Talk to me about Molycoating cast bullets

[carbon_15]

I read a few things on the interenet and saw a commercial cast bullet that uses moly. It seems like the holy grail of casting. Supposedly it eliminated leading almost completely and since there is no other lube used eliminates smoke.
Whats the catch and where can I get some?

[shotman]

well you will have to use something to put it on or it will rub off.. I mix it in the Lee lube. Kens going to get mad but guy on feebay sells it by 1 /4 lb that will last several years. I will see if I can find him.

[bobk]

shotman,
If you're not comfortable posting the source, would you please PM me? I'd like some, too.
Bob K

[C A Plater]

Ick! Yuck! Ack! Phew! Messy, messy, messy! I'll never use that stuff again. No leading? Yeah, sure and those emails I get for certain products work too. Getting lead and moly out of a barrel is extra fun. Some people swear by the stuff, I swear at it.

[LarryM]

I've had good results with Lyman's Super Moly bullet lube.

[runfiverun]

isn't moly a super hard metal.
and they should call the stuff something like, once its on something it spreads like the plague,and won't go away.

[AZ-Stew]

Run5,
Molybdenum disulfide is a dry lubrucant similar to graphite. On the other hand, molybdenum is used in alloying certain steel products. As near as I can tell from Wikipedia, its main uses in steel alloys is for corrosion and heat resistance and for strength.

Regards,

Stew

[Down South]

At one time moly coated bullets were the ticket it seemed. That fad if I may call it a fad seems to have faded away mostly. I jumped on the moly coated bullets band wagon years ago. I wasn’t that impressed with moly coating. It did give me a little higher velocity with little or no increase in accuracy. It can be a pain to clean out of a barrel too. Now of course I’m talking jacketed bullets. I have no idea how moly coating will affect a cast boolit. I would be interested in the results but I’ll sit on the side line and wait for the reports.
I do still shoot moly coated in my 7mm STW. I have an ample supply of the moly coated bullets for the 7mm and so far they still do well in that rifle. Once I run out of them I’ll swap back over to plain jacketed for that rifle and go through the pain staking effort of cleaning the moly out of the barrel.

[waksupi]

I gave it a try some years ago. The best thing I can tell you about it, you can lube case mouths with it when resizing. Goop hand cleaner will remove it from your hands, and your barrel. I only had to clean it out of my barrels once. That was enough for me. I pass.

[runfiverun]

i think the new thing is boron nitride or something like that.

[Longone]

Moly can also be had in an aerosol can, that way you could just stand the bullets up and coat them. I only shot moly for one season and applied it the conventional way (tumbling) on jacketed boolits. After that season was over I never went back to it, not sure it did anything other than make the barrel easier to clean.
Just my 2 cents.

Longone

[carbon_15]

Thanks guys...I'll skip the moly. Guess there is no free lunch huh?

[snuffy]

Guys, he wants to do them at home, like the precision bullets here;
http://www.precisionbullets.com/

It's a propriety coating, that they're not about to tell us how they do it. Or release a kit for us to do it at home.

[WildmanJack]

Hey guys, I guess I'm the exception to the rule. I bought a spray can of Moly Lube and tried it on some unsized 255 gr. pb boolets for my 1873 winny. First time I ever shot a 1.5 inch group with that rifle. Now I won't say it's directly related to the moly lube but I sure was happy with that group at 50 yds. I need to have Lathsmith make me up a die for my Star and see what BAC will do . Biggest problem I found with the spray moly is (1) I kind of get a buzz when I spray it on the boolets!!! LOL (2) one can will only do a couple of hundred rounds. The it goes dry.. Just my dos centavos.................

Happy and Safe New Year to all..
Jack
:drinks::drinks::drinks:

[garandsrus]

I still use moly for my .223 service rifle bullets. It does seem to increase the number of shots between cleaning cycles without losing accuracy. A high power match can consist of up to 88 shots. There really is no time to clean during the match. If you aren't shooting or scoring, you are pulling targets for someone else.

Before I started casting, I purchased some .38 special lead Wad Cutters that had a "dry lube". The stuff sure looks and feels like moly. I would be very surprised if it isn't. I haven't shot enough of the bullets to know if they lead. They are very messy to handle and load though.

John

[NSP64]

I have tried moly spray, powder. Still have both. I add some moly to my LLA then thin it with mineral spirits. Don't know if it helps, doesn't seem to hurt.

[hedgehorn]

anyone tried adding graphite to LLA?

[shotman]

Well I can get it from a guy by the pound [$35] I know many of you have the larger handguns[44mag up] when you shoot jacketed bullets you see the copper that is on the rifleing right? Clean the barrel. Put the moly in the Lee TL and shoot 10 cast . Then shoot 10 jackets and look at the barrel. If there is copper in it then dont use the moly. That will settle it. If any of you want some let me know . Just for size a lb is about a 39oz coffee can full. email is ragebhardt@msn.com

[azrednek]

anyone tried adding graphite to LLA?

