Best storage oil for Lyman moulds?

[zardoz]

Hello everyone.

I figure there will be differing opinions on this, and maybe it is simple, but thought I would ask.

I now have a Lyman shotgun slug mold, 12 ga 525 grain sabot slug design. I cleaned the shipping oil off with pure acetone, and brake cleaner spray, and had good success with the casting. Last week I cast myself up about 200 (drains the metal pot fast!) slugs, and I won't probably cast again for several months.

It is a bit humid out here in the Tennessee forest, and I want to be sure to prevent any possibility of rust, but also want to be able to remove the oil quickly and easily for another casting session.

What should I use? Regular motor oil?, WD-40?, or something else?

Any suggestions for preservation appreciated. I have seen too many with rust pits at gun shows and such around here.

Thanks.

[rhbrink]

CLP works for me, I live a humid area too.

[Hurricane]

I use an oil in a spray can named Ballistol - multi purpose sportsman's oil. You might find it in any gun or fishing tackle shop. I spray the cavity and then wipe a thin layer of oil on the entire surface of the mold. I degrease it before casting by washing it in denatured alcohol, available in paint stores or home improvement stores. After using I pour the alcohol back into the can for future use. This can is dedicated to cleaning molds. I do not recycle used to clean paint brushes or other clean up jobs. Probably any type of oil intended to protect metal from rust would do a good job.

[monadnock#5]

WD-40 has always worked well for me. I wash it off with hot water and Dawn dish washing detergent on a toothbrush. The washing has a side benefit of giving me something to do while waiting for the casting pot to come up to temp.

[Huntducks]

Real simple I vacume seal mine.

Any good gun oil will work.

[missionary5155]

Good evening
I regularly store my molds (in Illinois) for 2.5 years. I simply smear each inside and out with what ever motor oil I have handy. I then wrap eack mold in wax paper and one wrap of masking tape. On the tape I write what the mold is. These molds are stored as such in flat card board boxes 1 layer deep and about 30 per box by mold caliber.
I have several molds that were wrapped over 10 years and when again used NO Rust. I have been doing this for 24 years and will return this May and start casting up NORTH again.
Break cleaner or whatever solvient is handy is what I clean them with. When finished (I cast whatever amount I estimate I will shoot in 6 months) I rewrap ready for storage.
God Bless you.

[John Boy]

It's been said that mineral oil is a good oil to coated stored dies with. And don't believe that EeZox is too shappy either ... http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=45957&highlight=eezox

[zardoz]

Thanks for the replies.

I had not thought about the vacuum packer, and I do have one.

I'll use a little regular gun oil, and put it in a food saver vacuum bag. That will probably "bulletproof" it from rust.

[MtGun44]

Dry in ammo can with dessicant. No need to clean, will never rust.

Bill

[Huntducks]

Thanks for the replies.

I had not thought about the vacuum packer, and I do have one.

I'll use a little regular gun oil, and put it in a food saver vacuum bag. That will probably "bulletproof" it from rust.

They work great I vac. seal all kinds of stuff I have one in the house for food and my first one I bought 10yrs ago in my loading room, I bought used a 1/2doz or so of the food save canisters and store clean ready to use brass in them.

Watch the edges of the mould that it dosen't poke a hole in the bag if it does or looks like it will cut an old sock and put it in toe.

Have fun.

[Bret4207]

Dry in ammo can with dessicant. No need to clean, will never rust.

Bill

Bingo! I don't oil my moulds anymore. My "ammo can" is a dead refrigerator with a large desiccant box and a 25 watt light bulb inside to keep things dry. Works great.

[Shepherd2]

I've had boolit moulds for over 40 years and I've never oiled one for storage. I wrap them in Gun Wrap Paper from Brownells and put them in an ammo can with a good seal. I've never had a mould rust and when I want to use one it's ready to go with no need to clean off the oil or grease.

[Greg5278]

Use a VCI bag from Lee valley or Japan woodworker. They have the zip lock seal. You won't need to oil them or degrease them before use. I think they run like $8 for 5 bags or so.
Greg

[Dale53]

Motor oil is a terrible rust prentative. If you don't believe it look at the lower end of any auto engine. They will be rust from one end to the other.

However, Dexron II or III is a superb rust preventative. Not much more expensive than motor oil and MUCH better.

I live in a climate controlled house so don't worry about rust. However, when I had to store things in an unheated garage, you can be sure I protected it.

My cleaning method is to first use a solvent. Then I use Dawn dishwashing solution and a toothbrush (not mine[smilie=1:) tp scrub it thoroughly, then dry and pre-heat before casting.

Dale53

[44man]

I would not use anything that dries like WD-40. Long term storage will harden the stuff so nothing will remove it. WD-40 is BAD for preventing rust. I used to spray my painted metal stands on my wood working tools and they rusted BAD. My newer tools have been in the garage for years with zero rust because I keep WD-40 away from them. I wax the cast iron parts and leave the bases alone.
I use WD-40 for a lube when I cut a mold but it is washed off right away.

[monadnock#5]

I'm sure you have moulds older than I am 44man, so I would certainly defer to your longevity and wisdom. All I can say is that with WD-40 I have no issues with rust, and I've never had a mould that wouldn't clean up and cast good boolits using Dawn, a toothbrush and hot water.

[Gerry N.]

I have a home made welding rod box that I keep molds, dies, and welding rods in. It's made of 1/2" plywood, has four expanded metal shelves with two 120v 40W light bulbs wired in series in porcelain lamp holders screwed to the bottom. Those bulbs have been burning since 1945 when the man who built the box plugged 'em in. All they do is keep the air moving. The box has several 1" holes in the bottom of the door and several more in the top of the back. Anything in that box stays crispy dry for decades.

WD-40 is 99% kerosene. For long term, meaning 50 or more years, storage use liquid alox, that's what it was originally made for.

Gerry N.

[Slow Elk 45/70]

Good Post ! Lots of info here for all. Thanks, I also use a vacume sealer for small parts, tools that I am going to put up for undetermined amounts of time. Alox for preservative.