Beautiful mold, terrible boolits

[curioushooter]

So I broke out the MiHec 359 Hammer hollow point mold I recently received from the group buy. Gorgeous mold. Should be mounted and displayed. It is the first brass mold I have ever used.

Like all my molds I blast it with brake cleaner when new. It came with a little bottle of what I believe is 2-stroke oil, so I applied it as directed to the sprue plate, alignment pins, and the little cramer rods. Very, very small amounts.

I fired up a pot of my preferred alloy 91-6-3 (lead-tin-antimony+pinch of magnum shot for the arsenic), fluxed it (tallow and sawdust), and poured two. Mold is still cold so I was expecting them to be wrinkly and they were. I poured about 15 more and the mold was quite hot by this point, and so was the alloy. Still terrible wrinkly bullets with round edges. I figured the alloy must be messed up so I broke out two molds--an iron RCBS 358-158-SWCGC and an Aluminum Lee 358-125-RNFP six-cavity (which was new, and I sprayed with brake cleaner and lubed with the same 2-stroke oil). After the second or third throw I was getting nice boolits from the RCBS, lightly frosting (to me indicates that its nearly too hot). I cast a 60 or so. Then I refilled the pot with the same alloy and started with the Lee and cast about 200. I had to turn the pot temp down a bit because the Lee mold was getting too hot.

So my conclusion is that Brass is some vodoo or there is something on this mold that brakekleen can't remove or there's some mold prep step needed for brass that I am omitting.

What do you think?

[jcren]

Brass likes patina. Heat cycle to build up a nice oxide finish. Also, brass pulles heat fast until it is close to melt temp.
Also, use a graphite pencil on the hp pins, not oil.

[David2011]

The only brass mold I have used was for .36 caliber balls and I cast with straight lead. It was trouble free, probably because it was pure lead so I'm no help with that part but I have used sprue lube a lot.

The sprue plate oil I use came with instructions something like this; no doubt I'm embellishing:

1. Shake the oil, remove the lid and touch a cotton swab to the inside of the lid getting only a very tiny amount of oil on it. Trust me, that's all it takes to lube a hot mold.
2. Cast some boolits to get the mold up to temp.
3. Once the mold is hot, cut the sprue but leave the boolits in place.
4. Rub a tiny amount of oil on top of the mold, the inside of the sprue plate and on the sprue plate hinge screw.

That will keep the oil out of the cavities and should let you open the mold with a gloved hand.

[Gamsek]

Just got the same Hammer and with long and cup pins I haven’t had any problems on 1st casting, but I did this; cleaned it with brake cleaner then washed it with hot water/dawn, then 3x preheating it on a hot plate, letting it cool. Done that with many brass moulds.

Before casting I let it sit on a hot plate (medium setting or just slightly above) for 2o minutes, set my PID on furnace to 750F/400C. When I pour lead it should take at least 2-3 seconds for sprue to freeze, cut, tap tap to help open it, flip upside and two taps on handles hinge bolt and they fell out.

I haven’t applied any oil before casting. Only after few casts I wipe top of mould with bullets still in, bottom of sprue plate with cotton cloth (2”x4” folded twice) which got only 2drops of oil months ago. Remember less oil is more.

if you preheated your mould and with 750F alloy you are still getting wrinkles after few pours, it could be to much oil. Wash it, start again.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/d8e7064b3644413e5553b8a72834e606.jpg
Also mine are not all perfect after first casting, but with brass HP moulds everything starts to really work on 3rd casting. Some say machining oils are imbedded into material so it takes few casting or good cleaning for oils to be removed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/f5c1535de5ffc1e4e51a84009553a579.jpg
Powdercoated with clear

[Wheelguns 1961]

When I preheat my brass molds, it takes twice as much heat to preheat them as an aluminum mold. I think you just need to get used to it. There is an excellent tutorial at mp-molds.com. Looks like Gamsek beat me to it.

[trapper9260]

Did you smoke the mold ? I cast with brass and no problems. beside AL and steel . preheat helps also. When cast from brass you will need to do it with different temps then the AL mold ,the mold will tell you what will work for it. I use 2 cycle oil my self for lube the parts that needs it on the mold and no problems. This is what I found that works for me.

[RED BEAR]

Did i understand you correctly you lubed a cold mold? I don't have this mold but i do have 2 mp molds and they are without a doubt the best molds i own. I believe you are right i think that its 2 cycle oil that comes with them. Being two cycle oil it doesn't burn off quickly. I would clean it with dishwashing liquid and tooth brush. I am not a big fan of break cleaner but thats just me or maybe the brand i bought. I have to agree with using a pencil on the pins i know it says to oil them but give the pencil a try. A also use a cheep hot plate to heat all my molds and usually get good bullets from the start. All the above post have given good advice. Let us know if you get it figured out.

[Harter66]

I lived in the desert where rust isn't even a thing and it took at least 5 heat cycles and 8 casting sessions to get good bullets out of a 462-420 HB mould ......... I was somewhat frustrated after all of the brass mould braggary to have such a hard time getting a decent bullet out of it ........
Be patient with the patina it will eventually show up then you can master the tight rope between too cool pins and over heated shanks with a the sprue too hot or cold ......

[stubert]

My NOE brass mold won't throw good bullets until it is 430 degrees. The mold is a 350 grain, .460 diameter.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

A new MP brass mold...
I would Heat cycle the mold 3 times.
Then I would wash it with hot water and dish soap and a toothbrush (nothing else).
Then cast with it, don't apply the sprue plate lube to a cold sprue plate, use a Q-tip with one drip on it, and apply to a HOT mold, you should see smoking from the solvents in the oil burning off.
It may take more than a few casting sessions to built up a good patina to get good boolits.
Good luck.

[curioushooter]

Did i understand you correctly you lubed a cold mold?

Do you lube a hot mold?

I only lubed it at all because it literally CAME with the mold. I have used pencil graphite in the past and I will do that from now on.

I must say though that my bullets looked about the same as what is pictured above (except I started with the flat pin). I don't consider such bullets keepers.

I will clean it again and heat cycle it an try again.

Thanks for the advice.

[RedHawk357Mag]

Heat cycling is an excellent course of action. Normally I am very patient in getting the dull brass color going. I couldn't take it anymore and after three cycles. Lead boogers! Oh well, I got some great bullets to mess around with. Thinking this one is going to be pretty cool. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190729/f8417c671c2cb6b760aa83313ec45d88.jpg

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[Gamsek]

Do you lube a hot mold?

I only lubed it at all because it literally CAME with the mold. I have used pencil graphite in the past and I will do that from now on.

I must say though that my bullets looked about the same as what is pictured above (except I started with the flat pin). I don't consider such bullets keepers.

I will clean it again and heat cycle it an try again.

Thanks for the advice.

I said mine were not perfect-yet, I was “breaking in” three new brass moulds at the same time, first casting...and you said you got “terribly wrinkled bullets” ...Post some of your keepers, I will try to cast a bit later and see how it goes

[Gamsek]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190729/c689c2ab9b21eb268120c520144fdfc4.jpg
Second casting, getting better....

[Boolseye]

When I preheat my brass molds, it takes twice as much heat to preheat them as an aluminum mold. I think you just need to get used to it. There is an excellent tutorial at mp-molds.com. Looks like Gamsek beat me to it.

This ^^


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[flint45]

All my brass molds don't cast well until I get them very hot. I also second the patina when new Iran them about three heat cycles tell they had a good dull patina then all was good.

[Hogtamer]

Toothbrush, hot water and dawn dishwashing detergent. Get it HOT! I got perfect lyman 525 gr slugs the first time, just needs to be really hot.

[Streetwalker]

I have a Egan single cavity mold for my 8mm 98k that is made of brass. It is, by far, the most beautiful and well made mold that I own or have ever owned. I bought it at the Big Reno Gun Show for 25 dollars some ten years ago or so. I quickly found out why the previous owner was so anxious to get rid of it....that mold was the most frustrating monster that I have worked with and I have had some real lulu's!! After a lot of diligent research and questioning every experienced bullet caster I knew, I finally was finally able to get that mold to work. The mold itself is massive for a single cavity and the hotter that I run it, the better the fill out. I have seen that same thing with NOE multi cavity aluminum molds as well. Having a good patina really helps as well and that comes from a number of heat cycles being repeated. After all that frustration, I now have a mold that I can use without having to pull my hair out.....and I'm bald enough as it is!!

