Mold alignment problem

[HangFireW8]

Hi,

I have a brand new Lyman 311 041EV mold. I just used it for the second time, and this time got the mold temp and melt temp right and finally dropped some nice looking boolits.

However, when I mic'ed them, measuring just to one side of the mold half line, they measure .307-.308 and just on the other side measure .309-.310.

Most measure .307 versus .310. I would post a picture, but there's nothing much to see unless you are using a micrometer. The mold faces were clean when I started and checked throughout the casting session. They are on good Lyman double handles are move freely and seem to lock up OK when put together.

I am not too happy with this, basically an entire afternoon wasted. :groner:

Should I return this mold to Lyman? Any other ideas?

-HF

[supv26]

My Lee mold will sometimes throw an offset boolit. I have cleaned, checked and lubed it but every once in a while I will have a boolit that is not right. What I do is after I drop one set of boolits I close the mold and then, with my gloves on of course, I press the two halves together making sure they are even. Then I close the sprue making sure the halves stay together properly.

After doing this a few times it becomes routine and you can learn to do it fast enough so your fingers don't get hot.

Cast on....................:Fire:

[HangFireW8]

My Lee mold will sometimes throw an offset boolit

What do you do when it casts 100 offset boolits in a row, with the molds and sprue plate carefully closed each time and checked often for lead splatter?

-HF

[BPCR Bill]

Hangfire, are there any burrs or peening around the alignment pin holes? These blocks are cut on cherries so you can't expect the quality of a lathe bored mold, but offset bullets like that are unacceptable, even for a cherry cut block. If I were you I would call Lyman and talk to them.

Regards,
Bill

[supv26]

What do you do when it casts 100 offset boolits in a row, with the molds and sprue plate carefully closed each time and checked often for lead splatter?

-HF

Oh man, that is an issue! I can catch mine everytime and make the necessary corrections. I would say that is a defect in the mold. I would see if it could be replaced.

[jdgabbard]

I've had a similar problem with my .356-124-RNTL mold from LEE. If I don't inspect the BOTTOM of the block to ensure that the mold is properly closed I get out of round, or lop sided boolits. Sometimes with fins that look like the paddles on ships from the days of the vikings. You might inspect to make sure the mold is properly closed every time. May help.

[HangFireW8]

I've had a similar problem with my .356-124-RNTL mold from LEE. If I don't inspect the BOTTOM of the block to ensure that the mold is properly closed I get out of round, or lop sided boolits. Sometimes with fins that look like the paddles on ships from the days of the vikings. You might inspect to make sure the mold is properly closed every time. May help.

I have a Lee mold just like that, too. It has to be coaxed to lock up correctly.

However, the Lyman mold locks up tight each and every time, top and bottom, easily... just with an offset. Once shut I am able to shift the two halves back and forth some. I'm thinking maybe pushing the alignment pins forward some might fix it. I did that to fix up a beater mold I picked up on fleaBay. However I'm not going to do that on a new mold and possibly void the warranty. Besides, it should just work.

I've had enough of it. I've already boxed it up and printed a USPS Click-n-Ship label. Lyman service has been good to me in the past, we'll see how they do this time.

I'll start a new thread once I get it back and test it.

-HF

[HeavyMetal]

I'm thinking the alignment pins need to be driven out of the block to better engage the holes on the other half of the mold blocks.

To late now you've got her boxed up and ready to go but I bet thats what Lyman's sevice center tells you the problem was.

[HangFireW8]

Yes, I'm replying to my own post. :roll:


I am not too happy with this, basically an entire afternoon wasted. :groner:

I shouldn't be so negative. I have to remind myself that I also smelted a few pounds of wheel weights, and made ingots of a bunch of scrap bullets and battery terminals I had lying around. My next casting session will be well supplied.

I'm feeling better now that the problem child mold is back in the box and ready to go back to the mother ship.

-HF

[carpetman]

HangFirew8---Why dont you not only reply to your own post---why don't you hijack the thread and chew yourself out? I think that would be a first.

[HangFireW8]

Got my mold back, looks like Lyman did me good.

It now locks up tight and square, and they recut it from .308 to .311, for $0.00.

I'll report more once I get a chance to cast with it.

-HF

[mrbill2]

Good luck ! I returned a mold to Lyman on Dec.31 2008. I still haven't received a repaired or exchange mold.
Mr. Bill2




Hi,

I have a brand new Lyman 311 041EV mold. I just used it for the second time, and this time got the mold temp and melt temp right and finally dropped some nice looking boolits.

However, when I mic'ed them, measuring just to one side of the mold half line, they measure .307-.308 and just on the other side measure .309-.310.

Most measure .307 versus .310. I would post a picture, but there's nothing much to see unless you are using a micrometer. The mold faces were clean when I started and checked throughout the casting session. They are on good Lyman double handles are move freely and seem to lock up OK when put together.

I am not too happy with this, basically an entire afternoon wasted. :groner:

Should I return this mold to Lyman? Any other ideas?

-HF

[Ben]

A real surprise to me that Lyman would re-cut the mold. I'd have thought that they would simply send another mold ( would probably be cheaper for them in the long run ).

At any rate, if you've got round bullets at .311, sounds like you're good to go now.......

[jforwel]

My first Lee mould became misaligned after my first casting session. I thought it was from the bullet lube I used to lube the guide ribs and pins and had to use a gloved hand for each closing. The lube looked burnt and I thought it was preventing the two sides from sliding together. BUT then I got my first bottle of Bull Plate lube and now the mould halves just slide right together. Get some Bull Plate for the Lee moulds.