I tried it and the only benefit I noticed was less smoke. Gun wasn't any cleaner and they didn't shoot any better.

[Tom W.]

Some years ago a friend of mine got the set-up to tumble boolits with moly. I'd heard of it but had no clue as to what is was. He convinced me that it was THE next thing, and asked me to bring 100 or so cast boolits for my Colt Government model over and he'd moly coat them for me. No other lube needed!



The next week I had 100 moly rounds loaded up and off to the range I went.






The first few shots went well, but every now and again the pistol would fail to go into battery. No problem with a FMJ RN, it would load and fire, but a few cast rounds after would FTF again. I ceased firing, cleared my handgun and looked at the muzzle. It appeared that I had silver spaghetti coming out the muzzle. Upon further inspection, it appeared that I was firing a smoothbore.


It took a long time to pull all of those bullets, and I learned the hard way that lube IS needed. I re-lubed with LLA (including the ones that hadn't been loaded previously) and all was right with the world.


The only time I'll use moly now is in Lyman's lube, and I have but one stick of that messy stuff left.

[Blammer]

personally I like moly coating on my jwords. I have one rifle I only shoot moly bullets out of.

I think it does what it's suppose to, increase the shot string before accuracy falls off and a cleaning is needed.

I'd like to try it on cast boolits, but just havn't gotten around to it yet. My concern is that once applied to cast boolits it may rub off fairly easily.

[Springfield]

I tumble lubed my wifes 45 Colt cowboy bullets for years and they worked great. No leading, ever. Just cast and tumbled, no need to size with this particular mould. I think some guys tend to use too much powder in the tumbler. Doesn't take much to work properly.

[shotman]

I got some on the way so if you want some email me . will cost $12 for 1/4 lb. That will last 20 years I still have near the first 1/4 I got 10years ago. Will sell smaller amount so let me know

[Three44s]

I bought powdered moly sold by Lyman ...... a little goes a very long ways!!

Like others here ........ I either mix it one of my LLA bottles or use it in a zip lock bag. First I lube with mineral spirit thinned LLA ....... allow to dry ....... then put a small amount of the moly powder in a zip lock and also some of the then dried bullets ....... shake around a little bit ...... then remove and reapply the thinned LLA and dry once more.

It's messy ........ but they are making soap and trucking it to stores near "us" regularily!

Three 44s

[Frank46]

When our range held the steel plate matches we used a spray moly that came in an aerosol can. We used to shoot upwards of 300rounds. Course the better you were the less you shot. I had a couple cookie bake pans. Spread the bullets (45acp hard cast 230grain) in neat little rows and row by row I'd hose em down. In hot weather
the coating would only take about 5 minutes to dry. Stuff them in a bullet box, set up the next ones and so on. Could do about a thousand or so in about two hours give or take. There were enough shooters doing this and almost to a man they said it made getting any leading out much easier. BBls were easier to clean. Used to shoot about 600 rounds on a weekend. What leading easily brushed out and barrels didn't take much time to clean. I tried the ring o moly at the junction of the mouth of the case and where bullet was seated in the case. Did this for both 6.5x55
swedish mauser and 303 british. In both cases I chronographed about a 25fps velocity increase. And that ring o moly was blown down the bbl. This was shown by how black the patches were. Kept it up with the pistol and revolver bullets, but gave it up on the centerfire rifle rounds. Took too much time to accurately apply the moly and eventually gave it up. Only side benefit besides velocity increase was wase of cleaning the barrels. And if you ever shot swedish military ball ammo in a swede you know what I mean. It would take forever to get the green fouling out. Resorted to using old worn 30 caliber bore brushes to really scrub the barrels clean. Yeah I'm cheap and save the old brushes. Never know when they come in handy. So thats my take on the use of moly. Used to buy it about a case at a time from a local job lots place, when they no longer stocked it
used to get it from an industrial supply house. The grease was easy. I have about 6 bottles of dow corning moly powder. Find some moly grease and ad the moly powder to the desired consistency. As long as it could be applied with an artist's brush and didn't run that was it. Regular moly grease can be bought at most auto stores. Hope this helps Frank

[jameslovesjammie]

I have never shot moly, just read about it. I thought you were supposed to:

1. Clean the snot out of your barrel. There can't be any fouling at all (lead, copper, powder, anything)
2. Shoot moly bullets.
3. Clean barrel but leave moly fouling. Clean out powder residue but don't scrub barrel.
4. Repeat step 2.

Leaving the moly in the barrel is supposed to "season" the barrel. You don't clean it out because you WANT it in the bore.

Any thoughts?