H&g #68

[John Van Gelder]

This bullet has been a long time favourite of mine for the .45ACP for the last 30 years. I was a bit disappointed when I could not get that bullet to function through my Ruger American .45.

I settled on using a different bullet, and about the time I thought I had all of my feeding issues fixed, it jammed up on me again, at that point I thought enough was enough and the Ruger went "down the road". I replaced it with a Remington RP45, right out of the box I could shoot it better than the American, the 15+1 seems more in line with a high capacity .45 and it flawlessly feeds the H&G 68.

I use the Lyman data for the 452630 bullet, closest to H&G68, the manual lists 913 fps with 7.5 gr. of Unique. With the H&G bullet over 7.5 gr, of Unique my average velocity out of the Remington is 1000fps, a good trail load.

The RP series Remingtons have gotten some bad "press", but this one work very well for me..

[David2011]

If you encounter that problem again you might take a look at the intersection of the ramp and the chamber. I've seen a lot of barrels where those two machined surfaces were not blended which leaves a sharp edge. The sharp "corner" will dig into the side of the brass causing a FTF. A few minutes with a Foredom and abrasive rubber points will make it into a trouble free transition. It's probably best to leave that to someone familiar with fitting 1911 barrels or doing reliability jobs. Different bullet profiles contact the top of the chamber in different places and that can make a sharp transition more or less of a stopping point. Even changing the COAL will affect the loading geometry and possibly the stoppages.

[Green Frog]

Years ago, there was an article in one of the NRA reloading guides that said in essence, if you have the Lyman 452460 for your 45, that’s the only bullet you’ll ever need. Seems like you’ve confirmed that again with its H&G equivalent. :Fire:

Froggie

[pworley1]

There is a good reason why the H&G 68 is a favorite of so many and has been copied so much.

[John Van Gelder]

David2011

Over the last 50 years that I have been shooting, reloading, and building 1911 platform guns, I have never had a 1911 that I could not get to work with that bullet. I guess that I was just not that invested in the American. The Remington is just a better fit for me, I works right out of the box.

[mdi]

I had the same problem with an earlier Ruger, a P90. Worked great with my Lyman 225 RN bullets, but would choke on a #68 clone about 25% of the time. Same bullet worked quite well in my 1911...

[John Van Gelder]

The #68 is just a good design for a number of reasons, a bit lighter than the standard bullet, you can push it a little faster for woods carry, without having to get into the +P range you can get pretty close to 10mm velocities.

[lightman]

I have shot a lot of 68's and its clones. Its by far my favorite. I'm glad that you found something that you like thats reliable.

[John Van Gelder]

Loading for auto loaders can be a bit of a chore when you deviate from the standard RN or TC forms. Another reason I favour the 68 is that it has a long nose and the body of the bullet is relatively short, so it does not take up as much of the case volume as some other bullets, allowing one to use slower burning powders for better velocity and lower pressures.

[trixter]

I just like the pretty holes it makes in the target. I even shoot the same design in my 9, and 380.

[Petrol & Powder]

I used the 45ACP in the 1911 platform for years and then got away from it before returning. During the first segment of that experience I was pretty much a user of 230 grain RN and some HP designs. I also was not casting my own bullets in those days.
Fast forward to my second segment of 1911 use and the 45ACP and I was casting. The equivalent of the H&G 68 was clearly THE bullet for a caster in the caliber and gun.

When you find something that works.........STOP LOOKING !

[megasupermagnum]

I've settled on the Arsenal molds version of the H&G #68, and shot a large number of the Lee version before it. I've tried various bullets when bench shooting to test accuracy. For reasons that always eluded me, the 230 grain RN FMJ almost always shoot poorly. This was across a number of 45 auto handguns. Long story short, best accuracy came from the H&G #68. The design feeds very well, and loaded to 1.25" they feed in any handgun I've tried them in. As a hunting bullet, I'm going with no. They don't expand, and they don't make big holes in anything. They are about on par with a FMJ round nose. Don't take my word for it, Paul Harrell shoots his meat target with some, results are underwhelming. There are a whole heap of bullets in 45 that will make big holes in animals without expanding. Look to the Lee 255 grain SWC or RNFP for that.

