336---Scope

[mag_01]

:D I have held off for a long time but my eyes are going so I have given into useing a scope ----- my question is whats involved puting a scope on my marlin 336 ------ what do I need for a mount?----can I do it myself?-----how dose mount attach to rifle? ----- what power would be good for 336 marlin 30-30---shoots lead well------ I love open sites but the time has come----any help would be great-------Thx.----Mag_01 [smilie=s:

[felix]

Strongly consider a red dot scope. ... felix

[crazy mark]

Is the top drilled and tapped. If so you can use a weaver mount or any of the other mounts. I personally like the 1.5x4.5 or so small scopes. I keep them as low to the top as possible and use an offset hammer spur. If just target shooting the red dot sights are nice. If not drilled and tapped have a good gunsmith do the work. Some people don't like the idea of drilling and tapping an older 336 but if your eyes need it so be it. Mark

[9.3X62AL]

Ditto to Mark's comments. Like you, my days of falcon eyesight are in the dim, distant past--and if I want to REALLY know what a levergun can do downrange, it takes a scope to find it sometimes. I did this with the Marlin 94 in 25-20, and will re-install a receiver aperture after the R&D and load work is done. Same story with the Marlin 94 x 32-20......scope will get used for load testing, and may stay atop it with the arrangement mentioned by Mark. A 4-power would do for most of what I'll use the little rifle for.

[versifier]

The 336 is already drilled & tapped on top, isn't it? Midway lists Weaver 63B for under $6, Weaver's Scout Mount for $50, and Grand Slam for $17 (Special rings needed, $24). There are lots of others that are available from many different manufacturers, both one and two piece - I'd rather have the one piece myself and would personally be inclined towards the Scout mount with an IER or red dot - I just used the Weavers an an example. Like Felix said, I'd go with the red dot, too, no hesitation. I have always been a firm believer in peep sights for carbines, but as I get older, I'm using opticals more and more. I like the red dots because you can keep both eyes open and not give up your depth perception as you must using only one eye. It helps for staying on a moving target. The Scout mount puts it forward so you can see all around it easily and speed up your target acquisition.

Make sure you have a bunch of ammo loaded up that you know shoots well in it.

Yes, you can do it. It's not rocket science.
The bases come with the screws you'll need. First, if you haven't already, you really need to get yourself a decent set of gunsmith's screwdrivers to avoid marring and ruining the screws (they're not too expensive and will last a lifetime, interchangabe tips are the way to go). Only Bubbas use the hardware store variety screwdrivers. You will also need a small tubelet of Loctite and a small amount of solvent to degrease the screw holes like mineral spirits or even a spray of starting fluid (ether).
Carefully, with the screwdriver tip that fits them, remove the little plug screws if present, then clean out the holes as thoroughly as possible. Also clean all oil residue from the threads of the mount screws. make sure you have the correct base(s) and that it (or they) line up properly with the screw holes. If all checks out OK, then put one drop of loctite in each hole, place the base over and put in the screws, seating them firmly, hand tight, not torqued so that the screw slot deforms. The loctite seal can be broken with a little muscle or a little heat, if it's ever necessary to do so, but in the mean time it will make sure that the base screws won't loosen under repeated recoil.

If you need rings, make sure they're the correct diameter for the scope's tube, either 1" or 30mm. They come in different heights, too, to accomodate scopes with large objective (front) lenses. Many red dot units don't need rings. I prefer Tasco rings on Weaver style bases because they have screws on both sides and they can be tightened in rotation to avoid canting the scope as they are snugged down.

Put the rifle in a gun vise or well padded bench vise and leave room for you to put your shoulder against the butt plate and your face on the comb of the stock in shooting position. Next, make sure the action is level from side to side and tighten up the vise until the rifle won't move while you are fiddling with it. A small machinist's level placed across the base(s) is great for this, but a short carpenter's will do if you have checked it out to make sure it is accurate.

If you are mounting a red dot with a built-in mount, skip the next section.

Put the bottoms of the rings on the base(s) and snug the screws down hand tight, making sure the rifle does not move as you do it. Place the scope on the half rings and slide it forward and backward gently to make sure the rings are in proper alignment. If they are not, DO NOT try to adjust them by using the scope as a wrench - it will destroy the scope. Come back here and ask and I or another will talk you through base adjustment. If all is well, and it usually is, you're good to go.
Place your shoulder against the butt and your face in shooting position, then look through the scope. Slide it back and forth slowly until the eye relief is proper and you have a good sight picture through it. This needs to be done with IER scopes on Scoout mounts, too, but the eye relief is not as critical. Place a drop of silicon adhesive (or epoxy, loctite, rosin, etc) in the bottom of each ring, place the scope over it and place the tops of the rings on, with their screws in but still loose. Place the level on the top adjustment knob and rotate the scope until it is level. There are special gizmos that can help you do this, too, but an accurate level does as good or better job of it. Gradually tighten each of the ring screws in rotation a turn or so at a time, keeping your eye on the level as you go to make sure. When all the screws are hand tight and everything is still level, put the level on the bench and go back and give all the mount and ring screws one more oomph to make sure they're firmly seated, but not so hard that you damage them. That's it! [smilie=w: [smilie=w: [smilie=w:

A bore sighter will then help you get on the paper quicker, but if you don't have access to one, it's not a big deal. Fire your first sight-in shots at very close range to make sure you're on the paper and then move out to 75 or 100yards or whatever range you want it set up for. [smilie=s:

[PatMarlin]

For my 336's-

I've got Leupold Quick Release rings on Weaver Steel 2 peice bases. 1- leupy 1.5 x 5, and a 2.5 x 8 on another.

Both used vari x III's, and when I want open sights I can pull the scopes off, and return to zero later.

I love those removable rings (rock solid) and both scopes kick butt... :Fire: