Bull Plate Lube....Test Report

[David R]

I ordered the lube because I have to try everything. It came in good time in a bottle about the size of Lee Liquid Ear Wax. Priced right or better with instructions.

I fired up the pot today to see if it really works. Mold was 311410 DC purchased by me new and used maybe 3 times. Alloy was 8 lbs WW to 1/2 lb 50/50 solder.

I followed the instructions. Warm up the mold, Leave boolits IN the mold, use a Qtip to cover the top of the mold and back of the sprue plate, and lube sprue hinge along with alignment pins. I also did the spure holes. Clean off excess with a clean Qtip.....Now I have a small supply of Q tips on my loading bench.

At first the bases were not filling out at all. I figured the lube had contaminated the cavities. I poured a few to see if it would straighten out. It did in time for the most part, so I took a file and beveled the top of the blocks ever so lightly. I only used the weight of the file to do the cutting.

NOW we are talking. I cut the sprues after the lead was not still liquid, but not a solid yet. I used my "mallet" instead of a gloved hand because I cast with bare hands. It only took a small tap or push. Once the sprue plate was hot, the boolets were coming out in a hurry. Mr. Bullshop's claim of NO lead smeared on the blocks or sprue plate are true. I poured a few more then topped up the pot and smoked the mold. I did have some trouble with the spout of my RCBS pro melt plugging because I tried to run it too cool. I set it on 650 and tried again after a few minutes. Once every thing was going right, I poured for 5 minutes and ended up with 56 boolits. 3 I threw back for bases not filled out. The rest were keepers as far as my eyes could see. I weighed every one. almost all were within .3 grains. 6 were lighter and I tossed them back into the remelt pile. The rest I would consider match grade. The bases were smooth and flat. None seemed to have the sprues ripped out of the base of the boolit.

Bullshop's claims are true. I still had to put the mold on a wet towel to cool it off a little, but I ended up with a bunch of good boolits in no time.

David

SO, it works. For the price, I think eveyone should at least try it. tomorrow, I am going to try it on a LEE 6 banger and see how it works on that.

[waksupi]

David, you gave me a flash of inspiration. This may be a cure for leaky Lee bottom pours, or any other bottom pours. Empty the pot, and drop a few drops in the spiquet. I do believe I will be ordering some of this very soon, to try out.

[Buckshot]

............Interesting. Good report. So did the sprueplate seem to work easier?

.............Buckshot

[1Shirt]

I ordered some, and will give report as soon as I get it in. This is one that if all of the reports are as positive ought to really be the best thing since sliced white bread and dry toilet paper.
1Shirt! :coffee:

[David R]

............Interesting. Good report. So did the sprueplate seem to work easier?

.............Buckshot

I run my sprue plate so it just swings on its own weight. I could have opened it with my hands, but I refuse to wear gloves. You have to catch it at just the right time. After pure lilquid, but long before solid. I am going to try it with out the lube and see what happens. I am also going to try it with a LEE 6 banger, but time is precous right now and I already have 3 or 4 hundred pounds of boolits poured up.

David

[David R]

Alloy : 8 Lbs Wheelweights to 1/2 Lb 50/50 solder.
Mold: Custom LEE 6 cavity 311407 170 grain Lovern.
Pot: RCBS Pro Melt 800 watt, 20 Lb.

I fired up the pot and tried the Bull Plate Lube on my 311407 LEE custom. I did the same thing as with the Lyman DC. Luck was not with me today. Once the mold was warm, I applied with a Q tip just like last time. I wiped it off with a dry Qtip, both ends. Poured some boolits. Bases would not fill out. Once I got things a goin, I turned the pot down from 750 to 650. If I added any more lead to the 20 lb RCBS, the spout would freeze up. Agravating at least. After pouring for a few more minutes, I put every thing down and filled the pot to the brim. I decided to just empty it without adding any more lead (or headaches).

I think the lube migrated into the cavities. Boolits were not filling out, especially near the base. I gave up on the last cavity and made it a 5 cavity.

No matter how fast I went, the sprues were hardening before I got to cut them. I tried pouring front to back, back to front......

I still had to cool the bottom of the mold because the boolits were not filling out from too hot of a mold. This mold runs Hot anyhow.

I ended up with about 16 lbs of boolits in 50 minutes. That = about 658 boolits if you do the math. I took them inside the house, and started sorting. unfortinatly, more than half are going back in the pot.

