Qustion for Felix

[tomf52]

Does it matter if you use pure liquid lanolin or the anhydrous lanolin in the making of Felix lube? I have made a batch with the anhydrous, but getting it is next to impossible. Almost every pharmacy looks at me like I have two heads. Some don't even know what it is. Those that do have it want $18 a pound for it.The pure liquid form seems to be readily available on the internet and less expensive also, (about $3.50 for 4 ounces.) Thanks for any help here.

[felix]

Tom, I have no idea what liquid lanolin is. Look on the bottle and report back. If not on the bottle, check around the net and see what is going on with that stuff. Based on what the "solvent" is, we might be able to use it. If it is water something, we cannot use it. We can always get the proper lanolin, though. Holler back. ... felix

[tomf52]

Felix - The ads say "pure liquid lanolin". I will try to find one of the websites and forward it to you.

[eka]

Check here. These folks are easy to deal with and ship fast. Prices are pretty good also. Some of the items we need are a little pricey I suppose with shipping, but once you get your supplies, you make a LOT of lube.

http://www.thesage.com/catalog/FixedOil.html

Hope this helps.

Keith

[Beau Cassidy]

$17 is about what I paid for a lb. 2 years ago. It's a lifetime supply. It sounds like the liquid lanolin is not anhydrous. It is frequently referred to as nipple softening cream. You don't want this.

Beau

[quack1]

I got some of the liquid (consistency of thick syrup) lanolin from where I used to work and the batch of lube I made using it works OK. The company used it for lubing steel dies used to press powdered metal into various shapes. The lanolin never caused the die caveties to rust. I was a little concerned about it not being anhydrous, but the paperwork that came with it said it was 100% lanolin, so I went ahead and used it with no problems. It's been a few years since I have worked there and can't remember the name of the company that made the lanolin.

Felix- what would happen if the lanolin used in a batch of lube was not anhydrous? Would it boil and foam up or something while cooking?

[eka]

Tom,

I also get my Carnauba wax from MMS. I get 99.9% mineral oil and castor oil at Wally World. I have the Ivory soap in my mess kit now, but I thought of trying MMS's stearic acid and give up grating soap. Now, if I could come up with a really cheap source of Beeswax, I would be doing great.

Keith

[felix]

Water in the lube mix probably won't hurt if the final lube performs up to expectations. But that statement is true for anything, anywhere, right? ... felix

[Char-Gar]

Ahemm! Let's don't get to far into this as how I know these things, but Anydrous Lanolin is what is recommened to women who are breast feeding to keep their nipples from cracking. It is also good for the baby. Hydrous can be used, but your nipples smell like a wet sheep...not a good thing.

Nuff said....

[Jumptrap]

Here is something to consider about making lube:

First of all, it is somewhat a labor of love. You have got to enjoy making your own and yes, securing the components isn't always easy as a trip to WalMart and, they are a bit expensive.

However, I use Felix lube exclusively and wouldn't consider buying any lube as long as I can make Felix. Why? For starters, it works as advertised, it is damned good stuff and I shall always been in debt to brother Felix Robbins for his creation and for his gift to the shooting community at large. Secondly, as long as component materials are on hand, I will always be able to supply my needs and KNOW what I am getting. I have experiemnted a bit bu exchanging a few components but have never given the different formulations the acid test to see if there is truly any improvement or lesser quality to the end product. I did make one batch using a synthetic oil in place of castor oil and it seems to work great.....but so does castor. I make one consistency and use it all season long....by never changing this component I have a constant factor to deal with. Anytime you change the value of any component the equation is changed. These changes are like radical numbers....then everything else reacts in kind. I don't need that! Lube affects a load more than you think and if you find one that works for you....stick with it. The amount of lube you use is critical....I learned this the hard way. Obviously, the first thing is to control leading. Thereafter, the amount used is determined by it's affect on accuracy. A rule of thumb, is to use no more than is necessary to eliminate leading. Too much lube causes flyers, it has been referred to as 'lube purging' when a barrel suddenly goes sour during a string and suddenly corrects itself and then the process repeats itself. I have experinced this phenomonem. It is frustrating because until you recognize what is happening, it will drive you nuts. The cure is easy.....back off on the lube. An easy way is to start by filling one lube groove and shoot five rounds. If no leading appears....you are just right. If you have leading, fill another groove and so forth until the leading stops. This of course is dependent on other factors that is assumed you have already addressed.....proper bullet fit and alloy for the loads used. let's just say your throat slugs at .311 and therefore you are using a .311-.312 bullet and WW alloy which should fulfill the basic requirements..then adjust the lube accordingly.

I apologise for lapsing into a 'tome' here...but regardless of the lube, this remains a huge factor in end performance.

Oh yes, Anhydrous Lanolin is expensive but a pound jar will last for a very long time. Yes, it stinks. But it is super for your chapped hands as well and a little dab will do ya. If mommy's nipples get sore...rub a little on them too....OR quit sucking them so hard. HAR!

