.45 ACP Molds??

[Grampie not Grumpie]

A little elf just told me that Santa is going to bring me some reloading dies for our .45 acp automatics. My wife and I both have Glocks and I have a Kimber 1911. My question is what is the best/most trouble free boolit mold for a .45 acp to shoot in an automatic. I cast and reload for our revolvers (.38/357 and .44 mag.)? What do others use??

Thanks,

Grampie not Grumpie

[Grampie not Grumpie]

PS:

I am currently using Lee's Tumble Lube molds.

Grampie not Grumpie

[docone31]

I use and love the Lee 452-200RF.
Shoots great, no hang ups, no leading, sizes easily.
This mold, for some reason, is the best casting mold I have! Right out of the gate, perfect castings. I made some boo-boos the first time. They did not show up in the cast boolitt.
A really great mold.

[Swamprat1052]

I have a Kimber 1911 and have had good luck with the Lee 452-200-SWC, it shoots good and have had no feed problems with it. I also bought an old H&G 68 mold and its become my favorite. Both are semi wad cutters and both feed and shoot well.

Swamprat

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Hi, The major mold manufacturers all make good mold/bullet designs for the 45 ACP. Its just a matter of experimenting and finding out which one works well/best for you. I have an RCBS 225 grain Round nose (GI replica) double cavity that does very good work with 4.0-4.1 grains of Red Dot. My other molds are H&G, numbers 68,78 and 130 and they are absolutely the smoothest running molds that I have;They are 4 cavs and I can turn out large numbers of bullets in a short time especially when using two of them in tandem. The rejection rates are all less than 1% and thats a total of 10 or less out of a thousand castings. They all shoot good scores out of 4 different target pistols. The RCBS mold being a round nose does not cut clean holes in the target, but if its raggedy in the ten ring thats ok enough for me. If you use a mold and don't like it you can always put it up for sale on E-Bay and some of the clowns who, without caring, bid wildly on bullet molds will probably snap it up for double what you paid for it. If you can find a H&G, go for it as they are totally the best that was ever made. Good shooting. LLS

[mooman76]

A round nose bullet will be the most trouble free in the 45acp. But as the others pointed out only experimentation will tell which is the best mould for your gun. The Lee TL swc didn't work out for my gun because of feeding issues and the Lee RN cured it.

[C1PNR]

Plus 1 on the H&G 68, and/or the 130.

Another one not mentioned so far is the Lyman 452460. Nominally 200 grains and quite accurate from the semi autos. The 4 C is usually available on evilbay, and there are so many offered they usually go for a more reasonable price than many of the others mentioned.

[Heavy lead]

I really like the 452460. Got mine from Midsouth a few months back, 4 cavity for 63 bucks, it is a casting fool and it cast out of all four cavities a nice fat boolit between 453 and 454 so it comes out of the lubersizer real sharp and shoots great in my 3 Kimbers and one 625. Love it.

[NSP64]

My plain jane 1911 clone (high standard) shoots the lee 452-200swc.great:drinks:

[nicholst55]

+1 on the Lyman 452460. It shoots great through every gun I've tried it in. It would even feed just fine in an unaltered M1911A1 - but not with GI magazines.

[Railbuggy]

Im a bottom feeder.I have the Lee 452-200gr SWC & the 452-228gr RN.Once I got the OAL right,no more FTF.Took a while.I cast up about 550 today with my double mould.Sunday I will size & lube.:drinks:

[trickyasafox]

Don't overlook the lee 230gr TC- mine casts closer to 240 gr, but that is a slick feeding round to be sure.

[zardoz]

I just recently joined the forum myself, and my very first castings and reloadings were done with the Lee TL452-230-2R two-cavity.

Being a rank beginner in this, I was quite pleased when all my first rounds cycled with no problem. The gun was a Taurus PT145 Millenium Pro. I figured the round 2-ogive nose would be best for my first efforts.

zardoz

[Will]

No one has mentioned the Lyman 452374. It matches the GI ball and I never had it fail to feed. I use 7gr unique.

