Ingot Mold Questions

[OTShooter]

I have a Lee ingot mold, and I'm going to buy at least one more - possibly a Lyman, if not another Lee. (I am not trained or equipped to "make my own": this is about commercially available ingot molds.)

How full do I pour alloy in this type of mold to get the stated 3 (in the Lee) or 4 (in the Lyman) pound ingots? The issue is that it looks like you either pour up to the separations between the ingot parts, or you pour the whole mold full then (?) break the ingot parts apart. Which is the right way? Or IS THERE a "right way?"

Finally, Lyman's ingot mold costs about twice what Lee's does...They're both aluminum, and the Lyman ain't that much bigger, so what's the deal?

[swamp]

I pour up to the edges. I don't use the 1/4 lb Lee holes very often.
swamp

[JBinMN]

I don't know if there is a "right way", but I just fill to the separations, and that works for me right fine.

Others may do it different, but I reckon it is a personal thing to choose to do with no real "right or wrong" to it.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Different alloys will weight different if poured to the same level. So it will be near impossible to consistently pour 1 lb ingots.
So as JBinMN says, there is no "right way".

Is Lyman making ingot molds out of aluminum now?
They use to be cast Iron.

With all that said, I prefer 2 lb ingots. A recent Group Buy had 4 cavity molds that would cast 2+ lb ingots.

[Rich/WIS]

I have two SAECO and one Lyman and one Lee mold. Okay when emptying the pot but for smelting use aluminum muffin tins.

[nvbirdman]

Go to a thrift store and look for something of cast iron or aluminum you can use for an ingot mold. I have one of the cast iron corncob pans and a few aluminum muffin pans. They were very cheap (less than the Lee mold).

[Flailguy]

Look at goodwill or salvation army for muffin pans.
See if the wife will part with one ? Mine did as it had a bit of rust... she got a new one so we were both happy.

[Walks]

I have collected Ingot molds for almost 50yrs. I use different brands for Different alloys.
I only fill to just below the edge of each partition.

One of the best ingot molds out there is the Cast Iron Scone Pan made by LODGE. It makes 7 ingots of approximately 2 1/2 lbs each. And they are big enough to write on. A heavy Black Marker will let you differentiate between alloys. Or paint the ends different colors.

I bought mine at Ralphs (Kroeger) Supermarket on sale $10+change. Normally $26, which is almost what most Brand Name 1lbx4 ingot molds cost.

Regardless of cost it will give you a LOT More ingots for the money.

[mdi]

I wouldn't overthink this process. Ingots are just a way to store lead. Exactly how much they weigh isn't very important.I have purchased lead from a sponsor/vendor and sometimes it came in "Lyman ingots". When I weighed the total amount the weight came out close to what I ordered, but individual ingots can vary. I use muffin pans mostly and occasionally small loaf pans. I often fill the muffin pan cups up to near top, and usually just an inch or two in the loaf pans...

[fredj338]

There is no right way. I have a RCBS mold I use for pure lead only. I just fill it full. I have larger molds for diff alloy. Every alloy type has a diff mold shape. Easier to keep track of things for me.

[Kraschenbirn]

I've got an old-fashioned cast iron muffin pan that produces almost exactly 2 lb. ingots from COWW and just 2 or 3 oz. over that from cleaned and fluxed range scrap....that's 24 to 26 lb. at a time if I fill all 12 cavities. I've had it for several years, but IIRC I paid $5 for it at a rural church rummage sale.

For lino and specific alloys, I use a couple 4-cavity Lyman molds and label the ingots with a Sharpie.

Bill

[Gtek]

I just fill to top so four are made and easier to deal with for me whatever their weight are. One thing I started doing is using aluminum soda cans for a faster run. Cut top out with can opener and rinse well, MUST BE PERFECTLY DRY INSIDE BEFORE USE!!!!!! Fill right up to neck and about two to three hours later you can almost touch it, a pair of diagonal cutters and needle nose and roll off can. Makes usually 8 pounders and change and in use after first one melts ease second in and away you go in little bottom pour. Use cans with water on cold pot to double check volume so no Lava flows.

[Ed_Shot]

Non-stick muffin pans from W-mart. I've been using the same six for years.

[georgerkahn]

I was happily surprised to see Mr. Nelson, of Night Owl Enterprises (NOE) -- a forum Vendor Sponser manufactures and sells ingot moulds. Not really the least expensive option one might find, but -- I have purchased and use a few of these -- the QUALITY is ever so much better than others I have. Just an option... which I endorse. http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=95
BEST -- whichever/whatever you use.
geo249182

[Bazoo]

I have one of the Lyman aluminum moulds. I don't have the lee but it's very similar from the pictures. The lee might be nice for alloys other than wheel weights so you get half pound ingots. Along with the Lyman, I have 2 or 3 muffin pans I use and 4-5 I've not used yet. I throw my ingots in a 5 gallon bucket so I don't care what shape they are. The Lyman ones sure are pretty though.

