First Casting Session -- Comments Welcome

[Craig67]

Did my first casting session today, here's my setup

http://usera.ImageCave.com/Craig67/009.JPG

These are the Lee C312-155-2R

http://usera.ImageCave.com/Craig67/010.JPG

Not real great looking I agree, what went wrong ?

TIA,

Craig

[TC66]

Mold was not warmed up enough is my guess. You cleaned the molds before casting with them right? Was the lead about 800 degrees?

[docone31]

I have the same mold, it did the same thing.
It needs more heat, both on the melt, and mold.
I also put two 1/4-20 nuts on top of the cavities, and poured through them. I then took fine lapping compound, wiped them, and slowly turned the castings in the mold as I slowly closed it down. I also swapped the castings from cavity to cavity. Ultimately, one snapped off so I only had one. I did both cavities with one casting.
The next cast session, they looked swaged! Flawless castings.
Try it, you might just like it.

[Craig67]

Molds were cleaned. I have no idea what the temp was, I had my pot set to max though.

The lapping compound sounds like a good idea, I'll try to get some.

Thanks for the help,

Craig

[TC66]

That is a good idea about the lapping compound. I am going to do that to my molds. Sounds like a great idea.

Try setting the pot you have right between 7 and 8. That should be plenty to heat it properly. Let it sit and fully heat before you try casting also. Just because it is melted does not mean it is hot enough.

[RayinNH]

Assuming the mould was perfectly clean, and the lead up to casting temperature, the mould was too cool...Ray

[runfiverun]

i run my aluminum molds the opposite of my iron ones i get the mold way too hot first and cool it as i use it. with iron i start out just warm and try to just keep it there.
it is hard for me to get frosted boolits from an aluminum mold but i try to get it there.
seems the boolits drop easier and casting goes much faster.

[Avery Arms]

I purchased some used hotplates at a flea market but a kitchen stove works fine.

I arrange my molds on the burners so when my lead is ready I can start casting with no fooling about. When you switch molds no time is lost as your new mold is at the perfect temp before the first cast.

Through trial and error you can find the correct setting on the hotplate dial.


PP

[docone31]

I rest my mold in the melt.
When the lead does not stick to the mold, I am ready to cast.
I like to start really hot, then come down to temp. I am too hot, when I cut the sprue, open the mold, and it pours out. I have had that happen a few times. I can tell when the sprue is ready to cut, when it sucks in a little lead, then suddenly greys. A little push with my push dowel, and off with the sprue.
Took a few to get that technique down.

[Craig67]

I have a hotplate, so I'll use that to pre warm my mold next time.

Thanks for all the help folks,

Craig

[opentop]

Hey Craig,

I had the same thing happen to other day with a new lee mold. I couldn't get it to fill out. My boolits looked like yours with the wrinkles. I smoked the cavities with a lighter and it started dropping perfect boolits.

You need to smoke the cavities with a match or a lighter. I bet that will help.

[Craig67]

I smoked the mold before and again about 1/2 way through my session.

I'll make sure I smoke it again before my next session.

Thanks,

Craig

[docone31]

I don't smoke mine that much. A lot of issues I have had with Lee Molds, is they just need to be broken in.
I found, using a cigarette lighter works better than candle flame.
I just crack the mold to let the heat out, light the lighter, and flame the mold.
Your mold will recquire casting to improve its casting. After a bunch of crap castings, they really start to shine.
If it is still an issue, try lapping the cavity. It made a big difference in my mold.
That mold was a real disappointment untill I lapped it.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Okay here is my $.02 worth. Firstly I also have this mould for various uses. I also had this same problem that I solved as follows. I first smoked the cavities with a WOOD MATCH, re-read WOOD MATCH. It didn`t completely stop the wrinkles so I added a little more tin to the mix, ww`s actually. The problem stopped completely. I also use a yard sale hot plate to both preheat my moulds and preheat the lead ingots in an old pie pan before adding them to the pot using channel lock pliars. I use this slug for everything from SKS, to the .303,.7.65 A.M., and all .30 cal. rifles. I size it to .311 for the .30`s. For the various .303 dia`s I size it thru a .314 sizer to seat the gc and lube only, no sizing is done. It shoots good in my .300 Sav. and 30-30 single loaded of course. :lovebooli:cbpour: Robert

[Craig67]

I used a Bic lighter but I'll try a wood match.

Going to have to buy some solder for the tin.