[gnostic]

You didn't say what was causing your pistol to jam. The OAL can do it, as can not having the taper crimp in spec. I like 5 grains of Bullseye better than Unique for the 200 grain SWC at 900+ FPS, as it's cleaner burning. In my next batch of HG#68 bullets, I'm loading with Titegroup, it's cheaper at $19 a pound and cleaner burning.

[tazman]

The H&G68 is a great boolit and shoots accurately in all my 45ACP pistols. The Lyman 452460 is the same weight and shoots better for me.
I don't see where the H&G68 is any better than anything else.

[brewer12345]

I started with the Lee version of this boolit and the initial run that I cast shot so well that I have pumped out a couple thousand more. I did cast some 230 grain round nose that are coated and sized, but since the SWCs shoot so well with 4.5 grains of bullseye I have yet to get around to fooling with the 230s. I suppose that at some point I will run out of the SWCs and turn to the 230 grain round noses, but that might be a while...

45 ACP is not something I can hunt big game with in my state and I usually pick something else to shoot small game, so this is all about accuracy and fun.

[pmer]

I recently started back up with a 1911 and a Saeco 069, 200 grain SWC too. I shaked n baked some and they run big over .456, sizing they end up at .453. They're doing good with the 5.0/Bullseye.

In addition to being such a good combo what helped me start loading for it again is that I have a good pistol brass catcher now and the front site is painted to help it stand out.

[Walks]

My Dad shot this bullet in competition from the early 1950's until the early 1970's. Cast of pure Linotype.
He believed that an auto loading pistol needed the hardest possible bullets, to overcome any lack of smoothness in the feed ramp/bbl.
I can get the Lyman #452488 stubby WC to feed in a GOOD 1911 over a light charge of Bullseye and an 11-12lb spring. But it won't stabilze to cut clean holes until it's about 40-45 ft from the muzzle.

I also shoot the RCBS #45-201-KT/SWC. It has a flat base which I prefer to a bevel base. It will even shoot in a Glock 21 when loaded to max charges.
And yep it does cut clean holes, even at 21 ft.

I couldn't afford H&G molds when I started my own set up in 1975. So I bought 2cav RCBS molds and used Lyman molds.

And I got a 1cav #452460. I use it when making new batches of alloy from alloys of unknown to check hardness.

I think if I was limited to one mold it would be an H&G 68 flat base or clone there of.

[lotech]

I've used the original #68 and the SAECO #69. The SAECO shoots at least as well as the #68. Feeding, of course, is great with either bullet. I have the Lyman #452460 and #452488. Both bullets are accurate, but neither will function as reliably in my 1911s as the #68 or #69. I use 5 grs. Bullseye with them all.

[John Van Gelder]

gnostic

I am not really sure what was at the root of the feeding malfunctions. I suspect that the bullet (Lee 200gr. RNFP) I was using at the time was the cause, I could shoot half a box of ammunition with no issues and then it would jam on the next shot. My 1911 guns will feed anything, including the RCBS 270SAA bullet, so far the Remington has flawlessly fed, the #68 and the other H&G bullet I have, the 240 gr. SWC designed for the Auto Rim.

I found the #68 mould with the handles in a box of used stuff in my favourite gun shop back in 1968, it cost me $5.00. At the time the only other mould I had for the .45 was the standard 225 gr. RN bullet. My .45 was a 1911 (not A1), an old WW1 gun, that had never been fired, had US Army stamped on the slide. It cost me $45.00 and came with a box of military surplus ammo. I started using the #68 and it made my lead go a bit further than the heavier bullet and it was a better choice for game. When I lived back East, I would load those bullets over 4 gr. of BE, they would not function the action, making brass easier to keep track of, that load accounted for a lot of small game for the table.

Over time I have taken deer and bear with that bullet in the .45 ACP, as well as rabbits, squirrels, grouse woodchucks, etc. so I do have some investment in that bullet.

[Burnt Fingers]

I like all the 200-210 gr SWC .45 boolits. I've got close to a dozen different molds. My favorite is the RCBS 201-KT.

