New LEE molds

[oldhickory]

After 2 months of waiting I received 2 of 4 LEE molds I had ordered in April. BOTH are defective! The first one I tried to use, the sprue plate was screwed on so tight it wouldn't move and no phillips driver bit I own would budge the screw. The second one appeared fine on casual inspection, however when casting the front cavity left a generous "skirt" of lead under the plate attached to the boolit and the rear cavity never filled out all the way. Bent plate?

I called LEE and they said to return the molds directly to them for replacement. They were nice, but I waited 2 months and now I'm out almost another $11.00 shipping! Are they hiring illegal mexicans to assemble these things?

[462]

Part of my Leementing procedure is to install a set screw against the sprue plate screw. It seems as if the screw has been torqued by the "tighten it till it startes to smoke, then back it out half a turn" method. A #2 Phillips works. The excessive tightness probably has something to do with the temperature differential between the steel screw and the aluminum mould.

[oldhickory]

Part of my Leementing procedure is to install a set screw against the sprue plate screw. It seems as if the screw has been torqued by the "tighten it till it startes to smoke, then back it out half a turn" method. A #2 Phillips works. The excessive tightness probably has something to do with the temperature differential between the steel screw and the aluminum mould.

I had the first one in a padded vice and leaned on the screw driver, to no avail. They must have had the torque turned way up when they seated the screw!

[SilverBow]

I had the first one in a padded vice and leaned on the screw driver, to no avail. They must have had the torque turned way up when they seated the screw!

I recently took the sprue plate off of my first Lee DC mould and it was quite a challenge. I initially tried holding the handles while I torqued the screwdriver, but to no avail. I then read that the handle/pins can sometimes bind against the sprue plate screw, so I then placed the blocks into a padded vice (as you did). I had to try 4 different phillips screwdrivers until I found one that fit perfectly and wouldn't back out under all the pressure. Double hands on the handle finally moved the sprue plate screw and it came out easily once broken loose.

I think Lee must drill/tap the hole rather shallow and then cut the remaining threads with the screw itself (the screw has a relief cut into it for self-tapping).

I took the sprue plate off in order to polish the top of the blocks and the bottom of the plate. I'm glad I got it off because the screw had been so heavily torqued against the sprue plate bushing that the aluminum was gouged/burred quite badly around the hole.

Good luck with your moulds,
Stirling

[hoosierlogger]

Of the two that I have, one of the pins that hold the mold block on to the handles had a habbit of walking out of the hole. All I had to do was re peen the hole to prevent the pin from making an escape and the mold block from hitting the floor. other than that, that is the only problems I have had with them.

[Ben]

Why Lee won't put their sprue screws in like a Lyman Mold and have a locking screw on the side is an unknow to me.

This is a MAJOR flaw in design with Lee, I know this one issue has cost them thousands of $$$ in returned molds and additional expense of shipping for them and the customer alike.

Seems they are totally unwilling to make a change.

I'd think that the change might add 50 cents to the price of one of their molds.

???????

Ben

[briang]

I had the same problem with the screw, I used a torch to heat the mold and the screw was still rather tight but came out. The aluminum will expand more than the steel screw will, which will make the screw looser. I believe this is why they are put in so tight.

[hiram]

When heated, aluminum expands more than steel. If you heat the mold, the aluminum will expand more than the steel screw. The screw will not be grabbed so tightly. Place in vice while hot and then try to unscrew the sprue plate screw.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Probably the best thing to do with a new mould is to examine it carefully, deburr, drill & tap for a setscrew for the sprue plate, enlarge the sprue plate pouring hole carefully as you think, lap the plate, and check the exterior also. You plan to make lots of bullets with it, right.

Personally, I just clamp the vice grips on the sprueplate screw and it turns out easily and I keep a supply of short 8-32 round head screws on hand, as I see what is coming before I even order. There is a lot of value in the Lee mould if you prepare it correctly. BvT

[fj3fury]

Posted this before in another topic. Last Lee mold I got was the 38 wadcutter mold. The sprue cutter was warped and the bottom of the mold was unfinished. I borrowed a cutter from a seldom used mold and got it half way working. The rejection rate was one in three though. I canceled a backorder for some 45 round nose molds around the same time. First bad mold I ever got from Lee.

[dromia]

Lee moulds are really mould kits that you need fininsh off before they work as advertised.

Some times you can come across a real beaut that works as advertised, but in my experience thats rare.

Their quality control has always been variable, such is the nature of Lee.

You can't deny they have a character all of their own.:-D

[Chaplain Curley]

Dear Friends ; I am brand new to casting boolits. I have read a lot of horror stories about Lee molds. I have placed an order for 2 of their molds, a 158 swc and a 158 rf flat point in .38 special, as my wife and I are die hard .357 revolver shooters, and I am a Marlin carbine .357 lever gun lover. Could someone please step by step explain to me how to prep these molds for first time use? I also ordered a Lee Pro pot IV. I have been preping wheel weights and collecting lead from all over the place. I have welded up my own ingot molds out of scrap, and have rendered just over 200 lbs of ingots ready to be cast into boolits. My neighbors have given us presses, and dies to get us started into casting and reloading. I am hooked!!! Thanks in advance. Terry AKA Chaplain Curley.

