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pharmpoke
02-02-2009, 06:39 PM
I've messed with the Lyman 4500 and 50/50 lyman lube, 158gr SWC & 245gr SWC RCBS bullets and sizing dies (raised/lowered die, warmer/cooler lube, more/less pressure on ratchet, etc.) and still every bullet base has a film of lube that needs wiped off after sizing; is this normal? What's the best fix?

codgerville@zianet.com
02-02-2009, 08:52 PM
Are they gas check bullets? If so, sometimes the bottom punch will not seal well enough on the gas check to prevent lube leaking past it. Lyman bottom punches have a slight cup in the top surface. Have a close look at this and see if there is a nick or some irregularity. I have the same problem when using RCBS dies as their punches are flat on top. I have had to chuck some of both brands in the lathe and face them off a little to cure this.

pharmpoke
02-02-2009, 09:08 PM
these are plain based bullets

454PB
02-02-2009, 11:23 PM
The best fix is to replace it with a Star sizer.

Actually, I learned long ago to keep a shop towel next to my Lyman sizers and swipe the base of each sized boolit before stacking them in their container.

Some boolits are worse than others, it depends on their fit in the die and the fit of the nose punch. Some nose punches will actually "grab" the boolit nose and lift it slightly before the ejection punch begins moving. The result is that pressurized lube runs between the boolit base and the ejection punch. The result is lube stuck on the base.

DLCTEX
02-03-2009, 11:01 AM
I cut a styrofoam washer from a carry out tray using a cartridge case for a cutter (drill through the primer hole to allow punch out). Place the washer on top of the punch. It may have to be replaced every thousand boolits or so. The styrofoam seals the base and keeps lube out.

Cherokee
02-03-2009, 02:00 PM
Be using Lyman 45,450,4500 sizers and the only time I get the lube bottom is when the bullet base is not sharp and square. Rounded or bevel base bullets will allow a leak.

skeet1
02-03-2009, 05:26 PM
Just keep wiping.

Skeet1

RugerBob
02-03-2009, 06:33 PM
I usually plug my heater in for about a half hour. Its in my basement and cooler then the rest of the house. Then start sizing. If the lube gets to warm I have the same issues your talkin about. It took me a while, but figured out a time line versus room temp and don't have that issue near as often as before. So, after sizing a few I unplug the heater for 30 mins or so and reheat every so often. Depending on how long you wanna sit there. I use the orange magic and black moly lubes. I have the 4500 sizer-heater. I actually e-mailed the Lyman people and they said I was getting my lube to hot.Been workin great since. Just my 2 cents , Bob

dromia
02-03-2009, 08:33 PM
I cut a styrofoam washer from a carry out tray using a cartridge case for a cutter (drill through the primer hole to allow punch out). Place the washer on top of the punch. It may have to be replaced every thousand boolits or so. The styrofoam seals the base and keeps lube out.


Concurr, simple with a certain elegance. :-D

sniper7369
02-04-2009, 04:30 AM
I cut a styrofoam washer from a carry out tray using a cartridge case for a cutter (drill through the primer hole to allow punch out). Place the washer on top of the punch. It may have to be replaced every thousand boolits or so. The styrofoam seals the base and keeps lube out.

That is a brilliant idea! Simple solution to a VERY annoying problem. I'm going to try that tomorrow when I size all the 9mm boolits I cast today. :drinks:

DLCTEX
02-04-2009, 09:18 AM
The styrofoam washer idea did not originate with me, I picked it up here on the forum. Great place!

HORNET
02-06-2009, 08:05 AM
Another solution is to take the ejection pin out of the sizing die, put it in a lathe, and center drill the end to leave a band about 1/16- 3/32 wide for the boolit to contact (think .312 diameter for a .429 sizer, for example). This relieves the center of the pin to allow clearance for any sprue 'nubs' to go into and allows for more actual unit contact pressure where the boolit does contact, which reduces leakage under the base. Some like to drill a hole all the way through the pin, but it's not hard to clean it out once in a while. Also works on bevel-bases if you leave enough band width to still contact the flat on the boolit base. Unlike the styrofoam, it doesn't wear out.

markinalpine
10-13-2009, 03:31 PM
First the good news:
I'm picking up a lot of good tips while waiting for my Lyman 4500. Should be here tomorrow. :bigsmyl2:

The bad news? I didn't even think to look at the Swapping and Selling Forum, and someone posted a 4500 for sale at a little less than what I've paid. Oh well.

Should have done more research first. :groaner:

Mark :coffeecom

qajaq59
10-13-2009, 04:55 PM
First the good news:
I'm picking up a lot of good tips while waiting for my Lyman 4500. Should be here tomorrow. :bigsmyl2:

The bad news? I didn't even think to look at the Swapping and Selling Forum, and someone posted a 4500 for sale at a little less than what I've paid. Oh well.

Should have done more research first. :groaner:

Mark :coffeecom
Ahhhh.... But the one you bought was actually better, so you got a great deal!!! :smile: