I wish somebody made.....................

[45nut]

Ok,, we have lot's of talented hands and minds here and I am after ideas for stuff that maybe you think someone should make.
[smilie=s:

[cheese1566]

A drill holder to fit a Hornady case deburr tool, many out there for Forster/Sinclair/RCBS/Lymans...

[SciFiJim]

I am still finding out what I need and what is not available (which I have to fabricate). The biggest lack of something that I have seen so far is money. So, I wish somebody made..................... a money mold to cast money from WWs.

[wallenba]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

[JesterGrin_1]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

I think that would be nice but they would be so expensive that not many would be purchased. Things with real wood that are built well are few and far between and if you do find them they are expensive. That is why many build there own from plans or wing it lol.

But if one wishes to be honest even if the kit did seem expensive when one takes into account there time and the cost of the wood which is not cheap now by the way to build there own bench they would save money on a good kit bench.

I got real lucky. As I was by my local SEARS store and they had a couple of Wood wood working tables that they were closing out. And picked one up for 100.00 out the door. And then put a solid core Door on top that is 84 by 32. Works great. :)

[skeeter1911]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

I ran across these that look pretty nice. Not affiliated in any way.
http://www.americanworkbench.com/Reloadbenches.html

[jdgabbard]

...good casting ladles that didn't cost an arm and leg...

[largom]

45nut, I can't think of anything I have'nt already made but I am sure going to watch this thread.
Larry

[JesterGrin_1]

I think that would be nice but they would be so expensive that not many would be purchased. Things with real wood that are built well are few and far between and if you do find them they are expensive. That is why many build there own from plans or wing it lol.

But if one wishes to be honest even if the kit did seem expensive when one takes into account there time and the cost of the wood which is not cheap now by the way to build there own bench they would save money on a good kit bench.

I got real lucky. As I was by my local SEARS store and they had a couple of Wood wood working tables that they were closing out. And picked one up for 100.00 out the door. And then put a solid core Door on top that is 84 by 32. Works great. :)

Here it is. Sorry for the Mess as I have just set it up the last few days.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/IMAG0045.jpg

[Marvin S]

Left hand spout type cast iron ladle.

[Buckshot]

Here it is. Sorry for the Mess as I have just set it up the last few days.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/IMAG0045.jpg

.............Holy cats! I haven't seen that much available benchtop since I don't remember when :-) You could set 3-4 DOZEN coffee cups down on that. And look at THAT, there is actually some FLOOR in your picture! Just wait though, you WILL eventually get enough stuff sitting around that you'll finally generate that inter-dimensional warp field that exists down at the bottom of most well used work-reloading benches.

I swear there are some that if a bowling ball rolled off the top you'd hear it hit the floor, but that would be the end of it. You wouldn't find it again on a bet. If you have such and you're attuned, while standing there you can feel it sucking at the toes of your PF Flyers.

...............Buckshot

[JesterGrin_1]

Buckshot well my Garage looks like a Tornado Twister hit it lol. Just too much stuff lol. And have too many hobbies lol. But I am going to give up a couple lol. Ok more than a couple lol. As I like to load and play with stuff that goes BANG lol. But my other hobbie I will keep as long as I am able as I do like to build stuff. So my other project is a 73 Corvette that I am rebuilding the whole driveline along with upgrades. But it is slow as money is tite. So till I can purchase more parts I am doing some shooting and reloading.

I swear there is not one part on a Corvette under $100.oo lol. Or sure seems that way lol.

[American Workbench]

I ran across these that look pretty nice. Not affiliated in any way.
http://www.americanworkbench.com/Reloadbenches.html

Hey Skeeter, Thanks for running across my site! Over the past to years our reload benches have been evolving. We have been building these benches for technical schools and many other folks. We recently received an order from Richard Gallagher who is the owner of Galco leather. If anyone has any suggestion I'd love to hear them. We are currently taking our Gardeners Bench and turning it into a reload bench as well! Stay tuned, in a few weeks we'll have that one online.

Again, Thanks

John

[Dean D.]

A custom fit splash guard for my old "drip-o-matic" bottom pour! [smilie=l: [smilie=f:

[deltaenterprizes]

Left hand spout type cast iron ladle.

It won't be cast iron but an RCBS ladle can be drilled and tapped to make it left handed. I have seen cast iron ladels with spouts on both sides.

[wallenba]

I would shoot my auto's more if someone made a good functional brass catcher that would attach, say to the bottom of a magazine, or clip to the forearm. I truly hate picking up brass, especially at a public range with everyone stepping on them and getting them mixed up. I like MY brass back cause I know their history.

[yondering]

A custom fit splash guard for my old "drip-o-matic" bottom pour! [smilie=l: [smilie=f:

That's a good idea. How about a short piece of pipe, maybe 2" diameter, maybe 1" or so long? Stand it on end under the spout, there should be enough room for the mold to clear it, and the drips should all stay inside the pipe. My drip-o-matic leaves little teardrops of lead everywhere from the drip splashes. Gonna have to try this next time, thanks for the idea.

[Caver Dave]

I truly hate picking up brass, especially at a public range with everyone stepping on them and getting them mixed up. I like MY brass back cause I know their history.

Here's something I saw some reloaders doing to help ID their brass (commercial or reloads)...

While still in a packaging tray, give the backsides a light wipe (removes excess lube) and run a Sharpie marker (multiple folks shooting the same caliper/headstamp use different colors) down the centers across the headstamps. The mark the won't affect anything and will allow you to easily ID your brass from rest.

[Longrange]

I am with caver dave on the sharpe. All my brass is marked with a red line down the center. A few of the guys at the range started marking their brass with black marks after they saw me picking up brass and saying no, no, no, mine, no. Thats when they undersud the marks.

[wallenba]

Here's something I saw some reloaders doing to help ID their brass (commercial or reloads)...

While still in a packaging tray, give the backsides a light wipe (removes excess lube) and run a Sharpie marker (multiple folks shooting the same caliper/headstamp use different colors) down the centers across the headstamps. The mark the won't affect anything and will allow you to easily ID your brass from rest.
Hey Dave, I'm already marking the brass, but being lazy I was looking to eliminate the 'hunt' so as to have more quality time at the range. I have a plastic catcher for my 1911 made by E & L Mfg. Riddle Or. (541) 874-2137 that works well, but only fits 1911's without the ambidextrous safety, and it's the only one that fits a handgun, (1911's only). The problem with it is that there is just a very small gap between the catcher and the slide to sight through.:roll:

[Jumptrap]

Ok,, we have lot's of talented hands and minds here and I am after ideas for stuff that maybe you think someone should make.
[smilie=s:

This is easy!

An affordable snail type bullet trap....or even a set of plans on how to fabricate the snail from pipe. I've never figured out how to convert heavy wall pipe into a noodle...hehe!

[yondering]

An affordable snail type bullet trap....or even a set of plans on how to fabricate the snail from pipe. I've never figured out how to convert heavy wall pipe into a noodle...hehe!

For the "snail" section, you can use a piece of large pipe (12" or more, bigger is better) and split it in half lengthwise, so you have two C shaped pieces. Looking at them from the end, with the split oriented vertically, move the front piece down 2-3", and weld the end plates on to hold them in that position. That leaves a gap on top and bottom; Weld a couple plates of steel to the top gap, in a wedge or funnel shape, to shoot into. The bullet will enter the pipe, spin around a few times, and drop out the gap at the bottom. Look at the website snailtraps.com, they make something like this, but in large scale for shooting ranges.

The "affordable" part just depends on the steel cost. I tried to buy some steel remnants to make one of these last year, the steel yard wanted $180 for a 10" long chunk of 12" pipe, and 4x2 feet of 5/16" plate! These were remnants that were already cut and headed for the scrap pile! I said no thanks and left, haven't been back since.

[Salmon-boy]

I'd like to know if somebody made die-cut boxes for .30 M1 like the original 50 round gvmt boxes.

[American Workbench]

I ran across these that look pretty nice. Not affiliated in any way.
http://www.americanworkbench.com/Reloadbenches.html

Hi Skeeter, Like I mentioned in my last post we were working on a new reload bench. Please let me know what you think. This one was for a surgeon in NC.

[wallenba]

Hi Skeeter, Like I mentioned in my last post we were working on a new reload bench. Please let me know what you think. This one was for a surgeon in NC. I would add one very easy modification, not really necessary as loaders could do it themselves, but a toe kick guard would keep all of the round thingys we work with from rolling way back under the bench after we drop them.:wink:

[wallenba]

I wish the press manufacturers would include a bolt boss in the casting base that an adjustable stanchon could be bolted to, that reached the floor to transfer the downward force to the floor instead of fatiguing the edge of the workbench.

[lunicy]

I am still finding out what I need and what is not available (which I have to fabricate). The biggest lack of something that I have seen so far is money. So, I wish somebody made..................... a money mold to cast money from WWs.

Could always cast quarter size slugs. :kidding:

You might not get rich, but you could play the donkey kong machine forever:kidding:

[runfiverun]

wish someone would make an adapter so i could use rcbs/lyman sizers in my stars.

