1st Reloading Question

[Lead-2]

Hello guys,

Let me first say I am sorry if this isn’t the correct place to post this question. I assumed it was because my question is relating to boolits (at least I am assuming since it is my only new change). I would appreciate any guidance on where it should be posted if this is not the correct spot. I have never posted a question yet.

Dad (lead-1) passed away late December. I inherited a 45 Long Colt revolver from him and decided to get into his reloading equipment. (I really wish I would have sat down with him and learned what he had to teach but that opportunity has come and gone). Needless to say I’ve shot this 45 colt a few times and understand why he liked it so much.

I’ve been shooting his left behind reloads. He casted his own boolits and performed his own reloading. I’ve started reloading myself using his formulas that he left wrote down for me. I’ve read his books and the reloading manual steps. I’ve reloaded some rounds using his boolits and haven’t had any issues. They look right, measure right, and shoot right.

Now my question.

Over the weekend I bought some extra 45 colt reloading components because I plan on continuing to reload. However with that being said I do not plan on casting my own boolits. I bought a bunch of Bobs lead Bullets with mostly the same specs that dads boolits have. I tried reloading about 25 rounds of 45 colt using the new Bobs Bullets instead of dads. I ran into this issue (see photos below). I’m getting correct measurements like I was with dads boolits but getting an odd ring around the case which doesn’t look right and makes the case harder to get into the cylinder. I am using a Lee 3 die set and an additional Lee factory crimp die. I am noticing it mostly after the bullet seat and crimp. Again when I seat and crimp dads boolits I have not had this issue at all. Can anyone offer information or advice on what I am doing wrong with these new Bobs Bullets.

Thanks in advance!

Lead-2

Also I’ve attached additional information below.

Dads Boolits:
250 Gr.
.452 FN

Bobs Bullets:
250 Gr.
.452 RNFP

[kevin c]

My condolences on the loss of your father.

I'm no expert with revolver reloading, but I do see that there isn't a groove where the left hand bullet is crimped. You may be seating to the same COL as the original load, but it looks like this design is meant to be crimped higher up, which means shorter seating, less internal case capacity, and therefore a need to rework the load recipe starting with significantly less powder.

I'm assuming you miked the new bullets and that they are the same diameter as your father's? How about bullet length?

Again, not reloading revolver, I can't tell if there is any other factor in play.

[OS OK]

It's hard to really tell from this picture alone and no measurements but...it looks like the crimp is adjusted too tight judging by the way the case mouth has dug into the cast.
I'm with Kevin c ... use the crimp groove provided and rework the recipe, drop your powder by a grain and a half or so and back off on that crimp, then slowly adjust it to where you get a good roll crimp without the distortion.


https://i.imgur.com/LHBC3RB.jpg

Another thought is that the cast doesn't look like it's sized correctly, it could be .454"?...measure them and see what you have, see what your Father's were sized?

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Welcome to the forum, Lead-2. We'll have you reloading like a pro in no time!

.452" diameter is pretty much the standard for .45 L. Colt now days, so it looks like you're o.k. there. Looking at the photos, the case on the left appears not to have had the case mouth expanded before the bullet was seated. Expanding the case mouth is a necessary step. Usually the sequence followed in reloading a cartridge is to resize and de-deprime (usually done at the same time by the sizing die), then to re-prime (make sure that the new primer is a bit below the surface of the surrounding case), to expand the case mouth, charge the case with powder, and seat the bullet. Next, you should crimp the mouth of the case around the bullet, but like anything it can be overdone. If you buy a Lee Factory Crimp die it has a carbide ring in the die that the case has to pass through when being crimped, so when it comes out of the die it is not only crimped, but has been given a final resizing if needed. One more word about re-priming and expanding the mouth of the case, this may or may not be two steps.
This will depend on your dies, press, and method of priming. Many presses have a priming arm, and the reloader (you) puts a primer into a appropriately sized cup on top of the arm. The case is run up into the die which expands the mouth, and then on the down stroke the primer arm is pushed inward and the case is pushed down over the new primer. But lots of folks have other priming methods that include priming with hand tools as a separate operation. If your .45 L. Colt dies are carbide dies you will have no need to lube them before resizing, but if your Dad used the older
all steel dies you will have to lube the cases before sizing, and later wipe the lube off of the completed cartridges before firing.