Not all pistols will work with a SWC. The early Springfield XD 45 pistols were known for this. When the slide was coming back the rim of the fired case would fold the case mouth of the round in the magazine back. Not good for feeding and really hard on the precious .45 ACP brass.

[gnostic]

gnostic

I am not really sure what was at the root of the feeding malfunctions. I suspect that the bullet (Lee 200gr. RNFP) I was using at the time was the cause, I could shoot half a box of ammunition with no issues and then it would jam on the next shot. My 1911 guns will feed anything, including the RCBS 270SAA bullet, so far the Remington has flawlessly fed, the #68 and the other H&G bullet I have, the 240 gr. SWC designed for the Auto Rim.

I found the #68 mould with the handles in a box of used stuff in my favourite gun shop back in 1968, it cost me $5.00. At the time the only other mould I had for the .45 was the standard 225 gr. RN bullet. My .45 was a 1911 (not A1), an old WW1 gun, that had never been fired, had US Army stamped on the slide. It cost me $45.00 and came with a box of military surplus ammo. I started using the #68 and it made my lead go a bit further than the heavier bullet and it was a better choice for game. When I lived back East, I would load those bullets over 4 gr. of BE, they would not function the action, making brass easier to keep track of, that load accounted for a lot of small game for the table.

Over time I have taken deer and bear with that bullet in the .45 ACP, as well as rabbits, squirrels, grouse woodchucks, etc. so I do have some investment in that bullet.

You got it working, that's what matters. I've owned 1911's that I dumped a lot of money in, that gave me fits trying to get them to feed bullets like the 185 grain Lyman 352389 with an 11 lb. spring. And they kind of did the same thing, they were not reliable. In my case, the problem was my hold was inconsistent, i.e. limp wrist. Anyway, like Shakespeare said,'all's well that ends well.'

[John Van Gelder]

I have been a long time Ruger fan, I just never got on with the American .45.

Burnt Fingers

What you described with the Springfield is just was was happening with the American, I believe that the feed angle may have something to do with that. Shooting cast bullets in auto loaders is a bit of an art.

[DonH]

The H&G68 is a great boolit and shoots accurately in all my 45ACP pistols. The Lyman 452460 is the same weight and shoots better for me.
I don't see where the H&G68 is any better than anything else.

I started my shooting the 1911 pistol with 452460s from a 2- cavity Lyman mold. That bullet's long bearing surface probably makes it capable of better accuracy but it may be a moot point as in a good match grade 1911 few shooters are capable of outshooting the gun with either bullet. I graduated to the H&G 68 and would not give it up because of the 4-cavity H&G mold I cast them in. Quality and ease of casting with the Hensley and Gibbs mold is not hype.
A long-time favorite of bullseye shooters was the stubby Lyman 185 gr semiwadcutter or the similar H&G 130 but some shooters preferred the 452460 for 50 he slow fire.

[Burnt Fingers]

I have been a long time Ruger fan, I just never got on with the American .45.

Burnt Fingers

What you described with the Springfield is just was was happening with the American, I believe that the feed angle may have something to do with that. Shooting cast bullets in auto loaders is a bit of an art.

That's good to know. I've been eyeing a Ruger American. Now I can take it off my list.

[David2011]

David2011

Over the last 50 years that I have been shooting, reloading, and building 1911 platform guns, I have never had a 1911 that I could not get to work with that bullet. I guess that I was just not that invested in the American. The Remington is just a better fit for me, I works right out of the box.

Just relaying what I have encountered in building and modifying 1911s. It’s hard to know how much someone else knows about these things. Someone brought me a Remington for an action and trigger job a few years ago. I thought it was a very nice 1911, better than some well known makes that sell for considerably more.

[John Van Gelder]

Burnt Fingers

Over on the Ruger forum I belong to, there have been mixed results shooting SWC bullets in the American, some folks have gotten them to work, others not.