[oldhickory]

Dear Friends ; I am brand new to casting boolits. I have read a lot of horror stories about Lee molds. I have placed an order for 2 of their molds, a 158 swc and a 158 rf flat point in .38 special, as my wife and I are die hard .357 revolver shooters, and I am a Marlin carbine .357 lever gun lover. Could someone please step by step explain to me how to prep these molds for first time use? I also ordered a Lee Pro pot IV. I have been preping wheel weights and collecting lead from all over the place. I have welded up my own ingot molds out of scrap, and have rendered just over 200 lbs of ingots ready to be cast into boolits. My neighbors have given us presses, and dies to get us started into casting and reloading. I am hooked!!! Thanks in advance. Terry AKA Chaplain Curley.

Welcome to castboolits Curley!

First of all, don't let this thread scare you. I have probably a dozen LEE molds that were fine and usable right out of the box, there can be improvements made to them, and a certain amount of preperation is needed for ANY mold. One member suggested LEE molds are a "kit" that requires finishing and gave some methods for improving them, I agree, but I've used them right out of the box and cast good boolits.

The 2 molds I sent back should have never passed quality control. LEE does stand behind their products and are pretty good people to deal with. In all reality, I like LEE products and use quite a few of them, not because of price, but by choice.


The degree of prep depends on what you want to put into the mold, at the very least you need to degrease it and inspect it for flaws. Make sure the sprue plate swings with just a little effort and fits properly against the mold, smoke or use a release spray, (I use the stuff MIDWAY USA sells, a lite coat will do it) and pre-heat the mold on the edge of the pot. Hang out here and you'll pick up some good tips, (Buckshot's a good guy to ask and listen to). I've been casting since 1971 and picked up quite a few things just by reading the posts here.

Good luck Curley!

[725]

Just got a new Lee mould and as some many others, the sprue plate was too tight to swing properly and I'll adjust that soon. Cleaned and quick prep'd, 'cause I just wanted to see the first few casts. 10 casts and one of the pins holding the mould to the handle fell out. Easy fix but it was a supprise. Luckily, the mould half fell on my padded casting bullet drop work surface. No damage. Somehow, I never had any trouble with my really old Lee stuff.

[dromia]

Go to Cast Pics here:

http://www.castpics.net/

In the left hand menu click Members Articles

When the page opens then look for:

"Leementing by Buckshot"

and

"Fixing a Lee mould"

Between them you will have chapter and verse on fettling Lee moulds. The actual amount of work depends on the state of the mould you get from Lee

[zuke]

The screw's aren't tapped at all, they drill the right size hole and then screw it it down.
Not sure their self tapper's or just a coarse thread pitch.

[Dennis Eugene]

I'm way to cheap to buy Lee molds. Dennis

[Recluse]

Lee moulds are really mould kits that you need fininsh off before they work as advertised.

Some times you can come across a real beaut that works as advertised, but in my experience thats rare.

Their quality control has always been variable, such is the nature of Lee.

You can't deny they have a character all of their own.:-D

Concerning their moulds, as of late, true.

But I love their boolits. Nobody else makes a microband boolit mould, and my top two shooting boolits from ANY moulds, regardless of manufacturer, are both Lee boolits.

I do some Lee-menting before I even bother to heat the moulds up. Normally takes me about an hour's worth of work. When I'm finished, I have a mould that drops great boolits, hassle-free, will not rust and that is easy to maintain.

Not bad for less than $20 bucks.

As far as the rest of Lee's stuff, their Classic Cast single-stage press is unbeatable. Best buy anywhere in the world for what you get. Their Classic Turret is also superb--I've finally convinced myself to order one. I like Lee dies for the most part, and I like their disc powder measure system for several loads I do--easy, fast, and always 100% consistent.

Equipment manufacturers are in a classic "Damned if they do, Damned if they don't" situation these days. If they don't produce as quickly and inexpensively as possible, they're badmouthed. If they do produce quickly and inexpensively, then when something slips past QC, they're badmouthed.

:coffee:

[dromia]

I've been using lee moulds for longer than I can remember and they have always been variable.

The thing that reall frustrates me about Lee is that I actually think that they are the most innovative handloading maunfacturer out there bar none.

For me I would just want to pay a little more for better QC and better materials in those places where it counts rather than have my heart in my mouth every time I buy a Lee product as to whether its going to work out of the box or not.

I think their ollet dies are fantastic but they need polishing and perhaps a little better metal to metal hardness matching would make them top notch.

The new Classic cast presses are VG but the priming needs some care.