[georgerkahn]

I share my condolences on the loss of your dad. I note observing three rules vis revolver loading. First, drop a ready-to-load bullet alone in a cylinder hole -- just have cylinder open if it's a double action revolver; or, take the cylinder out for this if it's a SA -- e.g, like a Ruger Vaquero. If your bullet drops through, then the bullet is too small ("skinny"). On the other extreme, if the bullet requires more than three or four pounds pressure to push it through -- then, it needs to be resized to make it a bit thinner. If :) it passes through with just your finger pushing it through -- maybe two pounds pressure -- the sizing is just right.
Second is re cartridge over all length. I double-check this, making sure your completed load is at or a smidgeon to that printed in a good reloading manual, AND, when dropped in the open or not in revolver cylinder, there is a bit of air-space from the nose of loaded bullet to the front of the cylinder. Which brings up my third (to me) important point -- that you use a GOOD crimp -- generally a roll (as opposed to taper) crimp. From recoil after firing first round, it is incredibly easy for the loaded bullets in other rounds in cylinder to be moved. Perhaps a "sub" -- e.g., "3a" to this concerns the crimping groove on many cast bullets. If, to get requisite length -- which does in fact happen occasionally -- I use a cannalure tool sold by a vendor on this forum -- but, looking at the photos you posted, may (I hope) be not an issue.
I, too, have a love affair with the .45 Colt.
BEST wishes with yours!
geo

[Lead-2]

Well, the factory crimp die I’m using isn’t a roll crimp “from my understanding”. I believe it crimps the top part of the brass into the bullet. I chose not to use the roll crimp. I follow the directions the same for dads boolits to bobs but again I’m not sure why this is happening.

[Muddydogs]

Holly crimp Bat Man. You are applying a very heavy crimp to the bullet bearing surface instead of in the crimp groove. The crimp groove on the new bullet is the groove above where your case mouth stops. Like stated back off your powder charge, seat the bullet to the crimp groove and work the load back up. You can probably back off the crimp as well, from the pics it look a little to heavy.

[Lead-2]

Der Gebirgsjager,

I know I expanded the mouth when I loaded the powder. It it possible I didn’t expand it deep enough? Because I noticed when I seated the bullet it showed a ring around the case. It’s almost after that point when I crimped it using that lee factory crimp die it is much more noticeable.

[Muddydogs]

You just can't swap bullets and load the same. different bullet nose profiles are going to seat more or less into the case due to there shape. When changing components you are going to have to make die adjustments and powder charge adjustments depending on how hot the load is. Your dad's data that he left is just for the components he was using. It's time you start making your own loading notes for your own components.

[Muddydogs]

Der Gebirgsjager,

I know I expanded the mouth when I loaded the powder. It it possible I didn’t expand it deep enough? Because I noticed when I seated the bullet it showed a ring around the case. It’s almost after that point when I crimped it using that lee factory crimp die it is much more noticeable.

Read my post #7. Your issue isn't expanding.

[Lead-2]

Muddydogs,

I don’t quite understand how I can do this because it will make my COL significantly shorter than what I need won’t it? Now it’s 1.660 but if I seated the bullet deeper wouldn’t it make it significantly shorter?

[Mjdd23]

Lead2, sorry about your dad"s passing,I lost my dad this past May and I miss him dearly. I bet if dad was there he would show you step by step the process of reloading, so if you do not already have a reloading manual I suggest you pick one or two up and start at the beginning so you can take it step by step. It is not difficult when you follow the correct procedures and I bet you will discover your problem in no time at all. The Lee die sets also come with directions for setting up the dies. I believe your dies are improperly adjusted, the boolit is definately not seated deep enough on the left. Please take the time to familiarize yourself with manual and your die set up. Take your time and you will be making good ammo in no time! Stay safe and read the manual!
Mark

[LenH]

Lead-2, Welcome to the forum and my condolences for your father. I have been loading .45 colt for 40+ years. I have never used a factory crimp die on anything but
rifle rounds for cast bullets. And that is only used as a light crimp on said round. It appears that the die is seated too deep for the crimp, it also appears that the bullet
was grabbed by the crimp die. You may need to back that die out a bit to get the correct crimp. You shouldn't have to force the press handle
down to crimp that round. Not sure if this helps but just the ramblings of an old man.