[WRideout]

Years ago, there was an article in one of the NRA reloading guides that said in essence, if you have the Lyman 452460 for your 45, that’s the only bullet you’ll ever need. Seems like you’ve confirmed that again with its H&G equivalent. :Fire:

Froggie

I acquired a 452460 single cavity mold in an estate sale, before I even had a gun for it. Later I bought, on a whim, a used STAR 45 ACP alloy frame, commander size. I have been very impressed with both of them. The STAR is extremely accurate with that boolit, at least out to combat range of 15 yards or so. I can turn the bullseye into a single ragged hole on a good day.
Wayne

[John Van Gelder]

I started out handgun hunting when I was 14, with a S&W "Kit" gun, the .22 on a 32 frame, that was 60+ years ago. I have also been a traditional bow hunter for just a little longer, one skill complements the other. Handgun hunting is a lot like bow hunting, you need to get close and place the shot. I developed a fondness for the 1911 back when I was in the service, I was a small arms instructor for a number of years. Back in those days I did not make a lot of money, and supplemented the families diet with what I hunted, lots of small game taken with my .45 and a cast bullet. When I acquired the #68 it was just the ticket for target/small game loads in the automatic.

In my reality my gun/bullet combination has to be suitable for putting meat on the table, if I could put a dollar value on the amount of protein I have "harvested" over time using that bullet, I am pretty sure it would buy me a new truck at today's prices.

I have lots of old moulds, they were new when I bought them, some look like Lyman moulds but have "Ideal" stamped on them, lots of stories there as well.

[Dutchman]

This week I've been casting a HG68 clone in this 6 cavity Lee group buy mold. Possibly the best casting mold I've
ever used. It drops excellent boolits very fast and keeps on putting them out. They drop at .454" and are sized .452 and lubed with White Label BAC (beeswax-allox-carnuba).

While I shoot a Colt Gov't these HG68 are destined for my S&W Brazilian 1937 2nd Model Hand Ejector. It loves HG68.

This is the as-cast pile. Hasn't been inspected or sorted yet. The other boolit is NOE 432421 for the Ruger Flattop .44 Special and S&W Model 29. The single cavity Lyman mold on the far right in the photo is 357446.

https://media.fotki.com/2v2EL1MwyxH3Es.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2EL1Mf5xH3Es.jpg

Dutch

[John Van Gelder]

Dutch

A good looking pile of bullets, Your Lee "HG68" is pretty close, it looks like the base band is a little wider than the top band, my old mould drops them with both bands the same width. That could be camera angle.. I also have a 357446, a good bullet for the old short cylinder "N" frame .357s.

[Petrol & Powder]

My H&G #68 clone is a SAECO #69 four cavity mold.
I don't think there are huge differences in the various clones of the H&G #68, it's a pretty straight forward design.
The differences seem to be things like bevel base vs. plain base and the contour of the nose.

The SAECO mold produces EXCELLENT bullets but frankly I think a lot of the H&G #68 clones are in the same camp.

[John Van Gelder]

I just went out and shot my Remington a bit more, I am definitely pleased that I have a high capacity, striker fired .45 that uses the #68 bullet.

[gnoahhh]

I recently started working with the RCBS clone of the H&G 68 and can't sing its praises enough. 4 grains Bullseye and the bullet seated/taper crimped with the case mouth dead even with the top of the upper band yields excellent accuracy and zero feeding malfunctions during the 1500 or so shots fired over the last month or so in either of my Colts- a Series-70 Gold Cup and a 1913-vintage 1911 Gov't Model.

[John Van Gelder]

gnoahhh

That is the same seating I use with my Remington. I also had a WW1 era 1911, it functioned just fine with that bullet.

[Burnt Fingers]

I recently started working with the RCBS clone of the H&G 68 and can't sing its praises enough. 4 grains Bullseye and the bullet seated/taper crimped with the case mouth dead even with the top of the upper band yields excellent accuracy and zero feeding malfunctions during the 1500 or so shots fired over the last month or so in either of my Colts- a Series-70 Gold Cup and a 1913-vintage 1911 Gov't Model.

The 201 or 201KT?

I have both and they are slightly different.

[gnoahhh]

The 201.

[Burnt Fingers]

The 201.


That's a good boolit. I just picked up another 201-KT so I can run two molds. It was far cheaper than having a custom mold made.