[redneckdan]

I might be able to secure a source of beeswax el cheapo. How does 17 cents a pound sound?

[felix]

Dan, that won't even buy me a beer, cup of coffee, or for that matter a glass of water with ice in it. GO FOR IT! ... felix

[Dale53]

I have used : http://www.thesage.com/catalog/FixedOil.html
as Keith suggested. I bought five pounds (anhydrous lanolin) and split it with a couple of buddies. The price is $8.00 lb plus shipping. The service was good and the product is good. That is a GOOD price. Anhydrous lanolin is not only good in a bullet lube, it is used by industry for forming dies (has extremely high film strength). It makes a dandy case lube, also.

Dale53

[eka]

Redneckdan,

I'm all ears on the beeswax, tell me more. Seventeen cents a pound beats the pants off what I have found.

Thanks,

Keith

[Maven]

Anhydrous lanolin was scarce and expensive 6 yrs. ago when I made my first batch of Felix Lube. I also had the same experience as many of you: pharmacies could order hydrous lanolin, but not the other.

Now for a question regarding substitutions (I know we toyed with this on the old Shooters' Talk bd., but I don't remember what was concluded.): Would teat balm, e.g., Bag's Balm, which has a lanolin base, be an inexpensive (or at least more easily located) substitute for anhydrous lanolin?

Lastly, you can use ATF in the same proportion as castor oil if the latter is difficult to locate. The results are a bit different though, as you wind up with a hot engine oil smell when brewing FL (SWMBO may not appreciate your using the kitchen!) and the lube and the finished product is pink. Performance, however, is the same.

[Old Jim]

Hydrous can be used, but your nipples smell like a wet sheep...not a good thing.

Nuff said....


I hate it when that happens.

[MTWeatherman]

Now for a question regarding substitutions (I know we toyed with this on the old Shooters' Talk bd., but I don't remember what was concluded.): Would teat balm, e.g., Bag's Balm, which has a lanolin base, be an inexpensive (or at least more easily located) substitute for anhydrous lanolin?
.

I am a great believer in Javelina as an all purpose lube...however, have experimented with my own also. I checked the formula for Felix lube....noted the hydrous lanolin in the bag balm and had some beeswax on hand so thought I'd give it a try.

Bag balm is about 50% hydrous lanolin and 50% petrolatum (vaseline). So, in making the lube I followed the Felix formula exactly except for the lanolin amounts. There, I doubled the amount of bag balm to get an equal amount of the anhydrous version (2 tablespoons vs 1) and added about 1/2 tablespoon of parafin to cut the vaseline.

The lube works fine for my purposes. I've used it in a .32 Special to over 2100 fps with accuracy as good as I'm now capable of with iron sights...however had younger eyes when I worked up the initial loads with Lyman Moly and Javelina so can't confirm it's truly equal to those. Zero leading but then again the bullet is a gas check. Works excellent in handgun loads and .44 Mag rifle loads. Relatively soft and sticky...holds to the lube grooves well.

Is it as good as a true Felix lube? I don't know...haven't tried the true Felix version but doubt I could tell the difference in the firearms I'm using it in. It is a pretty good lube nonetheless and bag balm is readily available at any farm and ranch supply and many pharmacies as well (including the local Walmart).

[Lloyd Smale]

the first batch of felix i made was with water based lynolin and it didnt work the lube looked fine and probably worked fine but i store alot of bullets for a year or two and it all dried up and fell off the bullets. My guess is when the water dried up so did the lube.

[felix]

Thanks, Lloyd, I did not forsee that! ... felix

[utk]

A question to Felix:

Isn't lanolin wool fat + water? Would it be possible to gently heat the lanolin to make the water separate from the wool fat due to their differences in density?
Now, with the water gone, isn't that what we call anhydrous lanolin?

[MTWeatherman]

the first batch of felix i made was with water based lynolin and it didnt work the lube looked fine and probably worked fine but i store alot of bullets for a year or two and it all dried up and fell off the bullets. My guess is when the water dried up so did the lube.

Lloyd:

After reading your post....decided I'd better check to see if any of my "bag balm" modified Felix lube bullets had had the same fate. I usually shoot bullets up within the year but did find some 9mm bullets that were at least a year and a half old.

Nope...lube appears to be as sticky as ever. Since the only difference between our two batches would be the petrolatum in the bag balm....it must serve a purpose in keeping the lube from drying out.

So...could be that bag balm is the way to go if you're going to try the "hydrous" lanolin. Either that or consider adding vaseline to the mix.

[Maven]

MTW, Thanks for your informative reply. I suspected Bag's Balm would work, but your suggestion to use 2X as much, given its lanolin content, hadn't occurred to me. I'll note it on my Felix Lube recipe!