I had no lead stuck to the top of the mold or bottom of the sprue plate.

SOOO, in MY opinion, the stuff is the balls for a steel double cavity, but not so great for a aluminum 6 banger. I will use it with my steel molds, but back to the BruceB method for the Custom LEE molds.

I think it will be great for my 22 cal steel molds because I can cast much faster. Wonder how it works with Linotype?

Standard disclaimer, this is only one little test from one person.

David

What do you call it when the mold is too hot and the bands shrink?

[Bullshop]

DavidR
A couple points, 1 - I think you need to calibrate the control on your pot. With a 650F setting it should not freeze up the spout.
2 - I dont understand as your saying the alloy was not getting hot enough as it was freezing at the spout and your boolits were not filling out but the mold was getting too hot, I dont get it. If your alloy is not hot enough and your cooling the mold I would expect poor fill out.
3 - If you didnt have well fill bases as per instruction it is possible for lube to get in the cavity when being applied. Very very little is needed. If there is enough to see other than just a wet appearance it is too much.

OK to calibrate your pot you need to pull the dial and in the center there should be a screw. Hold the dial shaft and turn the screw( sorry I dont remember which way to go up but you can figure it out). Anyway you will need a thermomiter to calibrate the dial.
Once you get the temp control right you shouldnt have any trouble with a 650F setting freezing up. Now let the mold get hot. You said it wasnt filling out due to being too hot, but listen buddy dont get mad at me for saying so but I dont think thats the problem. Just the oposite you have to run the mold at that temp until every part of the mold is the same temp. No hot spots this way, the whole thing is a hot spot.
I use a hot plate to pre heat my mold. The coil will be glowing red on the hot plate but it still takes 15 to 20 casts to get the whole mold hot. When I start I see the mold go through the stages starting with poorly filled boolits, then to splotchy looking with frosty spots, then to all frosty, then finaly to very shiney and wet looking. At this point it is making good boolits. If watched for a few seconds the shiney wet looking boolits take a galvinised look as you watch them.
The mold has to get hot to do this, let it. I think you are stopping the process by cooling the mold.
What I am trying to do is maintane as nearly a constant temp as I can, and keep the temp change from pour to drop at the very minimum. Les variation in temp should show up in weight consistancy.
I dont think Bull Plat caused your problems as it did and does as advertised. I think(no offence intended) you need to work on tecknique. Not to say you need to adopt mine but just one that works good for you.
If the BruceB method was working good use it, but with Bull Plate you dont have to cool the sprue. I like the smooth cut I get when they are soft.
Regardless of how anyone does thier casting they have to lube thier mold in some way. Bull Plate is an excellent lube for this. Nothing magicle just a good tool for the job!
BIC/BS

[StarMetal]

Bullshop

I bought my RCBS furnace inthe 80's. So I don't know if it's old age or what, but unless I cast fast the spout will freeze up at that low a setting. I alway keep my little propane torch handy to keep that spout warmed up especiall when first firing up the pot as it's the last thing to thaw out so to speak.

Joe

[Bullshop]

Joe
My pots are old too but they have been up graded. It does seem like they said something about a new spout. I sent mine back to stop leaks and they completely rebuilt, twice. They have upgraded most of the workings in the design. Might be worth sending in for the upgrades. I told them I got more than my moneys worth from them and I was happy to pay for repare, but no charge.
BIC/BS

[StarMetal]

Dan,

I've been thinking about sending my pot in for a rebuilt. I'd really miss it while it's gone though. I guess I'm going to have to do that.

Joe

[David R]

Bullshop,.

How many LEE 6 cavities have you used, or used bull plate lube on?

David

[Bullshop]

David R
I have about 15 Lee 6 cylender molds I use the same way. I find that they are easier to use than smaller molds because they do hold heat longer and so you dont have to work so fast.
When I give Jr. a casting lesson I let him use a Lee 6 because he has not yet developed a smooth rythem and they give a little more time but still fill out well. If I let him try a Lyman 2 his lack of a smooth fast rythem produces boolits that are poorly filled out and poor quality.
BIC/BS

[buck1]

I got a new job back in Aug. Since then I have been totaly taken up with work and am just now getting back in to the lead grove.
What is and where do I get this Bull plate lube? Bullshops product?? Thanks ...Buck

[David R]

Its bullshops product. ONLY available from him. Priced waay to cheap for how well it works on a Double cavity Lyman Mold.