I have some of the mini muffin tins that I'll use for tin should I ever have a meltable quantity.

[OTShooter]

I've had a bad experience with what was supposed to be an aluminum muffin pan. Nope. It was tinned (and very, very thin) steel. Of course the alloy stuck to the tinning... Yuck.

The thrust of my question was really "does it make a difference how full you pour an ingot mould." I guess the only real difference is if you're mixing alloys and depending on each ingot to be close to the same weight.

[Victor N TN]

Personally I use an OLD Lyman cast iron mold. But I worked with a machinist that used everything but the kitchen sink. He was always happy. (But I speculated he may be using {smoking} something to keep his happiness at the top peg... If you know what I mean.) He sure did make some good bullets though.

[Bazoo]

Well I didn't answer your question so I'll attempt it. I try to fill each cavity just to the top of the dividers. I don't know there is a correct way. Maybe one way will give a pound with pure and the other a pound with Linotype.

I would weigh if I was wanting specific alloy and repeatable results.

[Taterhead]

I was happily surprised to see Mr. Nelson, of Night Owl Enterprises (NOE) -- a forum Vendor Sponser manufactures and sells ingot moulds. Not really the least expensive option one might find, but -- I have purchased and use a few of these -- the QUALITY is ever so much better than others I have. Just an option... which I endorse. http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=95
BEST -- whichever/whatever you use.
geo249182

I'll second that sentiment. I obtained one of the NOE 4 pound ingot molds. It is really nice to use. The fact that they connect so nicely to NOE (or Lee) handles makes them extremely handy.

I have a couple of RCBS ingot molds too. Work great, but the NOE is a step above.

https://i.postimg.cc/qqpPpBFX/20191002-195337.jpg

Regarding the question in the OP, I pretty much try to fill them up. The RCBS, same, but not so much that the ingots fuse together.

[OS OK]

Check the comments in this post...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?388812-Newbie-super-excited-to-start-this-venture!

[redhawk0]

If they ever come in from his supplier...Lakehouse2012 is selling molds. It looks like they will come in about $15/each. He ordered more than what was signed up for...so you should be able to get in on the deal....send him a note.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?381550-INTEREST-THREAD-Redneck-Gold-ingot-molds-(round-2)-)

redhawk

[Burnt Fingers]

In the group buy section there's an ongoing group buy for some Redneck Gold Ingot molds.

[OTShooter]

Well I didn't answer your question so I'll attempt it. I try to fill each cavity just to the top of the dividers. I don't know there is a correct way. Maybe one way will give a pound with pure and the other a pound with Linotype.

I would weigh if I was wanting specific alloy and repeatable results.

You've addressed the specifics nicely. I had thought I was "over thinking" the thing, and it appears I was.

As I see it, I can either fill the mould all the way to "manage" my alloy, or I can fill to the dividers (maybe +/- a little) to have discrete bits of a particular alloy. And whichever method I use, I should probably actually weigh every chunk of metal I plan to include in some "special mix" alloy.

Thanks for the (patient!) guidance.

[OTShooter]

Check the comments in this post...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?388812-Newbie-super-excited-to-start-this-venture!

A lot of great info in that thread! I am thinking particularly about how I would put one of those big, triangular ingots in my little 20# furnace... So I'm pretty much going to keep my eyes on the smaller Lee/Lyman/RCBS moulds. For now, anyway.

[GregLaROCHE]

I like the long shape of standard ingots over muffin tin shapes, because you can stack them vertically in the pot more effectively, when starting to melt. With muffin shapes, you have a lot of air space around them and I think a lot of heat escapes in the beginning.

[kevin c]

I used to use Lyman and Lee ingot molds, but decided I wanted some a little bigger for casting, and much bigger for base alloy storage. I ended up with some of the Cast Boolits 2.5#x4 ingot molds from the recent group buy, and some small Wilton quadruple loaf pans that will throw a nearly ten pound ingot per cavity.

I cast each ingot cavity separately. Maybe the draft on the small Lyman and Lee molds is different; linking all four cavities by flooding the top of the mold works for those, but not the Cast Boolits mold, which have less draft. The latter fall out as individual ingots, but bind badly if linked.

[fredj338]

I just fill to top so four are made and easier to deal with for me whatever their weight are. One thing I started doing is using aluminum soda cans for a faster run. Cut top out with can opener and rinse well, MUST BE PERFECTLY DRY INSIDE BEFORE USE!!!!!! Fill right up to neck and about two to three hours later you can almost touch it, a pair of diagonal cutters and needle nose and roll off can. Makes usually 8 pounders and change and in use after first one melts ease second in and away you go in little bottom pour. Use cans with water on cold pot to double check volume so no Lava flows.

Seems like a lot of work when you can just turn the ingots out of most any mold??

[lightman]

Like the others said, there’s not really a right or wrong answer. I use several different Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, Ohas and Lee molds. Pouring up to the dividing line gets real close to 1# with wheel weight alloy.

Also like someone else mentioned, don’t get real hung up over mixing exact alloys. Lab grade alloys are nice but unnecessary in our hobby.

Just for the record, my Lee ingot mold drops the smoothest ingots.


A

[mtnbkr]

Go to a thrift store and look for something of cast iron or aluminum you can use for an ingot mold. I have one of the cast iron corncob pans and a few aluminum muffin pans. They were very cheap (less than the Lee mold).

This is what I do. I like the muffin pans better as the ingots stack easier.

Chris

[loadmak]

I use the little stainless steel condiment cups from Walmart. I think they were 4/$1. I ladle the lead from the smelting pot to the cups and they make nice little 1 lb "muffins". I mark them using metal letter stamps - CW, SW, ISO for clip-on wheel weights, stick-on, ISO core, etc. I made little boxes out of scrap wood to stack them. The larger boxes hold 64 (too heavy) but the small ones hold 33 (more manageable). I've put them in 5 gallon buckets before, but the buckets better be where you want them before you fill them up ;-)
250027

[RogerDat]

If they ever come in from his supplier...Lakehouse2012 is selling molds. It looks like they will come in about $15/each. He ordered more than what was signed up for...so you should be able to get in on the deal....send him a note.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?381550-INTEREST-THREAD-Redneck-Gold-ingot-molds-(round-2)-)

redhawkThose molds that Lakehouse designed and got a company to make are pretty nice indeed. I think he is working on a or now has a mold that embosses Redneck Gold on the ingot. Check the vendor section or completed group buy to find him for sending a PM. He also may have a group buy going but I think he decided it was simpler to just buy them and then do a vendor sales of them.

Always test a single muffin in a thrift store or garage/estate sale muffin tin. If they are tinned steel the lead will stick like it was soldered in place. Better to beat one "puck" out of a tin than a dozen of them so test with just one. Bread loaf pans are great for bulk storage slabs but they won't fit in a casting pot.

Price of those lakehouse designed molds is competitive with Lee but they hold 2.5 lbs in each ingot and there are 4 ingots per mold. Compared to 3 or 4 pounds of ingots per mold of Lee or RCBS to that group buy mold at 10 pounds at a time. That difference really speeds things up. Think 50 pounds of lead in Lee 17 fills, RCBS 12.5 fills or the ones from Lakehouse at 5 fills.

The ingots fit very snug in a small flat rate USPS box for shipping or into a casting pot, while long enough to lay across the pot to pre-warm so one doesn't drop an ingot into the casting pot cold or with moisture on it.

[kevin c]

I do like the new Cast Boolits molds a lot: easier to cast up, as RogerDat notes, a good shape and length for preheating on top of the pot, big enough to quickly refill the pot, but not so big as to be awkward to handle or to cool the melt too much.

I like them enough that I'm seriously trying to justify to myself remelting the 300 odd pounds of casting alloy I have in stock just to recast them in the new ingots.

[OS OK]

A lot of great info in that thread! I am thinking particularly about how I would put one of those big, triangular ingots in my little 20# furnace... So I'm pretty much going to keep my eyes on the smaller Lee/Lyman/RCBS moulds. For now, anyway.

This is the reason I changed to this big ingot...this is 18 pounds of ingots in my Lee 4-20, they melt down and feed themselves into the pot without my constant feeding of other smaller ingots. While this is going on the old hot plate oven is warming my mould.
When I'm up to temperature in the pot, the mould oven is ready also...when they are about 1/2 way melted, I'll put the PID temp. probe in the pot so that I won't overheat.

https://i.imgur.com/bXSaT38.jpg

[RogerDat]

I have also used the triangular ingots that os_ok shows. They work fine. Mine are typically around 1.5 lbs. but can go over 2 lbs. if I fill the mold. Homemade molds so length was designed to fit in USPS SFRB for shipping.

