Some lathe jewelery and a hollow pointer

[Buckshot]

http://www.fototime.com/1BDF8B9CF2C77FA/standard.jpg

Ya make this stuff by the bag. I think it's kinda neat, but it still goes in the trash. Kinda like spent primers, I wish I knew something to do with it.

http://www.fototime.com/E353D1C4CCDB2D9/standard.jpg

And this is where the lathe jewelery came from :D A setup to hollowpoint 45 ACP's. On the left is the shellholder. Kind of like the Lee case trimmer in that there is a threaded spud (not in the photo) you twist to keep the cartidge in the shellholder. Next is the body you set over the cartridge. Has a rubber 'O' ring inside to help hold the case.

Next is the hollowpointer holder dumaflatchie set up to hold a #4 centerdrill so you can get a double whammy hollowpoint, er something. Then on the right is another to just hold a piloted drill bit, so you get a 2 diameter HP cavity.

Now to make some more swage dies :lol:

.................Buckshot

[PPlinker]

You could save it up and sell it or give it to someone who deals in scrap metal. Prices must be pretty high... see ads in paper now people will come to your house to haul off old appliances, junk cars or anything metal.

Penny

[Buckshot]

You could save it up and sell it or give it to someone who deals in scrap metal. Prices must be pretty high... see ads in paper now people will come to your house to haul off old appliances, junk cars or anything metal.

Penny

............I was just kidding. I imagine in a month I could mash it all down into a grocery bag. Actually, if you wash the cutting lube off its supposed to be good for plants? The iron in it I suppose. I can see Donna's roses with a ring of swarf around each one, happily rusting away in the sunshine!

..............Buckshot

[Ballistics in Scotland]

If it was stainless steel or brass, you could use it as aggregate to get the ultimate strength in concrete. (I think plain steel would tend to rust, expand and crack the stuff.) If it was put in slabs or concrete or resin and ground flat, it would make an amazing-looking patio. Or with fine swarf and some kind of plastic that could be slightly dissolved with a solvent afterwards, it would give about the ultimate grip in knife or tool handles. Spin the handle mould at high speed while it sets, and most of the metal would be drawn to the surface.

[Swagerman]

Hello, everyone. Newbie here on the boards. Name is Swagerman, as I like to swage lead bullets.

However, I was greatly interested in Buckshot's lathe work on the HP and HB die accessories he made.

Wish I had his skill and equipment to fabricate such items. Guess that's why I resorted to swaging boolits with a limited lathe capability...on the job training, monkey see, monkey doo doo.

I've made a few crude nose punches that more or less give shootable results on the finished product...and can make HB or HP at the same time or make them in seperate fashion.

If I had a milling machine my efforts might turn out a little better, but so far only have in shop a cheapy Harbor Freight 7X10 mini-lathe.

Can make a pretty good SWC, but my efforts to make a flat top round nose has had mixed results.

My swaging presses are archaic, Herter's Super O Maximum, and a Herter's No. 3 does most of my swaging work. Had to buy this old stuff because the new stuff like Corbon cost too much.

To make the No. 3 press work had to shorten the two holes on the linkage, now it will top out at the right height on the up stroke of the ram piston.

Working with two calibers in swaging, .44 and .45, smallest bullet weights about 158 grain to 255, and occassionally 300 grains.

Is swaging a dying art, our do you gents do a lot of it.


Swagerman aka Jim :)


http://www.hunt101.com/img/275896.JPG (http://www.hunt101.com/?p=275896&c=500&z=1)

[shooter575]

Swagerman Welcome to the zoo
I am not a swager.Allways wanted to try making C/W minnes that way though.All of the union and most of the southern bullets were swaged. Price to get set up was the killer though.There is a forum over on graybeard on swaging.May be of use.

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com

[Buckshot]

..........Swagerman, welcome to the board. First of all your little 7" lathe is actually a capable little machine. If you haven't already, do a google search on 7" lathe and you'll have a few days reading. Other then depth of cut and maybe the use of some big drill bits and overall length, there has been little I've made on my 11" Logan that couldn't have been done on a 7" machine.

The only deal about cutting a nose punch to match your boolit is to grind a tool (spoon) to use. Drill the minor ID with a drill bit then advance the spoon to cut the internal shape. I use drill blanks for this and several other purposes. Plug in 'Drill Blanks' on E-Bone and you can get some deals. I just bought 36 letter E (.250") Butterfield 4" blanks for $12. They make great cutting bits.

I like shooting the long range muzzle loaders (Whitworth and Rigby) and had been using regular 45 cal grease grooved boolits sized to .451". I thought that paper patching these would be nice. Over a period of time I talked myself into buying a press, set of dies and an adjustable core mould from Richard Corbin at RCE Enterprises.

http://www.fototime.com/843853136AD317F/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/05939E361C30577/standard.jpg
Press and coremould.

http://www.fototime.com/4C9F502AC298773/standard.jpg
These are some 585gr .443" cup based slugs before patching. A bit too much of a good thing. Pleanty accurate but way heavier then need be.

http://www.fototime.com/F5B2831828DBFE3/standard.jpg
These are a bit more like it at 540grs, and hollow pointed.

