New Boolit Maker - More Questions??

[larrye44]

I cast my first boolits today. I have read many of the threads on this forum and thought I was pretty much prepared to cast away. Now that I have cast my first boolits, I have more questions than ever.

1. The sprue plate is supposed to be loose so it can swing back and forth, but sometimes I think it is too loose and the base of the boolit seems thicker than it should be. I'm using the RCBS 201 grain SWC for .45 ACP. They say it is a replica of the H&G #68. It has a flat base and sometimes there is a rim on the base. How do I correct this? Also, I have read on the forum about something that a forum member sells (something like a lube I think) that is used on the sprue plate, what is this and how is it used?

2. I cleaned the mold real good before I started casting, but I'm getting a seam on the boolit where the mold halves meet. I try to hold the handles tight to keep the mold halves together but it does not seem to help (and it's killing my hand). What do I need to do about this? I know there is going to be a small seam. I've seen it on cast boolits I have bought from Georgia Arms, but this seam is a little bit bigger than normal.

3. I'm using a new Lee Pro 20 melter and I try to get the temperature low enough to mold without getting the frosting on the boolit. I can't seem to get it lower than 650 degrees before the spout plugs up. If I keep it above 650 degrees, the spout flows okay. Is the frosting just a cosmetic thing or is it an indication of poor casting?

I sure have learned a lot from you guys and can't wait to get a little more experience casting. It is a great hobby and the way things are going it sure makes it more cost effective to shoot. Shoot more, cast more, what could be better. Thanks everyone, Larry

[Bigjohn]

I cast my first boolits today. I have read many of the threads on this forum and thought I was pretty much prepared to cast away. Now that I have cast my first boolits, I have more questions than ever.

1. The sprue plate is supposed to be loose so it can swing back and forth, but sometimes I think it is too loose and the base of the boolit seems thicker than it should be. I'm using the RCBS 201 grain SWC for .45 ACP. They say it is a replica of the H&G #68. It has a flat base and sometimes there is a rim on the base. How do I correct this? Also, I have read on the forum about something that a forum member sells (something like a lube I think) that is used on the sprue plate, what is this and how is it used?

Yes, but not too loose. I have found it to be a bit of trial and error. Basically, you want the plate to move easily but not allow the rim of flashing around the base of the boolit. I was told once that as the mould warms up the plate will become loose(r), I suppose as when heated, metal expands.

2. I cleaned the mold real good before I started casting, but I'm getting a seam on the boolit where the mold halves meet. I try to hold the handles tight to keep the mold halves together but it does not seem to help (and it's killing my hand). What do I need to do about this? I know there is going to be a small seam. I've seen it on cast boolits I have bought from Georgia Arms, but this seam is a little bit bigger than normal.

All my boolits end up with seams. Look into the mould cavities and see if you can see light where the mold halves join. Hold the mould with normal but not excessive pressure as you have been. If there is light, there is a problem; check the join faces of the blocks for burrs or other material. RCBS are normally good with their QC.

3. I'm using a new Lee Pro 20 melter and I try to get the temperature low enough to mold without getting the frosting on the boolit. I can't seem to get it lower than 650 degrees before the spout plugs up. If I keep it above 650 degrees, the spout flows okay. Is the frosting just a cosmetic thing or is it an indication of poor casting?

How are you reading the temp? Number of cavities in the mould?
Keep the temp above 650 and slow down the rate at which you are casting. Frosting does not affect much and is a sign that the metal or mould is too hot.

I sure have learned a lot from you guys and can't wait to get a little more experience casting. It is a great hobby and the way things are going it sure makes it more cost effective to shoot. Shoot more, cast more, what could be better. Thanks everyone, Larry

Larry, If you can post a picture of one of your cast boolits, close up type, showing the seam. We should be able to detremine if it is a problem. There is a sprue plate lube available from one of the members, I use beeswax; very small amounts only and I do means SMALL amounts otherwise it will migrate into the cavities. Just a small scraping on a small flat blade screwdriver and just touch it to the hinge screw.