Those ingots work well, and stack fairly decent. But when placed in a larger stack on a shelf each layer has to be one or two ingots less than the layer below. End up with a tapered stack which wastes a little space. And with the dear wife having gotten this wacky idea about parking her car in the garage space is becoming something of an issue.

I find the smaller ingots I have end up loose in a crate or container. They just don't stack all that well. Little pucks or Lee ingots mostly. Lee will stack ok if you over fill the mold so all the ingots are joined but.... they don't fit in the pot that way. Have to break them up to go in the pot.

I won't re-melt and make new ingots out of my finished casting alloys. Those are all specific Pb/Sn/Sb alloys that are ready to cast.

I do intend to re-melt my ingots of raw ingredients. Many of the premium alloys are bread pan slabs, many of the plain soft lead are in pucks. These into consistent ingots is a goal. Have a few hundred pounds of unprocessed WW's and COWW small loaf pan blocks that I will be making into ingots using the Cast Boolit group buy ingot molds.

[OS OK]

I have also used the triangular ingots that os_ok shows. They work fine. Mine are typically around 1.5 lbs. but can go over 2 lbs. if I fill the mold. Homemade molds so length was designed to fit in USPS SFRB for shipping.

Those ingots work well, and stack fairly decent. But when placed in a larger stack on a shelf each layer has to be one or two ingots less than the layer below. End up with a tapered stack which wastes a little space. And with the dear wife having gotten this wacky idea about parking her car in the garage space is becoming something of an issue.

I find the smaller ingots I have end up loose in a crate or container. They just don't stack all that well. Little pucks or Lee ingots mostly. Lee will stack ok if you over fill the mold so all the ingots are joined but.... they don't fit in the pot that way. Have to break them up to go in the pot.

I won't re-melt and make new ingots out of my finished casting alloys. Those are all specific Pb/Sn/Sb alloys that are ready to cast.

I do intend to re-melt my ingots of raw ingredients. Many of the premium alloys are bread pan slabs, many of the plain soft lead are in pucks. These into consistent ingots is a goal. Have a few hundred pounds of unprocessed WW's and COWW small loaf pan blocks that I will be making into ingots using the Cast Boolit group buy ingot molds.

This is my solution for a stacking improvement...

https://i.imgur.com/5dYyNox.jpg

[John Boy]

Painted ends looks neat - How to you pull out a painted green ingot or 2 when needed?

[OS OK]

Painted ends looks neat - How to you pull out a painted green ingot or 2 when needed?

That dark green is dead soft lead, I have 120 pounds of that accessible from elsewhere. If I were to use that green soft in bars I would have stacked the wire crate a little differently...otherwise I'd have some pickin-N-pullin to do.

[JBinMN]

That dark green is dead soft lead, I have 120 pounds of that accessible from elsewhere. If I were to use that green soft in bars I would have stacked the wire crate a little differently...otherwise I'd have some pickin-N-pullin to do.


Charlie/OS OK,

I know you mention another source for the green soft ones other than in the box, but when it comes time... to make your "pickin-N-pullin" a bit easier, you could try the following...

Slide the crate away from the place it is sitting so that you could tip it on to the bottom. Put something into the crate loosely, that leaves a slight bit of room in the crate that will not crush from the lead leaning into it slightly in the open space of the crate. Then tip the crate over on to it's bottom. The ingots should open up as they lean into the "something" you put into the open space and remove the ingots you want to take out.

( Good time to take a break & enjoy a beer.)

Depending on the amount of ingots you remove, you may have to fill the void they leave, with something else to take up some of that space with the ingots still a bit loose in the crate. Then, if ya want, tip the crate back to the side it was on like in the picture and most of the ingots should self stack themselves. Then you can either remove the "Somethings" you used, or just leave it/them in the crate for the next time.

Might want to have your brother or a friend help you tip that crate "if" you do the above. Looks like about approx. 120 +/- pounds in that crate if those ingots are 1 pound each. Obviously more if the ingots are more than a pound.

Or you can set your *** down on a bucket or a stool, drink a beer while ya remove ingots from one side or the other till you reach the ones you want & re-stack afterwards. Which ever you would find easier.
;)

I reckon it would depend on how much of the bottom stuff you needed and how much you wanted to drink a beer while doing this, Haha.

I stack mine in piles of SOWW, COWW, and Pure lead, with smaller piles of lino/mono/foundry, and some assorted alloys leftovers I put back into ingots(rarely though, as I usually pour the alloy til it is gone.) and make up my alloys by removing from each pile when I need to. So , I don't have an issue with having to move the ingots unless I want to relocate them for some reason or to take a few to make what alloy I want. I don't think I have as much "stock" as you do though with only a half ton, so the space the ingots take up is relatively small in my garage. Everyones "miles may vary" according to their supply , of course.