[44Blam]

A new MP brass mold...
I would Heat cycle the mold 3 times.
Then I would wash it with hot water and dish soap and a toothbrush (nothing else).
Then cast with it, don't apply the sprue plate lube to a cold sprue plate, use a Q-tip with one drip on it, and apply to a HOT mold, you should see smoking from the solvents in the oil burning off.
It may take more than a few casting sessions to built up a good patina to get good boolits.
Good luck.

This is what I do and as soon as the mold is hot, it starts dropping good boolits. I like brass best because it gets hot and stays hot. You have to slow down at times to not overheat, but they work well.

[bangerjim]

I cast pretty much everything now in brass molds. You MUST heat-treat/cure them right off the bat. They need to have a rich golden look to them, not bright & brassy like out of the box. I cycle them at least 4 times up and down at first B4 ever trying to cast the 1st time with a new mold. Once they are cured, they work great every time. And brass likes to be HOT HOT. Just takes some re-training to get you goin'! And you WILL get there. Nice thing, lead.....................it REMELTS!

banger

[curioushooter]

That second round is looking good. And what a great design!

I read all these cautions to not overheat brass. Now you are telling me to get it really hot?

For the record I've never had such nonsense with Fe or Al.

[bangerjim]

You cannot "overheat" brass. I pre-heat all my molds on a lab electronic hotplate to casting temp and they produce perfect drops the 1st time. Don't waste time heating on the rim of your casting pot....will never get hot enough. Get a good flat-top hot plate of at least 1000 watts. I even pre-heat all my ingots on it to shorten recover time when adding fresh alloy.

Brass can run hotter and it does stay hot longer. You do not have to treat them with kid gloves like Al molds that are subject to dings and dents by just looking at them cross-eyed. And I have never liked Fe molds due to the rust problems. And the small number of cavities available. I like to cast 5 or 6 slugs at a time so they pile up high after just a one hour casting session.

Take your time learning how to use brass.....you will be very happy once you figure out the eccentricities of your specific mold.

banger

[Mal Paso]

I read all these cautions to not overheat brass. Now you are telling me to get it really hot?

There were some molds made from inferior brass years ago and it's grown to be gospel. It was a rolled product not stress relieved and dead ended at least one US mold maker. The threads are probably around.

Brass Molds are Not Prone to Warping and Condors get their Lead from Old Paint not eating bullets.

[fredj338]

Agree. All molds need some seasoning to cast good bullet. IMO, brass just takes longer. I have one Mihec, but honestly, don't use it much too heavy.

[bluejay75]

Plus 1 on the hot plate. I turn mine a notch or two below the hottest setting for the entire time lead is melting. Most times I’m in good boolits with all my brass molds in just a few pours. The patina will appear after the first casting session and then I’m in good boolits just that much sooner.

[nagantguy]

Did anyone mention to get it really hot???? Seriously your post reads just like mine on my first MP group buy mold; then the answers came in, no line on the hp pins and hot; until it’s not shiny brass but more subdued and keep it hot and it will work as beautiful as it looks!

[oldhenry]

I read all entries with heightened interest because I was in on the same GB getting a 8 cav. alum. + my 1st. brass mold (2 cav.). I cast outside & we are having mid 90's temps here. I did try the AL 8cav. one rare cool morning & it produce keepers fairly soon.

I sprayed the brass one with brake cleaner & then scrubbed it with Dawn in hot water twice. I put it through 4 heat cycles, but I was under the impression that too much heat was a no no, so I used my lead thermometer & tried to not heat over 400f on my micky mouse hot plate (sometimes it would go up to 500f for a short period of time). I then lubed lightly, but did so while cold. Since reading the accumulated info from this thread, I'll re-scrub with Dawn (2 times) & lube lightly when hot (and will not be so conservative with the temp). Thanks to everyone.