The only piece of their kit which I've bought that has worked out of the box flawlessly is their Pro Auto-Disk powder measure which I think is one of the most accurate fixed rotor powder measures. I'm sure this has to do with it being case activated giving a consistentcy of operation.

I really want my lee stuff to work well but I get more disappointments than first of successes and this is really frustrating.

This why I have more Redding/RCBS green and Hornady red on my benches than Lee red.

[Recluse]

The thing that reall frustrates me about Lee is that I actually think that they are the most innovative handloading maunfacturer out there bar none.

For me I would just want to pay a little more for better QC and better materials





My friend, you just summarized how I feel about Lee in a few precious words.

I love their innovations and designs, and like you, I just wish they'd invest a bit more in better materials.

I've said for years that if Lee would ever make the Pro1000 in a "Classic Cast" style, I'd be happy as can be. I have a (regular) Pro1000, and had it since 1988/1989. I've replaced a few parts on it, but I've also loaded over 100,000 rounds with it. I'd say I got my hundred bucks worth.

I really like the simplistic design and three-station setup for loading some of my basic IPSC and plinking ammo--and I like the price. Of course, better material would add to the price, but it would still be a good market loss-leader into the world of progressive reloaders. Whatever that new one is, Loadmaster is it?, I reckon you couldn't give me one.

The Dillon 550B? Another great press, but I prefer auto-indexing and case-feeders. That's what Lee innovation has done for me. So now I'm looking at a Dillon 650.

I like the Lee hand-primer and like you, I don't think there's a better fixed-powder dispensing system out there than the pro-disk setup. Their Safety Scale is super accurate, but a super PITA to use at times--and, I don't like the cheap powder pan. I'm an RCBS man when it comes to scales.

Dies? I like them all.

And so on.

Hell, if it helps me melt lead, make boolits or goes bang-bang, and isn't a Llama, I'm generally happy. :)

:coffee:

[dromia]

Recluse , look at the Hornady L-n-L AP the same time as you are looking at the 650.

It certainly gives the dillon a run for its money.

It has some innovations of its own and its nice to have a choice. :D

[cajun shooter]

Do a forum search on Lee molds. I paid $65 for one and over $50 in shipping fees sending it back to Lee. They are not worth the trouble!! It's just like the old Fram filter ads. You can pay me now or pay me later. At age 62 I no longer want this kind of frustration in my life. Bought two Hoch molds and they have BEEN MAKING PERFECT BULLETS SINCE DAY ONE!

[TAWILDCATT]

I think that those who complain about lee want everything perfect but dont want to pay for it.if lee cost as much as dillon and was made as well there would be far fewer buy the product.be happey that they are selling as they are saving your a** in the future.the more get into casting and loading the better for all.
lee and all the rest are buried in orders and trying to turn their product out.
as to better material and all the other,better material means slower production and greater wear on tooling.which means higher prices.where can you get a 6 cavity mold for $36,where a two cavity with handles for $18.lyman,RCBS $50 plus $36 for handles.come on quit your bitchin,I have never had a bad mold from lee.
I do a little touching up and go.I have 2 1000 and 2 turrets.I also have a green machine thats better than a dillon.I have herters,rcbs rc,lyman,MB,mec. and others.I dont load 100s of thou.but I load enuf for me and many odd ones.
If you dont like it dont buy it.if you buy dont bitch.makes you look bad.:coffee:[smilie=1:

[Bill*]

Not to get back on the subject, but....McMaster-Carr (and I'm sure other industrial suppliers) sell phillips screwdriver bits with tiny ridges running up each "tooth". I've used 'em and believe me, they dont ever seem to want to "back out" and booger the screw. With one of these in a 1/4" socket you can actually put a ratchet wrench on for torque as long as you keep downward pressure into the screw head. Hope this helps someone.....Bill

[cajun shooter]

It was my money and time and therefore I will do as I have since buying the bad LEE molds. Tell other people about my experience. We live in a free enterprise world and just as I have a business so does LEE. They will have to accept the Bad with the Good. As far as wanting every thing perfect, let me say that if I pay a $100 for a mold that says it will pour 454 bullets then it should. If it does not and pours 449-451 bullets then I have a right to complain. That is why the consumer protection bill was passed by the way, to protect buyers from being ripped off. When I could not receive a satisfactory outcome from Lee, I bought from another maker. The Hoch molds that I bought cost about $233 ea. I was happy to pay it as I received molds that drop bullets at 455 which is what I requested. The cost was not a factor when I bought the Lee mold. It was the design That I wanted. I'm happy that you have had good luck with them. ( I do have a few Lee molds that work) My money my purchase to be handled by me!!

[TAWILDCATT]

cajun: it sure is your money and if you want to spend it you make it but some of us have not got a lot to spend.so we do with what we have.if your satisfied thats all that counts.me I have all brands and they seem to work well for me I have a mould I got in 1937 a win and its still like new.:coffee:[smilie=1: