i have returned

[44minimum]

well dudes, it has been awhile since my last post but I have finally managed to produce some reloads.

questions and observations

1.after I had a loaded a couple of dozen of 38 cases with 5.0 grains of tight group I wanted to take one outside and try it just to make sure it would go bang but I noticed that the instructions for the dies said to never put 357 Magnum loads into 38 cases. I got rather hesitant to fire one so I quit messing with them and loaded up a dozen with 3.8 grains of tight group. I took one outside and fired it just to make sure that they would go bang. Then I read about Skeeter and others using 357 data for velocities over 1300 fps in 38 cases. I'm not the least bit concerned about 38 special cases with 357 Magnum loads in them finding their way into a 38 special gun, because I have 4 357s and zero 38s. is it okay for high velocity loads to be put into 38 special brass?

2. how much should I crimp? i tried to pull the bullet out of a couple of them with a pair of pliers but was unable to. Is that too much?what will happen if I have too much crimp? I know it will cause more pressure but how much is too much?

3. I was having a problem with trying to load 357 ammo with 38 special dies.I went around the problem by purchasing 500 once fired 38 special cases. My brother is going to give me another set of 357 Magnum diesand I will use themto load my magnum cases with.

I was going to post a picture of my reloads so that you guys could tell me if my reloads look okay and the bullet looks like it was seated okay, but the picture was too large and I cannot figure out how to shrink it.

am I correct in thinking that any load that is safe in a pistol will be safe in a lever action?

It has been a while but I am slowly making progress.

[versifier]

You didn't mention the bullet weight, but according to my Lee manual, there are .38spec+P loads with Titegroup for XTP jacketed bullets of 125gr (4.7-5.0) & 140gr (4.2-4.6), jacketed 146gr (4.0-4.4), XTP 158gr (3.9-4.3), & jacketed 170gr (3.7-4.0).
It sounds like you have enough crimp. Too little and the bullets will move forward out of the case and jam up the revolver by preventing cylander rotation when they stick out the front. How much is enough, depends on the recoil of the load. Back off the die in small increments until the bullets begin to move out. Working the necks too much by excessive crimping or excessive belling will cause the brass to work harden and split at the neck. [smilie=f:
It's not necessary to get a second die set. :-) You can use the same sizer for both without adjustment. Many die sets come with a spacing washer (.135" thick) so that you can set up your dies for .38spec and add the washer under the lock ring for .357mag cases. It's only needed for the belling and seating dies, and saves you the hassle of having to reset the lock rings every time you switch back and forth. They're not expensive and you can order one from Midway if the set doesn't have one with it already.
Any load that is safe in a revolver is safe in a lever action. BUT, I think you can shoot safely in the TC Contender & Encore at pressures that are unsafe in levers or revolvers. Some manuals have different listings for the .357 in rifles with some different slower burning powders to take advantage of the longer barrels.
At the bare minimum, you should have two new loading manuals, three or four is even better. Lyman and Lee are a really good place to start if you're going to shoot cast, Sierra, Hornady, Speer, Nosler are all good, too, and have a lot of interesting reading. Powder companies have their own manuals, too, many of them are available free. When you don't have the cast data you need, try the lightest listed load for a jacketed bullet of the same weight and start there. When in doubt, ask someone here. :wink: :violin:

[NVcurmudgeon]

44 minimum, welcome back! The only limit to flexibility of die use between .38 Special and .357 Magnum is that you can't crimp .38s in a .357 only seating die. Die makers finally saw the light and made the dual use sets of today, which are probably the old .38 Special dies with dual caliber stamping and a spacer washer!
As to never loading .357 loads in .38 cases, only VERY HEAVY TO MAXIMUM .357 loads are unsafe in .38 cases. The target and plinking loads that many of us use most of the time are no trouble at all. If your instuctions don't say, many makes of dies come with two seating screws, for roundnose and for semi-wadcutter bullets. The correct seating screw will be kinder to bullet noses. My trick for testing crimp is to press the nose of the completed rund against the bench with a vigorous thumb push. If the bullet doesn't slide into the case it is good to go. Enjoy!

[nelson133]

I shot a lot of the Skeeter Skelton .357 in a 38 case loads at one time. He (and I) used a 158 grain semiwadcutter gas check bullet from a Lyman mold. The power charge is somewhay reduced from 357 levels. As in the 357 load is 15 grains of 2400 and the 38 load is 13.5 as per SS. IMPORTANT - When and if you load these, crimp the bullet on the last grease groove to give extra space in the case for the powder. That is, this gives you 357 case volume in your 38 case. As I said, I used to shoot a lot of these and experience some increased case wear, but no other problems.

[David R]

44,

Your posts are looking much more positive.

We told you could do it!

Enjoy.

[Newboy]

Glad you are having some success.

The only time loading .357 mag loads into .38 cases causes problems, is when someone loads them into a .38 gun. It may be wise to put some red paint or something on the loads, so you will know not to shoot them in a .38.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
I have magmumized all my 38 special loads for many years. I just load them to the same overall length as my 357 loads & shoot.
Also do the same w/ 44specials for my 44mag.
Been doing it for 10-15yrs w/ no ill effects.