OK, here's my big score

[Tippet]

Given to me yesterday:


molds

Lyman 311291 4 cav, new in box sealed in cellophane
Lyman 358315 4 cav, new in box sealed in cellophane
Lyman 358318 2 cav
Lyman 358495 2 cav
Lyman Maxi-Ball .45 sphere for black powder
Lyman Maxi-Ball .45 200gr WC for black powder new in box sealed in cellophane
Lee 358-150 1R 1 cav new in box
Lee 452-228 1R hollow pt. 1 cav new in box
Lee C277-125 R 1 cav new in box
Lee429-244 SWC

handles

1 small Lyman
1 large Lyman
1 4-cav Lyman
3 single-cav Lee
1 double-cav Lee

bullet lube

8 sticks Lyman/Ideal
6 stick Tamarack
3 5-oz Maxi-Lub for black powder

gas checks

6mm: 2k Hornady
.25 cal: 1k Ideal
.270 cal: 6k Hornady, 2k Sierra
.30 cal: 3k Hornady, 2k Lyman
.35 cal: 1k Ideal

Lyman pot
Lyman dipper
Lyman Model 61 furnace
2 Lyman 4-ingot molds
20lbs + antimony
200lbs + lead

Also, I got a bunch of shotshell reloading stiff, there'll be lots more of that too.

Guys I want to do something with this right now this minute. Even if I just throw whatever I cast tonight back in the pot, I want to get my feet wet. Some of the lead is in ingot with stamps indicating various alloys, I'll try to keep track of what I melt. Most of the lead is pure lead Marty bought from the company he worked for when they had a bunch leftover from some project.

I'm not going to mess with mixing in antimony yet, from what I hear you need to mix in tin too or the antimony crystalizes in the middle of the boolit.

Don't have any of JP's famous fake flux yet, so I guess I'll find something stinky instead.

I guess I'll cast some .357's, since that mold has already been used. No sense getting the new ones dirty yet, I might want to trade some of them. I need to get some dies and top punches for the 450.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting001.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting004.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting005.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting006.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting007.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting008.jpg

[snaggdit]

Great haul! I'm envious.

I'm not familiar with that model of casting pot, but what are those exposed wires? I'd plug it in carefully and check those with a meter first before trying to cast with it.

Otherwise, go for it. If all you have is pure to start with without alloying, you might want to try 45s instead of 357s. 357s loaded reasonably should probably have WW hardness. 45s go slow enough that pure would be fine. Be sure to clean the mold good if you decide to break out a new one.

[snaggdit]

Oh, I went back up and looked. The 45 is a HP. Might not want to start with that. Try the maxiball. Pure is what it wants anyway. And that 45HP, you just need to send that to me. I'll even pay you for it. As for the rest of you, I got dibs!:shock:

[stubshaft]

Someone hit the lottery of casting!

[Tippet]

I've got some alloy ingot to start with, but I want to use the 357 mold because its already dirty and I'll be keeping it. I plan on trading some moulds

[defib]

Look at the price on the 270 gas checks. $2.00 They are obviously old and unsafe i would be happy to dispose of them for ya! Just kidding. I am jealous though. Be careful with that pot with the exposed wires.

[Tippet]

Yes the Sierras are marked $2, the Lymans are marked $3.25, and the Hornady's are marked $.88

Ideals unmarked for price

[Tippet]

Ya I'm going to rewire the pot directly to a cord with a plug

[TREERAT]

IF you decide to sell any of them, you have one I would be interested in. the lyman 358318 2 cav.

[Tippet]

well I just got done with my first go at casting! Pics tomorrow. (later today I guess)

The .358 swc produced perfect boolits.

The .45 hollow point and the .358 round nose all sucked. Back to the pot with them. I can't believe how messed up they were considering the perfect semi-wadcutters.

I cleaned the mold, I heated it up in the metal, I tried different metal temps: 700, 750, 800; I don't get it. What's the trick to round-nose boolits?

