303 savage, again

[6.5 mike]

Well here we go again. Took my 303 sav to the range yesterday. & still no joy. Only shot 10 rds of patched, but didn't seem to help the barrel any. I can't tell if the barrel
still has a build up of junk in it or what I'm seeing is the barrel itself.
Boolits all hit the target straight so that's a step in the right direction. Might try wrapping the boolits a little farther toward the nose next. I had 1/2 wrapped these to try. I did see some coneffti so rifling are catching on the paper.
On a good note, my m91 remmy shot very well with a 1/2 wraped load. I'm using these to littlely polish the bore. Rifle has a 31" bbl & the crazy russian calibrated rear sight, went from 1 1/2" right & 4 1/2" high , with bottom load jwords, to 1" right & almost on for elevaton with 16 grs 2400 & cci 200 in graf cases. I'll try naked 185's & mule snot next time. This was at 50 yards. All in all not a bad day.

[docone31]

You might try a dab of valve lapping compound on your Savage.
Sure helped my rifle. In fact, it made all the difference in the world.
Just a dab.
If the groups tighten up with, your patches are a little loose in the bore yet.
That is how I found my size.

[303Guy]

I am convinced of the fire-lapping even though I have never done a before and after test. I have taken a rusty and dirty 303 Brit and cleaned out all the rust and crud to reveal sharp and well formed rifling. The owner reports that it now shoots accurately. This is how I did it;

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-548F.jpg

The three grooves that were covered by the neck were filled with valve lapping paste. The idea was to not get grit into the chamber and to force the grit into the corners. It seemed to work. I haven't tried grit on paper patches - yet.

[6.5 mike]

Docone 31, I'll give the lapping thing a try next time I wrap some. Just need to get the lengh right on the boolit. All I've got is 400 grit so guess that will have to do.
303 Guy, are the front bands a scrapper ? You do come up with some odd looking things, but if they work I guess thats all that counts. Did your bbl look like it had caked on powder or lead in it ? That's what mine looks like, steel wool wrapped on a bore brush, chore boy on a brush, solvent, nothing wants to break this up. I do have some pull down .311 jwords from 7.62x54 rounds I could try, & hope this breaks through the crud. Hell I've even though about pouring ammonia in it. Figure if I could ever get the crud started loose, I could peel it out. Knew this was going to be a long term project, but didn't figure this long.

[docone31]

The length is 1 3/16". The width is 3/4 of the casting plus the tail. I cut my strips 1" and wrap em. Two wraps should give .317-.318. I size this down to .314 for my .303 British.

[6.5 mike]

What I meant was how far toward the nose of the boolit. I had only covered just past the crimp groove on the last ones. I wasn't sure if I would damage them when I chambered the rounds, so made the wraps short. Now I know I can go farther out & not tear the patches. I'll make up another dummy round & see how far up I can go until the paper catches the rifleings then back off just a bit. Have to single feed these now, so more lengh won't really hurt anything. I'd rather try your way on the patch instead of rolling the boolits, norma cases are to high to mess up.

[docone31]

I usually go 1/2 way between nose, and crimp groove. I have not found an advantage fo going further.

[runfiverun]

seems you would wan the paper to engage the rifling on the nose too unless it engages the rifling.

[303Guy]

... are the front bands a scraper ?The front band is a bore guide. The step down is to save weight. The fat lump thing was an error. Then come the rifling engaging bands, the first a little smaller. The last three are over groove diam. The three grooves get filled with grit. The boolit is then seated with the three grit grooves in the case neck. That thing removes all the rust between the lands. A j-word won't do it, nor will ammonia. Just go with the paper and lapping compound - that should get into the grooves as well. It's just that the brass one does the job in one hit.

Oh, you could try brake-fluid. Degrease the bore with what ever it takes then soak with brake-fluid for several hours if not days. That will soften the rust. It softens paint work also! It'll probably damage the stock coating.

[6.5 mike]

docone 31, 1/2 way up should work just fine as this one has a large chamber. I'll give that a try when I load the next batch.
runfiverrun, I've been short wrapping mine with good results up tell now. This one's bbl has been driving me nuts trying to clean it. This paper patch thing is new to me, & I've got so much to learn.
303 guy, not to worry, I always strip the action & remove the stocks if I'm going to do any major bbl soaking. I've refinished to many stocks that idiots didn't take the time to think through & just started dumping cleaner down the bore. Plus this one was made in 1913 & has the orignal wood.

[docone31]

If you want to really scrub the wood, remove all the oil, and cosmoline, and stuff, try Easy Off!.
I use it on my wood, and the stamps remain. Sodium Hydroxyline is neutral to wood. It does not raise feathers either. I do this before any stock refinishing.

[303Guy]

6.5 mike
I'm like a kid. I am excited to see you having success with your rifle! Having been made in 1913 with the orignal wood makes it all the more exciting.:drinks:

[6.5 mike]

docone 31, already know the easy off trick. Don't need it on this one, still has the orignal finsh.
303 guy, if you like this one check the barrel works thread. I got another yesterday made in 1916 with orignal woood but has been reblued & stocks refinished. Only this one has a good bbl, & ya it's another 303.
I don't always log in when I come to the site, but I ALWAYS check this forum to see whats going on. Evertime I do I learn from you, padawg, docone 31, & all the others that post here. Makes my day to see whats been happening, & your pic's.

[303Guy]

... if you like this one check the barrel works thread.I need help here. I tried but couldn't find the "barrel works thread".

I love the skills these good folks have. (And of course I envy them too, but I would never admit it! :roll: Actually, I secretly admire them.:mrgreen: Hey, while I am onto disclosing secrets, I have a thing for the 6.5 Swede, too - only I don't have one - pity!)

[6.5 mike]

303 guy, go to the gunsmithing tips & tricks & clik on "sub forum-the barrel works".
BTW, you need to find a swede, doesn't matter which bullet, they are great shooters not that I'm bias or anything( I have 4).