John

[larrye44]

Thanks, John, here are some pics of my first boolits. One is with the seam, the other is just a sample of what they look like. The second picture you can see the rim on the base of the boolit. I keep tightening the nut on the sprue plate, but after one or two cast it is loose again. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong. I sure appreciate the help. Larry

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/larrye44/BoolitSeam.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/larrye44/BoolitFrost.jpg

[Slow Elk 45/70]

Hullo larrye44, and Welcome.
Well those are some ugly:-( , not bad for starters, looks like you have some problems, I'm sure there are answers, more information from you will help others with the direction you need to go.
1. What alloy are you using, your pic's look like you have a lot of garbage in your melt , inclusions , slag , etc. ????????? Go to the Goatlips thread in Classics & Stickies for more info on starting melting alloy , FLUXING , stirring , casting.
2. I think you are pouring Cold , your alloy needs to be about 720-800*degrees turn up the heat.Don't worry about frosting, it isn't going to be an issue, unless you get really HOT. Do you have a thermometer ??
3. You may have issues with your mold, are the vent lines clear? How does it line up? Any garbage on the faces will keep it from closing properly.
Excess pressure on the handles will only cause more problems, and you will be tired of casting in a hurry.
4. Preheat your mold before starting to cast, or you will get garbage boolits for the first 6-10 drops or until it warms up sufficiently.
5. Bullplate is the lube you refer to : use it on top of the mold under the sprute plate, on the hinge pin and you can use it on the faces of the mold, not in the cavities. It is great stuff, bottom of the page from BullShop.
6. I bet your sprute plate is loose, causing the rim on the base of the boolit, the melt is slopping out of the top of the mold.
7. Take it slow, don't get uptight because you have questions. Make sure you give as much info as you can with your questions so the fellows here can help.

I know you are looking for answers, not more questions, but fill in the blanks and you will get help faster, without a lot of searching and rehashing problems.
Good Luck. [smilie=l:

:redneck::cbpour:

[Bret4207]

I cast my first boolits today. I have read many of the threads on this forum and thought I was pretty much prepared to cast away. Now that I have cast my first boolits, I have more questions than ever.

1. The sprue plate is supposed to be loose so it can swing back and forth, but sometimes I think it is too loose and the base of the boolit seems thicker than it should be. I'm using the RCBS 201 grain SWC for .45 ACP. They say it is a replica of the H&G #68. It has a flat base and sometimes there is a rim on the base. How do I correct this? Also, I have read on the forum about something that a forum member sells (something like a lube I think) that is used on the sprue plate, what is this and how is it used? Each mould is an individual. You have to adjust to what the mould wants. Tighten it a little at a time and see what happens. It may need a bit of lapping too.

2. I cleaned the mold real good before I started casting, but I'm getting a seam on the boolit where the mold halves meet. I try to hold the handles tight to keep the mold halves together but it does not seem to help (and it's killing my hand). What do I need to do about this? I know there is going to be a small seam. I've seen it on cast boolits I have bought from Georgia Arms, but this seam is a little bit bigger than normal.The alignment pins may be standing a bit proud. A light tap with a brass or plastic hammer will drive it back slightly and may solve you problem if you can't find any burr's. I'd suggest running a stone along the edges of the mould face, not in the boolit cavity, to knock back any tiny burr's

3. I'm using a new Lee Pro 20 melter and I try to get the temperature low enough to mold without getting the frosting on the boolit. I can't seem to get it lower than 650 degrees before the spout plugs up. If I keep it above 650 degrees, the spout flows okay. Is the frosting just a cosmetic thing or is it an indication of poor casting?Don't give frosting a second thought. Many moulds seem to need light, uniform frosting for complete fillout. Extreme, heavy frosting can give problems. A uniform light frosting is just what many moulds need to run right. If the appearance bothers you just swipe the loaded rounds with 4/0 steel wool and they'll be nice and shiny.

