oal.

kamikaze1a
07-16-2009, 10:45 PM
The method I used is seat the boo to max OAL and drop it in the chamber. If the base of the shell is longer than the back of the barrel, I seat it deeper until it is at least flush with the back of the barrel. In this case, I have to seat the boo's right up to the ogive to get the shell base to be flush with the back of the barrel. Any longer and the slide won't go into battery because the boo is touching the throat/rifling...

geargnasher
07-16-2009, 11:40 PM
Shiloh, I seat my boo's right up the ogive. Any longer and the slide won't go into battery. The rifling hits touches the boolit if I leave any of the bearing surface above the case with this Lone Wolf barrel...I like the conventional rifling for lead, the supported chamber for case life but this tighter chamber sure takes away some of the feeding reliability... It's a good thing my life is not on the line and it's only points that I am losing when it feeds poorly.

I think Shiloh was indicating "deeper" into the case, not the rifling, i.e. your cartridge oal is possibly still a tad too long.

Gear

kamikaze1a
07-17-2009, 12:07 AM
Sorry for not being clearer. I meant that I am seating as deep as possible...any deeper and the ogive will be into the shell mouth. Or if the bullet is seated any less deep, the boo will touch the rifling.

sleeper1428
07-17-2009, 02:59 AM
I've tried both Lee 175gr molds and have had some feeding problems with both. Feeds well most of the time but getting a few FTRB during matches which is killing my score. Want to try the RCBS 180gr flat point 82066 or Saeco 170gr SWC 045. Anybody casting these that would sell me a few boo's so that I can try them out before I buy the molds? Or I would be willing to trade a few of my Lee cast 175gr TL SWC or 175 TC's for a few of yours...

I have the SAECO 170gr SWC mould (045) that you're interested in and, if I'm not mistaken, I think I have several hundred boolits already cast (my own version of Taracorp Magnum Alloy 92-2-6 BH 15-16), sized (.401) and lubed (White Label 50/50). Give me your mailing address and I'll send you 50 so you can try them out. No payment necessary. I shoot these in both 40S&W and 10mm (Glocks with LWD barrels) and they work great but as others have stated, seating depth is critical due to the tight cut of the LWD barrel chambers. And although it's off the subject, I have to say that I shot these in stock Glock barrels (40S&W and 10mm) for over 20 years without a single problem with leading. I only bought the LWD barrels in an attempt to increase accuracy due to the tighter chamber cuts and the cut rifling that seems to work better with lead boolits.

You might also want to have a look at the Lyman 38/40 mould #401043. This is actually a rifle boolit meant for the 38/40 but at 175gr it is just right for the 40S&W, it has a great nose shape (FN) and it casts just over .401 which is right on the money for either a 40S&W or a 10mm handgun. I've been casting and using this boolit for quite a few years and I have found it to be one of the neatest boolits for this caliber. It feeds just as if it were a round nose and I haven't experienced a single jam or FTF when using it in my 40's. If you'd like, I'll be happy to send you 50 of these - same alloy, same sizing and same lubing as the SAECO's - so you can try them out at the same time as you're testing the SAECO's. Just let me know and I'll get them off to you.

sleeper1428

kamikaze1a
07-17-2009, 04:58 PM
sleeper, Thanks for the offer and the lead for that mold. Other than the two lube grooves and different profile, it looks like it was made for self loaders. I'll send you a PM and thanks!

As for my barrel choice, I like the Wolf barrel primarily for the better case support and less overall case bulge. The standard rifling is a plus and makes me feel better when dealing with the high pressure 40 round. My other 40, an SV, also has a supported barrel but looser chamber so the brass comes out visibly bigger than my G35.

Thanks again and will shoot you a PM...