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crabo
05-20-2009, 01:05 AM
Anyone working with it yet?

ddeaton
05-20-2009, 07:51 AM
I just loaded 50. Havent had a chance to put them down the tube yet. Mine is on the edge of dropping too small.

wiljen
05-20-2009, 10:21 AM
I loaded 100 or so using Rex II and found they shot very well in my 1911s. I still need to try promo and a couple other powders.

ddeaton
05-20-2009, 12:08 PM
Wiljen, I used Unique, cant remember how much. Got in written down at home. Medium load. I am thinking this will be good for IDPA shooting? I dont know all the rules yet.

475/480
05-20-2009, 03:00 PM
They will not shoot in my Para 7.45 SS- 45 ,I have loaded them to 1.18" ,1.17",1.16" ,1.15" .
NO GO :confused:
I know the load is good. Blue Dot 8.5gr=860 fps,it just hangs up on the nose a little and prevents the action from closing.

Sean

Catshooter
05-20-2009, 06:14 PM
My mould is from the original buy, 2005? but it feeds in all my .45s and shoots well. My Winchester likes it too.


Cat

wiljen
05-20-2009, 08:36 PM
They will not shoot in my Para 7.45 SS- 45 ,I have loaded them to 1.18" ,1.17",1.16" ,1.15" .
NO GO :confused:
I know the load is good. Blue Dot 8.5gr=860 fps,it just hangs up on the nose a little and prevents the action from closing.

Sean

BD and Waksupi posted some instructions for stoning the slide stop lever so the bullets wont catch when feeding. You might ask either of them for their tips.

475/480
05-20-2009, 08:51 PM
BD and Waksupi posted some instructions for stoning the lever so the bullets wont catch when feeding. You might ask either of them for their tips.

Thanks Wiljen.Will do.

Sean

Bret4207
05-21-2009, 07:38 AM
BD and Waksupi posted some instructions for stoning the lever so the bullets wont catch when feeding. You might ask either of them for their tips.

There's a lever in a 1911?

BD
05-21-2009, 12:03 PM
There's a couple of things possibly going on here. The BDacp is a full diameter bullet with a "sharp".320 meplat. This can lead to feeding issues in a couple of situations.

First: THERE ARE NO POWER TOOLS INVOLVED IN ANYTHING WE
ARE DISCUSSING HERE INVOLVING A 1911. You and your gun will be safer if you put the pistol on the shelf and the dremel in the safe. The amount of metal removal involved is at most a tenth or two of one grain, maybe .5 grain for throating.

One is a feed ramp with annular machining rings evident. because the meplat is "sharp", it can drag on these rings slowing the slide so that it doesn't make it fully into battery. in an extreme case a nose down round from the bottom of the mag may hang right up. Evidence of this can be a bump or flat spot on the edge of the meplat. The cure is to polish the feed ramp. There is a ton of info out there on "polishing" feed ramps. I'm NOT going into it here as the best method is pre-determined by the starting dimensions of the pistol in question. If it needs more than 10 seconds with a bit of 600 grit wet/dry paper on your pinky, You will need to think it through.

Another is that the full diameter boolit can contact the lands in a barrel with no throat. I've looked down a bunch of 1911 barrels and I've seen throats form non-existent to 1/2", even among guns from the same manufacturer. Evidence of this is a slide that stops very close to being in battery, and can be tapped in. Also, "land" marks on the boolit of an unfired, ejected round. The cure is to throat the gun. Ideally, just to the point that cartridge will headspace on the boolit making for excellent accuracy. Throating a 1911 takes 5 minutes with a hand turned reamer. I have one that I've lent to a number of folks, unfortunately it is currently in Maine, with my 1911s, and I am in the PRNY.

The third common problem is the slide locking back prematurely. This is caused by the ogive of the boolit hitting the "button" on the inside the frame back of the slide stop as it comes up from the mag. I suppose you could call the slide stop a "lever"? This is typically cured by stoning down the back of the slidestop a bit to smooth it up. That button is commonly cast from a part made by several passes of a tool. The process can leave a little pyramid or "tit' in the center of the back of the button. The trick is to stone that smooth without reducing the lip that catches the slide follower when the mag is empty. I also run a small drill bit through the slide stop pin tube, and twist it in my fingers, to put a slight detent on the rear face of the stop for the pin to seat in in order to lesson the chances of this happening, (or me bumping the stop up by accident. I think brownells sells a baby ball end tool specifically for this.

When I designed this boolit I was interested in maximizing the meplat and I went with the dimension that worked in all three of the 1911s I had on hand at the time. In my mind it was better to exclude, or fix, those guns outside of the parameters, rather than reducing the meplat to the point that it would work well in every example of 1911 out there. I never intended to mass produce these for a profit.

BD

BD
05-21-2009, 12:19 PM
ddeaton,
Although I designed the BDacp and really like it, I use the H&G #68 design for IDPA. Primarily because the 200 grainer just above major makes a lighter recoiling, quicker back on target, type load for practice and games. It makes a cleaner, easy to score, hole in the cardboard and it uses less lead to make, while using about the same amount of powder to make MPF.

I load the BDacps hotter for killing things, and the nose design helps me keep the two types of ammo seperate. I do take some with me for those occasional stages that involve knocking over a bunch of steel, or shooting through things.

For those who didn't ask, when carrying concealed in town, I'm carrying Ranger RTs. The BDacp makes an excellant practice round for these, but concerning CC it's the penetration thing IMHO.

Boy, this makes me want to move back to a free state.

BD

wiljen
05-21-2009, 01:55 PM
There's a lever in a 1911?

Slide stop Bret - lost the words it happens sometimes.

ddeaton
05-24-2009, 10:02 PM
ddeaton,
Although I designed the BDacp and really like it, I use the H&G #68 design for IDPA. Primarily because the 200 grainer just above major makes a lighter recoiling, quicker back on target, type load for practice and games. It makes a cleaner, easy to score, hole in the cardboard and it uses less lead to make, while using about the same amount of powder to make MPF.

I load the BDacps hotter for killing things, and the nose design helps me keep the two types of ammo seperate. I do take some with me for those occasional stages that involve knocking over a bunch of steel, or shooting through things.

For those who didn't ask, when carrying concealed in town, I'm carrying Ranger RTs. The BDacp makes an excellant practice round for these, but concerning CC it's the penetration thing IMHO.

Boy, this makes me want to move back to a free state.

BD


Thanks BD, that makes perfect sense. My main load in my 1911's is HG68 with 3.8 grs of Bullseye. I am going to shoot some of these BD45's tomorrow. I will give a range report.