Anyway, have fun.
;)

P.S. - if ya drink a beer during the second method, don't set it down in between picking & then accidentally tip it over. That could be a tragedy of the worst kind if you are running low on the stuff & may be considered alcohol abuse by some...
;)

[OS OK]

Thanks JB...it's always good to have someone with a 'complete brain' mull on something and get me straightened out beforehand...heheee...I guess I've left 'bit's-N-pieces' of my brain in some Rodeo arena somewhere over the years.

Actually, those ingots average 2.5 pounds and if I really tried to fill the mould, they would be closer to 3 pounds. This collection of shot is reflected by the empty shot bags on the tailgate.

https://i.imgur.com/2V0fqqX.jpg

The dark green ingots are all those fishing/trolling sinkers in the 5 gallon bucket and some of the same in the cardboard box on the left. This made a lot of lead so I gave a friend the remaining full shot bags and the copper coated shot in those copper looking cans...he's actually just learning to load for the scattergun.
Weight of the dark green ingots was 195 pounds and from the empty bag count on the tailgate the other colored ingots went 250 pounds...
SO...tipping that crate is doable with a couple of beers to stay hydrated with.

[JBinMN]

Well Charlie, You may want to have a few before ya even start, since they weigh that much. Definitely suggest you have help if ya do the tipping method. Make sure to have more beer than just for you... Haha
;)

[PBaholic]

I use lilmacmolds.com molds $10

250259

It'll make 1 lb ingots if you use each side, but I fill them over the top you'll make 2.5 lb ingots. These bigger ones are a nice size to work with, and stack well in a 2x4 joist space:

250260

I have 2 of the molds, and switch off between them when I'm pouring ingots. I use a pan with a wet towel in the bottom to cool them off after they have solidified.

[Bookworm]

I use lilmacmold.com molds $10

.

For anyone that searches for that company, its

http://lilmacmolds.com/

Molds, with an s

[fastdadio]

I use the Lyman ingot molds. After I smelt and flux, I pour my ingots to different levels so my ingots are different weights. I blend my alloy for casting using a digital postal scale in ounces. I find that having the different weights makes it easier to dial in the exact percentages that I want to mix without having to cut an ingot. Picky, I know, but I learned it from you guys.

[OS OK]

I use the Lyman ingot molds. After I smelt and flux, I pour my ingots to different levels so my ingots are different weights. I blend my alloy for casting using a digital postal scale in ounces. I find that having the different weights makes it easier to dial in the exact percentages that I want to mix without having to cut an ingot. Picky, I know, but I learned it from you guys.

I think that's a good idea and it works well.
Here I poured a large batch of 60/40 solder at various levels in the ingot moulds for just that same reason.
I weighed them individually in ounces, then multiplied that weight by 60% to determine the actual tin weight & then stamped them...makes it quick and easy to make up a casting pot or to blend up an ingot pot.

https://i.imgur.com/ffkEM4H.jpg

If I need even less than one of these little ingots, it's a simple deal to snap one in half or whatever size needed...

https://i.imgur.com/nEirYCN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/m7Yt8DC.jpg

You say..."Picky, I know, but I learned it from you guys." ... Same here!
Now, if only BNE was my neighbor!

[fastdadio]

I think that's a good idea and it works well.
Here I poured a large batch of 60/40 solder at various levels in the ingot moulds for just that same reason.
I weighed them individually in ounces, then multiplied that weight by 60% to determine the actual tin weight & then stamped them...makes it quick and easy to make up a casting pot or to blend up an ingot pot.

https://i.imgur.com/ffkEM4H.jpg

If I need even less than one of these little ingots, it's a simple deal to snap one in half or whatever size needed...

https://i.imgur.com/nEirYCN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/m7Yt8DC.jpg

You say..."Picky, I know, but I learned it from you guys." ... Same here!
Now, if only BNE was my neighbor!

I wish one of you folks was my neighbor. Sad, but in reality, I don't know anyone else in the real world that casts boolits, or enjoys just a casual day at the range doing what we all enjoy and share on this site.

[kevin c]

I'm impressed OS OK. It's a chore for me just to content stamp my ten pound lead ingots, I know I wouldn't have patience enough to weight stamp all my pewter coins (though I did sharpie a bunch of them).

I've taken the easy way out, made possible by the fact that I only cast one alloy, and that I prepare that in large lots. Now I take the coins of mixed weights and dump them on my scale, adding or subtracting until I get the weight I need. It takes a bit longer since the coins aren't marked, but not by much, and I'm pretty sure it's a lot less time than it'd take me to stamp them all.