[badgeredd]

Good for you!!!!!! You have some very desirable molds there too. Really nice to get all of that stuff to get started with. You owe a huge thank-you to someone.

Now to collect WW while they are still available. You are entering the addiction with a good bit of the equipment everyone needs.

Edd

[armyrat1970]

well I just got done with my first go at casting! Pics tomorrow. (later today I guess)

The .358 swc produced perfect boolits.

The .45 hollow point and the .358 round nose all sucked. Back to the pot with them. I can't believe how messed up they were considering the perfect semi-wadcutters.

I cleaned the mold, I heated it up in the metal, I tried different metal temps: 700, 750, 800; I don't get it. What's the trick to round-nose boolits?

Tippet. Do you gamble? You should with the luck you have to get such a haul.:)
What are the boolits looking like that you have to through back into the pot. That may help giving a better explanation of the problem you may be having.

[WHITETAIL]

Great score!:mrgreen:

[hoosierlogger]

you lucky bastage. That is a great find. I have one of those pots. be very careful when plugging it in. there are several layers of mica compressed together to make that board that the cord plugs in to. Mine is broke in the same place. I put a coffee pot cord on it. Might be able to buy a new one from Lyman.

[jcw1970]

I have one of those pots. It works great for small batches. Just watch the thermostat, it will go bad. mine is almost there. the temp likes to creep up on you. other than that, you're one lucky sob. lol.

[targetshootr]

All of it for free? That's my kind of socialism.

[RayinNH]

That looks like a bargain at twice the price. I need to find better friends...Ray

[fatnhappy]

Geez taylor,

Where are all the 10 cavity H&G moulds? I think you were cheated.


[smilie=1:

Seriously, nice haul. I wish lyman would pay attention to us and make 4C rifle moulds again.

[Echo]

What a HAUL! Now you have to get busy policing up WW's to exercise all those nice molds. I didn't see where anyone cautioned you regarding rendering down the WW's in your casting furnace. Don't do it. Trash will screw up the pouring spout. Don't ask me how I know.
I have heard of guys using a coffee can on the stove to melt down their WW's. I would call that about the minimum - you can go up from there.

[Tippet]

OK here's what they look like. The round nose and hollow points are wrinkly. I guess that's what the instructions that came with the mold calls "not filling out", it's either oil in the cavity, cold mold, metal not hot enough, alloy no good, needs flux, or mold not smoked. I think I'll try smoking the nmold, get some carbon on the cavity. I didn't try that yet doh! But I didn't do it with the SWC and that worked fine....ah the mysteries in life...

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/swc1.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/rn1.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/hp1.jpg

[Flash]

The lead is too cold. Raise the temperature dial to at least 750 degrees and then try again. The driving bands on the wadcutter bullet should be crisper too. What will you be trading and what are you looking for in trade?

[Tippet]

Thanks flash, and it's good to know there's room for improvement on the wadcutter too.

For now nothing is being traded until I figure out exactly what I need for the loads I shoot. Once I know what I'll be giving up and how much it's worth, I'll post in Swappin' & Sellin'.

[Tippet]

I'm looking at the mold and it looks to me like the bands on the boolit match the bands in the mold to a tee.

[Tippet]

Funny to think the lead's too cold. esp. since it worked without wrinkling on the wadcutter. I had the thing turned up to 800, maybe I should find a thremometer and check it. I'd guess it was hotter than the dial indicator, not cooler.

[badgeredd]

Funny to think the lead's too cold. esp. since it worked without wrinkling on the wadcutter. I had the thing turned up to 800, maybe I should find a thremometer and check it. I'd guess it was hotter than the dial indicator, not cooler.

Tippet,

I'd say that your mold is likely too cold too. The wadcutter boolit looks like the outside edges are not fully filled out to me, also. Set your mold on the edge of your pot to warm it up or if you can pick up a hotplate at Wally World, you can preheat your mold with it. Also guys mention floating the mold in your melt to warm it. If your mold is warmed up properly most molds will cast decently with your alloy heated to 700 to 750 degrees. Some mold will make good boolits at 650.