[Papucho]

I agree with everyone that a SWC as the H&G68 wil make you very happy with your Kimber, and I think you should buy (ask Santa) for it. But being a Glock owner myself I would recommend that for your Glocks, you also ask Santa for either a Lyman 452374 or if you want a Lee it would have to be the 452-230 TC, so you won't at a latter time unpleasantly remembering Santa, the Easter Bunny, The Tooth Fairy,etc., like I did.
No FTE nor FTF with this two molds and Glocks.

[copdills]

I like the Lee 230 gr TC works very well

[ddeaton]

I have run all the major boolits through my Glocks without a hitch. The semi wad cutters run fine.I have a couple molds from the group buys and am getting setup to run those.

[Boondocker]

I like the Lee 200 swc tl in my colts. Just cast , tumble and load over 4.3 grains of Clays very smooth recoil. Very accurate and make nice cut holes in the targets.

[DLCTEX]

I can send you some boolits cast from several molds to try and see which work in your pistols. I mostly use Lee 452-200 SWC and Lee 452 -230-1R. DALE

[azrednek]

I use and love the Lee 452-200RF.
Shoots great, no hang ups, no leading, sizes easily.
.


My favorite also for shooting in auto-loaders. I honestly don't recall ever having a jam with this boolit. I shoot it in front of 4.0-4.5 Bullseye. I have others I prefer in 45ACP revolvers but for reliability you will be hard pressed to beat the Lee 200 gr RF.

[35remington]

Now, truthfully.....

Using the original, roundnose bullet profile the gun was intended to run with in the first place is the most likely way to get the .45 ACP to run, assuming we're talking about a 1911, or many other .45 manufactured guns, for that matter.

Despite the claims of great reliability for nonstandard bullets with flat nose profiles, if I had to bet money on any given bullet profile cycling reliably, I wouldn't put much money on a lightweight bullet with a nonstandard nose flat and nonstandard overall length. Many of the bulets intended for the .45 Colt in cowboy action shooting are just that.

Function well in many gun/magazine combinations, sure. But feed better in more guns than the original ball profile?

Unlikely.

Jams can occur for many reasons, but I'm talking about the shape most likely to feed.

[Snapping Twig]

I like the Lee 230g TC 6 gang. Really pumps out the boolits and they feed great in my Kimber.

[No_1]

I agree with 35Remington. The RN profile will give you the most bang for the buck and allow you to start right now without problems. Once you have that running good then you can experiment with other designs. I am sure there are many here that will send you some samples of other designs for you to try then you can decide on another mould OR you can do like the rest of us that are addicted. Buy all the 45 moulds you can get your hands on. If it won't shoot in what you have, buy something it will shoot in. :Fire:

Robert

[9.3X62AL]

The "classic" GI Ball duplicator (Lyman #452374) will run very well even in unaltered "old-school" 1911A1 variants. Seat to OAL of 1.260", and off ya go.

Some Glock pistols will stop up on 200 grain SWCs, esp. if seated with their shoulder flush to the case mouth edge. Seat with about .020" of the front drive band exposed, and they should run fine. My Glock 21 fed them both ways, even when mixed in a given magazine. Lyman #452460 shot VERY well in my G-21, from 750-1000 FPS. Just add WW-231, and serve well done.

Last but not least, the Lee truncated cone designs in the autopistol calibers (9mm, 40/10mm, and 45) are SUPERB designs in terms of feed reliability and downrange accuracy. I love 'em. In all calibers, I seat them with .020" of front drive band exposed, then give a mild taper crimp to just turn in the case mouth flare.

[medicstimpy]

Kimber and a Glock, Huh? A RN bullet would be best as they will usually always feed. The SWC may or may not feed in both those guns. It won't feed in my buddy's Para Hi-Cap but does in all my 1911's and XD45.

