Glass Bedding a new Rem. Model 7

[Ben]

I friend of mine asked me to glass bed a brand new 7 Rem SA Mag. , Model 7, Rem. rifle.

When I took the rifle apart , I noticed that the rear guard screw is a small ,skiny, small diametered allen head screw . It is nothing like the rear guard screw on a standard Rem. Model 700 rifle.

I use T-scews in my glass bedding on all rifles that I glass bed. I told my friend that I WOULD NOT glass bed the rifle as I had no T-Screws to fit the rifle and the frail, skinny allen head screw would be too easy to stick in the glass bedding process. The whole thing was an invitation for major trouble.

My question / statement is ........the Rem. 700 action is a time proven , excellent performer, why would Rem put something like this on the Rem. Model 7 rifle ? ? ?

Ben

[StarMetal]

Simple....most all the work is and should be done by the front action screw. I don't see any problem of bedding it or having glass sticking the small diameter screw.

Joe

[waksupi]

If it shoots good now, don't bed it.

[swheeler]

Ben; bed the recoil mortise only, you won't have to have any compound around that screw.

[stocker]

Using the T screws is a good way to stress (bend) the action when glass bedding.
If there is any unevenness in the original bedding such as a high spot you will duplicate that spot when you turn the T-screws tight. It is better to use the headless guide screws and set the action to the depth you want with hand pressure. You can secure it all together with a few moderately snug wraps of surgical tubing. Remington actions are not as rigid as many people believe due to the large magazine and ejection ports and relatively thin rail along the ejection port side. Military Mausers with the thumb cut are also quite flexible under screw tension.

[Ben]

Stocker:

I think that you are assuming that I wind up the T screws tight. I DON'T. Some people might that don't know better, catch is......I know better.

I like T- screws because if a little glass tries to " get a bite " on the threads, they are much easier removed than slotted screws.

Ben

[Ben]

swheeler:

You're right, the rifle would have benefited from bedding the recoil lug ONLY.

I think I'll call my friend and discuss that with him.

Thanks,

Ben

[stocker]

Ben: That's O.K. but if you use the headless guide screws you put them in the action before you drop the action into the stock and you won'tget any glass into the action threads at all. You know how it should be done but a lot of people assume they should crank on those try screws you are using which may cause problems.

[waksupi]

If you are going to do it, put scotch tape over the holes in the action. Cut little squares around the holes. Put in the Acragel, and turn in the screws, to a neutral bed. The scotch tape will proceed the screws, and not get bedding into the holes. Once again, if it already shoots good, don't bed it. You can cause more problems, than theoretically cure. I bed several rifles a week, because customers want them that way. Most shoot well before, and it is not incommon for them to return from the range, and need remedial work in various area to get them to shoot well. Lots of pressure tweaking, and relieving, can be required.

[Ben]

Stocker:

That makes sense, thanks for your input on this one.

Best,

Ben

[Char-Gar]

The use of headless guide screws for glass bedding only works where the front and rear action screws are parallel, such as the Mauser and Remington. On the Springfield 03 and 03A3 the front and back screws are not parallel. You will need to use some kind of screw through the bottom trigger guard into the tang.

The use of stockmaker hand screws to glass bed works just fine, if you don't tighten them beyon just slightly snug. After about five minutes, back them off 1/2 turn and let the glass cure.

I like to use small flat head brass screws set into the wood under the receiver ring and tang to support the action and prevent it from sinking too far into the glass. When I have the wood where I want it for a non-glass bed fit, I install the screws flush with the wood. I then turn the screws about two turns below the surface of the wood and relieve the wood down to the screw heads. I then back the screws out to their original position. They will support the action with enough room underneath for the glass.