Broken nut on LY450

[MT Gianni]

I broke the nut that holds the die in on my 450. Moved the die over to the RCBS LAM and kept on going. Threads are still in the base. There is no lip showing. What's the general concensus? options are:
1] hammer/chisel it out, rethread and replace the nut.
2] Find a machine shop to do the same
3] Ship it back to Lyman
Any others? Machine is from mid 90's.

[legend]

mt gianni,
here is what i would try,for whatever its worth...

back off your pressure on the lube
heat slightly,wipe the broken threads off to see what your working with
most likely you can catch the top of the threads with a tiny screwdriver,or, a flatend nail pushing counterclockwise.
it should back out if lube is mostly gone.

i did have to heat mine a second time(hair dryer)

i hope it helps

leigh

[Maven]

MTG, Maybe add a bit of penetrating oil to the above before you heat the casting.

[Ron B.]

I want to help but first.
Am I missing something here? :roll:

You say you moved your die over to your RCBS; and kept going. So, how is the nut still in your machine? I own the 450 and my nut and dies are two separate items. Photo included below. If the nut is stuck; it means the die cannot be removed?

To soften the wax, and to clean things up I find Charcoil lighter is grand! It also works well in barrels, cylinders to remove the gunk!And, most important is fairly safe; and cheap.

Thanks!
GRB

[ddeaton]

He broke the lip from the top of the nut which has the flange (or lip) that holds die in place. The die body will slip through the threaded portion of the nut if the lip has broken off clean. Do what all has stated above, clean and inspect. The pressure should be relieved from the threads with the head broke off, should come out fairly easy if your threads were ok before this happened.

[Shiloh]

As stated above, It needs to be warmed first. Lube will act as cement holding it in place.
It is also easy to cross-thread the nut while putting it on. when changing dies, it helps a lot if you clean up the threads as best as you can. I sure hope it in not cross threaded.

I have a couple of spares that I got from Lyman. That approach will only help after you get the broken section off. Good Luck Sir!!

Shiloh

[454PB]

Gianni, I know you gassers keep easy outs around for removing broken pipe nipples, how about using one to remove the die nut?

You would probably have to remove the ram to allow enough room to fit the easy out into the die nut.

[fastgun]

Take a ice pick and a small hammer and try tapping it out. Call Lyman (phone number on line) and they will send you a replacement. They sent me a replacement part for a 30 year old sizer free of charge. Nice folks!

[MT Gianni]

Gianni, I know you gassers keep easy outs around for removing broken pipe nipples, how about using one to remove the die nut?

You would probably have to remove the ram to allow enough room to fit the easy out into the die nut.

Ed, the 1/2 " was too small and the 3/4 would not clear the casting top. I will go home tonight and go real easy on tapping it out.

[MT Gianni]

Tried with out heat first, I am hard headed, then out the hairdryer on it and it moved the first tap when it was warm enough to see a seperation line between nut and lube. I was able to twist it out with my fingers once it was out 1/2 turn. Thanks guys, Gianni.

[9.3X62AL]

Whew!

[MT Gianni]

I considered arguing with Ly over warranty and the time to wait for a real person on the phone. Web sight showed them at a buck apiece so I ordered a couple as well a a 4 cavity repair kit I needed.

[ddeaton]

:drinks:

[rbuck351]

Measure some of your mill bastard files and find one that the end tapered part will fit into the broke off piece and cut off that piece of file about 2" long and force it into the broke off piece. Use a cresent wrench on the file piece and twist the broke piece out. May have to tap on the file part to jam it into the broke piece. It should come out fairly easily. Shouldn't hurt the threads.

[Shiloh]

Tried with out heat first, I am hard headed, then out the hairdryer on it and it moved the first tap when it was warm enough to see a seperation line between nut and lube. I was able to twist it out with my fingers once it was out 1/2 turn. Thanks guys, Gianni.

Outstanding news!!! :D

Shiloh