Tape?

[softpoint]

O.K...I've cast bullets for awhile now. 38 years. I have to admit I've never loaded the first paper patch boolit, but this forum has spurred my interest to do so.. Now I don't want anyone here to sit down and write me a detailed instruction book complete with photo's but that is what I need, so if someone can point me to an online resource, I'd much appreciate it.
THEN I can worry everyone here with questions. My first question is , I have read that teflon tape is hard to get satisfactory results with, but what about masking tape? I've tried wrapping a few bullets already, and I'm finding wet printer paper tears MIGHTY easy.:-D

[Buckshot]

O.K...I've cast bullets for awhile now. 38 years. I have to admit I've never loaded the first paper patch boolit, but this forum has spurred my interest to do so.. Now I don't want anyone here to sit down and write me a detailed instruction book complete with photo's but that is what I need, so if someone can point me to an online resource, I'd much appreciate it.
THEN I can worry everyone here with questions. My first question is , I have read that teflon tape is hard to get satisfactory results with, but what about masking tape? I've tried wrapping a few bullets already, and I'm finding wet printer paper tears MIGHTY easy.:-D

.............One of the first requirements of PPing is that the paper you use has to be of sufficient quality to withstand being wet and stretched, as you roll the boolit into it. A farfetched examaple would be trying to PP with newsprint :-) I've heard of people having success with teflon plumber's tape, and also masking tape, and finally adhesive backed address labels. The premiss of the paper patch is that it's sole job is to keep bare lead away from the steel barrel. Once complete, at the muzzle it's irrelevant and ideally blown off by the 'jetting' gas. I would have to think that for any adhesive backed paper, the frictional heat generated traveling up the barrel would have it also easily blown off. Either that or the stuff is simply blown off by the violence of the escaping gas. However I do not believe that any serious long range competitor is using adhesive backed paper?

..............Buckshot

[shotman]

well I am a newby too and I tried the wet paper deal. I have better things to do,since I am not retarted and paying for Mr Os problems I tried the bandage tape. The one that is non alligery. feels like paper and is thin. It worked for me[Iguess] the boolit hit the target. I didnt fine any tape so I guess it burned up

[pdawg_shooter]

For a "how to" book get Paul Mathews book "The Paper Jacket". It is being printed again and Wolf Publishing has it for sale. It covers everything you need to know. I have tried teflon tape, masking tape, and most everything there is to find a shortcut. I am back and will stick to wet paper. I almost always use 16# green bar computer printer paper. It is the kind that has holes on both sides to pull it through the printer. I think it is a bit stronger than most paper. The patch must leave the bullet at the muzzle if you want accuracy. I have yet to recover a bullet with any signs of paper on it from my backstop. With paper you can push lead over 2200fps, WWs over 2600fps, and an alloy of BHN16 will go over 3000fps with the same accuracy as jacketed.

[softpoint]

Good info, so far guys! I am going to order that book from wolf, I think. I was just wondering about the tape, or labels, as I'm not out to be a "traditionalist" here, just want something that works, as an alternative to gaschecks and so I use softer alloys for hunting.
Heh..Some traditionalists prolly think the paper has to be moistened with polecat saliva in order to work properly!

[pdawg_shooter]

Nope, tap water.

[softpoint]

For a "how to" book get Paul Mathews book "The Paper Jacket". It is being printed again and Wolf Publishing has it for sale..

I ordered the book this AM

[montana_charlie]

Nope, tap water.Some 'purists' will insist on distilled water...