For myself, I have found that most of the molds I have run good boolits at 700 degrees without fail. If I allow the alloy to get below 650 I usually start having problems. It took me a while to realized I wasn't getting my mold warm enought initially. Once I did figure this out, I've had a lot less problems.

Hope this helps you some.

Edd

[94Doug]

+1 on the moulds too cool.... pick up the pace, and cast away. The temp of the moulds will come up.

Doug

[snaggdit]

Since the 2 molds that cast poorly were new ones, I would clean them well first before smoking them then try again with them pre-heated. Oil in the cavities might be a culprit here.

[Tippet]

Actually I cleaned them well with Coleman fuel first. I did not smoke them with a match to get carbon on the surface of the mold blocks, which i read later is recommended.

[leadman]

Watch those old Lyman gas checks if you have a Chrony. They don't crimp on to the base of the boolit real tight and tend to come off in flight. They will penetrate a screen on a Chrony.

My Chrony has the display screen on the bench now!

Take your time and you will have good results. The little details really matter when casting.

[jdgabbard]

Holy Smokes Batman! How come its never me that finds the pot of gold! Those 4-Cavs look defective, and since they may have been used you must dispose of them properly. I'll take care of them for a nominal fee on your part...Heck since your a member I'll do it for free ;)

[Tippet]

I had to turn the thing all the way up to get these better results, but there's still quite a bit of room for improvement, esp. the edges of the hollow point. I need a thremometer, couldn't find one yesterday maybe harbor freight. Might have to order one online.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting102.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/casting103.jpg

[snaggdit]

Looks like my mold is dropping much nicer now. When you get it perfect, just drop it in the mail to me, OK? :kidding: Looking good:-D

[Tippet]

Any tips for getting a sharp, uniform edge on the hollow point?

[Trey45]

Any tips for getting a sharp, uniform edge on the hollow point?

Other than swaging? maybe drilling, but cast results like yours are typical from what I've seen. you might try preheating the hollow pointer before pouring? Congrats on the awesome haul, you're really going to enjoy casting.

[Bladebu1]

good haul
good luck
and have fun
I think anyone here would loved to be able to put up a list like that

[jdgabbard]

Any tips for getting a sharp, uniform edge on the hollow point?

What kind of pin does the HP mold have? Wood handled, or is it a captive pin? If its a wood handled, literally dip the pin in the melt, for a few seconds prior to pouring every pour. And warm your mold up with a hotplate. It will help you maintain a more consistent and higher temp, which will help fill out.

[Tippet]

It's a captive pin centered in the Lee blocks. I'm dipping the mold corner into the melt, but to dip the pin I'd risk getting crud in the cavity. I think I'll eventually get a Lyman mold with a different pin system.

[jdgabbard]

No, what you have is a great system. You just need to run that mold HOT HOT HOT. If your boolits are not going out frosted, you're not warm enough. Cast faster and see if that helps you out.

[Tippet]

ok thanks for the tip. I wonder where I can find a hot plate that gets hot enough? Dipping it in the melt isn't doing it.

[badgeredd]

ok thanks for the tip. I wonder where I can find a hot plate that gets hot enough? Dipping it in the melt isn't doing it.

I picked mine up at WallyWorld for about $10 last year. It's simple and effective. I put the mold on the hot plate while the pot is getting hot. it usually works out that by the time the pot gets up to about 750 the mold is pretty close to temp. If I remember to start the hot plate about 5 minutes ahead of the pot, everything is perfect. Hope that helps you. By the way, your boolits are getting better quickly. As said above you're still need to get things a bit warmer. And yes, your hollow point insert is a little on the cool side, meaning your mold needs to be a bit warmer. You're getting it though.