Send him a PM.

[buck1]

Thanks David R !!! .....Buck

[fecmech]

I tried the Bull plate lube today and am impressed. I used my Lee 6 banger 9mm 121 truncated cone mold. I lubed the mold as instructed, wiped the lube almost all off with the Q tips and started casting. The mold was warmed up already by setting over the lead with aluminum foil over it. Alloy was 10 lbs. of WW+2% tin and I started with the furnace set at 800(rcbs 20lb.) First bullets were good and after a couple minutes I lowered the temp down to 700 on the dial as the sprus stayed liquid too long. As Bullshop says you can cut sprus while the lead is still molten and get no smears(you can!), I was cutting just after the spru flashed from the chrome molten look to the dull silver color. Spru material was about the consistantcy of putty when I cut and no effort was needed to open the spru plate. I went thru most of the 10lbs. in 25 minutes, approx 477 bullets made! I weighed a half dozen or so random bullets, 4 were at 121.5 grs and the other 2 were off a couple 10ths. I like everything about this method, it's quick and easy and cheap! Whats not too like! I'll have to try it on my iron molds sometime soon. Thanks Bullshop, great product, BTW how long does it usually last you before you recoat the mold and plate? Nick

[Bullshop]

Nick
Since it takes so little I treat at the begining of each session. After an hour or so if I feel any drag at all I just give a quick wipe before I drop the boolits and keep on going. I found a new mold needed to be treated 2 to 3 times in the first session but after the break in once at the begiging was good.
Thanks for the good press!
BIC/BS

[Bass Ackward]

Ta hell with the mold, can this stuff be used in bullet lube?

[Bullshop]

Ta hell with the mold, can this stuff be used in bullet lube?
BA you rascal you your always two steps ahead of me. I wasnt quite ready for this but your prying it out of me. Yes you can make BS Speed Green at home now. It is a very simple recipe, almost too simple.
Here ya go.
By weight 3 parts yellow bees wax (the raw unrefined wax is best because it containes the natural glue's) If it doesnt smell like honey its not right.
to 1 part Bull Plate
Thats it simple ha?
A couple cautions
Use a double boiler so you dont scorch the wax
Dont use paraffin, it lowers the flash point and causes more fouling.
If you want a less sticky/tacky lube add .5oz carnauba wax per 1 lb Speed Green. Pre melt the carnauba before adding .
If you will be casting sticks I have found the basic 3/1 formula does not release easily from my molds. The cure for this is to add .5 oz allox per 1 lb lube. I use the origonal allox from the allox corp. in Niagra Falls NY but they no longer exist. I still have a good supply. I have tried the Lee liquid version just to see and it also worked. If you are just melting and pouring into your sizer you wont need to bother with the allox.
Thats it, peace of cake!
For any that bought more than one 2 oz bottle and now realise you didnt need that much to lube your molds one bottle will make you 1/2 lb of Speed Green boolit lube. Life couldnt be more simple!
BIC/BS

[JDL]

Bullshop,
What kind of velocity do you run this lube to? Thanks -JDL

[Bullshop]

Bullshop,
What kind of velocity do you run this lube to? Thanks -JDL
JDL
I have run it past the limit of the alloy, up to 3000 fps and maintaned a clean shiney spotless bore.
BIC/BS

[yodar]

David R

I see you using Lyman 311410 which I have poor luck with

can you supply some load data? I cant even find paper using it w/ SKS

I hafta use Lee .311 2R 155 gr slug which is reel nice cept it's a single cavity mould. My .311410 is two cavity and it's a NICE looking bullet

Yodar

[mroliver77]

Yodar, with the Bruce B method I have cast like 350 boolits an hour with a single cavity mold. That is quite a bit of shootin. It looks sad compared to using a six banger but is still a nice sized pile of boolits. Jay

[klausg]

I've got to add my plug in for Bullshop's Sprue Plate lube; while I am still very much a novice at this game, the instructions were simple enough that even I could figure them out. The product completely cured my problems w/my 358477, so much so that it is now part of my portable casting box, (a necessity when your casting bench is your tailgate). To date I've only used it on two moulds, the above and a S/C 3118, but it works great for me. Probably the best thing I've bought in quite awhile, thanks for putting out a good product.

-Klaus

[Bullshop]

I've got to add my plug in for Bullshop's Sprue Plate lube; while I am still very much a novice at this game, the instructions were simple enough that even I could figure them out. The product completely cured my problems w/my 358477, so much so that it is now part of my portable casting box, (a necessity when your casting bench is your tailgate). To date I've only used it on two moulds, the above and a S/C 3118, but it works great for me. Probably the best thing I've bought in quite awhile, thanks for putting out a good product.

-Klaus
kLAUS
You are very welcome, and thank you for the favorable report. Havnt had anyone try it complain about it, just a few stubborn oldies that believe its an answer to a non problem so will never try it. There are many ways to lube a mold this one makes it easy and works well. I like the way it works on the little Lee molds. It makes the alignment surfaces just slip together easily.
I use it in 100% of my casting on all my molds and I cast about 5 days a week now that should tell ya something.
BIC/BS

[waksupi]

I got two bottles of it. Gave one to a friend, since it worked so well. I am happy with it. Does as advertised, and I can't ask for more!

This has been an unsolicited plug. Use it as you will

[OLPDon]

Bic/BS

I am going to place my order for a few bottles.

Don

[Old Jim]

Used it on Lee molds that tend to get "sticky" after a while. Ran smooth as silk thru 1500 round balls.

[slug]

It works too well.

Once at the start of a casting session, I cut the sprue and opened the mould while the bullets were still liquid. I had lead smeared all over the faces of the Lee six cavity mould. The bits were easy to pick off but I had to wait for the mould to cool first.

No smears on the sprue plate, though.

It is very good stuff.

[Murphy]

I just yesterday evening fired up my lead pot, got out my Lyman #429421 four banger mold and went to work.

After 20 years of boolit casting, I've delt with all the lead smear & sprue plate cutter problems I care to remember.

I followed the instructions precisely.

My sprue plate has NEVER swung so freely out of the way, nor did I find a speck of lead on either the mold top or bottom of the sprue plate.

I'M SOLD ON IT!!! (Glad I ordered 2 bottles when I ordered this wonderful stuff).

Murphy

[Bullshop]

Thanks Murphy!
Kick backs forthcoming.
BIC/BS

[Mad Mucus]

G'day Bullshop,

As a beginner gathering all the gear required to start casting, I'm liking the reports on your Bull Plate Lube. Received my first mold in the mail today... Lee 6-cavity PRS45-250 BigLube for BP.

Would like to try some if possible.

Thanks,

Mucus

[Bullshop]

BS Mom left for fairbanks today to be available when her time comes. She is dew about the 1'st. Orders will not be running quite as efficiantly as normal until she gets back and feels up to it. Anybody can order anything they want but if your in a hurry you will be disapointed.
BIC/BS

[Four Fingers of Death]

Family first Dan, we all understand heer, good luck with it. I'm about to set up my casting gear again (can't get in the garage hardly at the moment, I'll have to send you an order. Mick.

[mike in co]

another resounding YES!
I BOUGHT BACK WHEN IT FIRST CAME OUT BUT DID NOT USE TILL RECENTLY.

A LEE 22 CAL BATOR , A LBT 432 280 AND A THE GB LEE 8MM 175 SIX BANGER.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS...AND IT WORKS, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!

THIS IS FAST, FAST FAST!

NO SLOWING DOWN TO COOL OR WAITING FOR THE SPRUE TO HARDEN...

CAST, CUT, DROP AND REFILL

[leftiye]

Has anybody tried using a mold heater to keep the mold at a temp where the casting is optimized? I use mostly single cavity molds, but it should work with any mold/ heater combination that fit each other.
I made mine out of one of those cheap little Lee electric pots that they used to make. I took the pot apart and made the heating element into a flat coil to set the mold on. It's still attached to the temp control so you can turn the heat up and down. My casting technique includes setting the mold on the heater while I inspect the previous bullet prior to opening the mold. I then immediately pour the next bullet, and reprat the process. It does allow one to cast at as low a temp as does not freeze up the spout on a bottom pour.

[NVcurmudgeon]

Tried Bull Plate Lube for the first time with my favorite Lyman 314299 DC. I try to run my moulds 700-750 F, and am impatient, so smearing is a way of life to me. I followed the clear instructions exactly and it worked very well. Dan isn't kidding when he says a LITTLE dab will do you. I lowered the Q-tip until the cotton barely touched the surface, leaving maybe 1/4 of the cotton damp. That was plenty, and there was some excess to wipe off. The sprue plate never before slid so smoothly as it does now. After about 100 casts there was a little smear on the top of the blocks and bottom of the sprue plate. I renewed the BPL and within two casts the smear was gone! After about 160 casts, Mrs. curmudgeon came out to talk. After she went back in the house, I started up again, but a mould handle broke. I recognize two omens when I see them, so I quit for the day. Can't wait to give BPL another try, it feels like I am casting faster and with less effort. A preliminary check of the pile of boolits looks very good. BPL does everything claimed, plus. Not only prevents smears, but cleans them up!

