HELP a old Noobie

[Superfly]

Hello there,

Ok i want to make some Booolis for my 30 wcf in 150grn . My ? is do i need to use a gas check or can i get by with out it also what mould should i use???

Right now i have about 75 pounds of Ignots of WW with about another 150 in the pails so i best be getting my tools ordered and acounted for.

SO can some one answer this for me Gas check or not to gas check.:confused:

Thanks Jaime

[madsenshooter]

Most of the fellows here will probably tell you that it's best to gascheck, if you look around you'll find posts wherein they're selling gas check making tools, if you wish to avoid Hornady's prices for them. There are plain base molds available in 30 caliber, I'm not going to search around for you, gotta do that bit of work yourself. Get both plainbase and gascheck molds, then decide what works best for you. Using WWs will allow you to get into velocity levels beyond the range of plain base bullets, but we're talking about the 30/30. You'll get some more useful answers.

[Bullshop]

You will have to answer your own question. Reason being you will have to decide at what pressure/velocity you will shoot them at.
There is no one right way. To help with just a very basic guidline figure about,
pressure not above say about 25000 psi or velocity not above say about 1500 fps may do well without a GC considering good fit, good lube, and alloy hardness appropriate to pressure applied.
Pressure and velocity above this may need a GC but there may still be acceptions with very hard alloys, fillers, paper patch and such.
If your starting out in your learning curve when in doubt think 22 LR. If you keep your loads to withinn what a 22 LR hi velocity will do (about 1330 fps from a rifle) you will generally be OK without a GC. Even within that velocity you can still get into trouble with a too hard for pressure undersize boolit. Remember the boolit is a piston and the gas must remain sealed behind it. If the gas blows by you have a problem.
The formula from Brother Veral is 1422 x bhn = yeald pressure.
Get ready for a flood of more helpfull info and take notes.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[kir_kenix]

I shoot gas check designs without them all the time. I'm too poor to be checking all of my boolits. I think that fit of the boolit and lube are more important then whats on the base if you keep it below 1500-1600 fps. If you are absolutely sure that you will not be checking and pushing them, I would just opt for a plainbase mold. If you think you would like to experiment a bit, then a GC mold will be more versatile.

Odds are that you are going to end up owning more then one .30 mold anyway, so I doubt you can really strike out on your first try. I think I have 5 or 6 .30's, and another few on the way via the gb's.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Choosing a mold for the 30WCF is not difficult as Lyman, Lee, RCBS and Saeco all have at least one design available. They are all proven in use and are easy to cast, lube and load. A design with a flat nose is desireable if you are going to shoot them in lever gun, but a round works as well. As for whether to choose a gas check design, as has already been pointed out....if you go over 1500 fps velocity you are going to want a GC on the back of the bullet to protect it. Flat based bullets in 30 cal can run into problems over 1500, including leading and deformation; the type of powder and charge are also a factors that have to be considered. As to what's best that depends on what you want to do with the ammo and the grouping/accuracy that you are getting or are satisfied with. LLS

[largom]

You did not state what use you intend for these boolits, so:
If you just want plinkers you could just use plain base.
If you intend to hunt game then I would suggest Gas Checks. Of course you could use a GC bullet without the check for plinking. Although you stated 150gr. boolit, I have had great sucess with a Lyman 311041 at 173gr. in my 30-30's
LARRY

[Marlin Junky]

What is it you are trying to accomplish by not using a gascheck? Are you trying to save time and/or money? You can apply a gascheck with a Lee Push-Through-Sizer and the results will come out fine if your bases are square and you use a little ingenuity to flare the sides of the gascheck slightly in case you have to deal with a little too much GC shank diameter. Lyman 311041 is a good mold to start with. Make sure you preheat it on a hot plate (check out Wall Mart) while your metal is melting. You'll definitely need a thermometer if you're not going to buy a bullet casting furnace. In the case of the latter, just turn it up all the way to get started. If you use a burner of some kind under a cast iron pot, try to keep the metal at least 750F. You'll also need a ladle. I recommend a Rowell#1 but others will recommend something like the RCBS ladle which is slower and holds less metal. There's more technique involved with the Rowell#1 but it is a faster ladle that produces excellent results once you've mastered it.

If you really want a plain base mold, Lyman 311410 will turn your M94 into sort of a .22 rimfire on steroids.

MJ

[Superfly]

Thank you all.

As for the wcf It more so going to be used for just well get this. Plinking and maye a shot or 2 at the goverment beef. I have been using 33grn of BLC2 under a 150 grn flat nosed bullet. Nothing hot as i belive it is more so in the shooter then the tool, Plus A few grns saved is another boolit loaded right.

I belive i will be fine with non gas checked and some cotton batton betwen the powder and boolit. Do you all agree ????

Now i need to find some powder what do you fellows recomend?????


Thanks Jaime