Improving on Lee...

[jdgabbard]

I've been thinking about this for a little while. But never have really decided to do anything about it. So here we go. Convince me.

1st - On my two cavity 158g-TL-SWC, in the cavity closest to the handles I never seem to get a base that is perfectly filled out. I ladle pour. Usually pouring that cavity first, then quickly switching to the next. And it never fails. The front cavity gets a perfect fillout, and the back doesn't. What can be done to fix this?

2nd - On the Lee molds they all have a bevel'd base. Has anybody tried opening these up to get a flat base? If so, how did you do it?

[snaggdit]

My Lee 356-125 2R has a straight base. So does my Lee 452-200 RF. My 402 has the bevel, though, and makes seating in a less flaired case easier. I use a bottom pour and have no trouble with either cavity on any of my Lee molds. Can't speak to ladle pouring.

[dromia]

1st - On my two cavity 158g-TL-SWC, in the cavity closest to the handles I never seem to get a base that is perfectly filled out. I ladle pour. Usually pouring that cavity first, then quickly switching to the next. And it never fails. The front cavity gets a perfect fillout, and the back doesn't. What can be done to fix this?

2nd - On the Lee molds they all have a bevel'd base. Has anybody tried opening these up to get a flat base? If so, how did you do it?


You might want to try just kissing the top edge of the mold where the two halves meet from the problem cavity to the outside edge of the mould with a file to allow the air to vent off.

Taking the bevel out shouldn't be too difficult if you have the right tools and skills. I've had gas check steps taken out by lathe smiths who have told me its an easy job. Not something I'd try myself as I know my limitations. :roll:

[Bret4207]

It could be venting or it could be that cavity wants something different. How are you filling? Are you doing it keeping the ladle in contact with the sprue hole? If so try dropping the lead in from an inch above the hole, or vice-versa. Fill out of the base is usually either a temp problem in that area of the mould or a venting issue. If you cast faster so the mould gets hotter, does the issue change at all?

Lots of little things to try. Use your imagination and try a few things to see if they help. Sometimes just loosening the sprue plate a tiny amount will fix it.

[Maven]

jdg, Sometimes it's a matter of HOW you fill the cavities. (I have the same problem with my Lyman #358429). Have you tried filling the front cavity with the ladle say 1" above the sprue plate v. in contact with it if venting isn't an issue? Also, some Lee molds cast better at ~750 deg. F initially, and ~720 deg. when they're fully warmed up, so you may want to look at the alloy temperature as well.

[jdgabbard]

I'll try the temp option me thinks. As i usually get a few VERY light wrinkles on my boolits, but at the same time some of them look like they have frosting and wrinkles. I know a contradiction. I think they are just from improper fillout.

I do poor about 1/2" above the plate, and don't know if I can accomplist 1" atm. I am currently using a lee ladle, so untill i invest in a Lyman or the likes, I better stick to 1/2" I do plan on upgrading to a bottom pour soon tho...

As for question #2, anybody know if this is something that Buckshot does? If so, I'm thinking about having that mold sent off to him anyways to have one of the cavities HP'd

[HeavyMetal]

I'm not sure if removing the Bevel is something Buckshot will do, however I have had him HP a mold or two for me and I don't think the Lee's can be done because of the locating pins and where they are in the Lee two bangers.

However Buckshot is a wizard at such things and if it can be done he will know how!

I am curious as to his answer so please keep us updated.

[jdgabbard]

Really? I thought I had heard of him doing a couple of the Lee molds before. I was wondering what he did about the locating pins. (Maybe just relocated) Kinda discouraging. I was wanting this 9mm with a HP for taking "waskley wabbits" and the likes.

[mag_01]

It seems we all do the same procedure over and over again --- what I tried was alternating filling the front first and then the back one first there by keeping both front and back cavity at a similar temperature. Lee mould (aluminum) heats quick cools quick. IF observing sprue change the first filled sprue will change a little sooner than rear sprue.


I'm amazed at the empty racks in stores and sold out produts at distributers --- talking AR15s hanguns and ammo --- 223 is drying up

Gold Cisco --- No Poncho more Lead Lead:Fire::Fire::Fire::castmine:

[jdgabbard]

Well if that was the case you'd think that the cavity that has the problem wouldn't be the one having the problem, as I fill that one first every time. I don't know, gonna have to play with it a bit. Still need to sand the tops of the blocks and the bottom of the sprue plate with some 600 grit to get rid of the galls. I'll probably try going with a little looser tension on the screw to see if the extra venting helps any. I would clean up the vent lines, but their so tiny I'm afraid I'd mess them up.

[zxcvbob]

The vents may be clogged. That will cause exactly the problem you are having.

[mag_01]

I have no problem casting with Lee moulds but a base not filling out sounds like not enough sprue. Lay a larger sprue or connect the two together. The base draws from the sprue to fill out. (as it cools)

[superior]

I used to have the same problem with my 2 lee molds. First, make sure the melt is hot enough. That helped. The second thing I tried was to modify my ladle spout to pour a thinner stream which eliminated the problem completely. Now I get almost 0 rejects. I was getting 10 percent rejects before. I can even leave a smaller sprue now wich lets me cast faster.
Problem SOLVED !

[Recluse]

1st - On my two cavity 158g-TL-SWC,

2nd - On the Lee molds they all have a bevel'd base. Has anybody tried opening these up to get a flat base? If so, how did you do it?

:confused:

I have a Lee TL158SWC and it doesn't have a bevel base. It's one of my top three producing moulds, as a matter of fact.

However, I do have to run it hot. I run all the aluminum (Lee) moulds pretty hot--between 800F and 900F, with running the TL moulds on the higher end to get well defined lube bands.

Can't remember if I've tried ladle-pouring with the TL moulds. I've ladle-poured with good success with other Lee moulds in my inventory. But I have a Lyman ladle and it holds temp better than the Lee ladle I use to scrape the pot.

Goes without saying, but have you completely and thoroughly Lee-mented the mould?

:coffee:

[Leftoverdj]

JD. my guess is that you are switching too quickly. Try getting a generous sprue on the problem cavity before switching. If that does not work, try jamming the problem cavity right up against the spout so the full weight of the alloy column forces alloy into that cavity.

[Buckshot]

Really? I thought I had heard of him doing a couple of the Lee molds before. I was wondering what he did about the locating pins. (Maybe just relocated) Kinda discouraging. I was wanting this 9mm with a HP for taking "waskley wabbits" and the likes.

............Nope. Can't HP the Lee 1 and 2 cavity mould because of that waskley locating pin (roller bearing) they use. It would probably be possible to shorten it to clear a HP pin. A member here posted pic's and a video of his HPing a Lee mould on the "Special Projects" forum. Another possibility would be to remove it altogether and substitute a common alignment pin and bushed receiving hole to clear the HP pin.

The problem with this is that you'd have about twice as much money tied up in mould mods as you paid for the durn thing to begin with :-)

..............Buckshot