[redneckdan]

If I recall correctly, Ken did that with duct tape...maybe it was some one else.

[45nut]

Actually I used a spring, found one that was just thick enough to take up the difference and then wound it around the die.

[chrisx1]

I have seen a lot of ideas posted about how to keep the handle on your Star from falling down at the wrong time and giving you a lump on your head....but does someone sell a kit?

If not, I am going to start.

[splattersmith]

A Cherry 2000 to do my case cleaning.

[45nut]

a handheld cutting tool with precision adjustable cutting blades to remove bb or gc shanks from molds, something simple enough for even me to use. thinking it could be set up like a micrometer that as you dial it up, the blades reach out just a tad more each time.

[rugerman1]

Sorta like a ridge reamer for engines,Ken?

[RugerFan]

A Cherry 2000 to do my case cleaning.

Married fellas would never get away with owning one, but I hear ya brother ; )

[Tazman1602]

Left hand spout type cast iron ladle.

I second that one +1

[Forester]

maybe it is already out there, but some adjustable way to chamfer and debur case mouths both at one time.

Bonus points if it fits an RCBS case prep center or Wilson trimmer.

[chrisx1]

maybe it is already out there, but some adjustable way to chamfer and debur case mouths both at one time.

Bonus points if it fits an RCBS case prep center or Wilson trimmer.

Here you go: Lyman Case Care Kit (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=442091)

More pics (click on the smaller ones for a full size pic)

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii174/chrisx1/Lyman%20Case%20Care%20Kit/IMG_0854.jpg

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii174/chrisx1/Lyman%20Case%20Care%20Kit/th_IMG_0856.jpg (http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii174/chrisx1/Lyman%20Case%20Care%20Kit/?action=view&current=IMG_0856.jpg)

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii174/chrisx1/Lyman%20Case%20Care%20Kit/th_IMG_0857.jpg (http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii174/chrisx1/Lyman%20Case%20Care%20Kit/?action=view&current=IMG_0857.jpg)

The attachment that looks like a cone has an adjustable "arm" that does the debur function, and obviously, the cone does the chamfer.

I have one and it works pretty well, but you do have to adjust it for each caliber, but it's just a matter of the one set screw.

Chris

[johnlaw484]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

My benches are made from oak laminated semi trailer flooring. I got from a company that makes trailer floors. The pieces were left over scrap.

I made a bench for a friend that was just getting started in reloading last year.

[Netherwolf]

I wish the press manufacturers would include a bolt boss in the casting base that an adjustable stanchon could be bolted to, that reached the floor to transfer the downward force to the floor instead of fatiguing the edge of the workbench.

A couple of 1" pipes with pipe threads on each end. Add mounting flanges on each (don't know if that's the proper name) end of the pipes such that the overall length fits snuggly between the bottom of your bench & the floor. Secure the flanges to the bottom of the bench & the floor directly under your press. You could probably accomplish the same thing with a 4x4 (or two) with "L" brackets on each end. Either way, no more bench fatiguing.

Netherwolf

[deltaenterprizes]

a handheld cutting tool with precision adjustable cutting blades to remove bb or gc shanks from molds, something simple enough for even me to use. thinking it could be set up like a micrometer that as you dial it up, the blades reach out just a tad more each time.


That is called an adjustable reamer, the problem is getting it perfectly centered.






there is a post showing a member removing gas check shank with a drill bit a drill press vise and a drill press, go figure!

[deltaenterprizes]

maybe it is already out there, but some adjustable way to chamfer and debur case mouths both at one time.

Bonus points if it fits an RCBS case prep center or Wilson trimmer.

Lyman makes one, look in their catalog about $11.95.
I just saw the post byChrisX, that is the one, but I didn't know they made a crank handle for it.

[blikseme300]

I have seen a lot of ideas posted about how to keep the handle on your Star from falling down at the wrong time and giving you a lump on your head....but does someone sell a kit?

If not, I am going to start.

ChrisX1, get a hard hat or learn to duck! :twisted: I always leave the handle in the down position before I take my hand off the handle.

Bliksem

[badgeredd]

I had a thought this afternoon as my arm was getting tired from holding the mold will casting. I switched hands and realized just how much of a righty I am, but it occurred to me that I don't recall seeing a bottom pour with a left handed lever for the spout. Is there one made?

It really doesn't look like it would be hard to bend up a left handed lever for my Lee pot.

Edd

[testhop]

Could always cast quarter size slugs. :kidding:

You might not get rich, but you could play the donkey kong machine forever:kidding:

better yet make them out of zinc.

[deltaenterprizes]

I had a thought this afternoon as my arm was getting tired from holding the mold will casting. I switched hands and realized just how much of a righty I am, but it occurred to me that I don't recall seeing a bottom pour with a left handed lever for the spout. Is there one made?

It really doesn't look like it would be hard to bend up a left handed lever for my Lee pot.

Edd

I swapped sides on my Pro Melt

[haven't got a clue]

I wish someone would come up with a carbide type die for tapered and shouldered cases so I wouldn't have to mess with lubing the cases. I get lube all over my fingers and when I pick my nose it causes an irritation which causes me to sneeze and whoosh...there goes all my gunpowder!!

[koehlerrk]

I wish someone would come up with a carbide type die for tapered and shouldered cases so I wouldn't have to mess with lubing the cases. I get lube all over my fingers and when I pick my nose it causes an irritation which causes me to sneeze and whoosh...there goes all my gunpowder!!

I take it you haven't tried a Lee collet die...

[Throwback]

I would like to have a rifle die set up like a case trimming die but longer, set up so that you could insert a loaded round and and adjust the die to change a pointed bullet to flat with a file. This way better hunting profiles could be created and bullets could also be made more appropriate for lever actions.

[johnlaw484]

I am still finding out what I need and what is not available (which I have to fabricate). The biggest lack of something that I have seen so far is money. So, I wish somebody made..................... a money mold to cast money from WWs.


Check with Uncle O. He's doing a lot of that lately.

[johnlaw484]

.............Holy cats! I haven't seen that much available benchtop since I don't remember when :-) You could set 3-4 DOZEN coffee cups down on that. And look at THAT, there is actually some FLOOR in your picture! Just wait though, you WILL eventually get enough stuff sitting around that you'll finally generate that inter-dimensional warp field that exists down at the bottom of most well used work-reloading benches.

I swear there are some that if a bowling ball rolled off the top you'd hear it hit the floor, but that would be the end of it. You wouldn't find it again on a bet. If you have such and you're attuned, while standing there you can feel it sucking at the toes of your PF Flyers.

...............Buckshot
I hate neat people!:kidding:

[johnlaw484]

My driveway sweeper pickups everybody's brass, but that's OK. It beats bending over.

[patsher]

Originally Posted by wallenba
I truly hate picking up brass, especially at a public range with everyone stepping on them and getting them mixed up. I like MY brass back cause I know their history.

I modified a fold-up umbrella I got at the dollar store to help catch brass. It's real windy where I live, so I took off the fabric and replaced it with a big piece of netting from the fabric store. Prop it up on the bench with a couple sandbags next to where I'm shooting. Not perfect, but deflects them downward and close by. Saves a LOt of time chasing them! :bigsmyl2:

[JIMinPHX]

Left hand spout type cast iron ladle.

Don't those handles just screw on? Can't you just drill a clearance hole in the other side & put the handle on from over there?

[lylejb]

an inexpensive way to reload 410 shotgun.

I know I can't be the only one that has a kid with a 410, that will likely "trade up" in a year or two.

I just can't justify the expense of buying the full MEC setup for a shotgun that's "temporary"

Lee doesn't make a lee loader, or a shotgun press for 410. In there FAQ's they point you to MEC for 410.

It should be possible to make a die set for a rockchucker, or similar press, to do 410 2.5"
you would need an extended shell holder to clear the larger shotgun primers

[daboone]

Improve this idea into a practical lead furnace:

www.periodictable.com/PopSci/2003/09/1/index.html

[JIMinPHX]

an inexpensive way to reload 410 shotgun.

I know I can't be the only one that has a kid with a 410, that will likely "trade up" in a year or two.

I just can't justify the expense of buying the full MEC setup for a shotgun that's "temporary"

Lee doesn't make a lee loader, or a shotgun press for 410. In there FAQ's they point you to MEC for 410.

It should be possible to make a die set for a rockchucker, or similar press, to do 410 2.5"
you would need an extended shell holder to clear the larger shotgun primers

Somebody was talking about making up a Lee Loader type thing for the .410 a few months back. It may have been Lathesmith. I don't really remember.

I had written a letter to Lee a few years ago asking them to please either bring back the .410 Lee Loader or else bring out a Lee Load All in .410. I never got a response.

I had a quick go at doing that sort of thing myself a while back. My results were sort of OK on the first try. You can see what I did, starting around post #16 in this thread - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=20002&highlight=.410

The part that I didn't get done was finding a place to buy crimp starters in .410.