Henry

[John Boy]

Write this down and remember it ... Every Mold Is Different
Whether the metal type, the number of cavities - bullet weight and dimensions
So, what's the key to excellent bullets from any mold? Write this down too ...
* Heat the clean mold and fluxed melt up to the same temperature so with a 5 second ladle pour, the sprue puddle frosts in 5-8 seconds. With 500gr plus bullets, you may have to do a 10 second pour (per casting with heavy Paul Jones molds). Cut the puddle and look to determine if the bullet base is perfectly flat and cavity is filled out. If not, increase the pour time still with a 5-8 second frost time of the puddle.
That's all there is to casting and I have no issues with except a couple of trouble ones with over 200 molds in my inventory: Ideal - Lyman - Lee - Jones - NEI - NOE - Accurate - MOS -RCBS - Saeco - Hoch - RCBS - Buffalo Arms - Old West - Pioneer Products and Ohaus ... all of different type metals and number of cavities from 40gr 22LR up to 565gr 45-70's & 90's

[Gatch]

Run it HOT mate. I have a 6cav mp brass mold, 9mm 145gr. It produces best boolits when the lead is almost smearing when you cut the sprue. I preheat it on the pot while it warms, then fill 2 cavities at a time till the sprues cut easy. Doesn't take long and it's raining beautiful boolits. 1000 in a session, no worries

[Larry Gibson]

Most new moulds of any material and any old mould that has any kind of preservative on it or any brass/aluminum new mould with have cutting oil residue still on them. With every mould I use whether new or used, made of steel, iron, brass or aluminum I use a simple technique that has never failed to produce excellent bullets almost immediately (given a reasonable binary or ternary alloy).

First, I clean the mould thoroughly with brake cleaner squirting some on then scrubbing with an old toothbrush. I then thoroughly rinse the mould off with the brake cleaner.

Let it dry a few minutes then, second, dance the flame of a propane torch over the surface of the mould blocks inside and out and in the cavities. Looking carefully just ahead of the flame you will see "moisture" come to the surface and the evaporate. Evaporate the "moisture" of the mould blocks and inside the cavities. No need to over heat as once the "moisture" is evaporated its good.

Thirdly, let the blocks cool and swab out the cavities with a dry, new Q-Tip to remove any slight residue that may be there.

I then put mould prep on the top of the blocks and the sprue plate being carful not to get any in the cavities. The mould is reassembled (if it was taken apart for this cleaning) and adjusted.

The important thing is to get all that "moisture" (whatever it is) off the blocks and, in particular, out of the cavities. I have used several other recommended methods and all leave some "moisture as evidenced by use of the propane torch. If a good alloy is used and the mould/alloy temp is reasonable then it is the "moisture" that is causing the wrinkles.

I do not use a hot plate as I've never cast in cold conditions where a proper cast tempo wouldn't maintain a proper mould temp. My alloy temp is most often kept between 710 and 725 degrees (using a thermometer in the pot). The mould is preheated by setting it on the lip of the Mag-20 while the alloy is coming to temp.

Using the above method to clean the moulds I have always gotten excellent castings within one or two pours.

[longbow]

I pre-heat all moulds and brass moulds in particular like to be HOT! In my experience anyway.

I find that the best indicator it is time to start casting is when the sprue plate lube just begins to smoke. That is actually a bit too hot and the sprue puddle takes a few seconds to harden. Once casting, things settle down then I keep going at a steady fast rhythm... don't stop to check boolits! You should be able to see if they are keepers or not while casting. If not then pre-heat some more. If you just have to check or really aren't sure then put the mould back on pre-heat while you check boolits.

You can over heat brass moulds and cause warping so don't leave it pre-heating too long or on open flame. I use a piece of 3/16" steel plate on a propane stove so the steel plate takes the heat evenly and the mould sits on that... no direct flame on the mould.

I have generally found that if I pre-heat HOT the moulds work from the start. However, heat cycling is commonly done as stated above and it also helps form a patina which will help keep tin rich alloy from sticking (tinning like solder). There are threads on how to form a patina quickly on brass moulds so if you want to do it you don't have to cast and heat cycle lots to get it.

There have been comments that the "tinning" is actually tin oxides, not really "soldering" effect. I can't answer that but the solution seems to be the same in that if you are running tin in your alloy you probably want a patina on the mould.

Also, use sprue plate lube very sparingly and don't get it in the cavities. It doesn't take much and wrinkles will be the flavour of the day until you get that sprue plate lube out.

