Pouring distance from spout?

[Nora]

I'm just curious what others are doing with their bottom pour pots. Do you stick the mold directly under the spout, a couple of inched under, or more? Is your mold level or canted? Myself, I hold it about three inched below the spout, slightly tipped to the right then back to level when putting the extra on the sprue plate. I don't really have anything in mind, just something I was thinking about today wile throwing a few from my favorite go to mold.

[geargnasher]

Depends. Sometimes I have to let a stream go into the mould from an inch or so while holding the mould at a slight angle, but usually I have to cram the sprue plate against the spout to form a seal and hold the valve handle up to pressurize the mould for a good 3-5 seconds to get it to fill and then pull down just a bit and put a dollop on top to give the sprue enough weight to break loose from the plate when it is struck. I don't know how anyone can hit that little ol' hole in the sprue from three inches away with a bottom-pour and not meet the Tinsel Faery's little sister Tin Foil!! You must be good!

Gear

[runfiverun]

i am at 3/4" i tilt slightly away from me.
for the 2 and 4 cavs i use a two hole drop from the pot and for the smaller 2 hole and single cav i use a single hole drop.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

There is some controversy on this over the years and no one has come up with a hard and fast rule so opinions vary. When casting with a dipper one normally puts the dipper nozzle in the sprue cutter opening and rotates the blocks with the dipper 90 degrees so that the melt flows into the mold cavity. At the last second some folks disconnect the dipper from the cutter plate to allow extra melt to flow over the top of the plate...affording additional feed to the bullet to allow for shrinkage. Works well with single cavity molds, but with double cavs you have to do it twice. With the type of dipper ressembling a soup ladle ome has to pour from some distance above the sprue cutter. That works well too, but tends to be messy and creates weird sprues. It is an older method used by casters using gang or multicavity molds...the practice involves "feeding uphill": Again some splashing and big sprues,but good results. Enter the bottom feed pot! Allowing some distance between the pot nozzle and the sprue plate one has to make sure that the stream of allow is centered over the pouring hole and that the stream itself is not wider than the diameter of the hole to allow air to escape while the mold is filling. And of course timing is important in relation to moving the mold blocks and controling the valve so that the individual cavity is fed just right while the extra flow for shrinkage is allowed. This method is widely used and is the fastest especially with multicavity molds. Now what happens when the mold is snug up against pouring spout? Some believe and practice effectively that the maximum pressure for the melt is achieved and that this maximizes bullet fillout. I have tried this method and have had difficulty with "spout freezeup" as the mold seems to act as a heatsink and draws heat from the spout. Sometimes the next cavity doesn't get a pour although running a higher temp might solve this prob. The bullet fills out well, but the valve has to be raised and lowered on each cavity and the allowance for the shrinkage puddle is difficult...making the possibility of internal voids in the bullet possible which would effect the weight as well as run the risk of the void being offcenter. Voids are otherwise impossible to detect unless you section the bullet. It is a slower way to cast, but if you can make it work...and some do succeed with this method, then go with it. In an NRA article it was determined that there is a slight variance in bullet weight between bullets poured by the two differing methods as well as a slight variance in sharpness. Aside from the speed factor this leaves us back at the beginning as to what method to decide upon. I can only recommend that you conduct your own investigation and decide which method works best for you. Enjoy casting. LLS

[Bladebu1]

I think you have to find out what works for you
I have really good fill out when I held it up to the nozzel to the spruce plate but It would look like the was a hole o depression in the bottom center of the base of the bullet so know I have backed it off about 1" and I leave some in the spruce plate so there is somthing to come lose ( wieght wise)
just like some pepole like to run hot and some like to ladle it too
just keep trying until your happpy with it
thats what makes it fun

[kbstenberg]

Please exp. your system. You lost me.

[runfiverun]

my magma bottom pour has changeable nozzles i can use either a single hole or a double hole.
i built a little box [covered with metal] to set the mold onto.
my casting table is just above shoulder height so i can see the metal flow.
i tilt my mold slightly away from me so the metal hits the side of the hole and have a fairly slow pour speed.
on my lee 20 lb pot i bent a piece of wire around the bottom support to slow the stream.
on the magma i can adjust the throw rod to change the speed/volumn.
i start at the back of the 4 cavitys and just drag the mold towards to me as it fills,i then sit the mold down on the table or swipe it on a damp rag once the melt changes color [the sprue] if it is running hot.

[rockrat]

My moulds vary with what they like. Some I hold the sprue plate in contact with the nozzle, some I hold about 3/4" below the nozzle and some I hold it against the nozzle and when almost full I pull it away about 1/2". With some moulds, it really doesn't matter what I do and some are particular.

[WHITETAIL]

Been useing a Lyman Mag 20 for years.
So I feel your pain!
The way it works best for me is.
Set my mold gide to 1 inch away from
the spout.
Then lift the handle.
If the sprew is all over the place,
I just adjust the flow a little.:castmine:

[Bret4207]

I'm only just starting to use a BP pot after 30+ years, other than a disastrous experience with a Lee. Speaking strictly from the ladle casters position I know some moulds require a spout to sprue contact method, others needs an air gap and some don't seem to care. My criteria for what they want is a close to perfect bases and 100% fillout as I can get. I suggest you try differing methods to get the best fillout and WRITE DOWN what seems to work best with each alloy and mould.

[skeet1]

I have a Saeco bottom pour that I have had for 35 years. I have used the bottom but have never gotten over using a dipper. For me I seem to get more consistent results with a dipper. I guess it's just my personal preference.

Skeet1

[Echo]

I don't use a ladles. My bottom pour pots do OK as far as I can tell. I use 2-,4-,6-, qnd 10-gang molds - no single cavities. I built up under the spout with scrap lumber so I can rest my mold on that, and pour from about 1 inch below the spout, back (nearest hinge) to front, in a solid stream, leaving a nice sprue. Pull out, wait a few seconds for the sprue to harden, wait a couple of seconds more to make sure the boolits are frozen, break the sprue, dump the boolits, and repeat. While waiting for the sprue to harden, I toss the last sprue back in the pot and inspect the last batch, toss back any that don't pass muster, and roll those that do pass into the 'accepted' pile (on the receiving towel).
If I find the mold getting too hot (sprues breaking when cut, frosty sprues and boolits), I keep a sopping-wet rag in an Al foil tray next to the pot where I can set the mold down for a few seconds worth of steam to cool things down.

[docone31]

I use the bottom pour Lee 20lb pot. It came with a small step for the molds. It took some adjusting to find the sweet spot, but once I did, It works very well.
I set the step so the mold is about 3/4" under the spout. I have my pot at eye level when pouring. I pour directly into the cavity and shut it down when the sprue just starts to puddle. I pour the furthest first.
I tried it a lot of different ways. I found the way that works best for me, it to keep it at eye level, and use the location of the spout to cavity as a guide. I found the mold slides best if it is only resting on the step, rather than solidly perched on it.
Too far away, and I missed the cavity, too close and I could not stop the flow in time. It would run into the next cavity creating air cavities, improper fill out, and clogged sprue entry.
It will take some foolin around, but that is what works for me.

[fredj338]

On my Magama, the distance is preset about 1/2" & pours fine. On my Lee 20#, I put the mold up tight & then back off when full to create the sprue. It seems to give a better formed base on all the molds I use.

[jdgabbard]

I run an inch away from the mold. Many times on a Lyman two cav I can keep my sprue small enough that a quarter can cover it up. And I cast fast, so that I keep my blocks hot.