[whitetailsniper]

very interesting question,even more so with ideas,so heres mine, id like to see a see through window in my lubamatic 2 press letting me know the level of lube left. hense air gaps ,and time to clean it out. theres alot of load data books out there,,how about a lube formula book,with directions,and differant resipies,this i think would be nice to have on hand,and should be on every load bench. i think it would be a hot ticket. also how about a offset adaptor to convert a single stage press into a 7hole turret press. also how about a brass holding clear tubes,most guys are either bagging it, or boxing it,how about clear plastic tubes, the diamiter would be 6cases in a circle inside the tubes,and the tubes marked=6 for the fist level,next level up 12,next level up 18,and so on,making 50 and 100 round tubes,with srew cap ends,this would stop the counting of brass,and save time for knowing exactly what,and how many needed. these tubes can be made for all caliber handguns,rifles. if tube gets knocked over so what,theres not going anywere,and can be seen exactly whats what,and how many with a simple look. no more bags, torn bags,boxes,counting,spilling,ect. theres my sugestions. i think the lube formula cook,resipe book,and the brass tube holder will be hot sellers. i have more!! im loaded-lol

[RedneckAlbertan]

I wish someone would come up with a carbide type die for tapered and shouldered cases so I wouldn't have to mess with lubing the cases. I get lube all over my fingers and when I pick my nose it causes an irritation which causes me to sneeze and whoosh...there goes all my gunpowder!!

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24498/catid/4/Dillon_Carbide_Rifle_Dies__Individual___Three_Die_ Sets_

If you read the description of the dies from Dillon you still need to lube their bottleneck carbide dies.

[testhop]

I am still finding out what I need and what is not available (which I have to fabricate). The biggest lack of something that I have seen so far is money. So, I wish somebody made..................... a money mold to cast money from WWs.


better yet use zinc ww .

that way you can savethe good ww and dont waste good ww.

[tonyjones]

Field goal kickers practice kicks on the sideline using a frame that supports netting. Has anyone thought of putting a smaller mesh net in a light weight, collapsible, portable frame? That should collect brass from an auto loader.
Regards,
Tony

[mold maker]

It's already being done by a fellow here in NC. Knock down frame of PVC pipe and a net that collects in a fold at the bottom. I saw them at a Hickory NC gun show about 3 months ago.
Frame, net and all folded into a 8"X4' bag, and weighed about 8 lbs. Very neat idea. :p
Rare brass and high grass would still be easy as eating pie. :p

[Edubya]

I've got one that mounts on a tripod. I've used it several times when I was in very grassy or muddy areas. It's too much trouble and not 100% reliable to use all of the time. It's about 18"X18".

EW

[dicko]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

That's a handsome bench in JesterGrin's photo. But I don't like bottom shelves on benches, you just hack your shins on them. A bench like that, using a solid core door as a top, is a piece of cake to make, and cheap. I've never bought a bench, too expensive and never saw one near the quality I could make. A few tips : Make a pair of legs from a piece of chipboard ( you'd probably call it particle board ) with two pieces of 1.50 x 4 inch timber. The chipboard acts as a very effective brace. Make two of these. After attaching to the worktop, attach another sheet of chipboard to the back. That acts as a cross brace. Finally, fix each leg to the floor with coach bolts. The whole thing is quite light but very rigid being effectively an open fronted box. It would be a very easy item to make as a kit, in whatever size the customer wants, but is there enough demand to make it worth anyone's while ?

[buck1]

I WISH.....
RCBS made swag dies for their RC press.

[JesterGrin_1]

That's a handsome bench in JesterGrin's photo. But I don't like bottom shelves on benches, you just hack your shins on them. A bench like that, using a solid core door as a top, is a piece of cake to make, and cheap. I've never bought a bench, too expensive and never saw one near the quality I could make. A few tips : Make a pair of legs from a piece of chipboard ( you'd probably call it particle board ) with two pieces of 1.50 x 4 inch timber. The chipboard acts as a very effective brace. Make two of these. After attaching to the worktop, attach another sheet of chipboard to the back. That acts as a cross brace. Finally, fix each leg to the floor with coach bolts. The whole thing is quite light but very rigid being effectively an open fronted box. It would be a very easy item to make as a kit, in whatever size the customer wants, but is there enough demand to make it worth anyone's while ?

Thank You. But I keep stuff in the drawers that I do not use all that much. So they are never in the way. Most everything I need is in the roll around shelves on the ends and the little ones on top of the bench. I guess I need a new Photo as there is more stuff on it now lol. I can feel the SUCK lol.

[JIMinPHX]

wish someone would make an adapter so i could use rcbs/lyman sizers in my stars.

I thought that someone did that...buckshot?...Lathesmith?

If not, can you post a drawing of the star die?

[JIMinPHX]

an inexpensive way to reload 410 shotgun.

I know I can't be the only one that has a kid with a 410, that will likely "trade up" in a year or two.

I just can't justify the expense of buying the full MEC setup for a shotgun that's "temporary"


would something like this work for you?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=20002&page=3

[Buckshot]

I thought that someone did that...buckshot?...Lathesmith?

If not, can you post a drawing of the star die?

............Jim, I don't have a drawing with dimensions but here's a photo of a die I made:

http://www.fototime.com/0BC9ECC796F51F9/standard.jpg

The problem with making an adaptor to use Lyman/RCBS dies in the Star is how close they are in OD to the Star. In the photo the die is upside down. You're looking at the bottom. The flange is the largest in size at .875" OD, and is what rests against the press casting.

The really important parts are those 2 shoulders which are seperated by that reduced area. The shoulders are .750" OD and are a critical dimension as they form the seal in the press housing. Now, keeping that .750" dimension in mind, the Lyman dies are .720" OD at the top where the 'O' ring is, and then reduce to .700" to the taper seal at the bottom.

All else aside, and disregarding the Star dies' reduced area (where they have the lube passage holes) you have the two .750" shoulders which to stick a Lyman die into would only be a MAX of .025" thick. That's about the thickness of 6 sheets of 20# typing paper. There's a couple other problems too, but that adapter wall thickness (or thinness) is rather problematic in itself.

...............Buckshot

[JIMinPHX]

you have the two .750" shoulders which to stick a Lyman die into would only be a MAX of .025" thick. That's about the thickness of 6 sheets of 20# typing paper. There's a couple other problems too, but that adapter wall thickness (or thinness) is rather problematic in itself.

...............Buckshot

An evenly loaded 3/4" tube made out of mild steel that was .025 in wall thickness would have a tensile strength of roughly 2 x Pi x R x W x Tensile Coef = 2(3.141592)(.375)(.025)(60,000) = 3,534 pounds. No?
It might be enough.

[JIMinPHX]

a handheld cutting tool with precision adjustable cutting blades to remove bb or gc shanks from molds, something simple enough for even me to use. thinking it could be set up like a micrometer that as you dial it up, the blades reach out just a tad more each time.

this is not quite what you asked for, but it may be a start. It's only good for 1 size, in this case .311 diameter, but it should be fairly quick & easy to use & it should give fairly good results. Don't get me wrong. I still believe that gas check shank removal should be done on a Bridgeport, but for those guys that don't have a machine shop handy, this might be an option that beats trying to center up a pair of blocks under a drill press.

[JIMinPHX]

Here's how it works -

Step 1
C-clamp the blocks together, mount the jig around the blocks & center it up on the mold cavity by using the cone shaped piece.

Step 2
Tighten the knobs on the thread rods. Remove the cone shaped piece. Replace it with the tool steel drill bushing, & tighten the bushing in place with the set screw.

Step 3,
Insert the .311" diameter drill bit in the drill bushing with the depth stop collar set to the proper position & have at it. Use plenty of oil & don't be too aggressive.

If you would like to try it, let me know & I'll send it out to you.

[GetBulletsandBrass]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

Take a look for a brand called 2x4 Basics, they make a work bench kit which you cut your supports to your desired length and add a table top. I've had mine for about 8 years now and its been modified a few times when I had to move. Handy kit, I recommend them to anyone who wants a sturdy workbench.

[Artful]

How about an adaptor to use RCBS/Lyman top punch in Star lubesizer?

[deltaenterprizes]

better yet use zinc ww .

that way you can savethe good ww and dont waste good ww.

The US government is already doing it and calling them pennies!

[Skipper488]

Field goal kickers practice kicks on the sideline using a frame that supports netting. Has anyone thought of putting a smaller mesh net in a light weight, collapsible, portable frame? That should collect brass from an auto loader.
Regards,
Tony

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=942827

Problem is most of my semi-autos throw the brass straight up in the air.

[wallenba]

A go,no-go gage plate for checking slugs, so that five groove barrels can be accurately measured. It should have all the usual milsurp calibers bracketed and for the Smiths too.

[Artful]

A go,no-go gage plate for checking slugs, so that five groove barrels can be accurately measured. It should have all the usual milsurp calibers bracketed and for the Smiths too.

I used to have V-Block that was used with a mic to measure the odd grooved slugs. Explaination in one of Brownell's Kinky Gunsmith books I think.

here's what I found on internet.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/rifle-bore-measurement-5-lands-grooves-126449/


The V-anvil micrometer is the best way but it is an expensive and specialized tool that most people won't want to pay for, especially to measure only a few slugs. A way to simulate one is to make a small V-block of the appropriate included angle (108° for five grooves), calibrate it with an accurate diameter pin, and then measure the bullet and V-block with an ordinary micrometer. Then do the math given below.