Longbow

[curioushooter]

247207

I did some casting yesterday. Brass IS a PITA. Yea, it will cast well after you scrub it was detergent, heat cycle it a half dozen times on an electric range top, then get the alloy super hot, throw about 100 duds...yea, you'll get keepers then. Even then that brass sticks bad to the bullet...worse than any mold I have ever had seasoned or brand new.

Just for comparison I got out two iron molds and an aluminum mold. Threw keepers with both iron molds after two or three throws. Threw that little Lee bullet on the first toss--which produced six.

It is interesting to note how different they look. The lee bullet has the look of frosting--too hot of alloy.

AFAIC brass it a totally inferior material for molds. If I get another hollopoint mold it will be a conversion of an iron mold. Brass isn't better than iron at anything; it does appear more durable than aluminum, at least the aluminum that Lee uses. I get scratches on the side of an aluminum mold after one session from rubbing against the pot support. This brass mold didn't get scratches, only slight abrasions. Iron doesn't suffer this issue at all. Iron doesn't rust if you take the time to wrap it in a two cent piece of VCI paper (https://www.amazon.com/Armor-Protective-Packaging-A30G0606-Non-Ferrous/dp/B00KF57W1K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=armour+wrap+vci+paper&qid=1566660194&s=gateway&sr=8-1) when you're done-that complaint can be disposed of.

I am very complimentary of the design and workmanship of Miha's mold.

[RP]

I have several brass molds and I love them maybe your trying to hard ? The molds do need to be hotter the alloy for me not so much I run mine the same temp for every mold. Think of it this way when your casting and your alum mold gets to hot you take a break that is the area the brass mold likes to run. I cast at a fairly fast pace and have perfect results my sons do not cast as fast and the mold will cool off on them while casting and it has to go back on the hot plate. They will stop to look at a bullet or ask a ? that is all the time it takes sometimes to cool off. When I start I run until the pot is empty like a machine set the mold on a hot plate reload the pot and take a break then repeat. Hope sharing how I do it helps.

[David2011]

I've only had the opportunity to use one brass mold but it just made me want more. I didn't find anything difficult about it and it easily cast beautiful boolits.

[curioushooter]

I didn't find anything difficult about it and it easily cast beautiful boolits.

Compared to what? It's not that brass is "bad." It's just a whole lot more trouble than iron or aluminum.

There is something to be said for turning on the pot, putting handles on your mold, then coming back, throwing a few duds and the rest are keepers. That is how I cast with iron and have always cast. If the mold was new I cleaned it by blasting it with some brake cleaner. After that nothing. Brass is just a whole lot more trouble and you have to run it so hot the pot seems on the verge of a meltdown. You dither with the mold for a few seconds (because it's stickier than iron or aluminum) and now it runs too cold.

I will grant it makes good bullets if you go through all the trouble. But why? So the machinist can get more cuts from his cherry. That's the only advantage that brass offers. It offers no advantage I can see to the end user.

[Wheelguns 1961]

I cast some bullets with a brass mold today, and was into good bullets on the second pour. Brass is no more difficult than aluminum or iron. Only the second time I used this mold.

[fcvan]

I can relate to troubles with new molds. Larry Gibson has good tips as do many others. Hot soapy water is your friend, 2 cycle oil is your friend . . . just not too much. I had a mold that really needed to be baked in so I cast and dropped repeatedly until almost the point of smearing with the sprue plate. A tip from a booliteer here suggested a quick cool of the sprue plate, to prevent the smearing, by having a damp towel to quickly press the sprue plate onto. Anyway, for that one mold that really needed 'heat seasoning' the towel trick helped.

I loaned a mold to a buddy, he tried to lube the mold, got it in the cavity. Lets just say it was a pain to get that out, it was pretty baked in. Decades ago, I would 'smoke' the mold with a match as I had read. It worked ok but I haven't done that in a while.

Lube tip with 2 cycle oil - next time you have Chinese get some wooden chopsticks. I dip the tip into the 2 cycle oil and aply to the pins and mating surfaces. When I say dip, I mean into it and the wipe the chopstick. There is more than enough on the wood to lightly coat the hot pins and mating surfaces and won't get in the cavity. You can also scrape the hot sprue plate with one end (I use the narrow for oil, wide for scraping) if lead begins to stick to the underside of the plate. After removing the lead I wipe the oily side lightly which helps prevent further smearing. YMMV

[Drew P]

I clean the Poops out of my mp molds, soap, water, alcohol, brake cleaner, I’ve tried them all. It usually seems to take a few sessions to make them sing. There must be something in there that just won’t come out otherwise.

