Lyman #2 composition - which one?

[selmerfan]

Okay, I've been searching for the Lyman #2 alloy composition and get conflicting answers. Several places say 90-5-5, several say 90-2-6 - lead-tin-antimony. Which one is right? Or does it really make a difference? I've been alloying with WW and lino to get the 90-2-6 alloy for rifle bullets and have had good success water-dropping these bullets. But now I want to alloy several hundred pounds of Lyman #2 and want to get it "right". I have a couple hundred pounds of WW, enough foundry type to alloy with it. Or should I just smelt it all into ingots and alloy as I go? What do you guys think? I also have about 100 lbs. of range lead and 150 lbs. of medical shipping container lead. Thanks!
Selmerfan

[Gohon]

90-2-6 ? Isn't that a little short of something........... I think Midway is calling 92-2-6 as a Lyman #2. I would suspect the 1% increase of antimony makes up for the 3% decrease in tin but that is just a guess on my part. Probable both are correct in terms of BHN.

[runfiverun]

#2 is 5/5 the 2/6 is terracorp magnum.
it is also what the commercial guys use,coincidentally it is also lino and pure 50-50.
they are about identical in hardness as is ww's and 20-1 pb to tin mix.
same bhn but not the same in action.

[Ole]

I'd think the 90/5/5 would work better in a hunting bullet application. 92/2/6 would be just as hard and probably a cheaper alloy, for everything else.

[mikenbarb]

Heres the 2 formulas Lyman lists in their casting books for making your own #2 alloy. Its made up from 10 parts lead, 1 part tin and 1 part antimony. They recommend a softer alloy of 1 part tin and 15 parts lead for hunting bullets because anything harder will not expand on a deer sized animal. These formulas are right out of the Lyman casting handbook.
9 lbs Wheel Weights
1 lb. 50/50 bar solder
Or,
4lbs Linotype
1lb 50/50 bar solder
5lbs pure lead

#2 alloy- 10 parts lead, 1 part tin and 1 part antimony.
#4 alloy- 1 part tin and 20 parts lead.
#6 alloy- 1 part tin and 40 parts lead.

[selmerfan]

Thanks guys and gals. The problem is, all I have are WWs, linotype, and a print metal that is close to foundry type - 61-12-27 (lead-tin-antimony). So I'm trying to alloy from that point...

Selmerfan

[Cherokee]

selmerfan --

The WWs you can use as is. The lino and foundry metals need some pure lead to cut them down to practical use alloys. I have found that, for my shooting, 1% Tin and WW's meet my handgun needs, maybe a little more antimony for mid to high speed rifle, still working on that.

Bullet fit is most important to avoid leading and promote accuracy.

[selmerfan]

I cast primarily for a .357 maximum carbine and my .30-06 and .260 Remington. I've been using water-dropped WW with decent success in the Max and water-dropped 2:1 lino:WW mix for the rifle with excellent accuracy. The 2:1 is basically a hardball alloy when I add a little tin.

[454PB]

You can't make Lyman #2 by mixing linotype with WW's. The Lyman #2 requires 5% tin, and since linotype has only 4% tin and WW about 1/2%, it can't happen. If you're willing to add some tin, then it can be done.

Since you have foundry type, mix it one-to three with pure lead and you'll have a slightly harder version of Lyman #2.

Personally, I mix monotype 50/50 with pure lead and end up with an alloy that casts beautifully and tests 20 to 21 BHN. This produces a nice shiney rifle boolit for paper punching, but a bit hard for hunting purposes. My favorite recipe for all around magnum pistol use is 75% WW and 25% monotype.

[cptkeybrd]

it's hard enuf to get ww in Kalifornia now let alone monotype, Can you suggest a good place to get that ;>]

[lwknight]

Mix yer own with the stuff from rotometals.com

[cbrick]

Mono is harder to come by anymore than WW. LW is correct, see the Roto Metals web site. You can purchase ready made alloys or the alloys needed to mix your own, which ever is your preference.

