Boolit sticks in sizer die?

[looseprojectile]

Argh. Poured a few lee 405 gr. 45/70s out of linotype. Sized a few and they have started sticking in the die. Don't want to break that spindly little handle on the lyman sizer lubricator. Had the same thing happen with .310 die about a week ago. It's probably the lube I am using [Made it myself] but the stuff shoots good.
The ejector rod seems to have a bunch of spongyness when I try to lift the handle.
Have taken out the die and used a small socket to catch the boolit and squeezed it out in the vice. Can feel it pop loose. Do sizer dies need an occaisional cleaning?
Been lurking here for a long time. Picked up a lot of good info. The only thing I have changed recently in my lube is that I added some bees wax and olive oil.
Anyone else have boolits stick?
Happy shooting

[sundog]

I'd say that you need to change something. If the boolits are too big that they need that much sizing you need a mould that drops a smaller diameter boolit or size it down in two steps instead of all at once, or get a larger diameter sizer. No reason to have boolits stick. sundog

[The Nyack Kid]

also try a softer lead alloy . linotype is hard stuff .

[lovedogs]

Hey Loose... don't thing it's lack of a taper. I use a Saeco and their sizer dies have a taper to start into the die. It's one of their claims, that it lines up and eases into the die for a better size. While I've not had anything get stuck tight I've noticed that some gas-checked bullets can get really tight and chatter some going through the die. You didn't mention if you were using a GC design or not. All my plain-base slip through really easy. I'm using SPG on everything.

[MGySgt]

Hard bullets in the Lyman dies will stick - Polish the inside of the die and your problem will go away. They will still be harder to size but they won't get stuck.

Check this thread:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=2448

Drew

[looseprojectile]

Thanks for your input guys.
I just went out in the shop and found that if I pushed the boolit all the way down, [adjusted it some], it comes out with some effort. The sized part looks like chrome it's so smooth. I was thinking maybe too smooth and not allowing any lube between die and boolit.
I may have to change my lube formula.
May just need some tinkering.
Happy shooting

[waksupi]

Welcome aboard.
I thnk you are on the opposite end of the hardness scale you want to be working in. Save that Lino for some regular centerfire stuff. In a .45-70, you are throwing away good tin. You would be better off casting WW's, or pure lead for those particular bullets

[RayinNH]

Loose, something you may want to try and it's what I do, is size in a Lee push through type sizer and use the Lyman for lubing only. Whenever I use a hard alloy or water cool boolits I find it much easier to do it this way because of the added leverage and sturdiness of the single stage press. I spray the new boolits with Hornady case lube and send them through the push through sizer. Granted it does add extra steps but its a lot less tiring and probably doesn't add extra time. The first time I did this was on 45-70 boolits as well, they were water cooled and aged about a week. I had about 500 to do and gave up after about a dozen. It seemed like I was just going to destroy the Lubesizer. Just something to consider...Ray

[looseprojectile]

Ray; et al.
I sprayed the remaining boolits, Lee pb, with One Shot case lube, all is well.
The reason I wanted lino boolits is I have a Navy arms 45/70 on a Siamese action and it has a tight bore and groove. Tried my usual ww boolits and ended up with a lead pipe. Grooves are only about .002 deep. Also will reduce the velocity with linotype boolits.
What really jerks my chain is my .30 cal boolits in ww shoot beautiful up to 2,000 fps. with the same lube. I really need to get a new .458 mold or two, as this old lee mold has been hammered pretty bad.
Thank's for your help and happy shooting.

[chunkum]

Lyman sizing dies and oversized linotype bullets are not incompatable. When I first started shooting and loading for the .454 Casull back in the mid 80's, best I can recall, Bob Baker had me casting for it with gc type linotype bullets from a a couple of moulds Lyman made just for that caliber back then. Being a creative fellow, I wanted to try out something bigger and since I had an old Ideal handtool/mould combinationg lying around that still cast decent 405gr PB bullets, I did some up in linotype (which is the best alloy for easy casting, hands down).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/PhilHarris/45-70IdealToolnDie.jpg
I can't remember what size they fell out at but oversizsed anyway. I used the sizer in the handles first, and then "staged" the sizing in my old 450 starting with a .454 H&I die and then proceeding to the .452 dimension. It went well and there was never any indication any of the equipment was about to give way and it didn't. Later I used the same anhydrous lanolin I used for sizing cases on these bullets and that did very well too. I'd think the "spray on" lube your using will solve your difficulties with sizing this bullet permanently.
One thought on the "shallow rifling" in your rifle is that you'd likely do much better with a gas checked bullet. At least that's what I've found to be true in such instances.
Best Regards,
chunkum

[drinks]

Lp;
I just finished gc ing and sizing 1400, .452 bullets of a babbitt material that is BHN 24-26.
New linotype is about BHN 22.
I used the Lee push through sizer and Hornady Unique case lube to lubricate the bullets before sizing.
This is a white cake in a small tub, just rub a finger or two on the cake every 5-6 bullets and sorta fondle the bullet while putting the gc on.
It was work, but never had a bullet stick.
With straight linotype, you should be able to load to 30,000 psi with no problem, although the .002 groove depth really seams as though you would be pretty well restricted to jacketed bullets, or as chunkum said, at least gas checks.
.002 " is not much to grab onto a cast bullet.
Don