I cut my teeth on .45 Colt in reloading and casting. A friend invited me to go with him and his father. His dad gave me a box of his reloads and his Ruger Blackhawk and then
told me to keep up with his brass and then said be careful and have fun. He was always close by and kept an eye on us. I was 15 at the time and bugged the heck out of him from then
on to show me how to reload. He did and the rest is all ancient history.

Keep at it and you'll have everything adjusted and be making good hand loads in short order.

[Walks]

My Condolences on your loss.

If you have a copy of the Reloading Die set instructions, read them carefully. That may help solve your problem.
They may also be found on Lee's Website.
I would concentrate on seating the New bullet to the crimp groove. And then once the die is properly adjusted to seat the bullet at the crimp groove. Move to the Lee factory crimp die. Read the instructions and Follow Them. You should make out ok.

And Welcome to the Website & Reloading.

[Lead-2]

Well,

I’ll add this. I’ve got some manuals and have been reading of of them and web forums. I have very specifically followed the Lee Die instructions.

I guess my next question would be if I seat that bullet (bobs bullet) further into the case as you guys have suggested won’t that give me a significantly less COL then what I’m reading it should be? As in now I’m at 1.660 and if I seat that new bullet into the case it would be significantly shorter?

[kevin c]

Have you changed anything on your father's press? The settings are for his bullet, not the new one. If you changed settings to get the same COL, you'd still not be right for the new bullet, given the different location of the crimp groove. This also goes for removing the flare, with or without a roll crimp.

Bottom line is a different bullet, even of the same weight, needs new settings and, even more important, new load work up. So, yes, shortening the round to get the crimp into the groove means more pressure in the case from the original powder charge, and the need to rework the load with less powder to make sure it is safe.

Really, the only way to stay exactly the same in all respects is to cast, size, lube (or coat) and load your father's bullet yourself.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Muddydogs' assessment that your crimp is too heavy may well be correct. Whether trying to force a bullet into an insufficiently expanded case mouth, or crimping too heavily, the end result looks like a crushed case. Too heavy a crimp can seriously increase pressure.

I'm a little surprised to learn that you are already using the LFCD (Lee Factory Crimp Die), because no matter what the problem is, a trip in and out of one of these dies should leave the cartridge sized enough to fit into the revolver without difficulty. Perhaps the instructions for the die were lost? You can click on Lee's logo at the top of the page and go to their website. Look around, and you will find instructions and videos for all of their tools.

What I can tell you is that when you run the loaded cartridge into the LFCD and look down through the hole from the top, you can observe the collet close. If it closes until the gaps between the collet jaws disappear, you've achieved maximum crimp. No more is desirable, and if you force it more you will get something like in your photo and you will likely ruin the die. Often, something a little short of fully closed gives sufficient crimp. It doesn't take very much pressure on the press handle to achieve a good crimp.

There are two other common methods of crimping as well, if the LFCD isn't to your liking. Most brands of reloading dies have a Roll Crimp feature built into the seating die. To use it you load a cartridge to the length you desire, then drop the ram so the case is out of the seating die. Back out the seating stem so that it is no longer touching the top of the bullet, then turn the die body only into the press about another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Run the cartridge back into the die and you should be able to feel it crimp. Lower the ram, inspect the cartridge for degree of crimp. If not heavy enough screw the die into the press a little bit farther, if too heavy back it out some. Be sure to screw the seating stem out a few turns before making these adjustments, because you'll seat the bullet too deeply into the case if you forget to do so. The LFCD is a development only a few years old, and before that roll crimping and taper crimping were the two main choices. Both still have their disciples. The Taper Crimp usually requires you to purchase a separate die specifically made for that type of crimp, although some dies sets come with them. It is usually used on ammo intended for semi-auto pistols, but some folks do use the system for revolvers also.