Roto Metals Bullet Casting Alloys (http://www.rotometals.com/Bullet-Casting-Alloys-s/5.htm)

Rick

[sqlbullet]

There is a nifty chart about 1/3 down on this page at the lasc site (http://www.lasc.us/Brennan_3-2_BulletCastingMetals.htm) that lists the composition of all the usual alloys.

As mentioned, you can't get to Lyman #2 with WW and Lino, as more tin is required than either of those offer. Foundry type will work.

I do suggest you alloy as you go. You can't take it back apart easily. I have lino, pure tin, tin solder, and isotope lead on hand. I picked up the lino and tin thinking I would need, but so far, I just run straight isotope lead in all my shooting. 10mm, 357, 44, 30-06, it works fine.

[cbrick]

Another option to come up with Lyman #2, Hardball etc assuming you already have a source of soft lead.

Alloying with Roto Metals Super Hard, Blending Cast Bullet Antimony Alloys (http://www.lasc.us/SuperHard.htm)

Rick

[cptkeybrd]

Is there are good source for the isotype lead
thanks

[cbrick]

Is there are good source for the isotype lead, thanks

Yes, I have a brain block at the moment and can't remember his name but a member here is selling it. Look under vendor sponsors and you should find it.

Edit: Here it is, Muddy Creek Sam,

Muddy Creek Sam (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=86491)

Rick

[Muddy Creek Sam]

Howdy Rick,

Thanks for remembering me. Got plenty if ya need some.

Sam :D

[cbrick]

Sam, I probably will but money is a bit tight right now. I'm getting a $300.00 mold, no, it's not needed, could live without it (well, almost) and yes it is quite extravagant but dang, a guy has to have his toys doesn't he. I hope to retire next year so I need to get the toys now. I got 2 of the MP 45 cal 270 gr SWC brass 4 cav ($100.00 ea) and am sending one off to Erik for his Inset-Bar assembly and Inset-Bar Extractor linkage. ($200.00+ = a $300.00 mold :veryconfu)

You are on the radar for the isotype lead. I only have about 1500 pounds in CWW & SWW right now and need to fix that before next year also.

Your isotype lead would be great (and easy) to make Lyman #2, Hardball etc from using Roto Metals Super Hard.

Rick

[geargnasher]

Rick and Cptkeybrd, it's Isotope, not "isotype". It isn't a "type" metal, it comes from radiation-proof containers for the isotopes of certain elements used in nuclear radiology. Sam is great to deal with, and offers two flavors: Ingots of 95-2.5-2.5 and the 31 lb cores which are about 96-3-1 IIRC. The Isotope containers are ready to go as-is and they cast quite well, the other ones would work fine also but might stand to be watered down a bit with WW metal to get about 95-3-2. Just my two pennies.

Gear

[cbrick]

Rick and Cptkeybrd, it's Isotope, not "isotype". Gear

Yeah, I knew that, so much for the ole cut & paste. [smilie=b:

Rick

[cptkeybrd]

Gear I knew I misspelled but want to see if you would mesh it out for us
Ha thanks

[220swiftfn]

just as an FYI, the 95/2.5/2.5 Isotope alloy is the same as Electrotype...... (Altho I might have seen E-Type listed as 95/3/2 in some places) Anyhow, 95/2.5/2.5 casts beautifully, and has a Brinell of around 12.5 IIRC...

Dan

[cbrick]

Correct Dan, I have Electrotype listed on lasc.us as 3% Sn/2.5% Sb/94.5% Pb @ 12 BHN.

Very sadly the age of free alloy is coming to an abrupt end for many of us and Muddy Creek Sam's roughly $1.00 a pound is starting to look better every day.

Rick

[220swiftfn]

Rick, I know what you mean. It seems like I have to guard my "a handshake and donuts" WW sources more than I used to..... altho, there's still a bucket of raw on the front porch that hasn't walked yet (probably because it's not copper.... ;)


Dan

[cptkeybrd]

just got 60lbs of real linotype for 61bucks shipped, he's upped the price already I think its 50lbs for 60 now, off Ebay lucked out. Next I gotta save up and get some from Muddy Creek Sam.
Let the liquid metal flow.......><(((((({*> into all those M&P molds.