[curioushooter]

Another thing that I worry about in regards to brass.

Have any of your guys done plumbing? You SOLDER copper and brass with a LEAD-TIN ALLOY. If you run that mold too hot and that alloy is too rich in tin and too hot...guess what...you've just soldered your mold together.

Even if you don't solder the mold together you can easily leave some reside in the details of the cavity. I think this may be why this mold of mine is sticky because when I backed off on the temp a bit it got less sticky.

That two stroke oil it came with I applied very sparingly with a toothpick to the steel pins and whatnot. Not a drop of it was applied to the mold. That mold is so well made it hardly needs lubrication anyway. Almost a vanishingly small amount.

I am going to try Larry's propane torch treatment and see if that helps. Add this to another obscure ritual of the brotherhood of the brass mold casters.

[alamogunr]

I see a few posts that indicate cleaning a new mold with brake cleaner first and then scrubbing with dawn and hot(boiling) water. I've always done just the opposite. Even so, I've had few problems with either brass or aluminum molds. I also heat cycle the mold in a toaster oven, heating to about 300º or so several times. I use a hot plate with a 3/8" tk aluminum plate on the element to bring the mold up to temp. Once I start casting, it is usually only about 3-4 throws before the boolits start looking great.

I've got 4 molds that I've bought in the last several months, that I've not cast with. They are both brass and aluminum, 2, 4 or 8 cavity. I've cleaned with dawn and brake cleaner(except for one. I ran out of brake cleaner). Sometime over the next few months, I hope to test my method and keep a record. My memory of previous experiences may be optimistic.

[Follow Me]

First off, I do not have a brass mold and based on your experience with this subject mold I do not want one. I am an old guy and I do not handle frustration with the grace and calm as I did when I was younger.
I fully realize that 99.989% of the respondents are being helpful with great and positive advice, I don’t think that I could back-up and start over with this mold.
I am sorry that you are having this problem. I can understand your frustration. Rots a ruck.
Follow Me

[lightman]

I hope you can get your new mold to work for you. They have a great reputation and make a nice looking mold. All of my molds are steel, or iron, except for one aluminum one. So, I can't offer any helpful advice except to wish you Luck.

[Burnt Fingers]

247207

I did some casting yesterday. Brass IS a PITA. Yea, it will cast well after you scrub it was detergent, heat cycle it a half dozen times on an electric range top, then get the alloy super hot, throw about 100 duds...yea, you'll get keepers then. Even then that brass sticks bad to the bullet...worse than any mold I have ever had seasoned or brand new.

Just for comparison I got out two iron molds and an aluminum mold. Threw keepers with both iron molds after two or three throws. Threw that little Lee bullet on the first toss--which produced six.

It is interesting to note how different they look. The lee bullet has the look of frosting--too hot of alloy.

AFAIC brass it a totally inferior material for molds. If I get another hollopoint mold it will be a conversion of an iron mold. Brass isn't better than iron at anything; it does appear more durable than aluminum, at least the aluminum that Lee uses. I get scratches on the side of an aluminum mold after one session from rubbing against the pot support. This brass mold didn't get scratches, only slight abrasions. Iron doesn't suffer this issue at all. Iron doesn't rust if you take the time to wrap it in a two cent piece of VCI paper (https://www.amazon.com/Armor-Protective-Packaging-A30G0606-Non-Ferrous/dp/B00KF57W1K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=armour+wrap+vci+paper&qid=1566660194&s=gateway&sr=8-1) when you're done-that complaint can be disposed of.

I am very complimentary of the design and workmanship of Miha's mold.

Maybe it's Karma?

I can put one of my brass molds on the hot plate while the alloy melts in the pot. Once the alloy is melted I can pick the brass mold up and cast keepers from the start.

None of my brass molds are any stickier than my iron molds. My worst mold for stickiness is an aluminum mold from NOE.

[MT Chambers]

I collect scrap brass molds that don't cast well, MPs, Eagans, Accurates, mail them to me and I'll dispose of them, I'll even send you some Lee molds if that's YOUR PREFERENCE.