Barrel Temp?

[Jim]

Assuming that a lot of shooting has to be done, what you say is the maximum REASONABLE barrel temp to be sustained?

[captaint]

If the barrel is too hot to hold on to for a second or two, it's time for a break. Heat is actually the creator of wear in barrels, flame, etc. MHO Mike

[Bob Krack]

Assuming that a lot of shooting has to be done, what you say is the maximum REASONABLE barrel temp to be sustained?
Just as captaint says - too hot to hold, give it a rest to cool off.

But then again, if it is a matter of keep shooting or else, keep shooting!

Bob

[runfiverun]

the way it was splained to me is. if you don't wanna put yer johnson on it, it's too hot.

[ronterry]

Shoot it till it glows is my motto!!! Life is to short, and besides that's why they have fore ends!

[nicholst55]

Shoot it till it glows is my motto!!! Life is to short, and besides that's why they have fore ends!

Difficult to do unless you're shooting full auto. And besides, fore ends burn (or melt, depending on construction)!

[GabbyM]

With my varmint rifles it's when heat mirage from the barrel starts causing misses.
With a 243 Win that's after three shots. With a 223 Rem I can get off six or eight shots. This with heavy 26” varmint barrels.

What burns the barrel out depends a lot on the cartridge you're chambered for. I've abused the devil out of my Rem M-700 varmint in 223 and the barrel is still in good shape. Which amazes me. I'll get two trips shooting varmints plus practice out of a 243 Win barrel. So ten days of shooting and about 1200 rounds. 308 Win barrels are long lasting to the point of being famous for it. With cast booits I'd think you'd induce leading from rapid fire enough to make your accuracy go south before you did any barrel burning.

So for me to take a stab at this I'd say if the barrel isn't leading up and you can see your target sit still through a scope you aren't shooting to fast.

[Jim]

Well, I guess I'll have to go shoot 'till it gets to hot to handle, insert a barrel thermometer and get a difinitive answer.

[ronterry]

Jim, I had to resort to the burn cream on a couple occation with my Garand.
Doesn't glow, but enough to give yea a nice 2nd degree when your not thinking, and just grabbing the barrel after finishing a rapid four clip simulation of storming the beach [smilie=1:.
I saw somewhere on the net the actualy duty cycle of auto barrel for the military.
...and it's measured in time not rounds :mrgreen:

[Jim]

Well, what I'm looking for is a general figure in degrees that a barrel should not surpass.

[ronterry]

Should be fine if you air cooled below 450°F... At that it really depends on the metal. But 4140/4150 I think 450° is OK. But it is true you accelerate wear at hotter temps. Take your readings with one of those IR deal right around the chamber area, or just past.
Your going to get a huge Spike following a shot, but it dissipates to rapidly it doesn't cause a changes in the metallurgy properties.
If I can't put my finger on the chamber area for 1 second (Roughly 150-200°), than I let it cool. I only do this to keep my groups consistant.

[Jim]

Now, THAT'S usable information! Thanks, Ron!

[armyrat1970]

Watch your grouping.

[Junior1942]

Now, THAT'S usable information! Thanks, Ron!Here's some more. To cool your barrel, make the rifle vertical and open the bolt. The chimney effect will quickly start sucking cool air into the chamber and on up the bore.

A couple of years ago I combined a 5VDC computer fan with batteries and PVC pipe and made myself a barrel cooling fan. Figured I'd sell them on my web site and get filthy rich. But in order to show my potential customers the efficiency of my little fan, I needed proof of its efficiency.

I bought an IR thermometer and started several days of shooting and taking readings and taking notes. Long story short: the fan was no more efficient in cooling the barrel than leaning the rifle against my bench, muzzle up, and opening the bolt and letting the chimney effect go to work.

[Jim]

Thanks, Jr. Great info!