Fireforming cases in a BP gun?

[Wayne Smith]

I've got 9.5x47 cases that I need to form up to 10.5x47 and from a sholder to a gentle curve. The cases as they are fit in my chamber.

This is a gun made prior to April 1, 1892 in Stettin, Germany, and thus almost certainly a BP only gun. What should I use to fire form these cases and stay in safe parameters. I have no 9.5mm projectile, but don't suppose I need one.

It is the top break combination gun.

[AkMike]

I would double check the base and rim measurements then IF the only thing is the shoulder and neck I'd put 10 gr of bullseye in then top it off the Cream of Wheat or corn meal.Then touch her off. You might need to do this several times to get it right.
I'm working on a 450 #1 Carbine round now.
Isn't playing with the old oddballs fun! :razz: :razz:

[Buckshot]

...............I'd just fill the case with 2Fg BP, settle it then thumb in a hunk of canning parrafin and shoost her off.

................Buckshot

PS: Got your case and boolits t'other day.

[Wayne Smith]

Yeah, I thought of the wax 'bullet' yesterday driving up to Lynchburg to see my oldest son, who is at Liberty University Seminary working on his MDiv. I thought I could soften beeswax, but I can melt candle wax and pour it to about 1/2" thickness and use the cases to cut out a 'bullet'. I've got 40 cases to do. Is soap and water and a brass brush adequate to clean? I've never cleaned wax out of a rifle. May need to use ammonia, just like you do on a floor?

[StanDahl]

If centering the case is a concern, say if the neck is small enough that it will sit off center or settle to the bottom, you can give the neck a slight flare and that will help keep it straight. I had some .43 Spanish brass that were obviously not expanding evenly and I had to fireform 3 times (with bullets) and rotate the brass to make it work properly. Stan

[Wayne Smith]

Thanks, Stan. This is on the Mauser 11.1mm (.43) case with that big rim. In a break open gun I don't imagine I'll have that problem.

[Buckshot]

..................Stan brought up what I didn't even think about, but have had personal issues with it a couple times myself. Do think about possibly wrapping some scotch tape around the casehead, and also the the shoulder. If you think you need it, you only need tape 1/4" wide.

http://www.fototime.com/FB833F810B2C0FE/standard.jpg

That's what the label tape is for on these Mag-Tech 32ga shotshells is for. This was for the Brazilian Comblain. Once fireformed tumbling with a bit of paint thinner added removes the labels/tape and the cases will evenly final form next loading.

Ain't this FUN 8)!

................Buckshot

[Dale53]

for the benefit of fellows and gals who have never tried Black Powder for fireforming. BP will almost always do a better job fire forming than smokeless. Generally, one time and it is formed. Sometimes with smokeless it takes several times for complete forming.

FWIW
Dale53

[StanDahl]

If centering the case is a concern, say if the neck is small enough that it will sit off center or settle to the bottom, you can give the neck a slight flare and that will help keep it straight. I had some .43 Spanish brass that were obviously not expanding evenly and I had to fireform 3 times (with bullets) and rotate the brass to make it work properly. Stan

And the rest of the story is that after 3 firings, the cases started to separate. Buffalo Brass stretched .348 Win are pretty thick, especially towards the head. They never did expand all the way in all directions, even with 90 grains of Fg and a 400gr bullet. No sizing was involved, either. Using tape might have been a good idea from the start. A tiny 'give' to the breachblock didn't help. I got some new brass with thicker rims, but lost interest in the project long ago. Stan

BTW - where is "Go Advanced" that was mentioned in the 'emoticon' post?