I sure have learned a lot from you guys and can't wait to get a little more experience casting. It is a great hobby and the way things are going it sure makes it more cost effective to shoot. Shoot more, cast more, what could be better. Thanks everyone, Larry

Welcome Larry. Sounds like you're off to a great start. Don't sweat the small stuff, you're boolits look okay overall. Just need a bit of refining and figuring out whats holding the blocks apart and maybe flux a bit more. Some of the vent lines are showing on the pics, that's usually a sign your mould is a bit warm but not always. The finning on top is the problem, the vent lines I wouldn't worry about much if the rest of boolit looks right. Run your pot at what it needs to work right and vary your casting tempo to control the heat of the mould.

[Wayne Smith]

Thanks, John, here are some pics of my first boolits. One is with the seam, the other is just a sample of what they look like. The second picture you can see the rim on the base of the boolit. I keep tightening the nut on the sprue plate, but after one or two cast it is loose again. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong. I sure appreciate the help. Larry

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/larrye44/BoolitSeam.jpg

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/larrye44/BoolitFrost.jpg

There is a set screw on the side of the mold block. This locks the sprue plate screw once you have established your desired tightness. I don't like mine so loose they move by themselves. I want them to move easily but not that easily.

[larrye44]

Hullo larrye44, and Welcome.
Well those are some ugly:-( , not bad for starters, looks like you have some problems, I'm sure there are answers, more information from you will help others with the direction you need to go.
1. What alloy are you using, your pic's look like you have a lot of garbage in your melt , inclusions , slag , etc. ????????? Go to the Goatlips thread in Classics & Stickies for more info on starting melting alloy , FLUXING , stirring , casting.

I'm sure my alloy is clean. It is WW's and 2% Tin. First I melt the WW's and clean that up real good and flux as instructed. This is then put in ingots. Later when I got the tin, I re-melted and added the tin and fluxed several times and put that in ingots.

2. I think you are pouring Cold , your alloy needs to be about 720-800*degrees turn up the heat.Don't worry about frosting, it isn't going to be an issue, unless you get really HOT. Do you have a thermometer ??

I use a thermometer and I will make sure I take the temp up as you said.

3. You may have issues with your mold, are the vent lines clear? How does it line up? Any garbage on the faces will keep it from closing properly.
Excess pressure on the handles will only cause more problems, and you will be tired of casting in a hurry.

I will clean again and inspect

4. Preheat your mold before starting to cast, or you will get garbage boolits for the first 6-10 drops or until it warms up sufficiently.

I heat the mold by discarding the first bunch of cast until it gets up to temp.

5. Bullplate is the lube you refer to : use it on top of the mold under the sprute plate, on the hinge pin and you can use it on the faces of the mold, not in the cavities. It is great stuff, bottom of the page from BullShop.

Is it just a lube so the plate will move easily?

6. I bet your sprute plate is loose, causing the rim on the base of the boolit, the melt is slopping out of the top of the mold.

I was not aware of the set screw for the hinge screw. That will help.

7. Take it slow, don't get uptight because you have questions. Make sure you give as much info as you can with your questions so the fellows here can help.

I know you are looking for answers, not more questions, but fill in the blanks and you will get help faster, without a lot of searching and rehashing problems.
Good Luck. [smilie=l:

:redneck::cbpour:

Thanks everyone. Already some great advise. Hopefully my answers will give you all more ideas.

[243winxb]

sometimes there is a rim on the base. Tighten the sprue plate.
getting a seam on the boolit Dont hold the mould against the pot. Let alloy free fall into mould.
Is the frosting just a cosmetic thing Mostly cosmetic, but diameter can be smaller. Caused by the high heat in the mould. The higher the temperature the more shrinkage of the bullet on cooling.

[runfiverun]

you are gonna learn how to adjust a mold pretty soon.
look for the seam of light by holding the mold up to a light and with the sprue plate open,and looking into the cavity.
if you see a bit of light [and i bet you do]
your alignment pins need to be knocked back into the mold a bit that will stop the finning you are getting.
with your sprue plate.
if the back cavity is getting the base flash on it you need to loosen the sprue plate just a bit if it's the front one tighten just a bit.
i hold the plate up to the light also and tighten by hand while looking for the light to disappear.
wwhen it does then i swing the plate back and forth and tighten the bolt with a wrench a quarter turn at a time till i feel it just drag.
then start casting with it and make the final adjustments if any are needed.