I'm planning on using this bullet for my SKS's, my Mosin Nagant M44 and Spanish M1916 (in 7.62mm)

Craig

[Snapping Twig]

My 312-155 did the same thing, drove me nutz. I set it down after an hour or so of head knocking to fight with it another day.

Next time I picked it up, I cleaned it out and smoked it again and oddly enough, it started to produce.

10 to 1 it starts working for you next time out.

[docone31]

You guys are almost talking me into trying that mold again.
It cast garbage, and lots of it. I got some good ones, loaded up 40 for my .303 British, and got 20 min of berm!
I might just try them paper patching. If I ever use that mold again, I will do my trick with the lapping compound, then cast.
I mean, I cast maybe 500 of them, and they are still sitting in the container I put them in.
Might though, work in my .30s if I patch them and size to .309.
Hey, I have the mold on hand, so who knows. Maybe one day if I get bored, or want to be frustrated beyond comprehension.

[JDFuchs]

Every lee mold ive gotten had to have a long break in time the first time there used. I try casting casting for about as long as a nomal session before im happy with how it drops them. Lots of heat helps, might try overheating it till it drops good but frosted bullets then let it cool.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Hey Craig67, What is the alloy that you are using at the present. I was using a 50/50 mix of ww and pure lead. When I said I added some more tin, all I did was add another lb. of my ww ingots. If you have some lino, add a 1/4 lb. at a time to add more tin. Add a lb. of ww if you have them. If you are going to add solder with a high tin ratio remember to add about 1/4 lb. at a time then see how the boolits come out, besides smoking the cleaned out mould with a wood match. I am trusting only in wood soot for smoking since butane is an oil by-product. Oil in one thing that doesn`t help to make wrinkle free boolits. I had nothing but spotty luck, mostly bad, with candle sooting or zippo lighters and about anything else made from a petroleum product. I did have fair luck with paper matchs, kinda of short, but they worked. Keep the pot fairly high for temp as well as the mould. Hold a corner of the empty mould in the hot lead for 20 to 30 seconds to pre-heat the mould when starting. Let us know what happens next for you, and tell us your alloy. Good luck my Northern friend. :castmine: :) Robert

[357maximum]

I boil all my aluminum molds in a strong dawn/water solution for 1/2 hour. I scrub all parts and especially the cavities with an old toothbrush several times in that 1/2 hour. I do not smoke a mold unless I want slightly smaller boolits from it. With the above treatment I have never had to smoke any aluminum mold....I have had to boil more than once with a few lee 6cavs though...very porus aluminum there compared to other customs apparently.

[doc25]

I took some grit from the pan that holds my waterstones (sharpening stones) drilled a hole in the base of a boolit and put a screw in it, then I chucked it in the drill and .... darn it fixed the mold. That was for the .303 185? gr. lee mould. Get the mold really hot! When I cast on the stove I either put it on the burner or right next to it. If your sprues harden immediately then it's too cold.

[copdills]

Hello :

pardner I have to clean mine about 3-times before someone on here told me to just use dawn dishwash and scrub the @$%&* out of them and then boil them for about 15min scrub and boil again and guess what , they made great boolits and it will help if you have a hotplate to warm you mold on I place mine on the hotplate as soon as I turn the pot on , turn the hotplate on about 3/4 of the way to high and as soon as you get your melt to temp , I run mine about 750 your mold will be ready to do some serious casting

good luck copdills:castmine:

[44man]

All of my molds make perfect boolits right from the first one. I pre-heat the molds and use the right temp for the pot for each alloy.
My secret? I use a Lyman dipper. :Fire: I have never seen any mold that needed a "Break in." Clean it good and make good boolits. Hot tap water and dish soap is enough.
The molds I make are full of WD-40 from cutting and soap and water does good, scrubbed with an old tooth brush. I live in WV so I can't say "Teeth brush." :mrgreen:
I heat molds to 500* in a little mold furnace on a hot plate.
Some guys use a cleaner that can leave a residue behind and it takes a lot of boolits before good ones drop.

[Craig67]

Robert : The alloy I'm using is straight stick on wheelweights. I realize it might be a little on the soft side.

Doc : If a good cleaning and heating it up on a hotplate dosen't work, I'll try the abrasive.

copdills and 44man: A good scrubbing is next.

Thanks all,

Craig

[Avery Arms]

Robert : The alloy I'm using is straight stick on wheelweights. I realize it might be a little on the soft side...