[Crash_Corrigan]

I had the misforturne of getting a Lee 6 Banger made on Friday afternoon. It worked fine for the first 600 boolits. Then I started to get binding on the front alightment pin and flashing on the boolits. I stopped to let it cool off and check it out. I was casting at 750 deg on my Lee 4-20 with my RCBS thermometer in the pot to keep an eye on things every so often. When the mold cooled enuf to examine I found that the silly thing had a gap between holes 5 and 6 of .005 measured with a feeler gauge. 4 and 5 were .004 and so on. The silly thing had warped and the pin did not easily release the mold or allow it to close properly. I called Midway and they said send it back. They sent me a new one and I smoked it good. Cast a few until the mold was good and hot. Left in a load and applied BPL to the top of the mold and the sprue plate. I lubed the pins and bolts and went to town. I would cast from front to back from the bottom pour pot and waited only until the color of the sprue started to change. The boolits were soft and there was not any tearing of the bottom of the boolits when I operated the sprue plate. I got no lead smearing on the tops of the mold nor the sprue plate. The boolts dropped from the mold like crazy and I only had to shake the mold a little if one or two hung up. I did not have to use the mallet or anything else to get them to drop. It was a pleasure to use this product and it is part of my casting box now. I ended up getting 24 to 30 keepers every minute until my back got too sore to continue. My take was about 2 gallons of .452 Lee LSWC's with only a few culls.
This Dan thanks the Alaskan Dan for a fine product at a reasonable price.

[smokemjoe]

A fellow on here gave me a little bottle of this stuff for a sample, I ran 2 Lee six c avity - 45 cal. molds for 2 weeks and made 10,380 bullets. I put the molds on a hot plate to get hot, Almost evertime when I started I put the plate lub. on and think sometimes it was to much already, I never had no trouble with lead flashing.Wished we had it 40 years ago. Now I need the address again, I lost it. Thanks- Smokemjoe

[MT Gianni]

A fellow on here gave me a little bottle of this stuff for a sample, I ran 2 Lee six c avity - 45 cal. molds for 2 weeks and made 10,380 bullets. I put the molds on a hot plate to get hot, Almost evertime when I started I put the plate lub. on and think sometimes it was to much already, I never had no trouble with lead flashing.Wished we had it 40 years ago. Now I need the address again, I lost it. Thanks- Smokemjoe

Click on Bullshop at the bottom of this page. Gianni

[pjh421]

My Bull Plate lube came in the mail a couple of weeks ago. This stuff will ruin your life. I put it on my H&G 68 four banger and my H&G 50 ten banger on different days. I "just wanted to see how it would work". Well, I stayed up until 5 a.m. casting boolits on either day. I couldn't stop. These moulds NEVER worked this well before. I couldn't believe what I was seeing. Don't order any unless you are retired or willing to lose your job.

I got some Speed Green lube too. I suppose that some day I'll have to size and lube all those castings. I'll probably go broke buying powder and primers.

Paul

[Bullshop]

It is a joy to hear of such satisfaction in our product. Enjoy!
BIC/BS

[Charlie Horse]

I tried it last night for the first time on my Lee 6 cavity 148g wc mold. I have never had a casting session go so quickly and trouble free.

I wonder if they give a Nobel prize for bullet casting research?:drinks:

[lmcollins]

I've had my Bull Plate lube for sometime, and used it the first time yesterday on my new 358156 Lyman 4 banger. This is great stuff! Glad I ordered two bottles. I used it per instructions, and loved the way the sprues came off and the bullets fell from the mold. I have now run two fills of my Lee 20 pound bottom pour and have never been happier!

How did Dan come up with this stuff? He is stuck up there in the boonies were everything is hard to come by, and came up with this magic elixer. It must have the filtered urine of a 3 year old cow moose in heat in it or something like that - or somene down here would have come up with it before he did.

If his Speed Green lube works just as well we all as his mold plate lube we should use nothing else.