Using Cerrosafe to slug barrel/cylinders

[ghh3rd]

I don't know how to remove the cylinder from my S&W 642, but want to slug it. I am going to attempt this with Cerrosafe alloy.

Using Cerrosafe, how hard do you usually need to tap the "slug"? If all it requires are some gentle taps, perhaps I could wrap a rubber band around each end of the cylinder to keep it from moving while tapping.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Randy

[fourarmed]

Remove the front sideplate screw, swing out the cylinder, and the crane will pull off forward. The cylinder will then pull off the crane to the rear.

[Gerry N.]

I don't know how to remove the cylinder from my S&W 642, but want to slug it. I am going to attempt this with Cerrosafe alloy.

Using Cerrosafe, how hard do you usually need to tap the "slug"? If all it requires are some gentle taps, perhaps I could wrap a rubber band around each end of the cylinder to keep it from moving while tapping.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Randy
Here is a .pdf from Brownells on how to use Cerrosafe.

CLICK HERE (://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/General/DisplayPDF.aspx?f=bt002015.pdf)

Good luck

Gerry N.

[Down South]

I don't know how to remove the cylinder from my S&W 642, but want to slug it. I am going to attempt this with Cerrosafe alloy.

Using Cerrosafe, how hard do you usually need to tap the "slug"? If all it requires are some gentle taps, perhaps I could wrap a rubber band around each end of the cylinder to keep it from moving while tapping.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Randy
I’ve only had one experience using Cerrosafe and that was to see what the chamber of one of my rifles looked like. Cerrosafe is made to be heated and poured. I don’t think that you could use it to slug a gun with. Cerrosafe will not give you accurate bore and cylinder throat measurements because it shrinks when cooled. The best way will be to slug the revolver with a pure lead slug.
I own a 642 and the cylinder is not hard to remove. It’s been a while since I’ve removed mine so to refresh my memory I Googled it. Not only did the answer I got refresh my memory but I figured it would be easier to copy and paste the instructions here. This came from THR forum which I’m a member of.


On the Right side of the gun ( the side without the cylinder release) there are three screws. Remove the one just ahead and above of the trigger gaurd. Open the cyinder and slide it toward the barrel. The cylinder and yoke assembly will slide right off. You can simply separate the yoke and cylinder with nothing to worry about one you have it off. When you put it back together just close the cylinder first and replace the screw snug, not tight, or the cylinder won't open smoothly. Once you do it you'll find it's actually very simple and won't be an issue after that.

[ghh3rd]

Remove the front sideplate screw, swing out the cylinder, and the crane will pull off forward. The cylinder will then pull off the crane to the rear.

This is for a 642? Sounds simple enough -- even for a mechanically challenged individual?

Randy

[ghh3rd]

DownSouth - just saw your post too -- thanks to everyone.

I wish I had asked before my first attempt to slug in which I simply held the cylinder with my hand and wound up marring the frame slightly when the cylinder extended (farther than it should have) back and forth, tapping into the frame. Hope I didn't damage the crane. Guess taking it apart will give me a good look.

Edit: and this is only a 3 month old gun :-(
Live and learn.


Randy

[44man]

It is true that Cerro-Safe will not give accurate measurements even after the required expansion time. Slug the gun instead.

[Heavy lead]

This is for a 642? Sounds simple enough -- even for a mechanically challenged individual?

Randy

And most other Smith's that I know of.