The math goes like this:
Let a = the included angle of the V-block,
t = the thickness of the V-block from the bottom of the V to the bottom,
h = the measured height of the bullet and V-block,
and d = the diameter of the bullet.

Then d = 2(h - t)/(1 + 1/sin (a/2) )

An example:
For a 5 groove bullet, the included angle (a) is 108°, assume the V-block "thickness" (t) is .250" and the measured total height (h) is .5854", then
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1/sin (108/2))
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1/sin 54)
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1/.80901)
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1.23607)
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (2.23607)
d = 2(.3354)/(2.23607)
d = .6708/2.23607
d = .300

The easiest way to determine the V-block thickness (t) is to measure a known cylinder and then calculate it from

t = h - (d/2) (1+1/sin(a/2) )

With typical groove depths, you should be able to measure both land and groove diameters if the slug isn't too long.

Note: this process will work with a 90° V-block (using 90° for the included angle) and a 5 groove slug for groove diameter if you are careful to position the slug with the large diameters on the slopes of the V. You won't be able to measure the small diameter though.

[Linstrum]

Not "V" Blocks for measuring 5 land and groove rifling, but for a quickie portable loading bench I take to the range that folds up in the back of my station wagon I use a 24" tall wooden step stool with the metal strap scissor braces on each side. I have my Lee Challenger press and powder measure bolted down on each side with 1/4" through bolts with nuts (NO LAG SCREWS that pull out!!!) and there is enough room between the two tools to set my powder balance to calibrate the powder measure or some cigar boxes to hold brass and boolits. The two steps can be used for holding more stuff, too.


rl908

[NVScouter]

How about a LEE style boolit sizer but longer and ported. Then add a heating element with a grease gun style pressurized lube cylinder. I'm very tempted to try and do this myself.

[shdwlkr]

Somebody was looking for a left hand laddle here is one
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=286579

[.243 okie]

Perhaps this would be considered cheating but a timing device so that the exact same amount of alloy is poured from bottom pour type melters. Kinda like a coffee machine dispenses a metered amount of water. Adjustable, of course.

Now add a track for your mold to ride in, make it actuate via mold insertion...

Just slide the mold in, lead is dispensed. Release, repeat.

[Skipper488]

Somebody was looking for a left hand laddle here is one
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=286579

I got that one even though I'm right handed. My son is left handed, now that it's all coated with lead I'll have to see if I can get the little knurled knob out and switch it for him.

[doubledown]

A hand held bullet check seater.

[catmandu]

I wish somebody made nice thick sprue plates for Magma Mastercaster moulds.

Also milled down 5/16 stock that would fit other brand moulds (Lyman, RCBS, ) slots
and adapt to Magma Mastercaster slots.

Good Shooting,

Paul in WNY

[catmandu]

A Star Luber/Sizer extension tube so more lube could be used.
With the air conversion a tube with the correct thread on each end
is all that would be needed.

Paul in WNY

[44 WCF]

I'm not very good at correct terms, but I would like a board or material sheet 1/2 or 3/4 thick wood or plastic with holes about same a peg board sized to Lyman and RCBS nose punch stems, with magnet in bottom so you can tip up without spilling and room and place for label for number of nose punch. All in a box or whateve with hinged lid, about 6 or 8" square or decent size.

[44 WCF]

We have slip together PVC frame 3/4" x 78 " high, x48" square. We drive 24" 1/2" rebar into ground 8-12 inches, on 48" square, then slip frame over the rebar. We have net that fits over the fram with front open, and back just hangs. and little piece of velcro to hold back door closed. Net on ground up side a bit, we loose very little brass and just pick up net on floor and pour brass into bucket. We've tried exotic pouches on the side of the frame that also work.

[Omnivore]

How about a LEE style boolit sizer but longer and ported. Then add a heating element with a grease gun style pressurized lube cylinder. I'm very tempted to try and do this myself.

That's called a Star sizer, but it comes with its own press frame, is all. :bigsmyl2:

[Omnivore]

I'd like to have this, but it would cost a bundle;
A progressive case prep center. Die stations to anneal (electric induction), cool and lube, size, trim, chamfer and deburr, flair if needed. Heck; give me a progressive loading press with 11 or 12 stations, some of them powered. Clean the brass in a mass finishing system, then go straight to loading. What the hell; give me an optical internal case inspection die too, similar to those sewer pipe cameras.

I saw a recent Youtube video of a guy demonstrating the new Hornady case prep center. I timed him doing ten cases, and then figured it would take eight hours at that rate to prep 1,000 cases. These progressive presses that claim this or that rate of loading never count the hours of prep time required before you can start "loading".

You kids and your fancy shmancy metal cartridges. It'll never catch on, I tell ya.

[mjr350]

RCBS or Lyman to make more sizes in their lube sizing die range.

How many times do you read that someone needs a .316 for 303 British. Me included

[sffar]

I'd like to see a set of plates for a vice, or a handheld clamp, designed to hold molds together, or the halves separately, with flat and concave ended screw/punch to move mold pins in and out precisely and reliably. For careful pin fitting and adjustment.
Sam

[normg]

I started molding my own bullets a couple of years ago. I did not like how the spru cut looked although it was acceptable. I made this little fixture, and it works so good I thought I would share it. If you use a gas check it insures it is sitting on a flat surface. This probably is not a new idea, but here goes. I cut two blocks of wood out of hard wood. The one block I drilled a hole the size of the bullet. It was tight enough so it would not wiggle, but loose enough so I could push it out with my finger.I cut a slot for the file so the upper block would slid easy over the file. The finger pressure determines how much you cut. Slide the upper block over the file until you are satisified.Here are two pictures.http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/173454e63c1352a91c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2031)

[Moonman]

I have a 6' "Constitution" reloading bench from Americanworkbench.com in Charleston, SC. John Zirpola makes a nice product in many styles and functions. Mine looks just like the photo in Post #24. I'm sure he would listen to suggestions or your needs.

[tding]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=942827

Problem is most of my semi-autos throw the brass straight up in the air.

How about something like this?35645

[SSGOldfart]

Ok,, we have lot's of talented hands and minds here and I am after ideas for stuff that maybe you think someone should make.
[smilie=s:

Foot control for reloading press. I've only got one hand and it's impossiable to hold a bullet over a case and pull the handle with the same hand
I also trying to come up with a vise to hold a hot mould while I knock the sprue plates open on the mould:castmine::violin::violin::violin:so I can cast with one hand

[SSGOldfart]

Humm any Ideals?????????????

[Chicken Thief]

So Oldfart what type of moulds do you use?
A quick brainfart says something about lengthening the sprueplate and make a holder that will grip either that or the mould. So you hold the mould handles and twist with the sprueplate held or place the mould in a holder and twist the spruehandle by hand.

As for the press some sort of modification of the linkage so the motion for full travel will be reduced to 45-50 degrees. Then a "handle" pointing downwards that functions in the same way as a (hanging) clutch pedal.

If you are completly lost i can do some doodeling

[SSGOldfart]

okay a little doodeling might help,I'm working on a vise mounted block to hold the mold after pouring hot lead so I can use the right hand to swing a mallet to open the sprue plate,then I can just dump the boolits and start again,I'm going to find a way.

[Box13]

How about making a fitting that slips over the spru plate knocker section and clamping it into the vice.Then when you ready slip the spru plate into the fitting and cut the spru with the mold handles as a lever.As if the fitting was a gloved hand....Robin

[SSGOldfart]

yep thats what I'm working on,I started with a small guide rail under the pot then over to the vise with wood blocks to hold the hot mould.,I may have to chang up to a master casters it's one hand opertaion.

[Casting Timmy]

Could you use this one handed for casting? You might have to scroll down the page a little to see the spring laoded mold handles.

http://www.castingstuff.com/cabinetree_loading_products.htm

The other solution could be getting a master caster, you can get other 2 cavity molds converted to use with it. I think the master caster would be a large initial investment, but you would have something off the shelf.

[Chicken Thief]

Mould opening:
A tube flattened in the end
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/R0010616.jpg


Insert sprue plate and twist
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/R0010617.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/R0010618.jpg

Here's the "pedal" for the press (obvislly a mock up!)
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/R0010619.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/R0010620.jpg

[DRNurse1]

Hey Dave, I'm already marking the brass, but being lazy I was looking to eliminate the 'hunt' so as to have more quality time at the range. I have a plastic catcher for my 1911 made by E & L Mfg. Riddle Or. (541) 874-2137 that works well, but only fits 1911's without the ambidextrous safety, and it's the only one that fits a handgun, (1911's only). The problem with it is that there is just a very small gap between the catcher and the slide to sight through.:roll:
I use a net to catch my brass at the firing line and have an attachment which fits under my grip for work off the line. The grip catcher does not allow proper holstering but it shoots fine. Those wire frames for the political adverts hold a mesh laundry bag for the bench version. I have seen a lot of stands for them but dropping the wire through a PVC pipe end cap (drilled for the wire) works easily and you can add shot or lead to the pipe fro a stand.