[larrye44]

Thanks guys, you all have really shined a light on this for me. I cleaned the mold again and did the adjustments. I think I have it now (adjustments). I will cast more today and send pictures if it works out good.

[larrye44]

Well, here they are. It sure makes a difference when you have good advice. I still have a little problem with the vent lines. I may be casting too fast. There is a dent on one of them, but these are only for show and tell.

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/larrye44/BoolitsGoodCast.jpg

[BruceB]

Larry;

Those are beautiful bullets, and I wouldn't change a danged thing from what you're doing now.

Congratulations! Ain't it great fun?

[KYCaster]

Dang, Larry....don't have to tell you but once! Those look great.

I've seen a couple of comments about vent grooves being too big on some new RCBS molds....looks like that may be your problem.

Get the mold a bit hotter for better fill out on the front drive band...but that will also make the whiskers worse.

I'd be tempted to try straight WW without the added tin and a slightly hotter mold. Less tin may keep the whiskers to a minimum.

....or like Bruce said, just keep doing what you're doing. They'll shoot fine.

Jerry

[Bret4207]

Those are fine! Don't worry about the little line, it's okay just as is. Good on you, you're off to a fantastic start.

[bingo]

Larry

I am no expert but I have cast a little bit. Looks like you got most or all of your problems solved. I have some simple advise that has worked for me. I dont bother with preheating molds. Keeping under 800 degree I start ,pour, wait 10-15 sec.,hit srru plate, drop boolit, close mold, repeat. the trick is to get a rythrum. Too slow= no good, too fast= no good.

You will see bad boolits at first(wrinkled) after 10-20 they will srart looking great. Find your speed for each diff. mold. Do not forget to add more pb to pot on a regular basis. Do not wait till it is akmost empty, addind alot will bring down temp.

Lastly, Be prepared for a long casting sesion. Do not be hungry,do not have a full bladder, turn on the fan (ventilation) and cast away, When I start and beauties are droping I get in the zone. Lastly.lastly get comfortable bending over or streaching can get uncomftorable. Organize where everything is in easy reach.

Good luck and do not forget to stash some $ away. the addiction can hit the wallet hard.

bingo

[kbstenberg]

I hope my first ones look that good.

[Bigjohn]

Larry, I shutdown for the night and look what happens; everyone else hops in to help you out. :drinks: They are like that here.

Your second lot of pic's show great progress, I would not worry about the short seepage into the vent lines as that can be scraped of.

It appears to me that the others have covered just about all other issues you may have had.

When using the bottom pour pots, I hold my mould about 1" under the spout. I have had finning and vent line seepage if I held the mould tight to the nozzle. I have also had this happen when using a ladle to pour the metal so I hold off from the hole and pour.

This method also leaves a reasonable sprue for the boolit to draw extra metal from as it cools and allows air to escape the cavity at a faster rate than the ventlines alone.

John

[lurch]

Well, here they are. It sure makes a difference when you have good advice. I still have a little problem with the vent lines. I may be casting too fast. There is a dent on one of them, but these are only for show and tell.

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/larrye44/BoolitsGoodCast.jpg

Is the dent you are referring to on the right hand boolit - just on the front band? I only ask because I have seen bubbles in the casting on the base of the boolit also described as "dents". If you get a "dent" on the flat portion of the base you likely have a bubble. Small ones near the center won't matter a squat for a bullet like this. A bigger one near the periphery might lead to some accuracy and/or leading problems depending on...lot's of things. A quick check to determine if it is a bubble is to poke at it with a straightened out paper clip or other stiff object and see if you can break through into the bubble itself. Sometimes these bubbles will appear on the sides of a boolit, but most always I see them on the base when I get too rambunctious with my pour rate (the rate at which the lead flows in, not the rate at which the boolits drop from the mold). In this case, if it's in the lube groove, I'd shoot it unless it's a big one. On the bands and I'll likely toss it back and try again.

