Has anyone used Jake's Moly Ceresin?

[pdgraham]

Looking at buying 10.. maybe 20 sticks of it on ebay for $14.00/10 plus $3.85 shipping

Jake's Moly Ceresin (http://cgi.ebay.com/Jakes-Moly-Ceresin-Cast-Bullet-Lube-10-Sticks_W0QQitemZ7204939137QQcategoryZ71113QQssPage NameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Has anyone used this lube?

What did you think of it?

[Johnch]

At that price I may try some .
If I don't like it I will not be out that much .
:holysheep I am cheap and still thinking of buying it .

Johnch

[Wayne Smith]

Hard enough to require a heater. No, thank you.

[fecmech]

Magma Engineering has their hard lube at $10./lb which is 9 solid sticks. I've been using it for standard and magnum pistol with very good results. http://www.magmaengineering.com/supplies.php

[StarMetal]

To tell you fellows the truth I don't think there is a whole heck of alot of difference between lubes. It's hard to beat the good old Javelina which is 50/50 Alox/Beeswax. I'd like to know if Javelina still uses the 2138F Alox though since it was supposed to be discontinued.

I was talking to Dan from Mtn Moulds when he was a member on our forum. We both come to the conclusion that bullet lube first and more important role is as a sealer and second as a lubricator. Everyone concocts up their super duper lube with some super lubricate out there like moly grease, STP, Slick 50, or whatever comes into their minds thinking this is going to make super lube. Shucks I think to certain velocitys that just about anything would work like straight wax, soap, earwax, etc. The only real difference I see in lubes is the difference between hard and soft lubes, now that's real. Other then that nothing.

Joe

[felix]

Joe, what we need in a lube is one having close to infinite viscosity on brass, and close to zero viscosity on barrel steel and human skin, with the capability of having easy shearing properties. That would be a polymer, and probably won't be invented until everyone in the world is shooting cast. ... felix

[StarMetal]

You gave me an idea Felix. I may just have the thing in my junk box. I'll experiment and let you know.

Joe

[Cherokee]

Let us know how it works. I tend to agree with StarMetal but others say there are differences. If it works, great.

[robertbank]

Yup I bought some and will buy some more. I hae been using his red lube with a heater. Before that I was using Lyman black alox lube. The Jakes product eliminated the leading I was experiencing in my .45acp (1st 1/2" of the barrel). I find it to be a great lube and have used in in 30-06 with no leading experienced.

I also have some tubes of their blue lube but have yet to try it.

I intend to stick to this lube. Relatively inexpensive and he ships to Canada which is a bonus for me.

Hope this helps.

Bob

ps Bought my first batch off of ebay as well.

[pdgraham]

Thanks BoB..

I'm going to order some after the new year... I've got enough Lyman Super Moly to last till then...

I'm temped to by 20....

I've got this brand new Lyman heater just sitting here.. saying "Use me.. Use me..."

Does anyone else's Lyman heater talk to them..??...

[robertbank]

Here is his email address. His prices posted are:

10- Sticks for $15.
20 Sticks for $28.

You can mix and match which is what I did. Think I should just have bought the red and saved trying to figure out which was best. LOL

jhilde@aol.com
ph # 309 645 6201

Jeffrey Hilde Jake's Products Co.
111 E Melbouorne
Peoria, IL
61603

Seems like a pretty straight shooter on the phone.

Glad to be of help. Yup mine did for three years while I used up all the Black lube that came with my RCBS Lubrimatic. :wink:

Bob

[pdgraham]

Thanks :)

[JDL]

Shucks I think to certain velocitys that just about anything would work like straight wax, soap, earwax, etc. The only real difference I see in lubes is the difference between hard and soft lubes, now that's real. Other then that nothing.

Joe

Joe, I think you're right. In the late '70's, I used lithum grease, not on the boolit, but just a squirt on top of the dacron filler. I had a .303 Enfield and didn't push the velocity and never experienced any leading. Can't remember the accuracy potential and shure wouldn't store any for any length of time. -JDL

[StarMetal]

I've been watching all the reports of different lubes since I joined the forum a long time ago. Seems, like you found out, that just about everything works to some degree. Thing is alot of our shooting is done in warm weather, thus new lube testing. If it performs good in warm weather, which most lubes will, doesn't mean they will in cold temperatures. I'm on the trail of something entirely different and got Felix involved in it somewhat too. You all will have to wait until I get this going.

Joe

[robertbank]

Maybe you guys are right but when I went to a hard lube the leading in my .45acp ended. With the soft alox lube I always got leading in the first 1/2 in. of rifling. always. None since.

