Mold fixer

[jcw1970]

I have some molds that are giving me problems. I have sought advice here and with my limited skills have tried to fix the problems but still haven't fixed anything. Is there anyone I can send them to here who has considerable more skills than I do to fix them?

[sundog]

What kind of molds, and what problems.

[hornsurgeon]

i personally have a couple of lee 2 cavity molds that i have tried to lap the cavities to get the boolits to drop and have yet to make them drop. i also have one each 2 cavity lee 45/70 hp and hb molds that are the same way. now i also have a lyman 462 mold from our group buy that won't drop that i am hesitant to work on. i might be interested in having someone with more experience here laping these for me.

[jcw1970]

All my molds are Lyman or RCBS. I getting fins on a couple of molds.

[e15cap]

Close the mold and hold it up to the sun or a bright light. If you can see light, something is holding it open. Check the faces for lead smears, or whatever and try to remove them with a sharp lead pencil. If that dont get it you will have to use a new sharp razor blade. Lay it flat and them pick it up at the back till just the cutting edge touches and try to remove it. Check that there are no burrs around the pin hole or the edge of the cavity, lay a fine jewelers file flat on the block and with the tip of your finger push it across the block to remove burrs. Then make sure your pins are not out too far. That ought to get er done.
Best, Roger
PS - For smaller bullets, use the dipper about 1/4 full as too much lead weight and pressur will force it into the vent line and under the sprue plate.

[Wayne Smith]

To answer your question, PM Buckshot. He's one of the guys who does this work. Has worked on several for me.

[masscaster]

I fix moulds,and have for 25 + years. If they are iron they're probably salvageable. I do not work on Aluminum Moulds!
I'd be happy to help. If you pay shipping each way. I don't need handles to work on them, so you'd keep yours, unless you want to in order to keep them on at all times after. The handles can sometimes cause problems as well. If you can get me close up pics of the cavities we may be able to remedy the problems via e-mail. Let me know jcw.
e15cap,
I have several old ball moulds that light can be seen thru, and they drop fin/seam free balls all day, although this is true in some cases it dosen't hold true all the time. A hot mould may not show light, but when cold it may. Only way to really tell is to use it, unless of course you could park a small van in it, lol.

[WHITETAIL]

masscaster is 100% right!:redneck:

[montana_charlie]

Advice for hornsurgeon and jcw1970...
Pack up your moulds and send them to masscaster.

I don't know the guy from Adam, but if he says he can fix them, he probably can.

If you guys can't discover and correct your problems after reading all of the 'fix actions' found on this forum, you really need the help of somebody with the knack.

This is not meant as a put-down. Everybody is good at something...and some people cannot do certain jobs, even though they are great at others. That's just the way it is.

CM

[Springfield]

Maybe if you posted your casting procedure we might see some errors and fix it right here. Most mould problems are due to not doing what the mould likes, not an actual physical problem. I have some moulds that just won't drop until they get to the temp they like, and then they are perfect.

[Buckshot]

..............Sometimes it's the things we're doing. Say you have a nicely fluid alloy (high tin) and you're pressure casting you might get wonderously beautifull sideways whiskers in the vent lines of some moulds. Drop the mould down away from the nozzle. If that helps but you still get some whiskers also try reducing the alloy flow or cast a bit slower (more time to cool between pours), or just don't use so much dad blamed tin! :-)

...............Buckshot

[montana_charlie]

Say you have a nicely fluid alloy (high tin) and you're pressure casting you might get wonderously beautifull sideways whiskers in the vent lines of some moulds.
I considered that exact scenario, Buckshot, but the author said 'fins'.
Whiskers tell you the alloy is too 'wet', too hot, or too pressurized. But fins say the blocks don't close.

CM