[DRNurse1]

wish someone would make an adapter so i could use rcbs/lyman sizers in my stars.
Check with Chris Smith at redgreen@cooldude.com. He made top punches for me with great turn around time and excellent quality. He can probably machine one with a hole and a hex screw to hold your Lyman/ RCBS top punches. But you still need the sizer die for the star.

[DRNurse1]

That is called an adjustable reamer, the problem is getting it perfectly centered.






there is a post showing a member removing gas check shank with a drill bit a drill press vise and a drill press, go figure!
Have you tried chucking it in your lathe to achieve center?

[wymanwinn]

I would shoot my auto's more if someone made a good functional brass catcher that would attach, say to the bottom of a magazine, or clip to the forearm. I truly hate picking up brass, especially at a public range with everyone stepping on them and getting them mixed up. I like MY brass back cause I know their history.

how about one of these...

http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1310

pretty slick brass "picker upper"

ww

[Linstrum]

Hey, wymanwinn, that looks pretty slick for developed public ranges! One of the problems some of us have is we don't shoot at a range with paving or hard ground. The place I go is in the boonies, so out in the weeds and loose dirt a brass catcher that works integrally with the firearm is the only way to recover brass. Finding just one case in brown grass is a problem without a metal detector!

rl 1088

[RoGrrr]

wymanwinn
I have one of those brass buddies but after I get about 20 9mm shells in it, I lose as many as I'm trying to pick up. The wire is simply too thin and I'm going to try build one with wire about .010 thicker.

[dilly]

A good way to store dies with Hornady LNL bushings on them. I have a ton of empty die boxes because they won't fit in there.

[country gent]

In bulleye pistol matches they have a free standing brass catcher that works pretty good. I have made several. Sits on the bench beside my hand accross from ejection port and catches brass with out being attached to the gun or me.Look at Champions Choice or possibly wilsons. Set up right mine will catch 99% of my brass normally.

[ironhat]

Every time I see the price for a heater for the Lubrasizer (I'm only talking Lyman here - no trials on RCBS) I about have a fit. I have a plan for us all. Find a clothing iron - yea, what's that - buy new at Ollie's or Big Lot's for about $10 or so. Now, get a piece of flat aluminum plate about 1/8" thick or a little thinner (it's not critical - even thicker won't hurt) that will fit completely under the Lubrasizer and the iron too, right behind the sizer. You will be limited to the width between the sizer's mounting bolts but, more is better and I have chosen to drill through the aluminum to get a little more width and more room for the iron to transfer heat. The iron doesn't even have to breathe hard to transfer its heat to the sizer. Total invested: $10 for the iron. All else was scavenged. Good luck!
Later,
Chiz

[22nutt]

now that is slick

[3jimbo3]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

I built one in my shop, it is 2 feet wide and 4 feet long. the frame is 2x4 and the top is particle board(for the time being, I am making a new top out of ash). My bench has a back(peg board) with a shelf on top, under the shelf I have mounted a twin bulb fluorescent light. In the back I mounted a power strip with 6 outlets. The top is recessed into the frame and I added a shelf on the bottom. I used premium wood glue and pocket holed all the joints. All in all, when I got finished I had a bench that can be a part of the furnishings of my home. Here is mine, and yes that Hank Jr. watching over my stuff. My casting bench is still out in the shed where it is gonna stay.

The total cost.....$47.00
The total time....about 3 hours(give or take)

I bought most everything on clearance at Lowes or Home Depot. Also if you have any Habitat for Humanity stores in your area, you can help them fund the charity by buying from them. If you can take your time and shop around you can find a lot of good deals.

[orbitalair]

How about a LEE style boolit sizer but longer and ported. Then add a heating element with a grease gun style pressurized lube cylinder. I'm very tempted to try and do this myself.

You mean like this only cheaper and more widely available?
http://www.meachamrifles.com/page.php?id=73

I would like to see someone simplify this fellows design, and hopefully make it cheaper.

However, in the meantime, I think tumble lubing and lee sizing will work for me.

[3jimbo3]

...good casting ladles that didn't cost an arm and leg...

I built a ladle from a scrap piece of 2 1/2 inch pipe. I used an old bottle top from an oxygen bottle, cut out the top and welded to it. Used a piece of tubing to make the handle. I have about $3 in it plus my time....30 minutes. It holds about 2 pounds of melt, works really nice.

[MaryB]

How about something like this, laser cut holder for Lee turrets

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd248/maryalanab/2013-05-26_21-58-19_324_zps617b4852.jpg


A good way to store dies with Hornady LNL bushings on them. I have a ton of empty die boxes because they won't fit in there.

[Randy C]

:coffeecom
I am still finding out what I need and what is not available (which I have to fabricate). The biggest lack of something that I have seen so far is money. So, I wish somebody made..................... a money mold to cast money from WWs.

+ 1

[MaryB]

Final version of the turret holder

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd248/maryalanab/2013-07-10_19-54-28_468_zps369453ce.jpg

[WaltMacon]

I saw a guy last week at the range who had a stand with a rectangular net at the top. It was about 12" tall by 18" wide. He was shooting several hand guns and catching all his brass in the net. I looked like the net was fairly fine mesh made from cotton (I *** u me). I've been thinking along those lines ever since

[graphic914]

that looks great.

ALL my brass have red sharpie ring for easy locating

[trying2learn]

As for the lyman heater. I had a recommendation to get a silicon heater made for engines. You can get them at auto parts stores or amazon and silicon it on the side. Cost about 6 bucks at the time. I think its around 9 now for the smaller one. Which is what I used. Works great, I am debating putting a dial on it to adjust the heat up and down but for now I just plug it in ans let it set for about 10 minutes and I unplug it till the lube stiffens up and that's about a 30 minute window. Or wait around 20 and plug it in and no stopping ti re heat. Its a little learning curve to it. But it works really well for what I spent on it

[trying2learn]

Left hand spout type cast iron ladle.

Not sure if this is answered later on and didn't want to forget to answer it. I was reading back through the thread so forfive me if it is answered. But my lyman is a universal one. It can have the handle threaded in either side to make it right or left handed.

[tonyjones]

I wish somebody made.............a simple, affordable, rugged, reliable, easy-to-use nose first/straight through lube-sizer. Something in the price range of a 4500 or LAM 2 would be nice. It would be great if it accepted existing dies. I do not need 2,000/hour production. I do not need a heated base although some would. Air feed/pressurization of the lube reservoir would be nice but not an absolute necessity.

I'll take three!

Regards,

Tony

[Fidolonglegs]

I like slow heavy loads, and really like when the bullet is heavy enough to make it a subsonic round even with maximum powder charge (powder charge is for me often limited by space left concidering the size of the heavy projectile).

So I'm looking for a hollow-point 9mm mold, 150 grains (or heavier, as long as the result is a shell which is subsonic at maximum powder load). Preferablu gas checked.

Has anyone sen something like this, or a manufacturer who makes custom HP molds?

ot: I'm completely novice to casting, I'm looking to casting because I want to shoot more on a limited budget. Gun is a 9mm Glock 17 with aftermarket barrel for lead projectiles. I like that gun because I'm trained to use it (Swedish Royal Cavalry, Pistol 88). //ot

[jmorris]

How about just using 147's?

[Fidolonglegs]

How about just using 147's?

Assuming that's a response to my post about heavy 9mm hp molds, haven't found any manufacturer making 147 grain hp-molds either, at least none that export to europe. I'd really appreciate if you'd post links to such a page if you know of one.

Sincerely yours.

[Garyshome]

Reloading bench= 2 x 4's + 3/4" plywood + long screws+ drill+saw+time!

[jmorris]

Assuming that's a response to my post about heavy 9mm hp molds, haven't found any manufacturer making 147 grain hp-molds either, at least none that export to europe. I'd really appreciate if you'd post links to such a page if you know of one.



I don't know much about exporting but you could get a 158g 38 rn mold and have these guys convert it to HP, they would be dropping very close to 150g after that.

http://www.hollowpointmold.com/cramer-style-molds/

[Socal147]

A device to remove all liars from government would be nice. LOL

[georgerkahn]

One of the handiest tools in my collection is the small primer pocket cleaner called the Croc-o-gator. Made by Dewey, it takes a quick short twist of this wonderful tool to remove dust and the like from primer pockets of reloaded brass. (Sinclair and similar carbide pocket cutters work best for 1st time; but imho nothing comes close to the Croc-o-gator for subsequent reloading)

Jere's the big "but" -- if doing more than 50-60 cases, it does tenderize the fingers.

Hence, and adapet/collet chuck to go om a cordless screwdriver to hold a Croc-o-gator would be an awesome "I wish they made it" product. I'd probably buy two of em ;).

FYI, Sinclair purveys it at: http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/case-preparation/primer-pocket-tools/cleaners/dewey-crocogator-primer-pocket-cleaner-prod32935.aspx

Best!
geo

[gunoil]

One die that would seat totally first and then crimp for s pistol. No shaving that way.

Edit: l did find below hornaday seat taper crimp die, l think it will do copper plated 9mm but will it do hi-tek stained/cooked lead boolits?
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps0ac2e396.jpg

[andremajic]

One die that would seat totally first and then crimp for s pistol. No shaving that way.

Most people just buy a second seating die and use it for exactly that reason. Lee sells crimp dies, and they're not expensive.

[Mechanicalmayham]

I have submitted a few ideas to MTM and RCBS but no response from either for 2 years. So I will post up here. Please let me know if these have popped up before but I was thinking a Southpaw dipper (friend has a hard time casting using the right handed dipper), I also thought that it would be nice to have a die holder for the common RCBS die box size (other boxes of similar size Pac Tool, Lyman, Hornady)that I could screw to the wall or side of the bench and each die box slid into a shelf like area. Make them in various sizes so one could hold 1 wide and 4 high all the way to 3-4 wide by 5-6 high. It would also be super cool if someone was to develop a standardized rail system so I could change presses and trimmers and all just by sliding in a 12"x12" block. I was thinking of one that was inset and flush with the surface of the bench so as not to impede its surface area.

[dbosman]

Mechanicalmayham
All your wishes have been granted to other people.
The Lyman lead dipper is double sided. There is a threaded "receiver" on both sides.

One or two of the members here make rail systems for mounting presses and accessories. Pat Marlin makes the RockDock http://www.patmarlins.com/

Years back, Wiley Clapp described his new loading bench. It was three layers of 3/4" cabinet grade (no voids) plywood laminated with paper between the layers to create just enough room for slide in blocks. The middle layer was cut an inch wider than the top layer. The blocks were double layers, without the paper shim. Here is one adaptation of it. http://www.rifleshootermag.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_benchs_022607/

This one uses clamping rails
http://ultimatereloader.com/2011/03/27/the-new-reloading-bench-system-at-ultimate-reloader/

Lee makes a bench plate system that isn't flush, but it is affordable.

[shanep]

Do they make something. Other than drill an universal jaw to polish bullets if so what an where im interested in that.

[Littleton Shot Maker]

'wish some one would make, dual chamber, 220 volt, 1000 watt elements - 3 per-melt and 2 pour side , bottom pour, digital controlled , lead pot that not $800

[Littleton Shot Maker]

dead thread??
Already making friends, and killing threads.

[Lead]

I'll second that

[gpidaho]

I wish Lee sold a kit for there collet neck size dies of mandrels -1 +1,2,3,4 So they could be used like Redding bushing dies in reverse. GP

[Boosted98gsx]

A mold preheating oven. I know it's easy to "make" one, but I like nice looking stuff on my workbench. Call me OCD.

[jimbull34]

organized desk, work bench, is the sign of a sick mind!!!!! An

[hunter74]

I wish somebody made a complete automatic setup for the Star sizer so I didn't have to pull the handle myself. Electronic or air motor is not a concern if it works. The thought of pushing a button instead of using serious elbow grease is very tempting.

If anyone of the mechanics in here started to produce a kit like this for the star I'm sure they would get many orders.

[Garyshome]

Lee made a .403 size die.

[DanWalker]

How about kits to automate an RCBS pot? While I'm wishing, it should also have conversion dies and sprue plates to allow LEE molds and Iron molds from major manufacturers to be used. Price it under 2 grand so that the serious home caster could afford it. 11 Grand for an automated Magma is just WAAAAAY out of most peoples price range.

[benellinut]

Mechanicalmayham
All your wishes have been granted to other people.
The Lyman lead dipper is double sided. There is a threaded "receiver" on both sides.

One or two of the members here make rail systems for mounting presses and accessories. Pat Marlin makes the RockDock http://www.patmarlins.com/

Years back, Wiley Clapp described his new loading bench. It was three layers of 3/4" cabinet grade (no voids) plywood laminated with paper between the layers to create just enough room for slide in blocks. The middle layer was cut an inch wider than the top layer. The blocks were double layers, without the paper shim. Here is one adaptation of it. http://www.rifleshootermag.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_benchs_022607/

This one uses clamping rails
http://ultimatereloader.com/2011/03/27/the-new-reloading-bench-system-at-ultimate-reloader/

Lee makes a bench plate system that isn't flush, but it is affordable.

I have each one of my presses bolted to 3/4 oak slabs for mounting plates, the oak slabs then gets bolted to the top of bench. I drilled three holes in through each of the slabs and on the bench all with the same bolt pattern. I then inserted these claw furniture nuts in the holes drilled of the bench from the underside.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51PspoPED5L._SL500_SR100,100_.jpg
A bolt with a large thick washer is used to draw and seat them into the wood. Now the bench has threaded holes, pick a press to use, align the holes in the mounting block with the bench, drop in three bolts, tighten and your ready to go.

To store the presses not in use, I glued and screwed another board using 3/4 spacers under the front edge of the bench, off to the side and out of the way. This gives me an opening of 3/4 inch at the front edge of the bench to slip the mounting slabs into, just slide the board the press is mounted on into the slot and it holds it out of the way until I need it again.

[mongoose33]

I have each one of my presses bolted to 3/4 oak slabs for mounting plates, the oak slabs then gets bolted to the top of bench. I drilled three holes in through each of the slabs and on the bench all with the same bolt pattern. I then inserted these claw furniture nuts in the holes drilled of the bench from the underside.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51PspoPED5L._SL500_SR100,100_.jpg
A bolt with a large thick washer is used to draw and seat them into the wood. Now the bench has threaded holes, pick a press to use, align the holes in the mounting block with the bench, drop in three bolts, tighten and your ready to go.

To store the presses not in use, I glued and screwed another board using 3/4 spacers under the front edge of the bench, off to the side and out of the way. This gives me an opening of 3/4 inch at the front edge of the bench to slip the mounting slabs into, just slide the board the press is mounted on into the slot and it holds it out of the way until I need it again.

Pictures or it didn't happen! :)

Seriously, I can see the bolting to the bench--I like that idea a lot, I'm chewing on that for my own setup--but I'm having trouble visualizing how you're storing the presses when not in use. Can you post a pic of that? And while you're at it, you might as well show a press mounted to your bench. :)

[benellinut]

Pictures or it didn't happen! :)

Seriously, I can see the bolting to the bench--I like that idea a lot, I'm chewing on that for my own setup--but I'm having trouble visualizing how you're storing the presses when not in use. Can you post a pic of that? And while you're at it, you might as well show a press mounted to your bench. :)

I'll have to get my camera back, loaned it out. But maybe I can explain better, if you attach two blocks of wood under the front edge of your bench that are 3/4" thick by 2"x 2" square, attach them few feet apart from each other. Then under those two blocks, you attach piece of wood a few feet long to those blocks, you end up with a 3/4" gap between the underside of the bench and the long piece of wood.

The slabs the presses are mounted on extend beyond the back of the press by about 6 inches. That 3/4" gap under the bench is where I slip the slab's the presses are mounted to and the weight of the press holds it in place.

Something like this.

-------------------------------------- <-- Underside of bench
[ ]<-------------3/4" gap inside here------------>[ ] <-- 3/4" blocks
-------------------------------------- <-- Long piece of wood attached to the blocks

If I still didn't make it clear let me know and I'll get some pics posted when I get my camera back.

[Tiziano52]

Hi!
I apologize if I do not know English, but this is the crucible that I made.
greetings Tiziano



137160137161137162
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iKZxW0kxzM

[scb]

Looks good.

[jroc]

Tiziano thats nice. Welcome. jroc

[Czech_too]

Tiziano,
First off, Welcome.
A two hole/spout pot! How cool is that?
Do you have the option of closing one off if need be?

Brian

[Tiziano52]

Tiziano,
First off, Welcome.
A two hole/spout pot! How cool is that?
Do you have the option of closing one off if need be?

Brian
Ciao Brian!
Yes is possible with e screw down.
Sorry but i dont speake english.

Ciao Tiziano

[benellinut]

Maybe you can order the orifice plate from Magma and make it fit a pot, see the video on this page http://www.magmaengineering.com/masterpot/

[blikseme300]

The best additions for my CB hobby has been the purchase and learning to use of a mini lathe and mini mill. These allowed me to fabricate or modify tooling which enhanced my CB casting and reloading to a satisfying level. So much for saving money reloading but the satisfaction is priceless. Crafting solutions to reloading challenges takes things to a new level, IMHO.

[Went2kck]

where is the mess at?

[JSnover]

A mold preheating oven. I know it's easy to "make" one, but I like nice looking stuff on my workbench. Call me OCD. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-bench-top-powder-coating-oven.html?fee=7&fep=5682&adpos=1o4&creative=61491485700&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&SRCCODE=GA220010&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4LaqBRD60pfSn43ZwLQBEiQAJv5FLHvUN5E7 Mhri2yHJ-zAp-T00DRQ_8MHRj15vLrybI7kaAikt8P8HAQ
$100.00
Made for powder coating but you could park a handful of molds in there.
Personally, I would remove the glass from a small convection oven, replace it with a sheet of steel with a hole in it so the wood handles don't get charred. One of these days...

[mold maker]

I have a short thumb, and a stiff index, that is numb. I need a bottom piece to use the LEE collator and four tubes to manualy present one piece of brass, oriented the same way every time.

[PbHurler]

Micrometer adjustable sizing dies.
.354" ~ 360", .429" ~ 432" etc.

[hunter74]

A bullet feeder for the Star that does not cost a pile of money!

[RaymondMillbrae]

I wish someone would make a 7/8oz shotgun slug mold...that was accurate, and on par with the Lyman 525-grain sabot slug.

The Forster and Lee Key slugs are OK...but can be hit or miss.

Being a multigunner, a low-recoil, accurate slug, would be great.

In Christ: Raymond

[Huvius]

I wish the press manufacturers would include a bolt boss in the casting base that an adjustable stanchon could be bolted to, that reached the floor to transfer the downward force to the floor instead of fatiguing the edge of the workbench.


GREAT idea!
That could be done using a plate under the press with a leg going down to the floor.
Getting it around the ram will have to be worked out.
I NEED to make one of these myself. My top is pretty stout so far but I have to clamp my table to the wall to keep it from wobbling.

[CASTING MACHINE]

An ambi or reversible master caster.

[hunter74]

An automation kit for the Mark-X

[Gtrubicon]

I wish someone could make a brass magnet

[benellinut]

I wish someone could make a brass magnet

Here ya go!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0MqEWW3L8c

[Daddyojoe1]

I wish photobucket would cease to suck.

[Walks]

Back 38yrs ago when I bought my 1st house, I bought a work bench kit 30" X 60" from a now long defunct Hardward/lumberyard chain. The top was made of 2" X 6" pine boards. I knew that edge wouldn't hold up to neck-sizing a .22Hornet. So I bought a 4' X 8' sheet of 1/4" MASONITE. Had the Lumberyard cut/rip to give me 2 sheets 30" X 60" to match the press top. Then I GLUED/SCREWED(1 3/4 woodscrews) to the top of that bench. I've had a ROCKCHUCKER mounted on one end for 38yrs. Had a HORNADY progressive on the other for 25yrs. Anything else goes on the other bench with double 3/4" plywood top GLUED/SCREWED with MASONITE sandwiched in between & on the bottom.
Use "T-NUTS" to fasten anything I need to that one. Shotgun presses, Lube-Sizers.

[TexasGrunt]

Real working PTX parts for the Hornady LnL AP.

[Scoutino]

If you open the front end of standard full metal jacket bullet as you described, there is danger of blowing the core out of jacket, leaving the jacket stuck in your barrel. Next shot would be not very pleasant experience. Can't recommend.

[Scoutino]

I would like to have a rifle die set up like a case trimming die but longer, set up so that you could insert a loaded round and and adjust the die to change a pointed bullet to flat with a file. This way better hunting profiles could be created and bullets could also be made more appropriate for lever actions.
If you open the front end of standard FMJ bullet with jacket already open at bottom, as you described, there is danger of blowing the core out of jacket, leaving the jacket stuck in your barrel. The next shot would be not very pleasant experience. Can't recommend. :shock:

[Mr_Sheesh]

Filing the nose down some on Spitzer full jacketed bullet would be OK though; Just not an open base one.

Once I move I'll have a 3d printer going, and get the laser engraver / cutter back, I have a few projects in mind for those :) (Got both free, I was willed the 3d printer from a good friend - Though I'd FAR rather still have the friend around! And the cutter off CraigsList. I'll have to put the cutter out in the garage with a fume hood or something. At least I know how to DIY a fume hood.)

I wish somebody made a machine that would organize my loading supplies and fetch what I want for me - A Cherry 2000 would do I s'pose :P

[Mytmousemalibu]

I would LOVE a S&W airweight J-Frame, 6 shot chambered in .327 Fed Mag. I know the LCR exists like that but im a J-Frame guy.

[pwc]

Go to your favorite outdoor store and get the biggest fishnet, for landing a fish, they have. The mesh may be too big, but if you remove it and replace it with a 1/2 pillow case it will work. Then fix something, coat hanger maybe, to the top inside the pillow case to hold it open; only has to be enough to stop the trajectory of the case and let it fall down into the pillow case / catcher. You could also use nylon window screen. A little thought, and you can figure out the best way to make a take down stand (PVC?). Maybe a sand bag across the base legs...... Position it where it will catch the ejected cases......

[lightman]

I wish someone made a replacement cutter for the original Lee case gauge trimmer made of carbide.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Could the existing cutter be casenited or something? Not a machinist here.

[RoGrrr]

Here ya go!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0MqEWW3L8c

I have a nut wihiz and while it works (almost) well, and the idea is great, they "cheaped out" on it, using wire that is too thin. Mine will only hold about a dozen before the cases start to go out as fast as they go in.

They should have used wire about .010 thicker.

[elysianfield]

Run,
I have made three different sizers from the Lee carbide sets...the sizers are externally machinable, so just turn them down to the Star dimension, thread them and go to work...I forget the TPI, but it is easily doable.

This post is in response to someone earlier wanting an adapter for the Star reloader to use Lee carbide resizers.

[Seabee1960]

I have in my possession a copy of the 1992 Precision Shooting Annual Volume 2. On page 23 of this book there is a picture of an older gentleman shooting a Winchester High wall, prone, using a neat device called a " Gebby Chuck Rest" It looks like a vertical rod or tube with an short adjustable arm horizontally fixed . I am guessing at the attachment scheme but I think there is some sort of tension arrangement holds the arm to the vertical member thus allowing an infinite amount of vertical adjustment up to the top of the rod, say 24". I can't tell about the base. Either feet or sharp stake, it is hard to tell from the picture. Has anyone ever seen one and if so where can I get one?

[robert12345]

A bent spoon works good as a ladle.
Wear leather face cloth back gloves.
.
Pick the spoon in the right size, bend it to shape with plyers.
.
Wood handle(?), maybe, glue it on with high temp silicone.....
.
.
Dig the wheel weight clips out of yur pot, with a cow magnet.

[EnglishTom]

Something I made a while ago now was length spacers for my case trimmer, I set the cutter to my shortest case then made up spacers to fit the shaft, now all I have to do is change the spacer and pilot to suit the case im trimming, spacers are stamped 308, 303, 243 and so on,,, don't have to keep resetting the trimmer now

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Wouldnt be hard to do if you had a lathe and mill. You could even probably get away with making them from aluminum. I think I have a few from RCBS that I never use lol.

[Mr_Sheesh]

EnglishTom, nice idea; Are these cylinders or half cylinders or ???

[EnglishTom]

Hi Sheesh, Neither mate, they are large brass washers, when I want to change case length I unscrew the cutter slip it out of the base pop on the washer to suit and away you go,,,,,,, oh im using a lyman trimmer

[Mr_Sheesh]

Well, that counts as cylinders in what I meant. tho I wasn't all that clear there LOL I was just curious if you had to unscrew the cutter or if you could snap the spacers on without disassembly. TY :)

[EnglishTom]

I did try split plastic spacers but I found the plastic wore badly if I used a power drive. As a few of my cals fall within limits that are close to each other some spacers were wearing out in a couple uses, I guess I could have worked on clip ons but its not worth all the work when popping on a washer is so easy and quick to do.

Tom

[BrassMagnet]

Here's something I saw some reloaders doing to help ID their brass (commercial or reloads)...

While still in a packaging tray, give the backsides a light wipe (removes excess lube) and run a Sharpie marker (multiple folks shooting the same caliper/headstamp use different colors) down the centers across the headstamps. The mark the won't affect anything and will allow you to easily ID your brass from rest.

I used to use a black "X" on my .45 acp brass for bullseye pistol matches. I ran into another shooter who also used the black "X" so I took my ammo to the match in red Federal trays and I also took red, green, blue, and black marking pens. A two color "X" took care of it. I have been using some of that match brass for decades and I have no clue how many times it has been reloaded.

I even did OK at it!

221550

It's a Badge!

[benellinut]

I used to use a black "X" on my .45 acp brass for bullseye pistol matches. I ran into another shooter who also used the black "X" so I took my ammo to the match in red Federal trays and I also took red, green, blue, and black marking pens. A two color "X" took care of it. I have been using some of that match brass for decades and I have no clue how many times it has been reloaded.

I even did OK at it!

221550

It's a Badge!

BrassMagnet,
First, Thank You for your service! God Bless.
Be proud of that metal, you earned it! I use to shoot Bullseye, marked my brass with the same black X then I too saw other guys using the same mark so I went with a red line and a blue line to make an X. Bullseye was my passion but then age, increasing spine issues and an accident that took my left leg below the knee forced me out, the matches a memory now, I still miss it. Was just wiping down my 1911 .45 wadgun the other day thinking I should take her out for some plinking. Maybe a day at the range with the 1911, M1 Carbine's, Garand and my Mini-G. :wink: I see you shoot Garand matches too.

