Bore Slugging

[78CJ]

So as not to muddy up my post about being new to shooting cast and leading and lubes I figured I would start a new one about slugging.

It has been my intention to slug the bores of all of my Marlins (30/30 Microgroove, 44 Mag Microgroove, 444 Ballard and 45/70 Ballard rifled leverguns) to at least get an idea of where things are at.
The 30/30 is the first centerfire rifle I ever owned from new and is somewhat the baby of the family when it comes to any work I think I want to do. The 444 and 45/70 are technically for my daughter (3) and son (1 1/2) respectively but they both said I can develope loads for their guns in preparation for their hunting years. So this leaves the 44 mag for my test mule for any procedure I want to perform on a firearm. This gun I bought used and I figure any screw ups will hurt a lot less with its inherent lack of sentimental value.
I do understant the there is very little you can do wrong in slugging a bore but this just seemed the gun to start with. I did not get a chance to buy any #8 egg sinkers yet but I did have a 48" long wooden dowel, a large assortment of brass punches and some 50 cal. muzzleloader balls.
I figured I would just start a ball into the muzzle and run it through. I ran a patch with a generous amount of oil on it through the bore first. I then just started carefully tapping the ball into the muzzle with one of the punches, once the muzzle cut off a little lead the ball started into the bore. At this point I could shove the lead through the bore by hand until it got about halfway down and I actually had to tap on the dowel to get the lead through. I was able to surmize that this is in about the area of the dovetail cut for the forend cap tenon. Upon pushing the lead out the chamber I measured it at .422". I was then a little discouraged because this seems awful small. We then repeated the procedure with my friend holding the dowel in from the chamber end to back up my punching the lead in from the muzzle to try and form the ball to the barrel as tight as I could. I could still push it by hand until the restriction.

Now, I realize that no matter what, the slug will only be as large as the smallest part of the barrel. My concern is that even then am I getting an accurate representation of the restricion size with the muzzleloader ball or will I be better suited with egg sinkers?

And yes I could scratch the ML ball with a fingernail.

I hope this post is not too confusing I guess I am just wondering if this seems accurate before I go ramming slugs down the barrels of my sentimental guns. Or do I really need to get me some egg sinkers?

Thanks

Ryan

[9.3X62AL]

I use the same method you use for slugging, but rather than running the ball or slug all the way through the barrel--I start at the chamber end, and try to get an impression of the throat area's dimensions--then drive another slug or two into the barrel a few inches, then drive the slug back the way it came, inserting the drive rod through the muzzle.

That tight spot you're describing might be the bugbear I'm dealing with in my Marlin 25-20 lever gun, for the same reason. The little rifle does fine work with j-words, but it's a real struggle to get accuracy with cast boolits.

[78CJ]

I have not shot any cast out of anything but the 45/70 yet but the 44 mag is an absolute wonder with factory Winchester jacketed loads. I was just amazed the first time I shot a cloverleaf with the Williams peep at 50 yards and it will do it consistently ever since and even now with my handloads of 24 grains H110 and Sierra 240grainers. But there is just something about shooting cast that makes me want to start.

[9.3X62AL]

CJ--

Oh, I hear ya, sir! The 44 Magnum is one of most intrinsically accurate calibers available--if the platform integrity can exploit it. I am sort of torn between using just the j-words in that 25-20.....or maybe fire-lapping the thing. My preference for the castings is obvious, but if it isn't in the cards......well, it's 4th and 9, time to punt!

[BABore]

The hole in the middle of the egg sinker gives the displaced metal someplace to go and eliminates any spring back. The elongated shape seems to work better than a round ball. Be carefull using a wood dowel. My gunsmith told me about a guy that broke a dowel off driving the now pointed edge along side the bore slug effectively wedging it in place. I use an old shotgun cleaning rod. A good close fitting aluminum rod works the best.

[shooter575]

Some years ago I picked up a Uberti Henry in 44-40. Shot factory J stuff great.With BP and cast it would lead up real bad last 1/3 of barrel.I sluged it and it was tight the first 1/3,fell the 2nd 1/3.Then tight again.Having to re-engauge that last 1/3 just left a long smear
.Anyway it would never work with cast so I had it relined. If any stress is in the area where some machining has been done [ie dovetail,taped hole etc]That may release and cause a change in the bore.
Any tight spot will kill the accuracy with cast.You might be able to lap out a small area.I think it would be easyer to do on any rifleing except "microgroove"

[Scrounger]

Did you try a caseful of 1680 in that .25-20 yet, Al?

[9.3X62AL]

Not yet, Art--I largely set the thing aside when hunting season started in October, and haven't done much with it. I was thinking about some more surplus powders, and wondering how close the WC-680 is to the AA-1680. The nomenclature suggests a close relationship, anyway.

[felix]

Yep, Al, the same stuff, different lot. Saying it a little more forcefully: SOS, different day. ... felix

[9.3X62AL]

Thanks, Felix!

Art--reviewing Accurate Arms' data, the 1680 or 680 looks like it would serve well in the 32-20 rifle and in the 25-20. I'm waiting on the outcome of some load testing in the 6.5 x 55 with WC-860 before putting together an order for surplus propellant.

The 1894CL has TWO dovetails cut--one atop the barrel for the rear sight, and another several inches forward on the bottom of the barrel as a mag tube hanger. If ever there were built-in reasons for a barrel to lead up or throw boolits around, there they are. I can't feel tight or loose spots with a tight patch on a jag, either. The barrel didn't lead with plain-based boolits, and it seems to get more accurate as velocity increases--esp. with #257420. I got those 72 grainers running to almost 2000 FPS, and they threatened to shoot one inch groups at the 50 yard mark.

Got me by the aspirations.

[felix]

Al, beg, borrow, steal some RL7 before buying a ton of 680. Compare the two throughly before buying a bunch. RL7 ignites better, and will take to lower pressures better as well, at least in a large bore. The 25-20 case, and smaller bore should make 680 behave a little nicer than in a 45 colt using a normal length case. Using a longer case (casull) to get more powder, then the 680 should come into its glory. ... felix

[9.3X62AL]

Felix--I have some RL-7 left from trials with the 44-40 (thank you, W30WCF!) and to a lesser extent in the 25-20. See the thread in Leverguns for more info--we're kinda hijacking CJ's thread here!