.32 S&W Long - Lee expander w/ .313

[y5e06]

Howdy All
new here, great forum.
I'm also new to reloading, just starting out. I have a question pertaining to one of the first two calibers I'm starting with.
I just received Lee 3-Die Carbide set for 32 S&W Long. Within the included paperwork, one bit of info indicates "For larger diameter bullets .313-.315 inches order Oversize Expander 90445 for $3.00"
I had planned and already ordered a box of .313 100gr LRN for this. I didn't know I'd need an oversized expander.
Do I really need an oversized expander or will this set work fine with lead casts?
I've already received my latest midway order, I don't even see oversized expander 90445 on their website. I'd really hate to make a second order from some place for this once piece.
thanks

[Catshooter]

Welcome to the site.

The best answer to your question will be suppllied by your pistol. See what it likes. It's results that count, isn't it?


Cat

[y5e06]

sure, I'll try it. being new to reloading I didn't know if this typically is something that would have issues from the get go.
I don't have a press yet (hopefully, this week) or I would have just tried a few to see.

[runfiverun]

if your boolits are 313 and your sizer is 312 they will work fine together.
if it is 311 they should still be fine.
you ddo need some neck tension for powder burn after all.

[y5e06]

if your boolits are 313 and your sizer is 312 they will work fine together.
Excellent, thats what I like hearing. thanks.

[rbwillnj]

Not sure what you will be shooting your 32 S&W long in, but you really should slug the barrel to determine what bullet size you should be using. 32 wadcutter guns from different manufactures tend to have different bore sizes and require different size bullets for best accuacy. Also, 32 S&W brass from different manufactures can vary quite a bit as well, requiring different expanders.

Even 32 ACP guns can have this issue. I have a couple of old Mauser 32 ACP pocket pistols and the bores sizes at .307. Darn, I just sold a .309 sizing die.

[glicerin]

When you seat a couple of bullets, try them for fit in revolver cylinder. My colt .32 won't allow more than .312 bullet, too much bulge with brass I have. Good luck

[y5e06]

thanks for the responses.
I have everything but the press, which I'm still waiting on.
I slugged the revolver and it measured ~.3125.
I measured the boolits I have and those were .313
so it looks like the sizes are OK.

I'll be setting these up for use in an early 1900's S&W .32Long Hand Ejector Revolver(not top break) and was planning to start w/ somewhere around 1.8-2.0gr Bullseye.

[JW6108]

I also use a .32 Long Lee three die carbide set and it works fine with the expander that came with it.

I load for a 1903 Hand Ejector, 5th change, 3 1/4" barrel. You will like it, but those little knife edge front sights are tough to pick up especially when nickel like mine. The grips don't leave much to hold on to either, but they are still fun to play around with.

I recently picked up a postwar Hand Ejector, blued, 4" barrel with which I expect to do most of my .32 Long shooting from now on. It is surprising how accurate these little guns are.

Good luck with it.

[y5e06]

very nice.
Mine is a nickle plated as well but not in the best of shape. the last patent date on the barrel is 1903 (?), but I don't know the actual year. it has a 4 1/4" barrel. I've had it for years as an inheritance from my grandmother but never shot it much due to ammo costs just for plinking. Yes, those original grips leave ALOT to be desired. However, I just recently picked up some used J-Frame rosewood 3 finger grips. A little clearancing for the frame screws and slight fit mismatch and they mount quite well. Absolutely worth it if you shoot it any, and stylish enough to go with the nickel old school style. I mounted some hogue monogrips on it temporarily, they fit fine and feel quite nice but just doesn't match the style.
I'm gonna have trouble w/ that front sight, I might blacken it somehow non-destructively. Its just a plinker for me and I'm looking forward to getting it out to the range again.

[montana_charlie]

thanks for the responses.
I have everything but the press, which I'm still waiting on.
I slugged the revolver and it measured ~.3125.
I measured the boolits I have and those were .313
so it looks like the sizes are OK.
You are planning to load .313" bullets.

Lee is telling you, "For larger diameter bullets .313 -.315 inches order Oversize Expander 90445 for $3.00."