Your concern about Cartridge Overall Length (C.O.L.) is unnecessary if you shorten your loads to use the crimping groove. In a revolver's cylinder everything is contained within the cylinder walls, and C.O.L. really only comes into play if your cartridges are loaded so long that the nose protrudes from the front of the cylinder and binds up the action from turning. It really can't be too short. A wadcutter-type bullet is flush, or almost flush, with the case mouth, and you can't get any shorter than that. Again, Muddydogs is correct in that you'll get more satisfactory loads if you utilize the crimping groove cast into the bullet. Screw the seating stem out most of the way from the die, then start a loaded cartridge into the die. Screw the seating stem down so that the seating plug on the end of the stem contacts the top of the bullet. Lower the press ram down some moving the bullet down from the seating plug and screw the stem in a couple of turns, then run the cartridge back into the die so the readjusted stem and plug will push the bullet farther into the case. Lower the ram, inspect the cartridge, and repeat the process until you have the mouth of the case right on the crimping groove. Then, if you're going to roll crimp, you should be able to adjust the seating die for roll crimping as I've already explained by again backing out the seating stem, screwing only the die body in about half a turn so it crimps, then screwing the seating stem in so the plug again touches the top of the seated and crimped bullet. Thereafter every cartridge will seat to proper depth and crimp at the same time. Or, after finding the proper seating depth, remove the cartridge and run it through the LFCD. Some reloaders prefer to separate the seating and crimping into two steps, and some dies will not allow this system, but most do.

One last thing that kind of bothers me.....perhaps you should share your load information with us, specifically the name or number of the powder you are using, and how much. If your LFCD wasn't somehow put out of adjustment when removed or inserted into your press, and your Dad was purposely using a very heavy crimp, then he may have been loading near, at , or over maximum loads and you should check to assure that they are safe loads. Using heavy loads in .45 L. Colt revolvers is not uncommon, and he may have been concerned about the unfired bullets in the cylinder backing out of the cases from recoil during firing. It wouldn't hurt to get an opinion from the Forum Brotherhood about your loads, and you should also consult some reloading manuals for recommended loads. I predict that entering the reloading hobby is going to be some of the most fun, and educational fun, that you'll ever have. Stay in touch---we'll be happy to coach you along. :-D

[mdi]

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating, world of reloading!

New reloader hints; measure your bullets with a micrometer to be sure of what you have. Seat bullets to crimp groove and disregard "book OAL" (the bullet designers located the crimp groove in the correct place so use it). For standard low pressure loads, 45 Colt, don't worry about "deep seating increasing pressure". Use a standard roll crimp die and put the FCD away, at least for your first 3,000 handloads. I would suggest adding a copy of The ABCs of Reloading and read it, lots of good basic info. Reloading is not rocket surgery and all you have to do is think, and follow directions. Don't overthink the process.

My #1 Rule I go by and suggest to new reloaders; I pay very little (no) attention to any load data I see on any forum, hear from any range rat, good intended friend, gun counter clerk, pet loads website, or gun shop guru. I get all my starting and max data from published reloading manuals with a little from powder manufacturers/distributor's websites. In 1970 I had a squib and no Kabooms with few problems. And I get a load from my reloading manuals before I buy any components.

Go slow. Double check everything. And most important, have fun...

[jonp]

Seat and crimp in two separate steps. Flare just enough to get the boolit into the case without shaving lead.

[Muddydogs]

Muddydogs,

I don’t quite understand how I can do this because it will make my COL significantly shorter than what I need won’t it? Now it’s 1.660 but if I seated the bullet deeper wouldn’t it make it significantly shorter?

The COL listed in reloading books only applies to the bullet and firearm used for testing the book loads. You need to work up your own COL that fits your firearm and bullet type. The new bullet is designed to be seated deeper in the case to use the crimp groove. So since the bullet is seated deeper You will need to back off the powder charge and load some test loads working back up the powder charge ladder watching for pressure signs as you shoot each powder weight. How much you back off the charge and how many charge weight steps will depend on how close the original load is to book max powder charge. If the original load is a light load you might be ok just loading and shooting your new bullet, if the original load is a medium weight powder charge load you might want to back off a couple grains and work back up and if the original load is a max powder charge load you will probably want to just start at the lowest charge weight and rework the load all together.

[725]

Straight wall cartridges require the 3 die set: full length size, expander die (set enough to also bell the mouth), and a seater die. The bell is required so as not to shave lead as the bullet is set in place. The expander part of that die is to shape the case to the right dimension to accept the bullet. A seater die can, when so adjusted provide a roll crimp, but like others, I prefer the Lee Factory Crimp Die to effect a taper crimp.
So much of reloading is problem solving. Just figure out what's going on and address it. Questions answered here are a big help.

[725]

Straight wall cartridges require the 3 die set: full length size, expander die (set enough to also bell the mouth), and a seater die. The bell is required so as not to shave lead as the bullet is set in place. The expander part of that die is to shape the case to the right dimension to accept the bullet. A seater die can, when so adjusted provide a roll crimp, but like others, I prefer the Lee Factory Crimp Die to effect a taper crimp.
So much of reloading is problem solving. Just figure out what's going on and address it. Questions answered here are a big help.

