Lee Mold Lubrication

[Jerry11826]

What do you guys use for lubricating your Lee six cavity molds? I started out with the bullet lube I was using - Lee stick - and that seemed to build up on the locating pins and make the mold hard to close. Then I tried 90 wt. gear lube - I have some as I use it for chain lube on my motorcycle and that didn't work much better.

Is there a secret formulea?

Thanks,

Jerry

[MT Gianni]

Bullplate lube from Bullshop works the best. In a pinch until you get some ordered, you can use silver anti-sieze from an auto parts store. A little goes a long ways with both of those products.

[j20owner]

From what everyone here tells me, Bullshop Sprueplate lube is the best to use. I have a check ready to send to him when I get to the P.O. There's a link to his website at the bottom of this page. Click on 'The Bullshop' and you'll find it.

I'm sure others will be along shortly to explain further. Yep, I was right.

[Ben]

Jerry11826 :

A VERY small amount of this works wonders
most auto parts stores carry it , this tube would last the
average caster a lifetime for your particular application :

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=antiseize

[DLCTEX]

Bullplate=no messy carbon buildup and much easier cutting of the sprue due to being able to cut hotter without smearing.

[montana_charlie]

When drilling metal, some form of 'lube' keeps the heat down and makes the bit last longer.
For aluminum, water makes a pretty good 'lube'.

Many water pumps will burn up their bearings if they are run without 'lube'. The water flowing through the pump is (frequently) the 'lube' that keeps it working.

When guys make their own bullet 'lube', they are careful to keep it from overheating. Once it starts to carbonize, it is ruined.

Then, a guy starts wondering what he should use to 'lube' a bullet mould.
He knows that a 500 degree metal block can't use water...even though that is a approved 'lube' for other applications.
But, what makes it seem reasonable to use the same substance that can't be allowed to carbonize...which happens if it gets over the boiling point of water?

How about motor oil? An engine block stays around 200 degrees, and the coolant in the radiator works hard to keep it that way. So, motor oil isn't made for a 500 degree application, either.
And 90 weight gear 'lube'? Did you ever drain a 'hot' gear case? The oil feels hot, but it doesn't cause blisters on your hand. It is (what?) about 150 degrees?
Obviously not a 500 degree 'lube'.

There are lubricants out there which are designed for high temperature applications. Anti-seize is rated for 1000+ degrees. Graphite is dry stuff, and is already 'carbonized', so it can't be damaged by hot stuff (within reason).
I don't know what's in Bullplate, but if it made crusty deposits (like all wax-based substances) nobody would use it on a mould.

Yet half of the casting fraternity is convinced that beeswax, crayons, and candles make good 'lube' for bullet moulds.

It's beyond me...

CM

[Jerry11826]

I think I see the error of my ways - I used bullet lube because that was what Lee recommended - I used 90wt gear lube because I had some in the garage - after the comments - I will get some anti - seize compound today - after you read Montana Charlie's post - it is all that makes sense.

Thanks again,

Jerry

[Orygun]

You really should consider Bullplate. It just plain works!!!

[montana_charlie]

I used bullet lube because that was what Lee recommended I understand.
I used beeswax (when I was casting round ball in the '60's and '70's) because Lyman recommended it.

About the same time I came to understand that the wax was causing problems, I quit casting and went to play in the jungles.
When I re-started a couple of years ago, I knew I didn't want to repeat those old mistakes.

I haven't used Bullplate, but I would if I had some.
Meanwhile, anti-sieze and graphite get me by...
CM

[catkiller45]

Sounds to me like you put TOO MUCH on..It only takes a tiny bit...Good luck...

[putteral]

I use silicone spray with great success.

[sniper7369]

Darn, I have a BIG industrial size bottle (1 lb) of Locktite anti-seize in the shop and it never even occurred to me to use it to lube my molds. :groner:

[montana_charlie]

Sounds to me like you put TOO MUCH on..
Too much of what...?

[catkiller45]

Too much of what...?

too much lube-----:violin::violin::violin:

[superior]

Like Putteral, I use silicone spray. My Lee instructions recommend it. I find that I can spray it on every part of the mold including the cavities with no ill effects whatsoever.

[dromia]

Bullplate just works, no carbon build up, no mess and a slick working mould.

Its especially good on Lee/aluminium moulds where the steel(?) pins and sprue plate meets the aluminium, the steel will win everytime so a good lube is essential for longevity and to prevent binding.