Edd

[jar-wv]

Nice haul. looks like your set up pretty good. I have some WW ingots I'll trade you for the Lee 358-150 1R 1 cav.

jar

[Tippet]

LOL thanks anyway, but part of the haul was 200+ lbs of metal

[armyrat1970]

You second attempt gave much better results. Wondering if the coleman fuel could have left some deposits in the cavity? Clean them with rubbing alcohol. Let them dry and wipe the cavity out well with a q-tip and then smoke your molds with a wooden match. No butane lighter and no candle. Molds may still be a little cold but you are getting in the ball park. Cast a few. If they come out rough just throw them back into the furnace. Keep pouring. You will see when the mold is hot enough. Once they start to look a little frosty let the mold sit for a few minutes to cool a little and then start pouring again until you notice a little frost. Nothing wrong with a frosted bullet though. They will shoot fine as long as the mold fills out and the bearing surfaces are crisp.
Check the pin for the HP mold and make sure it is smooth all the way around. It could need a little tuning and attention.
I think the molds you have will serve you well after a couple more casting sessions.
Looks like we got another one that's addicted now.

[Tippet]

I don't think Coleman fuel's the culprit, too many people have recommended it as a cleaning agent. I smoked the cav with a paper match, and there wasn't a lot of carbon. I'll try a wooden one next time. I don't think the mold's cold, it's aluminum and supposed to heat up real fast by dipping the corner into the melt for 8 sec. I think it may be the metal isn't hot enough. I won't know for sure until the thermometer I ordered gets here.

I'm getting this old pot cleaner in stages. Here's what it looked like after my first session:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/P1010002.jpg

After a long conversation with Nolan (oneokie) I spent quite a bit of time soaking it in vinegar and wire-wheeling it. It was much, much cleaner for my second attempt. Then last night I spent quite a bit more time on it.

Casting seems to help clean the thing. I figure one more casting session followed by another manual cleaning and I'll be ready to post the after-pic. Anyway the point is, I wouldn't be surprised if the gunk coating the walls of the pot is hindering the thing from getting as hot as it could.

Agh I hope a pot this dirty is a product of pooor maintenance and not an inevitable thing.

[686]

i hope you gave that person a big kiss.

[armyrat1970]

Tippet which therometer did you settle on?
Did you check the pin for the HP molds to see if they were round?
Don't mean the Coleman's fuel is a bad cleaner but it could have left a slight film if you didn't clean the cavity afterwards with some thing like rubbing alochol that leaves no film. Coleman's fuel is petroleum and could leave a little something behind after drying.
My first attempt at casting I dropped really good bullets and felt great about it. My second attempt had me pulling my hair out as I could not get a single nice bullet from my molds and thought I did everything the way I did it the first time. One little oversight can make a diferrence between a keeper and one that goes back into the pot. The good thing is if it's not a keeper it can always go back into the pot to be tried again later.

[Slow Elk 45/70]

Looking at the boolits, I'm guessing you need to Clean the Molds first, aluminum molds are hard to clean, I soak mine over night in mineral spirits , then scrub in hot water and liquid soap , rinse , dry. The aluminum molds need more Heat to drop good boolits. Preheat your molds and you may want to jack up your alloy temp.

There is no mystery to RN boolits, the molds being Clean and temperature will help you find success. You are very Lucky by the way to have a benefactor so generous, try these tips and have some fun!!!

[Tippet]

Guys, I'm getting the moulds clean. I think my trouble is heat. I read a few things I found about casting HP's, though apparantly this mould is a rarity because the pin is affixed to the handles, centered in the block.

I have managed to get sharp, well defined edges at the HP, by raising the melt temp to the pot max.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/frosted_close.jpg
I have no idea yet what that temp is, Midway shipped my Lyman casting thermometer (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=595204) on the 13th.

Best I've done so far is turn the melter all the way up, dip the mould for 8 seconds, and then start casting with a good rythym. After a few pours the sprue takes a little longer the solidify and the boolit drops off the HP pin without whackage. The hole has sharp edges, but the boolit's way frosted.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/frosted.jpg
If I lower the temp enough to eliminate the frosting, the pin doesn't get hot enough
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/deformed_close.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/deformed.jpg

BTW I've got that melter working pretty good, it's fairly clean, getting a little cleaner ever session.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/boolits.jpg

I'd like to try one w/ a removable pin to dip in the melt. Could make it possible to use lower temps.

[snaggdit]

Well, it seems you got my mold working just fine now. Ship it any time. :kidding:
No, really, looks good. Very clean edges on the HPs. Frost is no big deal.

[Tippet]

I thought those lube grooves need to be crisper, the frosting seems to roughen them up.

[Dean D.]

Looking great! I have not had any problems shooting frosted boolits. I'm sure when you size those boolits the imperfections in the lube grooves will no longer be noticeable enough to effect accuracy.

Keep up the good work!

[armyrat1970]

Wow. I didn't even have to use my reading glasses to read your last post with the pics. Really was standing out.
Boolits look much better. As snaggdit stated, don't worry about the frosting.
As Dean D stated, once you size them, they will be better looking. I don't think you will have a problem with them. I have had some frosted bullets and from concern just ran them in my tumbler with corn cob for a few minutes. Don't rotate very well but it does smooth them out a little if that gives you any cause for concern. But don't run them for to long.
You are doing fine and your cast are looking better everytime.
Remember to let us know how they shoot.

[mroliver77]

With the Lee HP moulds I found them to want lots of heat. How far are you filling the pot? I dont like to let mine get below 50% for best results. If you have any tin mebbe try adding some and see if driving bands clean up. But really these look very shootable! I occassionally have days when I cant get boolits looking this good. I just shut off the pot and go mow the lawn. You are lucky to have this forum at your disposal.
Jay

[Tippet]

I'm using #2 alloy. I leave about an inch in the bottom when I'm done. When I heat it up, I dump in the sprue from the previous session, and any malformed boolits. I add enough alloy to fill it right to the top. I use sawdust for flux, letting it blacken real good before stirring. I keep a layer of charcoal on the surface. I keep casting until there's about an inch left on the bottom and unplug the pot. That's enough boolits for at least several hours of shooting.:Fire:

According to the thermometer that arrived yesterday, the dial is within 10° of correct. The melt has to be at 850° for the mold to play nice.

It is sweet when the mould get to the right temp. The sprue takes a little time to begin to solidify, then comes off with barely a tap to the plate. I open the mold and the boolit just falls right out without having to whack it

Now my issue is after enough boolits hit the damp towel, it's hard to drop one without it hitting another boolit. But if I break my rythym enough to clear an area the mould cools off, it's an irritating interuption of the flow.

I've got too many that are damaged hitting other boolits:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n226/tayloroid/cast%20boolits/P1010001.jpg

I need to figure out a way to set up the landing zone so they can hit a clear area of towel then roll out of the way.

I ordered the sizing die and top punch. Should be sizing and loading next week. I'm a little nervous because it's a Lyman 374 top punch I'm hoping will fit this Lee boolit.

[Wayne Smith]

Set your towel up on a long slope, drop the boolit on the top of the slope. It should cool enough before it hits bottom to harden and not scar.

[jdgabbard]

I use a big 10"x10" pan with a couple of hand towels laid on top. I drop on one side, and when they start bumping, I tilt the pan and let them roll to the other side. After there are enough, I dump them gently into a big square box, where later I sort them. Doing this yesterday I only had 10 throw aways. And those were due to the bases not filling out all the way. And I do cast WAY frosted. Best results like that.

[Tippet]

I think I'll go with the long slope idea. The 10"x10" landing zone is kinda what I've been using, but taking time to adjust it or dump it sets off the rythym, the mould cools off too much.

I'm glad frosting isn't a problem, but I have to wonder why the recommended temps for various alloys are so much lower. Must be because they cast well if you're not trying to keep a hollow-point pin hot.

[armyrat1970]

I think I'll go with the long slope idea. The 10"x10" landing zone is kinda what I've been using, but taking time to adjust it or dump it sets off the rythym, the mould cools off too much.

I'm glad frosting isn't a problem, but I have to wonder why the recommended temps for various alloys are so much lower. Must be because they cast well if you're not trying to keep a hollow-point pin hot.

Try a rolling pan with a towel like you use for a paint roller.