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View Full Version : Star Sizer/Luber Die Removal Techniques



Fugowii
06-01-2009, 10:53 PM
I haven't the die extractor and since I bought this used, I want to see how the
.358 dia die I have in there looks so I can set it up to lube some 148gr WC
heads. The Star manual suggest a wooden rod and hammer it out after taking
out the set screw. Anyone done this?

Another issue is that I have the older recessed head on the punch and so I am
lubing base first. The current instructions are for head first/base up operation
so what I wanted to know was are there any differences in operation the way
I plan to do it? I know the alignment procedure is different but I expect that once
I get the die out I should be able to figure out the alignment.

John D
06-01-2009, 11:10 PM
The wooden rod and hammer will work. If you apply heat with a hair dryer, light bulb etc. it will be easier to tap the die out.

Echo
06-02-2009, 12:55 AM
I lube/size base first. I think that is the best way, even though Magma says do it head first (don't go there!). It means that I need the hollow nose punch, but I have a couple of nose punches that take care of all my pistol boolit needs. And +1 for John D.

Springfield
06-02-2009, 01:09 AM
The extractor is no big deal, the right size bolt and washer will do it.

HeavyMetal
06-02-2009, 01:19 AM
I've found once my heater brings the lube up to temp all I need do is loosen the set screw and use a wooden dowel to push the die up from the base and out the top.

No banging or beating needed! So +1 to John D. idea of a light bulb or hair dryer as the easy way out here!

MtGun44
06-02-2009, 01:47 AM
"Right size bolt" - sounds great but the thread is a total oddball and has to
be lathe cut. This is the thread in the casting that holds the nose/base pin that pushes the
boolit into the sizer. Extremely odd size.

Bill

LAH
06-02-2009, 07:38 AM
i've found once my heater brings the lube up to temp all i need do is loosen the set screw and use a wooden dowel to push the die up from the base and out the top.

No banging or beating needed! So +1 to john d. Idea of a light bulb or hair dryer as the easy way out here!

++1++

Dale53
06-02-2009, 10:17 AM
I would be extremely careful about beating on the Star lube/sizer to get the die out. You could easily break the aluminum body casting. Heating it up with a heat gun (watch and don't overheat) or a hair dryer. It only takes a couple of minutes and then you can easily push the die out with a dowel (AFTER you loosen or remove the set screw that secures the die).

I had a friend with a lathe make me a die extractor. Mt Gun 44 is absolutely correct - the nose punch thread size is definitely off the chart. However, a good lathe operator can make the extractor. You will just find it very hard (or impossible) to cobble something up to work from the hardware store.

Dale53

dragonrider
06-02-2009, 10:21 PM
Thread size is 1/2-27 and threading dies can be had at MacMaster-Carr or MSC.

MT Chambers
06-03-2009, 12:31 PM
My Stars wear Lyman heaters and are the newer type that don't have set screws, just retained by tight fitting o-rings. The dies just push up and out from the bottom when heater is on for awhile, if you don't have enough heat and you force the die up, it may come out but at the expense of one or both of the o-rings, so keep extras, they are ind.#116 o-rings and are cheap. (I don't think mine have retaining screws? Maybe thats why the dies are so hard to get out!)

ddeaton
06-03-2009, 05:04 PM
I lube/size base first. I think that is the best way, even though Magma says do it head first (don't go there!). It means that I need the hollow nose punch, but I have a couple of nose punches that take care of all my pistol boolit needs. And +1 for John D.

What is meant by this statement? All I do is size nose first, what is the problem with this?

Lathesmith, sounds like a new product for you to make and sell, the components for the die extractor.:drinks:

Down South
06-03-2009, 06:18 PM
I think that Lathesmith already builds an extractor, if not he can without problem.

Some folks like to size base first and some nose first. It’s a preference. The star was designed to size nose first but can be used to size base first if the proper punch is used. Someone who is seating gas checks may prefer to size base first. Sizing nose first helps the boolit with the sizer for more concentric alignment.

runfiverun
06-03-2009, 11:22 PM
originally they sized base first.
then figured out the nose first thing which is how i prefer to do it.
even when seating gas checks. that way i push on the gas check then size them onto the base of the boolit not crimp them while trying to seat them.

Springfield
06-04-2009, 12:02 AM
MtGunn; Sorry , I forgot I had all my presses converted to a 2 piece punch design. I just unscrew the punch end, leaving the large end in the press, and screw in another size punch if needed. I no longer need to use the large part of the extraction tool, just the rod with the handle part. Is especially handy if you have a bullet feeder, I never have to re-adjust the bullet feeder arm thingie that goes under the large punch nut.

fredj338
06-04-2009, 01:19 PM
I would think Magam could hook you up w/ a new removal punch/pin set. Other wise, an appropriate bolt & washer as suggested. I have an original Star & it was designed for base first sizing as you ordered nose/top punches for each. bullet. I switched to nose first sizing & use two diff. flat punches; one 0.350" for 9mm-410 & .420 for 430-459. Less distortion of soft bullet bases & better GC fit.

TAWILDCATT
06-04-2009, 01:31 PM
the nose first system eliminates trying to get a punch to fit the many noses.
[smilie=s:

Fugowii
06-04-2009, 05:18 PM
I would like to thank all of you generous people who responded. I am relatively
new to this sight and have been the recipient of a boatload of great info in addition
to one of your wonderful members even sending me some of his boolits to try out.

You make a noob being a lot easier. Thanks very much.

F

jcw1970
06-04-2009, 07:52 PM
I would just get a die removal tool from lathesmith. His cost less and they make it sooo much easier.

Echo
06-06-2009, 08:38 AM
What is meant by this statement? All I do is size nose first, what is the problem with this?

I believe that I get better centering of the boolit by sizing base-first, with the nose of the boolit centered in the cavity of the nose-punch. Using a flat punch relies on just the sizing die itself, and if the boolit is started a little cocked, the flat nose punch will not correct it. I theenk...

weasel 21
06-06-2009, 09:18 AM
This came with my Star