The bullet base we can see looks great as do the rest. It looks like you are well on your way to a lot of fun.

[larrye44]

Thanks everyone for the kind words. And for the encouragement. I don't need to tell you guys, but this is one great forum. And it's a great hobby too. Thanks bingo for the great tip on setting a rhythm, I can see how that would really help. I think the problem with the vent whiskers is too fast casting. Not all of the boolits have the whiskers. KYCaster, I will try to get the mold as hot as possible for fill out, and probably do it by using the rhythm method. Maybe count to 8-10 between casts. I'll experiment with it. BigJohn thanks for the great advice, I'll lower my mold holder. I have it about a 1/4" from the sprue plate now. I'll drop it down to about an inch. Thanks again everyone. Larry

[Buckshot]

..........larrye44, welcome to the board. A question if I might and that is, why are you adding 2% tin? Is it something you heard or read someplace? Let me suggest for your next session casting pistol boolits do everything you're doing now, but leave the extra tin out of the mix. WW alloy isn't what it used to be 30 years ago, thanks to the cost of tin but straight WW alloy should still give you good pistol boolits.

You have nothing to lose except a small bit of time. If it works out you'll also be losing the expense of the tin if you don't need it. If this or some future alloy DOES need tin, add only about 1/2% of tin to your melt and cast a few and see. Also you're not rendering down those wild WW's into domesticated ingots in your casting furnace are you?

...............Buckshot

[243winxb]

From lyman-
Never dip your cool Iron mould into molter bullet metal because the rapid temperature change may cause permanent block warpage. Warm the mold by sitting it next to the pot as it is warming up. Also never cool the blocks by submersing them in water. On the subject of adding tin to the alloy. Mould instructions contain this info-
Antimony should not be used unless 4% tin is present in the mix. The reason for this is that lead and antimony will not remain blended as the mixutre solidifies. A bullet of lead and antimony only will contain pure antimony crystals surrounded by pure lead. While it feels quite hard, it will lead the bore. 2% minimum is what i shoot for. Here is another on tin
While antimony is used to harden the bullet, the mixture of tin is critical, for while antimony mixes with lead in its molten state, it will not remain mixed when it solidifies. If tin were not added, we would have pure antimony crystals surrounded by pure lead. A bullet of this type , while it feels hard , would certainly lead the bore and eliminate all potential for accuracy. In a lead-tin-antimony mixture, the antimony crystals will be present just the same, but they will be imbedded in a lead-tin mixutre. As the bullet cools the tin will form around the antimony-lead keeping your bullets from leading the bore. If your shooting lite target loads at low velocity, less tin might work with the proper lube. After casting for over 30 years, i find this to be true.

[larrye44]

Buckshot, I have a 5 quart cast iron dutch oven over a propane burner that I melt down the WW's in. I guess we all know they are some nasty things. Thanks for the tip about tin. Next batch I'm going to use straight WW's and see how it goes.

243winxb, thanks for the info on warming the mould. I set mine on the pot rim as it warms up then cast until there are no wrinkles. I don't cool it during a session. I slow down my casting if it seems to be getting too hot. I can tell if the lead on the sprue plate is taking longer to solidify.

[Bigjohn]

Buckshot, I have a 5 quart cast iron dutch oven over a propane burner that I melt down the WW's in. I guess we all know they are some nasty things. Thanks for the tip about tin. Next batch I'm going to use straight WW's and see how it goes.

243winxb, thanks for the info on warming the mould. I set mine on the pot rim as it warms up then cast until there are no wrinkles. I don't cool it during a session. I slow down my casting if it seems to be getting too hot. I can tell if the lead on the sprue plate is taking longer to solidify.

Larry, sound like you have it well under control. You are correct, there are some nasty things which need to be cleaned off before we cast with the metal. If at anytime in the process I use too much flux, it would be when cast ingots from raw WW's. Flux and stir, flux and stir.

If you heat your mold that way, just watch out if they are slightly open, I have picked up a bit of rubbish which ended up caught in the join and caused some nose finning.

John