I use both the Lee TL452-230-2R and TL452-200-SWC and run them thru the lubrisizer with LARS Red Carnuba. Lead free barrels and don't have to wipe all the brown stuff (LLA) out with mineral spirits all the time.

[marlin444]

For all you Glock shooters out here ...please read your manuals about ammo to use. Glock states that shooting lead bullets are dangerous. The rifling collects lead buildup , preasure rizes and can blow the gun up.

[RobS]

For all you Glock shooters out here ...please read your manuals about ammo to use. Glock states that shooting lead bullets are dangerous. The rifling collects lead buildup , preasure rizes and can blow the gun up.



Yes, factory Glock barrels have polygonal rifling but a person can shoot lead if they work at it right.

[35remington]

marlin, good thing my Glock can't read or you'd hurt its feelings.

See the sticky in the pistol section.

[nwellons]

I recently went through a learning curve with my 1916 Colt 1911. I wanted a classic looking bullet so I skipped the Lee 230 tumble lube and went with the more classic looking 228. I had lots of chambering problems but looked up the problem on past threads here and fixed it by lowering the OAL while lowering the powder load because of possible pressure increase.

It shoots great and chambers flawlessly. Fortunately, this forum has all the answers for what ails you.

[fredj338]

The most trouble free will be any RN design. If you want cleaner holes in paper but still have a great functioning bullet, the 230grTC from Lee or sim is a good choice. If you want the same bullet in 200gr, then Magma makes this one.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/fredj338/45200TCPB.jpg

[fredj338]

For all you Glock shooters out here ...please read your manuals about ammo to use. Glock states that shooting lead bullets are dangerous. The rifling collects lead buildup , preasure rizes and can blow the gun up.

They also say you shouldn't reload. Just clean more often than you would say a 1911, it will run fine, especially the 45s.

[emorris]

In stead of starting a new thread I am posting here. I recently got my first 1911 an I plan to start casting for it as well. I have had good luck with my .38 special and I did ok with 9mm. The two molds that I am looking for are both Lees. I cant decide on the TL452-230-2R or the 452-228-1R. I dont have a lubsizer so I will have to pan lube or tumble lube. Starting off it will not be in high volume so I am open to pan lubing. I want a reliable feeding bullet and just by looks the step in the tl452-230-2r may cause feeding/ leading problems. I am just looking to see what others have to say and suggest. I also had some luck tumble lubing some 38 swc with the regular lube groves.

[Bullwolf]

Like a couple of others here, I too use the Lee 2-Cavity Bullet Mold TL452-230-2R for 45ACP, and I have been using it since the early 90's.
http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/large/517/517501.jpg

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=539&pictureid=3864
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=539&pictureid=3862
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=539&pictureid=3863

It has always been a pleasant mold and never let me down. Since it is a Tumble Lube design, it should make you should feel right at home.

They drop a bit larger than .452 but most Lee molds drop a bit oversize. I size them down to .452 using a Lee push through sizer.

I find that 6.0 grains of Unique works just fine behind the 230 grain boolit (mine cast around 228grains) They give nice accuracy and no leading in my guns. I used to tumble lube them using Lee liquid Alox with excellent results.

I like Recluse's 45-45-10 formula (Johnson's Paste Wax + Alox + mineral spirits) as a lube even better now. If you haven't yet, be sure check out the sticky about it. It definitely takes all the hassle out of Alox, and tumble lubing.


- Bullwolf

[mebe007]

the lyman 452374 feeds flawlessly in my 1911

[gasboffer]

my 1911 feeds almost anything, Xd45 won't feed swc, Glock36 wont feed anything except RN. (No stepped shoulders on RN like Lee 230 RN tumble lube)

[Moonie]

I have the lee 230gr TC with normal grease grooves and the Mihec 200gr HP, both feed flawlessly in both my 1911 and my sons 1911, I use 45/45/10 on both, size to .452 and have no leading issues.

Remember, you don't need TL boolits to TL.

