Lyman 4500 question

[wallenba]

I just finished lubing my first fifty boolits on my new Lyman 4500. This is my first lubrisizer. I managed to get it to work properly, but occasionally I would get "disks" of lube on the bottom of the boolit. What causes this? Also, when I'm through, should I immediately remove the sizer die and clean it? The booklet overlooked the post sizing info.

[Trey45]

I have a new 4500 too, I get those discs of lube, I've read and heard it comes from over pressure of the lube and/or misalignment of die. I have tried adjusting the die, tried only lubing on warm days to aid in lube viscosity, I still get some lube under the boolit occasionally.
I have heard cutting a styrofoam disc that fits under the bullet will help keep lube off the bottom. I havent tried it yet.
Is your new 4500 black speckled paint too? Never seen a black lyman before until I got this one.

[wallenba]

Yeah, it's black and silver speckled, looks wierd next to all the red on my bench.

[462]

wallenba,

Too much pressure.

I remove the die and top punch and store them. Removing the lube from the outside of the die makes it easier to install, the next time you use it.

Also, back off the pressure screw a few turns. No sense keeping the reservoir pressurized when not in use.

[wallenba]

wallenba,

Too much pressure.

I remove the die and top punch and store them. Removing the lube from the outside of the die makes it easier to install, the next time you use it.

Also, back off the pressure screw a few turns. No sense keeping the reservoir pressurized when not in use. Thanks, I was about to pull the die with pressure on it. I was just waiting for the heater to cool down.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I agree with the thought of too much pressure. I usually do 3 maybe 4 boolits before I give the wrench a 1/8th to 1/4 crank. As for the lube on the base, I keep an old towel stretched fairly taut next to the sizer that I give the boolit a quick butt wipe on. I keep a small bit hobby screwdriver nearby to clean off the sizer die ram top of lube, I scrape this lube off into a small dish for next luber refill. As for the sizing die I back off the wrench several turns before removing the die. If a heater was used I wait about 20 min. before removing the die. I usually use the same towel to clean the dies outside for next time use.:castmine:Robert

[10mmShooter]

Wallenba,

I had a similar problem, I'm new the casting/sizing thing. I got my 4500 and a couple of tube of Ideal(standard) lube thinking hey the make the Lyman 4500 and their original lube "should" be best for their press......well not in my application.

I have the heater and wanted a lube that would be completely non sticky at room temp(70 degrees year round in reloading room, max temp at outdoor range 95-100 in the summer). Well the Ideal lube was a complete mess, heater on/off pressure no pressure, lube was constantly poping in under my bullets as I raised the bullet.

This was not acceptable for me...so a little research on the "harder" lubes and between Blue Angel and Rooster Zambini, I chose the Zambini.

Now sizing and lubing is fun, heater MUST be on for Red Rooster Z to flow, its very thick and require positive pressure to flow, with it I have no more messy mess the bullets come out of the sizer and I can throw them right into my bin...with no consideration for the lube its completely dry to the touch and complety non-sticky to the touch right out of the 4500.

As noted, the bullets do need a butt wipe as you remove them, but the mess is much more mangable with hard lube.

Before everyone jumps on me for suggesting a hard lube, I shoot all my cast bullets at less than 1000 fps, maximum lubrication is not required for my bullets.

[wallenba]

10MMshooter, I'm right there with you on the low velocity. I shoot primarily indoors in the winter up here in Michigan and store my stuff in the house, so a hard lube is OK with me. I'm using Orange magic, I threw out the moly lube that came with the 4500. I am a former tumble luber, I got tired of the balancing act of trying to get it just right. I usually found it smokier than I cared for, even after thinning it. After lubing and sizing with the Lyman, and new boolit molds, I regret not doing this sooner. It may be more work at the bench, but in reality it uses LESS time as you don't have to wait overnight.

[Echo]

I lube by feel with my RCBS/Lach's. I give the wrench a twist every couple of boolits. I don't try to build up a ton of pressure. With practice, it becomes easy to twist that wrench just enough to fully lube the grooves. And I don't use heat, except in the winter when the 50/50 sulks and won't cooperate. And you can do the same with the Lyman.

[Rockchucker]

Does anyone know where to locate the fittings to adapt the Lyman to an air source to regulate the pressure? Another question, How do you adjust the sizer to stop the bullet from going down into the die so far that lube doesn't get on the nose of the bullet. Last question, I've been having a hard time locating dies and top punches that I need from Midway, They seem to have some dies I need but not all, And the Lyman site seems to be very expensive?

[462]

Rockchucker,

1. Don't know about lubrisizer compressor fittings. Can't imagine why one would want such, either. The wrench works perfectly.

2. Turn the adjusting screw up to raise the push rod.

3. For dies and top punches, give Midsouth a try.

[ph4570]

I find that the lube on the bottom of the bullet can be significantly reduced by keeping the pressue just at that required to get lube into the boolit grooves. This takes some getting used to for the particular lube and temperature.

To a lesser degree, I find that not cranking the lube pressue wrench with the boolit in the machine and the handle down helps. So, only crank in more pressue with the handle in the up position.

Even so, I still give them an ass-wipe.