how to slug my superblackhawk?

[waco]

i have never slugged a barrel before
i get the idea.....put a soft lead slug in the barrel, and then take it out and mic it.
ok........pb slug goes in the muzzle......how do you get it out?
hope this is not a stupid question
just got a bunch of pure and thought, i should slug some of my guns
the ruger 44 made me scratch my head!
thanks in advance for the input guys!:drinks:
waco

[454PB]

Clean the barrel, oil it lightly, then use a rod to drive the slug from the muzzle completely through the barrel and out the forcing cone. I use a brass rod, but some guys get away with hardwood dowels. Sometimes it takes a lot of force, and I think wood is a bad idea because it can splinter and split.

My slugging rod is cone shaped on the end, and stays centered on the slug. If you are concerned about the rod touching the rifling, you can apply electrician's tape to as a barrier.

[44man]

Two ways I do it. Start the slug and push it all the way through so you can feel if there is a tight spot at the threads that needs lapped out.
I also put a long strip of thick micarta across the recoil shield, drop a close fitting brass rod through the bore and against the micarta, pound a slug to the rod and upset it with another brass rod. I can then pull on the ends of the micarta to pull the slug back out. Might need some tapping. Thick hardwood works too. Just make sure it isn't something that will break before you get the slug out.
The bore needs to be clean and a film of oil in it.
The easiest way is to just push it through the barrel.

[targetshootr]

The only time I did it was from the back. I banged it up into the forcing cone and then pushed it out from the other end. No matter how far it goes through the barrel the final size will be whatever it is at the forcing cone.

[Wayne S]

IMHO, you need to slug your cylinder throats for the best results, 'egg sinkers work great, take your calipers and get some as close to .433 as possible, my bet is that your cylinder throats will measure .431

[Ole]

Can't you just take the cylinder out?

I've never done this with a SBH, but i've done it with my brother's single six, and it made it a lot easier to clean.

[Slow Elk 45/70]

Yes, Ole, you remove the cylinder , or at least I do. I use a vice to hold the frame of the pistol or the cylinder, which ever is being slugged, be sure to use softeners in the jaws to keep from damaging the parts. Works for me. Good luck

[ChuckS1]

IMHO, you need to slug your cylinder throats for the best results, 'egg sinkers work great, take your calipers and get some as close to .433 as possible, my bet is that your cylinder throats will measure .431

I just that with my S&W Model 1950 .44 Special (pre-24). I used an unsized Lyman 429421 bullet and tapped it through the cylinder. The boolit measured .432 at both the middle band and the base. I tried some other boolits I had sized at .430 and they easily pushed through, while the unsized boolit took a little bit of persuading with a dowel and a tack hammer.

While I get good accuracy with the .430 sized boolits, should I get a .431 sizer die? Will that make a difference?

[Slow Elk 45/70]

ChuckS1, IMHO if the .431 size can be pushed through with ease at the cylinder throats, I would size to this and try them, this is the accepted method by most folks.

This is assuming that your bore is .429-.430 . It usually helps accuracy and helps prevent leading if your boolit is .001-.002 over Bore size. It works for me, good luck

[Blammer]

here how NOT to slug the brl.

Oil up the brl real good, then load a round with only the primer, bullet, and NO powder, then shoot. Obviously shoot in a safe direction.

Now try to get the bullet out.. :)