[Doby45]

Mihec H&G #68, works through my 1911 like poop through a goose.

[John Van Gelder]

Bullwolf

Good looking reloads...

I have two bullets that I favor in the .45ACP, both are from H&G molds, the 68 which is a nice 200 gr. SWC, the other is a 240 gr. SWC originally intended for the auto rim, but it works well in my .45acps, it has taken a number of bears and deer quite neatly.

[XWrench3]

I have been running the lee 230g round nose (standard 45acp bullet) mold for several years. The only trouble i have ever had is you have to get the seating depth correct (which will be shorter than the standard oal), or the slide will not close. There is a ridge at the end of the round nose, that will catch the edge of your chamber or rifling. As long as your loading teqniques are not sloppy, it is a fine way to go. If your a little less than a perfectionist, they also make a trunacated nose bullet mold, that does not have the ridge like the round nose does. That may be less fussy than the round nose is on exact oal. Whatever you do, make sure you get the 6 cavity mold. You will get very spoiled, very fast with it. So much so, that you will want every other mold you own to be 6 cavity molds!

[35remington]

X, if loading the 230-2R, correct OAL should be in the vicinity of 1.265" which is pretty much standard length for ball duplication.

If 228-1R, this is a nonstandard bullet that will result in a nonstandard OAL of around 1.220" seated to work through most 45's.

[Bullwolf]

Thanks for the compliment John Van Gelder

I load the Lee TL452-230-2R to an OAL of 1.265

That's the same overall length as my old military hardball, according to my digital calipers.

It has always fed flawlessly in my old, and new 1911's when using standard Colt GI Magazines.

If I could say anything bad about the boolit, it would be that it tears paper targets. I can live just fine with that, since it feeds so well.

A Truncated Cone, or a Wad Cutter will make a much cleaner hole in paper.


- Bullwolf

[emorris]

Bullwolf
What method have you been using to tumble lube. have you been just using alox or some mixture.

[skeet1]

I am becoming a big fan of the Lyman/Ideal 452460 and the 452488. Great bullets that are super accurate and easy on my arthritic in my right hand when I use 3.5 gr. of BE.

Ken

[Bullwolf]

Bullwolf
What method have you been using to tumble lube. have you been just using alox or some mixture.

Well, I used to Tumble Lube with just plain old Lee Liquid Alox. It worked OK, but it tended to be a little smoky, especially when I didn't bother to wipe the lube off the base of the bullets. I probably used a bit too much when I first started out tumble lubing. It took me quite a while to learn that if you can easily see Alox on the bullet, you used a bit too much.

I would heat the container of Alox up in some warm water, until it went liquid, and then pour it over some cast Boolits in a plastic margarine container, and then swish them around to evenly distribute the lube over all of the Boolits. After-wards, I would let them dry on top of a cookie sheet covered with wax paper. I eventually learned I could "help" them dry just a bit faster by using a blow dryer.

It worked, but it was a little bit sticky. Too much Lee liquid Alox will also gum stuff up a bit. (like your bullet seating die) But it was the quickest and easiest game in town for me, until...

I read this great thread on Cast Boolits. Tumble Lubing--Made Easy & Mess-Free.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=67654

I strongly recommend making up a batch of the 45-45-10

It is Johnson's Paste Wax + Lee liquid Alox, cut with mineral spirits.

Follow the link, and use Recluse's directions, as he has really done an excellent job of explaining how to make it, even including images.

I find that it really does take all of the hassle out of tumble lubing. The 45-45-10 Tumble Lube works great, it is not tacky to the touch and it dries quite quickly. It is not as smokey as normal Alox, and it is even more lubricious, or slippery than straight Alox. It makes sizing Tumble Lubed bullets take less effort as well.

I found it a breeze to cook up a batch using Recluse's instructions. Just watch the flash point, use a double boiler pot, and keep a lid handy to smother the flames, in case you manage to catch it on fire. I use it for all my Tumble Lubing needs now.

I strongly recommend it.


