Omg...

[NSP64]

I had been looking on here for ways to clean copper out of the barrel. I had noticed copper was in the barrel of a old .270 Husqy I bought. Barrel looked clean but wet patches keep coming out dark. Anywho I found all the stuff in the dungeon to try and build an electro-chem rod to clean out the copper. Went and picked up some amonia put it all together and OMG was it dirty. The first cleaning, the rod came out with shadows of the rifling on it. They whiped right off. Repeated 2 more times and when I look down the barrel now it blinds me. Now I'm going to have to do this to all my guns.:drinks:

[woody1]

Kinda scary what they'll get out that you didin't think was there. Regards, Woody

[Forester]

Wipe Out will do about the same thing without all the hassle. I don;t think it works well on lead, but its hard to beat for copper. Just put it in the barrel, leave it overnight, patch it out and the guns clean. Worst case you fill the barrel a second time and it will be pretty much as clean as it gets.:Fire:

[NSP64]

Best part about this was that all 3 treatments only took 60 minutes.

[JIMinPHX]

Now I'm going to have to do this to all my guns.:drinks:

Easy there champ. That's kind of a rough method to be using on every gun every time.

That battery & ammonia trick sure gets the copper out like nobodies business, but it also takes a hack at the barrel material in the process. If you look at your barrel closely after pulling that little trick, you will probably see a very fine sandy looking finish. That means that you lost a little barrel material to the electrolyte.

I use that trick myself, but only when I buy a second hand rifle that has not been cleaned properly in years. Even then, I only use it once. I never need that method on any gun that has been properly cared for. It's a WMD that I only use on fouling that defies normal methods of persuasion. It's impressive results come with a price tag of collateral damage that you need to consider.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Now it`s my turn to be confused. I have read the sites telling about how to make these units. One site said to use "C" batteries only, another site said to use an electricians flashlight that comes with continuity wires already and in "D" cell. Then there is the commercial unit that uses their own mix of bore chemicals. I`ve thought of making 1 of these units using my continuity flashlight and several new bottles of foul out solutition I got in a deal. Would this still work or should I just say the heck with this idea. I had planned to use it on several old miltary rifles I`ve just acquired. :confused: Robert

[NSP64]

All my rifles are second hand. And this is the first and only time I will do this cause they only get cast from here on out:lovebooli

[JIMinPHX]

Now it`s my turn to be confused. I have read the sites telling about how to make these units. One site said to use "C" batteries only, another site said to use an electricians flashlight that comes with continuity wires already and in "D" cell. :confused: Robert

Current is more important than voltage here. I put a variable resister (potentiometer) & a small ammeter in line with the rig. I set it for about 10ma to start out. When I see the current change by 20%, then it is time to quit & fast.

[PatMarlin]

THat's one good thing about the Outters unit- it's safe if you follow the instrucitons. Bought mine on sale, and I think it was well worth the price. I use it copper only on pre cast shooters.

[Ricochet]

I imagine most old surplus rifles would benefit from this, as their cleaning's been mainly to get the easy sooty stuff and primer residue out. They usually have those onion-like layers of carbon and copper in them. I still do it the old fashioned way with soaking in ammonia and alternating scrubs with soapy water and oil (or Kroil, kerosene, Hoppe's and such.) And usually start shooting them before completing the process, it doesn't hurt a thing.