IMO pure soft lead is much harder to get complete fill-out.

Switch to clip-on weights and I'll bet you have much better results.


PP

[Hang Fire]

Advice from others is point on. I note it also appears the mould is not completely closing. Other's mileage may vary, but with the Lee moulds have found this not uncommon at times. I solved by placing the open mould bottom down (insure the block retaining pins are flush) on a flat surface (I use a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum plate) and then closing has completely eliminated the problem.

[44man]

It takes 800* to cast pure lead (Or more.) A little tin helps fill out.
I would not shoot those boolits cast from pure lead. I would mix with half WW metal.
The soft stuff would work OK at a very low velocity but I want a boolit that will hold it's shape when shot.

[IcerUSA]

Did you read the Leementing sticky ?

As 357 said the Lee moulds are made from extrded aluminum , making them very porse for aluminum , the porosity is very small compared to the steel moulds and might take a few times to get the oils to come out .

Lapping is a good idea , tooth paste , baking soda , I use stuff that is finer than 320 grit to get rid of the micro burrs in the cavities .

Good luck with your mould , a little time spent getting it clean and smooth in the cavities makes for a nice casting tool .

Keith

[Craig67]

I'll try 50/50 stick ons / clip ons for the next session.

Hangfire : I'll check that next time.

Keith : Yes I did read the leementing sticky. I'm just trying to do the minimum to get the mold working.

Craig

[Craig67]

I think 3rd times the charm :-D

No mods to the mold but I have about a 25% reject rate.

I switched to straight clip-on wheelweights also.

The boolits on the left are Lee C312-155-2R, the ones on the right are Lee C312-185-2R.

Comments welcomed.

http://usera.ImageCave.com/Craig67/013.JPG

[JohnH]

One trick to a good clean mold is laquer thinner. 1 gallon is practically a life time supply. I simply pour a 13 oz. coffe can about 1/4-1/3 full, set my mold in it and let it soak for 10 minutes or so. I then "slosh" it around in the thinner, mold partially open, then repeat. I pour the used back into another container and reuse it. Afterward I take the mold and swing in the air a bit to aid evaporation. I then take Permatex high temp lube on a Q-tip and lightly (I cannot empasize lighty enough...perhaps color is a better word) the bottom of the sprue plate and the alignment surfaces of the mold blocks (pins and grooves/holes as the case is) and cast. I cast at about 650-700 degrees. Using the Lee 10 and 20 pounders I rarely set the temp control above 7. I use the above cleaning method on all molds regardless of maker. One can reapply the hihg temp lube during the casting session, but using two molds at a time makes this practically unnessicary.

I set the mold(s) I am going to use each session on top of the pot as it is heating up. If it don't cast well in 10 cycles, I set it on the melt for a minute or so. Iron or aluminum, this works well and won't hurt the mold.

I been doing this, this way, the better part of thirty years. I cannot say it emphatically enough, if you are having trouble getting a mold to cast well filled out, shootable bullets in 20 cycles. YOU are doing something wrong. I also cannot emphasize enough that casting is easy. Yeah it takes a bit of time to get a handle on the mechanics of things, but in and of itself casting is easy and does not require great amounts of effort or knowledge for that matter.

I quit "smoking" Lee mold cavities years ago. Smoking does not aid well filled out bullets, it does aid somewhat bullet release from the mold. But generally, if a boolit don't fall out of the mold easily, there is a burr on the parting line. I do prefer smoking over mold release products, as those are usually fine grafite in a low flash point solvent and will actually reduce the bullets size. I also prefer wooden matches for the smoke medium. These days though, I will only smoke a cavity if it does not perform well otherwise.

While not criticizing, I simply cannot imagine a case where a new mold needs to be lapped. I 've shot lots of boolits from restored molds that were full of pock marks from the minute rust pits in the cavities, the molds performed just fine and the boolits shot just fine too. Lapping a mold should be reserved for increasing it's diameter to fit an oversize bore. Proper cleaning, deburring and tuning a mold will make it cast just fine

This is just my take of things, YMMV. However, I have found that usually the more simple I can keep things, the more likely I am to have good success and minimize my frustration getting there.

[Craig67]

I re cleaned the molds (With paint thinner) and didn't smoke them. Releasing is still a bit of a problem but getting better. Not smoking is also giving me .001 larger bullets.

How would I fix a burr on the part line ?

TIA,

Craig