Lyman 452460 ?

[Slinger]

How does the Lyman 452460 200 gr SWC stack up against the H&G 68 Style boolit in terms of accuracy? In the past I've shot alot of the commercial 200 gr SWC in 45 acp that were cast from Magma moulds, and accuracy has been excellent. Now that I'm back into casting, I want a four-holer in 200 gr. SWC, but I want to know it's an accurate design to start with.

[Randall]

I have one and they shoot just as well as a commercial #68 in my Nowlin. I can get 2" 25 yard groups off the bench with either bullet. I obviously am not the best accuracy wise but it works for me.

[beagle]

I've shot loads and loads of each bullet since 1958 and either will do the job in an outstanding manner.

I'm partial to the casting ability of H & G moulds but other than that, there's not a whit of difference./beagle

[Slinger]

Thanks! I've got two 45's, one Full-Blown Custom I had made in 1985, and a Kimber Eclipse Target. Both guns will shoot a GOOD 200 gr. SWC into 1" or less for 5 shots @ 25 yds. off of bags. Although I use them both for defensive type shooting & I don't usually need that degree of accuracy, it's nice to know the guns/ammo will do it! I think I'll go for the Lyman Mould then.

[kawalekm]

This particular bullet has become a mission from God for me. Lyman's recommende OAL for the .45 ACP is 1.160" and at that length it would stovepipe every other round. After doing some research I read that increasing the OAL improves feeding, which I found to be true. By increasing OAL to 1.175" I got it to feed properly, but the slide would not move forward far enough to lock. I ended up buying a taper crimp to reduce the mouth diameter to about 0.474" and now rounds will finally feed properly. Accuracy of this bullet is about 2.5" at 25yards. It is good though at cutting very neat round holes in paper.
Michael

[Slinger]

Geez, My OAL is 1.250" on both guns using the 200 grSWC. I taper crimp to .472" and never had a problem with the load/bullet in either gun.

[txbirdman]

I have the 452460; the RCBS 200 SWC; and my buddy's RCBS 201. My favorite of the 3 is the RCBS 201. I seat the bullets so that the base of the brass is even with the back of the barrel hood and I sure can't seat the 452460 or the RCBS 200 out to 1.250. It is possible to seat the 201 to that length and get it to work but it's still too far out for my 45. The shorter bullets have resulted in stove pipe feeding problems with certain mags but the 201 feeds flawlessly and is a flat base design which I prefer over the H&G 68. It's also just as accurate as the other two in my pistol.

[Slinger]

I've shot loads and loads of each bullet since 1958 and either will do the job in an outstanding manner.

I'm partial to the casting ability of H & G moulds but other than that, there's not a whit of difference./beagle

Out of my two guns, it doesn't seem to make a whole lotta' difference in powder charge. I use WW-231 and can load anywhere from 5.1 grains to 5.6 grains and the Commercial 200 grainers will shoot extremely well. I've got some Saeco 200 grSWC that will shoot under an inch.

[Slinger]

I have the 452460; the RCBS 200 SWC; and my buddy's RCBS 201. My favorite of the 3 is the RCBS 201. I seat the bullets so that the base of the brass is even with the back of the barrel hood and I sure can't seat the 452460 or the RCBS 200 out to 1.250. It is possible to seat the 201 to that length and get it to work but it's still too far out for my 45. The shorter bullets have resulted in stove pipe feeding problems with certain mags but the 201 feeds flawlessly and is a flat base design which I prefer over the H&G 68. It's also just as accurate as the other two in my pistol.

What stops your gun from handling an overall cartridge length of 1.250", using the 200 gr. cast SWC? What type of 45 is it?

[Randall]

It's not the OAL you want to watch,It's the shoulder of the top band you want even with or just above the case mouth.

[Slinger]

Yeah, I know about headspace. I've never had any problems in 35 years or so except for my Taurus PT945 won't feed them reliably at that length. Most 45 acp brass I shoot is below the max length so it doesn't make any difference, even tho the case does headspace off the mouth. As long as it chambers & slide is fully in battery, you're good to go.

[MtGun44]

You want the shoulder about .010" to .040" above the case, depending
on your chamber design. 1.250 should work fine with any 1911.

My best ever groups (about 0.9" at 25 yds) in a 1911 have come with the
452460 over 3.5 Titegroup. More powder opens the groups noticably and
neither commercial H&G 68 copies or personal castings from my real H&G 68
mold have matched it yet in any of my 1911s. RCBS 200SWC has been very
good also, but not quite up with the 452460.