................Buckshot

[Buckshot]

...............I got my 11x36 Logan lathe from a friend in Jan of 04. Since then it has occupied a great part of my time ...............and soaked up a frightfull amount of money in accessory tooling. I got it with a bunch of stuff, but stuff is cool and I needed more. I think most of us can understand that need, however I did get a bit out of hand for awile! I'm all better now, and trying to be MUCH more mature about aquiring 'Stuff'.

http://www.fototime.com/C3EE3AD183E490A/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/15AC5C0ED7160EC/standard.jpg
I blatantly copied R. Corbins die design. For the .443" slugs in the previous post, he supplies a core forming die and a nose forming die, ejector rod assembly and a base punch. You take the cores produced by the core mould and they go into the core forming die. This has a bleed hole and under pressure will extrude lead so each core weighs within tenths of a grain of each other.

For the core mould I parted off some .375" rod to various lengths. Their weight value totally unknown, in 1/10" incremental lengths. You take one and place it in the first cavity and crank up the plunger to touch. Then move to the next and do the same until all 5 cavities have been done.

After they have all been through the core forming die you swap the nose forming die in. The base plunger goes into a die on the top crossbar of the press and is stationary. The die body is screwed into the ram and it is what moves up and down. In the left photo is a die I made to form Pritchit style Minie' bullets for a 577 Snider. I did not make the core forming die as I didn't make a core mould, but used instead cast Minie' bullets from a Raphine mould.

On the very left is the ejector rod. The large cylinder sets down inside the ram with the smaller rod extending up through the forming die. This assembly also does not move. The forming die moves up and down over it. When the die moves down, the ejector pin pushes the slug up out of the die. The item on the right is the base forming plunger that goes into a die like affair in the top crossbar of the press. The bullet's nose is formed in the diebody.

The right photo shows the base punch entering the forming die as it moves up over it. One of my more successfull attempts at color casehardening! However, Turnbull is in no danger from me! Just playing.

http://www.fototime.com/5A94DEA526A1BFB/standard.jpg
These are the results form the 58 cal swage die. On the right are 2 of the as cast Raphine slugs. On the left are 3 of the swaged slugs. These are swaged up from a .580" diameter to .595". The skirts are thicker overall and have an additional thickening step inside, with a shallower hollowbase being formed. The slightly rumpled appearance is from a bit too much lube. My first efforts.

Since the nose is formed in the diebody, it calls for one of those nose forming spoons I mentioned in the other post. A shaped boring bar really. In this instance I used a 7/16" drill blank (some of that "Stuff" I mentioned) and ground it to closely mimic the Raphine radius. Pretty close, eh? Obviously to change nose designs requires a new diebody. I don't know what Richard uses for his dies, but I suspect it is a bit more noble then my de-scaled hot rolled steel.

Since the nose forming spoon is cutting over a relatively long surface length you have to feed slowly, to avoid chatter and spring. Even though it is 7/16" diameter the effort to peel off the steel is great. I step drill the nose portion first to take out the majority of the metal but there at the last it's cutting it's full length.

The ejector plunger rod is merely drill shanks. More "Stuff" originally in the form of aircraft extension drill bits. The base is W-1 drill rod.

http://www.fototime.com/F6696E3245BE49B/standard.jpg
These 38 cal boolits are the result of my second effort at swage dies. I had aquired a S&W Victory model in 38 S&W and wanted to try soft lead HBWC's in it. Turned it into a really nice shooter! The die ejects a .362" HBWC. I lube-size them at .363" first in the Lyman press. If the grooves aren't filled with lube they collapse.

At 'A' is a Lyman 35863 WC and it's hollowbase. 'B' is a Lee 358-158RF that has been hollowbased and at 'C' you have a 200gr Lyman 358430 round nose manhandled in the die. Due to the immense leverage and pressure, if you can get it into the die you can make a 38 cal HBWC out of it! I had previously found out that if I made some washers to put under the ejector pin base, I could also form hollowpoints. What this does is to cause the ejector pin to extend up into the forming die so the lead is swaged down around it. You can see this in the 58 cal Minie' photo and the 540gr patched slugs.

I've been a bit maniacal with the lathe since I got it, and I'm sure most these guys around here are sick to death of it. I was at first kind of scared of it. Sounds odd but it took me a week of thinking about it to finally try cutting threads. Maybe I was afraid of creating scrap? But it would have been scrap from scrap anyway! My 1st attempt was some nice 1/2-10 threaded rod due to a mistake in setting the levers on the QC box. So you see, I haven't made any scrap yet but I HAVE made some things for stuff that hasn't been invented to date. I also have some spare parts that don't fit anything.

All of these things here could have been done on a 7" machine. Possibly a bit slower for some operations, but you're not making a hundred of'em, and you're the boss.

................Buckshot

[harley45]

Buckshot made the hollowpointer for me and if I ever get time to use it I'll post a full report, but so far with a bit of limited use it is a great device.
Eric