Stay Safe

[StarMetal]

Alot of us have used soft lube in alot of calibers besides 45acp and never got leading. I used Javelina for years, which is a traditions NRA 50/50 Alox/Beeswax soft lube and my 45acp never leaded on it. In fact I've never got my 45acp's leaded up doing anything. Might be there are other circumstances that did cause your 45acp to lead. It does show that your hard lube is good tho since it stopped it.

Joe

[Blackwater]

Felix and all, speaking of "polymer" as a lube, did any of y'all ever try those plastic coated soft lead HP's that I think it was Federal put out some years ago? How did they do? The glossy mags said no leading, but I've come to not completely trust what I read in the glossies, now that they seem to be much more responsive and servile to their advertisers than to us shooters. Was that maybe the first entry in the "polymer lube" bidniss?

[StarMetal]

Those are NyClads. S&W came up with them first and sold the idea to Federal. They are kind of a Nylon and they work good.

Joe

[robertbank]

Used Ideal black lube -assume it is a alox based lube. Casting 200 & 220 gr boolits from wheelweghts sized to .452 got leading in my Para P-14, SSP, and three Norincos - all in the first 1/2 in. of rifling. Problem is not uncommon. Since going to hard lube no more leading. I know other guys who have reported no leading in their .45acp 1911's using alox or other lubes. Just not my experience. Incidently my 9MM in three different guns NEVER leaded up using the old Ideal lube and still don't as long as I stay under 5 gr Unique under 125 gr LSWC boolits. Go ove r4.9 gr and I got leading problems using alox and Jakes red.

Stay Safe

[StarMetal]

Wow...I've definately got pistol bullets to a very high velocity with Javelina, same with rifle bullets. I know Buckshot has stated that he got Javelina up to near 2400 fps in a rifle.

Joe

[HotGuns]

Ive tried Jakes lubes and they work great. For the money its the best deal on the net.

Currently I am using several sticks of the Red, it seems to work very well on both rifle and pistol bullets.

Im sold on the hard lubes. I doubt that I'll ever mess with a soft lube ever again.

[fecmech]

Wow...I've definately got pistol bullets to a very high velocity with Javelina, same with rifle bullets. I know Buckshot has stated that he got Javelina up to near 2400 fps in a rifle.

Joe
I have too Joe but not in the 9MM. I can easily run 1300-1400fps in the .357 0r .44 with both hard lubes and Javelina with no leading(1600fps in the .357 rifle). Once I start getting up around 1150-1200fps in the 9mm I start to get streak leading. There is not a lot and it does'nt accumulate but it's there. Nick

[robertbank]

Much depends I think on the depth of the rifling and rate of twist. My .45acp guns were notorious for leading in the first 1/2 in of the rifling. Cured that with hard lube. THe 9MM were never a problem with the soft lube and when I went hard still had no problems. Once I crossed the 5 gr of Unique got leading in my Trojan 9MM and my HiPower. Backed off to 4.7 gr and no more leading.

I use a gas check boolit in my 30-06 so can't comment on rifles.

All my boolits are water quenched wheelweights. Probably don't have to do that with the .45acp but I cast both 9MM and .45acp at the same time so I end up water quenching them all. To lazy to move water bucket.

Stay Safe

[StarMetal]

In alot of my 45acps I have shot darn near pure lead bullets with Javelina on the with no leading. Some of them were hollow base conical intended for the 1858 Remington cap n ball, so I couldn't drive them real real fast or the skirts would blow off , but probably as fast as the normal range for 45 acp bullet.

Yes I've have guns over time that I've leaded up, but I can honestly say (God strike me dead if I'm lying) have never ever had severe wear your elbows out cleaning type of leading in anything...honest. I've been lucky I guess in either good barrels or assembling my ammo just right with good cast bullets. To even go farther I have shot alot of homemade shotshells from 45 acp, 357 mag, 45 long colt with not alot of leading there. None of those had any kind of shot cups either.

One thing too I check my bore frequently while shooting cast and if I see the beginning of some form of leading that seems to be progressing rapidly, I quit shooting, I don't shoot up all the loads I have. I'll clean and shoot them again another time and when gone make adjustment to get rid of the problem.

Joe

[Old Jim]

The only significant leading I have ever seen in my handguns was from a "blue" lubed bullet from a manufacturer that is no longer in business. The lube was so hard bullets dug out of a gravel bank still had intact rings of lube visible. I've used Lee Liquid Alox, Saeco, Javelina, homemade moly beeswax and homemade auto lube bullets. All of these have worked well as fast or as slow as I've been able to drive them.

[robertbank]

For those with handguns that do experience leading try this method.

Take copper mesh Chore Boy pads and wrap around old cleaning brush. Two or three passes and lead is gone. Faster than Lewis Lead remover or any chemical lead remover I know of.

Stay Safe

Bob