[Muddydogs]

I don't want to come across as a turd so forgive me if I do. You really need to slow down and gather some more info before you proceed. You appear to have just enough information to be dangerous thinking your just fine fueled by you dad's reloading notes. If you stick to your dad's info you'll be great but as you have found out just substituting one component for another isn't working. You need to start from the ground up to figure out this reloading deal then start messing with your dad's information once you have enough knowledge to understand whats going on. I have a feeling that your dad's loading notes have given you a false sense of security and I would hate for you to damage the 45 LC he left you.

Spend some time surfing around this site and others like it, watch some YouTube videos and keep asking questions.

[1hole]

Lead, you're massively over crimping and that's causing your poor cases to collapse back on themselves!

Back that seat/crimp die up about a turn and a half (1/8" +/-) and try again. (Forget the book OAL, that's a max length for revolvers to revolve, it's not a minimum.)

Adjust your seating depth so the case mouth/front edge is about even with the upper part of the crimping groove and then try crimping again. There's no need to squeeze the case mouth smaller than the depth of the crimp groove, adjust what ever to make your crimped ammo look like it came from Lead 1!

Your bullets were made for your cartridge so you need not worry about decreasing internal volume and dangerously increasing pressure simply by seating a little deeper in a book load. The .45 LCP is a large case, it's not a high pressure cartridge and you shouldn't be using twitchy fast burning powders anyway. So, with book loads, it's virtually impossible for you to dangerously increase peak pressure in a case like that by simply changing the seating depth a little bit.

[oconeedan]

Ask for someone local to you to help you get started, if possible. It will help you learn much faster, with fewer mistakes and wasted money. Put out a post for help, there has to be someone on this forum that can help you. You can go to them and learn by watching them, or have the come to you. Either way, you can learn more in a shorter time.

That said, you can learn by email, or forum as you are doing, it will just take more time and patience.

I'm sorry you received your handgun the way you did, but hopefully you will enjoy it the rest of your life.
Dan

[Lead-2]

Kevin, this makes perfect sense now and answers my questions. Sounds like I have some new loads to work out. Thank you!

[onelight]

Your problem is die adjustment assuming you are using them in the proper sequence.
We don't have enough information to tell you if what you are using is a safe load for the gun you are loading for.
I know how you feel I learned by myself but going slowly and studying the directions for set up and adjustment will keep it safe and fun. Bullets of different designs that are seated to the same overall length that have different shapes can cause different pressures and can be dangerous .
It is really important to refer to a manual when changing components and find the starting load for the components you are using , powder , primer and bullet or a very close match for safety and work up . I am sure your dads loads are good , but work up your own loads safely.
The revolver Lee carbide factory crimp dies that I have all roll crimp the auto pistol die sets taper crimp.
It looks like the crimp in your picture is about a 1/4 inch down from the case mouth that is why it looks like that. They will not seat the bullet deeper it must be at the correct OAL before crimping.
Do you have the directions for your crimp die ? The carbide factory crimp dies adjust differently than the die in a 3 die set.
Hang in there we all had to learn in the beginning and it's tough sometimes at the bench by yourself .

[Lead-2]

Hello Everyone Again!!!

Let me reiterate! I am someone who does a lot of reading researching and reviewing. I have read the instructions to my die set each time I’ve reloaded. I know the steps by heart at this point. I have been referring to the Lyman reloading manual as well. I have had no issues with duplicating my dads reloads which are consistent with the Lyman book COL 1.660. The issue I ran into was with this new bullet at COL 1.660

I guess I assumed being the same size and weight that the other components could be copied over. I now understand this is wrong.

I didn’t realize that the COL could be less than 1.660 however I guess if I would have paid closer attention to the other bullets (Ones I’m not using which is why I over looked this information) I would have seen they were shorter than COL 1.660.[smilie=b:

I went ahead and seated the bullet to the crimping groove as directed which gave me a COL of 1.570 which ironically my Lyman manual list a 250gr. Lead boolit to match that COL.:groner:

Once I went to this COL and then used the Lee Factory Crimp die (The same as I have been with dads boolits) it has worked perfect.

I am now reloading a few different (Lower amount) powder charges. Although I could have stuck with dads original grain of 8.0 Unique according to my Lyman reloading manual. I feel it is probably better to start out with different / lower powder charges (Still within the specs of the Lyman manual) and work up in size to see what works best with this new boolit.

Again everyone thank you for the help. I am sure it won’t be my last question but everyone’s input and caution indications are greatly appreciated.

I am only reloading revolver calibers at this point but plan on moving to rifle and other semi-auto calibers down the road.

Again thank you all!

Here is a photo of the issue resolved!

-Bryan

256534

[onelight]

Hello Everyone Again!!!

Let me reiterate! I am someone who does a lot of reading researching and reviewing. I have read the instructions to my die set each time I’ve reloaded. I know the steps by heart at this point. I have been referring to the Lyman reloading manual as well. I have had no issues with duplicating my dads reloads which are consistent with the Lyman book COL 1.660. The issue I ran into was with this new bullet at COL 1.660

I guess I assumed being the same size and weight that the other components could be copied over. I now understand this is wrong.

I didn’t realize that the COL could be less than 1.660 however I guess if I would have paid closer attention to the other bullets (Ones I’m not using which is why I over looked this information) I would have seen they were shorter than COL 1.660.[smilie=b:

I went ahead and seated the bullet to the crimping groove as directed which gave me a COL of 1.570 which ironically my Lyman manual list a 250gr. Lead boolit to match that COL.:groner:

Once I went to this COL and then used the Lee Factory Crimp die (The same as I have been with dads boolits) it has worked perfect.

I am now reloading a few different (Lower amount) powder charges. Although I could have stuck with dads original grain of 8.0 Unique according to my Lyman reloading manual. I feel it is probably better to start out with different / lower powder charges (Still within the specs of the Lyman manual) and work up in size to see what works best with this new boolit.

Again everyone thank you for the help. I am sure it won’t be my last question but everyone’s input and caution indications are greatly appreciated.

I am only reloading revolver calibers at this point but plan on moving to rifle and other semi-auto calibers down the road.

Again thank you all!

Here is a photo of the issue resolved!

-Bryan

256534
You did good , we never know how much or how little someone knows some of this stuff can do bad things so we are probably over cautious .
No offense or disrespect intended.
Welcome to the forum.

[Gar10]

Lead-2, Sorry for you loss! Glad to see you got you issue worked out. The only thing I have to add is now you are probably hooked, and will eventually be experimenting with reloading more than you ever imagined. Have a good one!

[Lead-2]

You did good , we never know how much or how little someone knows some of this stuff can do bad things so we are probably over cautious .
No offense or disrespect intended.
Welcome to the forum.

No offense at all. I understand and I appreciate everyone’s help. He told me you guys were a good group of people to reach out to.
My dad told me in hospice. “Boy if you start getting into my reloading equipment don’t blow yourself up.” My only regret with reloading at this point is not sitting down and having him teach me.

At the time I was one of those guys who kept it simple and really owned few calibers to keep ammunition buying easy. Now that’s not the case and I’ve found it’s quiet enjoyable and relaxing. Plus I recently went to midnight shift so it gives me something to do when the wife is sleeping and I’m off.

-Bryan

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Hey....that round looks good; and nothing wrong with 8 gr. Unique.

[jonp]

Hey....that round looks good; and nothing wrong with 8 gr. Unique.

Nope! Just loaded some of that today

[kmw1954]

Well done and welcome to the forum. Now that you are here don't be a stranger!

I just came across you post as I have been busy working out a few of my own reloading issues with a 200gr 45acp Cast SWC. As you found there are plenty here willing to help.

A real shame that you didn't get to connect with your dad before his passing and learn what he had to offer. I spent the last 10 years of my working life working a 3rd shift schedule, one that required working 6 days every other week. It wasn't until after I quit working that I realized just how much of life with my family that I missed out on. Things I can never recover. Now I have to really evaluate whether the financial gain was truly worth it with what I missed out on.

[mdi]

Now, quit posting and shoot 'em! There ain't much more satisfying than assembling some handloads and shootin' them (unless you add some of your home cast boolits!)...

[kevin c]

Kevin, this makes perfect sense now and answers my questions. Sounds like I have some new loads to work out. Thank you!

From all of us, you're welcome. Have fun shooting, and here's to hoping you won't rule out casting your father's bullet yourself with his mold (I can't think of many better ways to honor his memory).

