Identifying WW and Zinc

[ciPeterF]

Some of us don't have ideal temperature control for melting down pots of WW (and associated "stuff", eg zinc)).. so is there anyway to tell composition by markings, shape??

I sorted thru 5 gal of WW today, and here's what's mostly in there..

Weights with a "P" in the center of the weight, and the weight has what I'll descrbe as elongated ends (compared to below)

Weights (painted) with a "T" in the center, and same shape as above.. Feel about the same when bending and breaking them

Weights with rather square ends marked "MC", typically a square profile, also painted.

Weights with very square ends, marked "AW"

Weights with ends between the rather square ones and the first ones mentioned, marked "P-Zn"

Can we trust these markings and does anyone know the composition of each? I assume last P-Zn is a lead zinc mix? and the P is std WW.

[jsizemore]

Let me help you identify WW.

I use a pair of Channel-Lock side cutters.

If I position the jaws of the side cutters so they won't hit the steel clip:

1. If it's a lead WW you can cut right through that sucker as long as you apply pressure to the handles.

2.If it's zinc or steel you will barely make a mark on the surface of the WW.

Those are the marks that will tell you which are which. Experience will tell you what the other marks mean.

If it reads Zn, it's zinc for sure.

[ciPeterF]

Thks,, I like those simple methods... "going lead meltin"...(and improving my grip :-) )

[ghh3rd]

I used the side cutters for a while, but wound up with a blister before I was half way through a pail. It is a good method though. Next time I try that I'll wear gloves while I exercise my grip :-)

[376Steyr]

FWIW, the last 80 lb. batch I melted using the dutch oven/turkey fryer method left a couple of whole zinc weights floating gently on top of the melt with the steel clips. I had the burner set at sort of "medium-high", and let the potful of weights slowly melt.

[ciPeterF]

Thks guys, now have a fresh batch (60 lbs, and a tender hand :-) ) of material that I know isn't contaminated,, was having some "oatmeal on top" occurances that weren't fun.. Now, if only I had a Magma caster instead of the two holer...

[jsizemore]

I not saying that you got to use the side cutters forever. If you see a WW that has MICRO on it and it's lead, then it's a pretty good bet that about all the MICRO WW's you see are going to be lead (at least all that I've seen). Same with MC, HONDA or H, IAW,etc.
Your sitting around waiting for the lead to melt, so quit playing pocket pool and get ready for the next pot of WW and pay attention to what are good WW.

I stuck my thermometer against the bottom of the pot when it was empty. It read 850 deg. Sounds hot enough to melt a zinc WW.
I cut my gas back so I had a temp of 650 and using the thermometer to check what's goin' on instead of guessing by the size and sound of the flame. It only added about 10 minutes to melt time.

[supv26]

I sorted 220 pounds of WW tonight and only had around 10 pounds of zinc and steel WW. I discovered the zinc weights had Zn or Fe on them so identifying them was easy. There were a couple that did not have anything but a number on them but I soon was able to recognize them also. I also got a blister on my hand so I quit using the side cutters on every weight.

If the weather cooperates I will be melting them all down this weekend. Since I am running two molds now I go through the ingots in a hurry now!

[1stSkink]

I run my WWs across a file. The ZN and Steel sound and feel like metal on metal. The Pbs are soft, you can feel it. Just be mindful that where ever you do this, there will be a pile of Pb shavings (ie don't do it where pets or ankle biters are).
skink

[Bob Krack]

Weights with a "P" in the center of the weight
Weights (painted -or not) with a "T" in the center
Weights with rather square ends marked "MC"
Weights with very square ends, marked "AW"
"Micro"
"Snuggle"
"Sears"
"Wards"
"AL"
These are USUALLY lead without zinc. Bob

Weights marked "P-Zn"
Can we trust these markings and does anyone know the composition of each? I assume last P-Zn is a lead zinc mix? and the P is std WW.

Others to look out for are any that have a small "ZN", most all that have rivets, and any marked "Fe" (Fe is the name for steel/iron).

Any that are unpainted and scratch easily with any fairly sharp metal object (nail, screw, etc) are good - and if one is marked with a strange marking, test it with the nail or cutters and it's mostly safe to assume any others of the same size - marking - and shape is good to use.

Same applies to stick-ons also - except the part about rivets.

All the others here have given good advice so far.


Bob