Ever heard of or seen the 16 inch barreled Garand called the Mini-G? (It's NOT a Tanker with an 18" barrel) My buddy Shufflin made me one of the first five built to put through it's paces before he went public with them. Still love my Garand but I have to admit I rather plink with the Mini-G, it's just so much fun! Here's some links and videos. http://shuffsparkerizing.com/services/the-mini-g/

More of Shuff's video's here --> https://www.youtube.com/user/ShuffsPrk/videos


https://youtu.be/XlYJacucucQ

[Turkeytracks]

I Wish someone made a Brass magnet

[ericandelaine1975]

I would shoot my auto's more if someone made a good functional brass catcher that would attach, say to the bottom of a magazine, or clip to the forearm. I truly hate picking up brass, especially at a public range with everyone stepping on them and getting them mixed up. I like MY brass back cause I know their history.PVC pipe and mosquito netting. The brass hits and lands right beside you.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[AllanD]

Years ago I took a block of bar steel 1/2"x2" about three inches long drilled and taapped a 1/4"-20thread hole in the bottom canter to mount it to a camera tripod I also drilled 1/2" holes arross 3/4" from either end and took an 12ft length of 1/2" tubing and made a 3ft Square lop and brazes the almost meeting ends into the steel block.

Then I made a big "butterfly net" out of "Noseem" polyester screen (made for tent repair and sold by Campmor)
and made a big bag like net that I set up next to my bench the height is adjustable by Cranking up the tripod or adjusting the leg lengths and it catching the brass can be adjusting the position by moving it next to your shooting bench.

In my case the piece of bar stock and the tubing were both 316L stainless steel because it was the material I had on hand but a block of aluminum and a couple of Adel clamps holding copper or aluminum tube would work just as well

The basic idea is to make a big "butterfly net" that you can attach to a supporting stand next to your shooting bench and catch your brass

[AllanD]

The other thing a FIX to the 20# lee furnace to stop the dripping, I think the stem that forms the valve could be made of Tungsten (Though the threads on the top end might be a problem) or coated with Stellite and "lapped" to the valve seat would fix the problem

[Leftyfixit]

I saw an ladle recently I think it was made by Lyman. You choose which slot you screw the handle in based on left or right hand pour..

[Leftyfixit]

I take a handy grabber with me to the range. I can't bend over so I just use the grabber. Those little suction cups are handy for picking up brass.

[mac1911]

Not sure if mentioned
Plug and play PID controller for my lee pot, thats around $30.
Heater for my lube sizer that can be controlled by said PID

[Rich/WIS]

Sprue plate for NOE molds that uses the Lee sprue cutter handle.

[pcmacd]

Here it is. Sorry for the Mess as I have just set it up the last few days.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/IMAG0045.jpg

Dude. You think THAT'S A MESS????

:-]

[portersandstouts]

I know right, no way am I going to be posting any bench shots anytime soon. Now once I move and get the new workshop finished I will post all kinds of pics. I cant wait to have my own space for everything. :guntootsmiley::guntootsmiley::guntootsmiley::gunt ootsmiley:


Dude. You think THAT'S A MESS????

:-]

[mf79]

for what gun, i made a cloth covered frame that hangs on square steel tube with 2 holes to put 2 bolts thru, I intended to make a rod to mount that on that would connect to picatinny rail or whatever spot on gun I can find

[mf79]

I made one cutting off trimmed brass neck and using it as spacer

[DMatteson]

If you find one please share the link

[SweetMk]

I Wish someone made a Brass magnet

They do make it,, and Home Depot sells it,, if you want to use it at the range, I would guess that you would need to connect it to a cordless vac.
This brass magnet would pick up 5 gallons of brass without stopping,

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dustopper-High-Efficiency-Dust-Separator-12-in-Dia-with-2-5-in-Hose-36-in-Long-HD12/302643445?mtc=SEM-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_14_WET_DRY_VACS-Ridgid-NA-NA-DSA-NA-NA-ShopVacs_DSA&cm_mmc=SEM-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_14_WET_DRY_VACS-Ridgid-NA-NA-DSA-NA-NA-ShopVacs_DSA-71700000074854036-58700006451587238-39700058308401960&gclid=Cj0KCQjwufn8BRCwARIsAKzP6954sJ7Zwz8lWHRSp80M oxXNGSQBuzrHlV9KXxsrLntMEN1BhXdxoG4aApCyEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Watch the one minute video in that link,, you will be picking up the brass fast!!

[William Yanda]

[QUOTE=SciFiJim;606232]I am still finding out what I need and what is not available (which I have to fabricate). The biggest lack of something that I have seen so far is money. So, I wish somebody made..................... a money mold to cast money from WWs.[/Qcheck the garden catalogs for a money bush.tried to add purple font.

[chiefsfan]

Been looking for a 300 gr bullet mold in 457 dia. to be sized for .50 cal in line ML w/sabot.

[bimus]

I would like to see a mini Garand with 8 round mini sized clips in 223

[Physics]

maybe it is already out there, but some adjustable way to chamfer and debur case mouths both at one time.

Bonus points if it fits an RCBS case prep center or Wilson trimmer.

The device you are looking for is a Giraud trimmer. Precision accuracy every single time. Perfect trim, chamfer, and deburr.

[LoneStarTx]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.An alternative that works for me: Lee tripod press stand. Very stable and comes with template for adding side platforms. Plastic bins can attach on both sides of press and lower shelf can provide mount locations for quick attach storage of presses/bench tools. I have a small sturdy table alongside for powder scale and die and component storage. This setup takes little space and if need be easy to relocate.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Mmacro]

Affordable Lee-style mold handles... I can't find any that don't cost an arm or a leg, or are not ridiculously priced by some person trying profit enough to buy a new house.

[Mwilson0173]

I just wish they still made replacement parts for lee 3 hole press

[Mwilson0173]

Parts to older lee presses would be killer so you didn't have to buy a full used press just for 1 part and hope its good

[kend]

Been looking for a 300 gr bullet mold in 457 dia. to be sized for .50 cal in line ML w/sabot.

Even though you're a Chiefs fan here goes....
Accuratemolds.com, he'll make anything you want and they're some of the best molds you'll ever use. Guaranteed. From a Bucs fan.... :razz:

[centurion350]

Over the years of my reloading experience there have been multiple items that I wished were manufactured for the hand loader. When I cannot find an available product for sale, I will start and build my own prototypes. One of the products I have built is a bullet packager for the flip-top ammo boxes. I load for multiple different calibers & 500 to 1000 rounds at a time. So, my bullet packager must be able to work with all calibers and be easy to change between the calibers. For this prototype, I started with my proof of concept of an old cookie sheet with a hole cut in the center and a flip-top box taped to the bottom of the cookie sheet. I then began to tap the sheet on the reloading bench until the reloaded ammo fell properly into the flip-top box. This worked well enough that I built a spring-loaded box with an oscillating motor. I still use this homemade product every time I reload.

[SciFiJim]

Over the years of my reloading experience there have been multiple items that I wished were manufactured for the hand loader. When I cannot find an available product for sale, I will start and build my own prototypes. One of the products I have built is a bullet packager for the flip-top ammo boxes. I load for multiple different calibers & 500 to 1000 rounds at a time. So, my bullet packager must be able to work with all calibers and be easy to change between the calibers. For this prototype, I started with my proof of concept of an old cookie sheet with a hole cut in the center and a flip-top box taped to the bottom of the cookie sheet. I then began to tap the sheet on the reloading bench until the reloaded ammo fell properly into the flip-top box. This worked well enough that I built a spring-loaded box with an oscillating motor. I still use this homemade product every time I reload.

Is there a way to insure that they fall in nose first, or do they have to be guided by hand?

[centurion350]

The bullets will go naturally go in nose first. I do have the ability to vary the volatility of the motor which can assist in getting the bullets into their associated squares within the flip top box. The vibration of the bullets can be great enough for them to be knocked out of their associated square. Even though the box only holds 100 bullets it's better to have more loaded the packager. The bullet packager was built level so helping the bullets downstream just speeds up the process. this packager can put the 100 rounds in their space in about 15 to 20 seconds. This just means I don't have to individually load bullets into the flip-top boxes. Many manufacturers use the same type of technique just on a larger scale to load their boxes. I have never seen a packager for flip-top boxes. Wolf ammunition has a good video on how they do theirs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C_0e9v3fkg

[pcmacd]

A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.

I've seen some impressive butcher block units about the right size at Costco before.

Just over $115, but it's been a while.

[45_Colt]

I would like to see a mini Garand with 8 round mini sized clips in 223

5 or 10 round magazines, called the Mini-14. Closer to the M14/M1A then the Garand. But I see where you are coming from.

45_Colt

[catmandu]

Replacement screw on cap for my Impact hammer used to deconstruct ammo with issues.
I buy another hammer but would like another cap so I could use them both.
Pauk

[pcmacd]

Replacement screw on cap for my Impact hammer used to deconstruct ammo with issues.
I buy another hammer but would like another cap so I could use them both.
Pauk
If it is an RCBS, they will likely replace the cap for free. Don't bother with email you have to call. Sometimes I have to call a bunch of times but if you get through they'll probably send you one.