Bill

[Slinger]

I've not been able to get Titegroup to shoot that well in my 45s. Like I said, I managed to shoot a 7/8" group with the 200 gr Saeco (#069) and 5.4 gr. of WW-231. For whatever reason 231 shoot well in my 45s. I'll have to try your load this spring and see what it'll do in my guns.

[BD]

I shot a lot of the 452460s for Bullseye and action pistol. The 452260 is Lymans version of the H&G #130, shorter nose and more bearing surface than the #68. IMO the double lube grooves make it a little trickier to get the OAL "just right". 1.20 worked great for me. This boolit shot significantly better at 50 yards for me than any of the H&G #68 designs. And as a big plus the 2 smaller lube grooves carry less lube, and burn much less lube, so less smoke and more rounds between cleanings.

Those of you who prefer the H&G #68 style could probably achieve similar benefits by purchasing additional lube grooves from Waksupi to use with your #68s :)

BD

[Chunky Monkey]

Just thought I would use this thread rather than starting a new one.

I just got the 2 cavity 452460 last week and cast some boolits. I checked some with my calipers (don't have a micrometer) and they are right about .452. I went to size them today using a 452 sizing die and I can push them down into the sizer with my finger.

What should they be dropping at? Is the mould dropping them a little small or should I just lube em and shoot em?

[Slinger]

What alloy are you using? I'm thinking they should drop out @ .453" or .454". using Lyman #2 or equiv.

[Chunky Monkey]

using wheel weight lead!

[z4lunch]

Mine drop around 454 to 455 with ww
Steve

[Bret4207]

Just thought I would use this thread rather than starting a new one.

I just got the 2 cavity 452460 last week and cast some boolits. I checked some with my calipers (don't have a micrometer) and they are right about .452. I went to size them today using a 452 sizing die and I can push them down into the sizer with my finger.

What should they be dropping at? Is the mould dropping them a little small or should I just lube em and shoot em?

How do you know what size your sizer is if you don't have a mic? It might be .453 or 4 . Just because it's marked .452 doesn't mean it is. Spend $10.00 and get an inexpensive mic and make sure it has a standard to measure against.

[Chunky Monkey]

How do you know what size your sizer is if you don't have a mic? It might be .453 or 4 . Just because it's marked .452 doesn't mean it is. Spend $10.00 and get an inexpensive mic and make sure it has a standard to measure against.

Do you know of a place to get one that cheap? I'll have to pick one up.

[Slinger]

using wheel weight lead!

According to what I've read here on the forum, you ought to add a couple of feet of 95-5 Lead Free Solder to about 10 lb wheelweights. It will allow better "Castability". Sounds like a George Bush word, huh?

[anachronism]

Does it really matter if they're the size you want & get lubed satisfactorily? Each mould is a law unto itself. I have my Star dies made slightly large so I can avoid sizing the bullets as much as possible. My 45 ACP sizer is a .453, I want it to be tight enough to lube the bullet, but bullets seem to be at their best when they are unsized. .453 chambers fine in all my 45s.




Just thought I would use this thread rather than starting a new one.

I just got the 2 cavity 452460 last week and cast some boolits. I checked some with my calipers (don't have a micrometer) and they are right about .452. I went to size them today using a 452 sizing die and I can push them down into the sizer with my finger.

What should they be dropping at? Is the mould dropping them a little small or should I just lube em and shoot em?

[Bret4207]

Do you know of a place to get one that cheap? I'll have to pick one up.

Ebay, Harbor Frieght, Northern Tool. Any of the Chiwanese 1" mics are good enough for what we do as long as you have a standard to measure against. If you don't want cheapy-cheap cruise Ebay and get a used Starret, B+S, Lufkin, Mitutoyo, etc. Still should be under $20-25.00 with shipping.

[Chunky Monkey]

How do you know what size your sizer is if you don't have a mic? It might be .453 or 4 . Just because it's marked .452 doesn't mean it is. Spend $10.00 and get an inexpensive mic and make sure it has a standard to measure against.

BINGO! You hit the nail on the head. I got a micrometer at Harbor Freight ($19.99) and my 452 sizer die is sizing to 453. I checked some other boolits I have sized. Is this common with sizer dies?

The other boolits I have sized in it shoot just fine. Guess I'll run some thru it to lube them and see how they shoot.

Thanks for your help guys I really appreciate it!!!