- Bullwolf

[geargnasher]

I really liked the Lee TL-452-230-2R but many of my autos didn't. Weak microbands and the bevel base didn't suit me, but the nose profile is excellent, and the step where the front band meets the base of the nose is very good for clearing the slide stop teat on 1911s, thus eliminating premature slidelock.

My solution was a custom mould with two real lube grooves and a nice sharp, square base. Accurate Molds 45-230L made to your size specification if you want one, I have yet to find a better .45 Auto boolit design. YMMV.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=28901&d=1296091775

Gear

[Boolseye]

Bullwolf, I like the precision of your posts. I can tell that you're a conscientious reloader.
I'm considering the boolit you've been praising for my new RIA mil-spec GI, which only feeds ball ammo. I use the same system as you, with the .45-.45-10. Other thoughts that people have on this mold are welcome.

Are there other RIA GI owners using this boolit? I'd like to hear from ya.

[David2011]

The Lyman 452374 mold is probably the closest profile to John Browning's elliptical ogive design. I've been shooting these boolits for 30 years and they feed beautifully. They also cast real purty. They just look right in a .45 ACP. They work well in .45 Colt as well if your cylinder is long enough. The ogive starts pretty close to the base so they won't seat much deeper than 1.685-1.700 and still look right. SAAMI spec is 1.600 but the Ruger Blackhawk has plenty of room as would a single shot pistol.

I've read (source not remembered) that the 225-230 grain truncated cones are geometrically the same as the GI Ball bullet based on where the edge of the tip compares to where the GI bullet impacts the top of the chamber as it's stripped from the magazine. They seem to feed as well as the GI profile.

Some SWCs have found their way into my inventory, too. My favorite steel plate load is a 200 gr. SWC with about 3.8 grains of Winchester Super Target. That won't run in an off the shelf 1911 because it doesn't have enough recoil impulse. It works fine with a well prepared throat and an 8 pound recoil spring. At about 650 fps recoil is all but absent. You won't have to go far to find your brass.

The biggest detriment to feeding I've seen in .45 cal 1911s is a transition from the ramp to the chamber that is too sharp which causes it to dig into the side of the case resulting in a 3-point jam so it well may not be 100% the fault of the bullet profile if it fails to feed in a 3-point jam. Excessive OAL will aggravate that as well but the OAL dictated by the magazine restricts that dimension with SWCs. Depending on the shape of the nose of the boolit OAL will usually need to be 1.250 to 1.260. I stick with 1.250 and they feed well. The spec 1.275" OAL only works with a GI profile bullet as it closely matches the interior shape of the magazine per Browning's design.

David

[emorris]

I have ordered my TL452-230-2R mold a couple days ago and I am waiting for its arrival. I ordered it from F&M since it has been a long time since I ordered from them and thought that I would give them another try. In the past it has taken longer to get my order from them than I thought it should with in stock items. I am also in no big hurry since I have used all my ww ingots on 38 wad cutters and I have two buckets of ww to smelt first. I also finally upgraded my smelter. I was at bass pro and they had the cheap fish frier on sale for 29.99, so now I also need to find a larger cast iron pan. I have really been busy as I also finally found some JPW to try the 45-45-10 lube as well as some copper chore boy. I still havent determined if I actually save money by reloading.:bigsmyl2:

[gasboffer]

I have semi-wadcutter molds, Lee TC, Lee 200RF,and Lee 228 1r. My Glock 36 will only feed the Lee 228 rn reliably.

[michiganvet]

I too vote for the Lee RF 200 while I also have the 452460, 452374, and the LBT 200 FNGC.

[grubbylabs]

You should also look at accurate molds. He is a great guy to work with and produces a great mold of any design you like. No need to wait for a group buy.


http://www.accuratemolds.com/pricing.php

I bought the 230-D and it shoots great through my XD45

Good luck on your quest.

[emorris]

Update 12 days into it and my mold still has not arrived. I guess some things never change.