You have posted the sizes of everything you have measured, but the original question was in regard to the size of the expander.

Why haven't you measured that yet?

On the day when you have all your stuff, and sit down to load...if your expander is (say) .309" you are going to be wishing you had placed the order.

You can get it direct from Lee, and their shipping is usually a flat four bucks...for anything.

Go here http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/cart.cgi and enter that 90445 and a quantity.

CM

[9.3X62AL]

Charlie makes a good point--mike that expander spud, 'cause if it IS .309" you'll be swaging down those .313" boolits and setting up a possible bore-leading scenario--and spoiling accuracy. With most cast boolits of wheelweight alloy hardness, I like .001" to .002" of difference between my expander spud diameter and boolit diameter--no more than that. A light to moderate roll crimp will hold the boolits in place against recoil "telescoping".

[y5e06]

You have posted the sizes of everything you have measured, but the original question was in regard to the size of the expander.

Why haven't you measured that yet?


good point, for whatever reason, it just didn't occur to me.
so, I just now did that.
the expander spud or tip is just under 5/16" long as it extends from the main cylinder portion.
the diameter at the leading edge of the tip reads .309
the diameter about 1/8" up from the tip reads .310
the diameter about 3/16" up from the tip reads about .312.
it clearly has a very slight taper and I can adjust the die depth for sizing.
at the base of the tip, where it meets the larger main section reads over .320
from just over 3/16" to the base the tip/spud expands quite a bit.

the lee instructions indicates the expander moves approximately 3/8" into the shell when expanding, I suppose that is just some generic wording carried over in the instructions from other sets. The tip clearly is less than 3/8" long.

[TAWILDCATT]

those are "I" frams are they not I have a 6".The sizer will allow you to start the bullet as you want to have a flare or expanded to set the bullet in.I should check my dies as I loaded, it worked and thats all I ask.dont try to hot rod them as they are border line to black powder.:coffee:[smilie=1:

[JW6108]

those are "I" frams are they not I have a 6".The sizer will allow you to start the bullet as you want to have a flare or expanded to set the bullet in.I should check my dies as I loaded, it worked and thats all I ask.dont try to hot rod them as they are border line to black powder.:coffee:[smilie=1:

Yes, "I" frame is right. I think the postwar one I have is called an "improved I-frame", but that designation may go back further than that.

I got a little chrono work done on the 4" barrel postwar the other day; results are about what I expected.

Winchester 98 grain factory load: 687 fps.
Yes, factory load, but I got them at a hardware store a couple of years ago that was getting out of the ammunition business; they were marked down to $9/box and I bought the only two they had. They were going for $18 most places online before shipping, so thought I should jump on those.

Lee 93 grain cast, 2.4 grains/WW231: 685 fps.

Lee 93 grain cast, 2.5 grains/WW231 (MAX for 90 grain Hornady swaged bullet from Hornady manual): 726 fps. That cast bullet is a tad heavier than the swaged one, but has less bearing surface and is double lubed with LLA.

I like these, and they are reasonably priced as far as S&W's go. I guess they are not in as much demand as many of the other models.

[9.3X62AL]

700 FPS with a 95-100 grain boolit is good velocity in a S&W I/J-frame or Colt D-frame, and should shoot right to the sights--assuming you can see the skinny front sight on the early versions. Such power seems a little weak in these days of Casull and Linebaugh, but I don't think cottontails have donned Kevlar in recent years. The 32 S&W Long is VERY economical to load and shoot, and I think its small game and small varmint capabilities are several notches above a 22 LR handgun.

The RCBS 32-98-SWC is my long favorite boolit in this caliber and in the 32 Magnum as well.

[Firebird]

The "improved" I frame S&W uses a coil main spring, it's easy to tell the difference as the coil spring doesn't require the strain screw on the front of the grip that that older I-frame with it's leaf main spring required. So, small screw head on front of grip strap = old I-frame, no screw head on front of grip strap = newer "improved" I-frame, longer cylinder to fit 38 special and later even longer cylinder to fit 357 magnum = J-frame.