[Taterhead]

GENERALLY, revolver COL is easy: seat to the top of the crimp groove. This assumes that the cylinder is sufficiently long to accommodate COL. THEN, do the appropriate load workup.

As you've found, most all bullets will call for a different COL. COL for auto-loader handguns can be a bit tricker to pin down.

Welcome to the hobby. These guys will have you getting some alloy, a pot and a mold or two before long.

[fcvan]

Bryan, you picked a great cartridge to start with, one of my favorites. I’m glad you were able to get answers to help sort out your issue.

Regarding your dad. Last month, he lifted up a prayer request for us to pray for him. I messaged him to receive his number so that I could pray for him and with him. I called and left a message and received no reply. I prayed again and somehow knew he had already been called home.

Your father taught you well that there is a brotherhood of folks who are willing to help. Know also, as he did, reloading assistance is only a part of help available here. Your brother in Christ, Frank

[super6]

Lead-2 Has a ring to it. Glad your here!

[LenH]

I don't know how many .45 Colt rounds I have loaded with 8 gr of Unique. That is the original starting load in the Lyman reloading manual I got back in the early 70's.
Now all of the newer manuals have a load considerably way lower than that. Still load with 8.0 grains.

[crackers]

"I didn’t realize that the COL could be less than 1.660 ..."

Do understand that the reason for stipulating a COL is it's influence on pressure. Progressive powder burns faster as the pressure increases. In the confines of smaller pistol cases, pressure can rise rapidly when the overall length is arbitrarily shortened, causing more bullet to intrude in the case.

[lar45]

Lead-2 Welcome to the forum.
The 45 Colt is one of my absolute favorites.
I don't think that we've heard which gun you are shooting them out of.
Pics are always appreciated ;)

[Taterhead]

"I didn’t realize that the COL could be less than 1.660 ..."

Do understand that the reason for stipulating a COL is it's influence on pressure. Progressive powder burns faster as the pressure increases. In the confines of smaller pistol cases, pressure can rise rapidly when the overall length is arbitrarily shortened, causing more bullet to intrude in the case.

That's right. What gets lost sometimes is that the depth of the heel is what is important in terms of volume underneath the bullet. Different profiles of a similar weight will locate the heel at different depths inside the case, keeping COL constant.

That is why COL is not plug-and-play, and load data is a guide and not absolute gospel.

[tankgunner59]

Lead-2, first please let me say I'm terribly sorry to hear of the loss of your Dad. My Dad passed in 2009 and I understand where you are with it. I myself have and use a Lee FCD with all the calibers I reload and it takes some learning by trial and error at first. When crimping with the LFCD, you should feel just a bit of resistance at the very end of the stroke of the press handle, especially on cast boolits. Heavy crimp can cause dangerous pressures in you firearm. If you're feeling a lot of resistance you definitely need to back the die off some.
COL is actually more relative to the boolit profile rather than the boolit weight. When reading the load data in the manual for your boolit weight, try to match the profile of yours to one in your manual. I personally suggest you acquire a copy of Lymans Cast Bullet Handbook. It has a more extensive selection of bullet profiles, and it's all for cast bullets only.

[nccaster77]

Seat and crimp in two separate steps. Flare just enough to get the boolit into the case without shaving lead.

And be sure your boolit is sized correctly .452 for the awesome .45 Colt You’ve basically crimped before it was seated and that caused your case to bulge. easy peasy :Fire:

[John Boy]

Lead, the SAMMI listing for COL MAXIMUM length is 1.60 not 1.660. And 45 Colt reloads can be as short as 1.50. This is the length I use in my Lightning pump rifle for them to chamber properly

[Pb Burner]

Welcome to the forum Lead-2. Sorry about the loss of your father. I'd been following this thread and was happy to see you got it figured out. I, as others did, saw the problem from your pictures, but others had already replied. There is definitely a lot of good people and help here.
It sounds like you have a good basic understanding of the process.
Also, you might have someone on here close to your location that would be willing to help you with other issues that might come up, or to just show you some good reloading safety practices. There are some long standing members in Ohio. I live on the eastern Ohio border, not sure where your at in Ohio. I have been reloading for around 45 yrs, and have learned some things the hard way, no mentor back then...
Feel free to PM me if your interested and somewhere near east central Ohio.